The south isles of Aran (County Galway)

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. St Mac Dara's oak statue destroyed by Archbishop O'Queely

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1645

   A renowned oak statue of St Mac Dara on the Aran Islands was venerated with idolatrous devotion by the people, who knelt before it and swore upon it. In 1645, Archbishop Malachy O'Queely of Tuam came to the islands, tore down the statue, and flung it into the sea.

   Read the passage

   Now, there was a blessed Saint, " Mac Dara," who lived in those islands long ages ago, and there was a renowned statue of him made of oak, which the people venerated with an idolatrous veneration. It was in vain that the Catholic clergy called on them to desist from kneeling before the graven image, and from swearing on it rather than on the Book of the Gospels, on which all men swore. Malachy O'Queely, Roman Catholic Archbishop of Tuam, was, however, resolved to put down an exhibition which he considered a scandal to the Catholic Church, and so, coming to the islands in 1645, he tore down the statue and flung it into the sea; but ill luck awaited him. In the same year he was sent by the Supreme Council of Kilkenny to accompany the confederate troops to Sligo, which had been lately taken by the Parliamentary forces. He did so, and the warrior archbishop rushed to the relief of the town,

   92 OAK — ASH.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

2. Farran-na-Cann, the field of skulls on Inishmore

   Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

   At the north extremity of Inishmore, near Port Murvey, islanders show a field called Farran-na-Cann, 'the field of the skulls,' where human bones are frequently dug up. Here the O'Briens are said to have slaughtered each other almost to extermination in some remote period.

   Read the passage

   Queen Elizabeth heard the appeal, but her Majesty was inexorable. It is more than probable that the O'Briens had caused, at least remotely, the alienation of their inheritance by their own domestic feuds. At the north extremity of Inishmore, the large island, not far from Port Murvey, the islanders show a field where human bones are frequently dug up, and for which reason it is called Farran-na-Cann, "the field of the sculls." Here the O'Briens are said at some remote period to have slaughtered each other almost to extermination. This sort of self-destruction is the blackest blot on the page of Irish history. It has always been, and alas ! is Ireland's sad and unalienable inheritance. Of the patentee, John Rawson, little is remembered, save that in an instrument enrolled in the Rolls Office, in 1594, he is called "an industrious discoverer of lands for the Queen." The O' Flaherties had now the gratification of seeing the O'Briens, also an Irish sept, turned out of their inheritance, and the same granted to a stranger. After this period the property and inheritance of the islands became and

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 19

3. O'Brazil phantom island legend from Aran cliffs

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

   The people of Aran speak of a phantom island called O'Brazil, the Isle of the Blest, which rises after sunset from the Atlantic and bears a city like the New Jerusalem needing no sun or lamp. The mirage has repeatedly appeared far away on the Atlantic when viewed from the lofty cliffs of the Aran islands.

   Read the passage

   the people call "O'Brazil, the Isle of the Blest," upon which a city like the New Jerusalem is built, and the old men say that that city hath no need of the sun nor of the moon to shine in it, neither does it need the light of the lamp any more at all. That island with that city has, they say, over and over again appeared far away on the Atlantic. Alison, we remember, somewhere in his charming account of the French in Egypt, gives a note on the mirage of the desert, where the parched-up soldiers of the French republic, in 1798, used to see far-distant lakes into which tumbled the waters of mighty waterfalls. On, on the French soldiers rushed. Alas ! the phantom vanished ; and so vanishes the phantom city seen on a summer evening from the lofty cliffs of the Aran islands. To follow in search of this " Isle of the Blest " an Aranite peasant once resolved. He had heard of St. Brendan and of Christopher Columbus, and of those mariners who, sailing over the seas in search of fame and of gold, were fortunate enough to find both. The peasant, in spite of all persuasion, set sail. The phantom receded; he followed. Still following, he never returned to Aran again, and his mournful fate is thus sung by Gerald Griffin : —

   i.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 29

4. 1745 whale stranding in Aran waters

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1745

   On 1 August 1745 a great whale appeared in Aran waters and was stranded and harpooned by the defendant, yielding fifty gallons of oil plus blubber and whalebone destined for the Dublin market. A legal dispute arose over who held the royal franchise rights to such wrecks.

   Read the passage

   plaintiff; Mr. John Bodkin and Mr. Morgan for the defendant The case as stated by the learned counsel for the plaintiff was that from times of remote antiquity the O'Briens were lords of the isles of Aran, or to use somewhat of legal phraseology, were lords of the manor of Aran, and as such, and in their manorial rights they were entitled to all the royal franchises, wrecks, and other strays washed on the shores either of the islands or mainlands of the bay. But the Crown had made a grant of the royal franchises away from the lords of the manor, and had conferred the same on the Admiral of the Bay of Galway, the office of Admiral of the Bay belonging to and being held by the mayor of the town. Now, on the ist of August, 1 745, a great whale, which appeared in the Aran waters, was stranded, and harpooned by the defendant, who obtained from it no less than fifty gallons of oil The blubber and the whalebone were all there ready to be transported to the Dublin market, and the defendant had actually converted to his own use so much of this royal franchise as would realize a sum of ^160. Plaintiffs patent was full, ample, and large ; so full, so ample, and so large, that he, counsel, could not but wonder that any lawyer at the bar would sign the pleadings in a case in which a verdict must be directed on the spot for the plaintiff.

   Counsel for the defendant did not feel so sure of the success of his learned friend's case as his learned

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 23

5. Aran peasant who sailed in search of O'Brazil and perished

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

   An Aran peasant, inspired by tales of St. Brendan and Columbus, set sail westward in search of the phantom Isle of the Blest despite all persuasion to return. The phantom island receded before him and he never returned to Aran, a fate immortalised in Gerald Griffin's poem about O'Brazil.

   Read the passage

   the people call "O'Brazil, the Isle of the Blest," upon which a city like the New Jerusalem is built, and the old men say that that city hath no need of the sun nor of the moon to shine in it, neither does it need the light of the lamp any more at all. That island with that city has, they say, over and over again appeared far away on the Atlantic. Alison, we remember, somewhere in his charming account of the French in Egypt, gives a note on the mirage of the desert, where the parched-up soldiers of the French republic, in 1798, used to see far-distant lakes into which tumbled the waters of mighty waterfalls. On, on the French soldiers rushed. Alas ! the phantom vanished ; and so vanishes the phantom city seen on a summer evening from the lofty cliffs of the Aran islands. To follow in search of this " Isle of the Blest " an Aranite peasant once resolved. He had heard of St. Brendan and of Christopher Columbus, and of those mariners who, sailing over the seas in search of fame and of gold, were fortunate enough to find both. The peasant, in spite of all persuasion, set sail. The phantom receded; he followed. Still following, he never returned to Aran again, and his mournful fate is thus sung by Gerald Griffin : —

   i.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 29

6. Aran islanders' kindness during Dr. Porter's typhus fever

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

   Frank Thorpe Porter visited his son, Dr. Frank Porter, medical officer of the Aran islands, during an outbreak of malignant typhus fever. The islanders left food and drink on the window-stool for the stricken doctor and refused all payment, showing deep sympathy while fearing contagion.

   Read the passage

   apartment, to take out the sashes of the window, and render it the sole means of external communication. The medical attendant, priests, and nurse tenders had no other means of ingress and egress, and no objection appears to have ever been made to the system. Doctor Porter was stricken down by the disease, and although ten days had elapsed before a medical gentleman arrived from Galway, the doctor surmounted the fearful malady. " I spent," writes Mr. Porter, " each night in my son's apartment, and during the day he was attended by a nurse. Almost every night I heard some gentle taps outside the vacant window, and on going over to it, I would be told ' My wife is afther making a pitcher of whey for the poor docthor, you'll find it on the windy-stool ; ' or ' I brought you two jugs of milk to make whey for your son.' When the crisis had passed, and nutriment and stimulants were required, I would be told, ' We biled down two chickens into broth for the docthor, I hope it will sarve him.' Rabbits, chickens, and joints of kid were tendered for his use, and a bottle of 'rale Connemara Puttyeen,' was deposited on the window-stool. The people were all kind and anxious, and when he became able to walk out he was constantly saluted and congratulated ; but no person would approach him if they could avoid it They were all dreadfully apprehensive that he might impart the dreadful contagion. I brought him home as soon as

   5 8 THEIR HOSPITALITY.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 26

7. Fairy flax of Aran and the endless spinning tale

   Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

   Fairy flax of Aran can be spun year-round with little yield unless the fairies take the spinner under their protection. A story is told of a poor man's beautiful daughter visited by a hideous dwarf who gave her an endless distaff of flax, which brought her great wealth until her curiosity led her to spin it to the end.

   Read the passage

   The. Fairy Flax of Aran we have frequently spoken of in the preceding pages, and that flax may be spun from year's end to year's end, and little realized thereby, unless, indeed, " the good people," as the fairies are called,* take the spinner under their protection. Now, there was once a man in humble circumstances, who had an only daughter, the most beautiful creature that ever was seen. She spent much of her time spinning, but to no purpose. At length a hideous dwarf, lame and blind of an eye, came to her one day as she was spinning, and presented her with a distaff full of flax, upon which, he said, there was enough for her whole life, if she lived a hundred years, provided she did not spin it quite off. On she went spinning, but never spinning to the end, and her loom produced the choicest of stuffs, for which

   * Numbers of books treat of the superstitious belief in fairies. The Irish fancy that they are the " fallen angels " mentioned in Jude 6, and that on the day of judgment they will be released from their hapless condition (2 Peter ii. 4). The belief in fairies is universal in Mahomedan countries. — Vide " Lalla-Rookh," " Paradise and the Peri."

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

8. Galway Corporation paid wine tribute to O'Brien lords for pirate clearance

   Galway · city · Galway

   The Corporation of Galway annually paid twelve tuns of wine to the O'Brien lord of the Aran isles, in exchange for keeping the seas clear of Algerine pirates. This arrangement was formalised by treaty indenture, and the O'Briens were known to massacre foes and convert enemy ships to their own use.

   Read the passage

   or with the parliamentary institutions of the Normans, where the members then, as now, had the liberty of speaking, sometimes very plainly, their minds — as, indeed, the Norman name of our legislative assembly imports : Parler-les-mens, a place for "speaking their minds." That the Corporation of Galway recognized the power of the O'Briens, lords of the isles, is plainly told in the foregoing pages, where we remember that twelve tuns of wine were annually paid to the lord for sweeping the sea, as it were with a broom, clean of the Algerine pirates that then infested the high seas ; and there can be little if any doubt that the O'Briens were ready, from time to time and at all times, to massacre the foe wherever they met him, and to convert his ships to their own use and behoof in manner and form as by their indenture of treaty was provided. It is not for us to criticize with critical pen the policy of the respected lord of the isles, who, in 1560, was swallowed up in the deep, near the Great Man's Bay, when he was returning from Thomond loaded with the booty which, at the point of the sword, he had won from the subjects of his cousin O'Brien of Thomond ; for it does not appear that ties of blood preserved his Majesty of Thomond from the vengeance of his lordship the lord of the isles, or, mutatis mutandis, the lord of the isles from the vengeance of his Majesty. " An eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth," was their maxim, and it may have been good law where the antagonists had each two eyes and two teeth ; but the vengeance was dreadful when the punished party had only one eye and one tooth. He was then blinded and untoothed out and out ; and frequently such dreadful vengeance did await the conquered. Let us not, however, be too hard on the conquerors when we remember that David sawed his prisoners in two, and drove harrows over them in a harrowed

   OBRIENS LORDS INCHIQUIN. IO/

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42

   As the companion tells it

   Coming through Galway now. The Corporation of Galway recognised the power of the O'Briens, lords of the isles, by paying twelve tuns of wine annually to the lord for sweeping the sea, as it were with a broom, clean of the Algerine pirates that infested the high seas. There can be little doubt the O'Briens were ready to massacre the foe wherever they met him, and to convert his ships to their own use, as their indenture of treaty provided. In 1560 the lord of the isles was swallowed up in the deep, near the Great Man's Bay, returning from Thomond loaded with booty he had won at the point of the sword from the subjects of his cousin O'Brien of Thomond. Ties of blood did not preserve his Majesty of Thomond from the vengeance of the lord of the isles, nor the lord of the isles from the vengeance of his Majesty. Their maxim was an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. It may have been good law where the antagonists had each two eyes and two teeth, but the vengeance was dreadful when the punished party had only one eye and one tooth. He was then blinded and untoothed out and out, and frequently such dreadful vengeance did await the conquered.

9. O'Flaherties expel O'Briens from Aran

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1586–1587

   In 1586, the O'Briens, long lords of the islands of Aran, were expelled from their territory by the ferocious O'Flaherties of Iar Connaught. A commission under the great seal found that the islands belonged not to either sept but to Queen Elizabeth, who granted them to Sir John Rawson on condition he keep twenty English soldiers there.

   Read the passage

   A.D. 1586. In this year the O'Briens, long the lords of the islands of Aran, "wereexpulsed from their territory by ye ferocious O'Flaherties of larConnaught." The matter was brought under the knowledge of the Crown, who resolved to put an end to the lawless savagery which existed in those parts, whereby one sept could, in times of peace, sail on a plundering expedition against another and expel them, wasting the country with fire and sword all the time ; and accordingly a commission, under the great seal, was issued for the purpose of examining the title, if any, of the O'Flaherties to the islands. Having gone through the mockery of an inquisition, the commissioners found that the islands belonged not to the O'Briens, lords of the isles, nor yet to the O'Flaherties, who had no title at all, but that they belonged to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth in right of her crown and dignity ; and accordingly she, by her letters patent dated January i5th, A.D. 1587, instead

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 18

10. Aran islander weatherbound sixteen days in Galway

    Galway · city · Galway

    O'Donel shipped cattle and pigs by mail boat to Galway, paying 2s. 6d. for calves and 1s. per pig. After the February fair-day he was weatherbound in Galway for sixteen days, underscoring the isolation of Aran islanders.

    Read the passage

    In answer to Mr. Concannon : We claim to be entitled to take the seaweed for manure. We have no turf, nor timber to burn, and have to pay ^£3 a year for two boat loads of turf. The stock on his farm was a cow and a veal calf, a horse, five sheep, and eight lambs. Shears them every year, but the wool he never sells as he keeps it for his family. As for tillage, he had about eighty stone of potatoes last year, and by his stock he realized £12; that includes £6 "js. 6d. that he received for a couple of veal calves. He had no grain crops. He had a couple of pigs too. As for his stock, maybe it's little he'd have out of them coming home to his wife and childher, and his was a nice wife, thanks be to God. His sheep he brings by boat to the county of Clare, sells them at the fair of Ennistymon. Has to pay freight 3^. a head for sheep and lambs. His cattle and pigs he puts on the mail boat and sails them to Galway — the freight being 2s. 6d. for calves, and a shilling a head for pigs. And wasn't he sixteen days weatherbound in Galway last February, after the fair-day ?

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Galway now. For an Aran islander, this city was the mainland link, and sometimes a trap. One islander shipped his cattle and pigs here by mail boat, paying 2 shillings and sixpence for calves and a shilling a head for pigs. After the February fair-day he was weatherbound in Galway for 16 days, unable to get home. The Aran islanders had no turf or timber to burn, and had to pay £3 a year for two boat loads of turf. They kept the wool from their sheep for the family rather than selling it. Sixteen days stuck here in February, waiting for the weather to break, tells you something about the isolation those islanders lived with.

11. Baltimore fisheries transformed by Baroness Burdett-Coutts

    Baltimore · town · Cork · 1885–1886

    Baltimore fishermen in the south of Ireland had previously used mere curraghs worth about £6 each. Baroness Burdett-Coutts funded deep sea fishing boats costing £600 each, lent on easy repayment terms, which in 1885 resulted in 41,610 boxes of fish caught by previously unemployed fishermen, realizing £34,585.

    Read the passage

    The poverty of the Aran fishermen was equalled until lately by that of the Baltimore fishermen in the south of Ireland. Their altered state of circumstances appears by a report of the inspectors of Irish fisheries on the sea fisheries of Ireland, presented to his Excellency the Lord Lieutenant in the autumn of 1886. The Baltimore fishing boats had been mere curraghs worth about £6 each. Owing to the liberality of Baroness Burdett-Coutts,. of imperishable fame, a number of deep sea fishing boats were built at a cost of ^600 each, which was lent to the Baltimore men on easy rates of repayment. The report states that at Baltimore, in the year 1885, there were 41,610 boxes of fish caught by fishermen previously unemployed, and these boxes of fish realized a sum of ^34,585. Mostly every tradesman in the town was employed; the carpenters in making boxes, the smiths in strapping them round with hoop iron. "Three vessels arrived in Baltimore loaded with ice, and eight hulks were used for storing it, two at a cost of ^20 a month, the others were owned by a

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Baltimore, the fisheries were transformed by Baroness Burdett-Coutts. Until lately, the Baltimore fishermen had been as poor as the Aran fishermen. Their boats had been mere curraghs, worth about £6 each. A report by the inspectors of Irish fisheries, presented to the Lord Lieutenant in the autumn of 1886, records what changed. Baroness Burdett-Coutts had a number of deep sea fishing boats built, each costing £600, and lent them to the Baltimore men on easy rates of repayment. In 1885, 41,610 boxes of fish were caught by men who had previously been unemployed, and these realized £34,585. Mostly every tradesman in the town was employed: carpenters made boxes, and smiths strapped them round with hoop iron. Three vessels arrived in Baltimore loaded with ice, and eight hulks were used for storing it. Two of the ice hulks were rented at a cost of £20 a month, and the others were owned by a... [the record cuts off there]. The liberality of the Baroness is described as being of imperishable fame.

12. Fort of Ardkyn fortified and surrendered in 1651

    near Dun Aengus · street · Galway · 1650–1651

    In 1651, the Marquis of Clanricarde fortified the islands with 200 musketeers under Sir Robert Lynch. The fort of Ardkyn in the large island was repaired and furnished with cannon, holding out nearly a year after Galway's surrender before the islands fell to Parliamentary forces.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1651. When the royal authority was fast declining, the Marquis of Clanricarde resolved to fortify these islands, wherein he placed 200 musketeers with officers and a gunner, under the command of Sir Robert Lynch, owner of the islands. The fort of Ardkyn, in the large island, was soon after repaired and furnished with cannon, and by this means held out against the Parliamentary forces near a year after the surrender of Galway. In December, 1650, the Irish, routed in every other quarter, landed here 700 men. On the Qth of the following January, 1300 foot, with a battering piece, were shipped from the Bay of Galway to attack them, and 600 men were marched to lar Connaught, to be thence sent, if necessary, to the assistance of the assailants. On the i5th the islands surrendered on the following terms : —

    * Clanricarde Memoirs, p. 71.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Dun Aengus stood the fort of Ardkyn, on the large island. In 1651, as royal authority was failing, the Marquis of Clanricarde fortified the Aran Islands, placing 200 musketeers with officers and a gunner under Sir Robert Lynch, who owned the islands. The fort was repaired and furnished with cannon, and it held out against Parliamentary forces for near a year after the surrender of Galway. In December 1650, the Irish, routed everywhere else, landed 700 men here. On the 9th of January, 1300 foot with a battering piece were shipped from the Bay of Galway to attack them, and 600 men were marched to Iar Connaught in case they were needed. On the 15th the islands surrendered.

13. Saturday spinning prohibition in Aran

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    Old crones in Aran say the spinning-wheel should never spin on Saturday, a custom the author speculates may derive from Israelitish descent. A tale is told of two indefatigable spinners, one of whom died and appeared to the other on a Saturday night showing her burning hand as punishment for spinning on the forbidden day.

    Read the passage

    The spinning-wheel in Aran, the old crones say, should never spin on Saturday. Whence this keeping holy the Saturday I know not ; but it does look as if they who kept the Saturday holy, were of Israelitish descent — were, perhaps, of the lost tribes carried into Nineveh at the time of the Captivity by Salamanassar, 730 B.C. 1* Now, there were two old women indefatigable spinners, whose wheels never stood still, though they were by the wise men warned not to spin on Saturdays. At length one of them died, and on the Saturday night following she appeared to the other, who was as usual busy at the wheel, and showed her her burning hand, saying —

    "See what in hell at last I've won, Because on Saturdays I've spun."

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

14. Aran island sheep sold at Ennistymon fair, County Clare

    near Ennistimon · town · Clare

    O'Donel brought his sheep and lambs by boat from Aran to the fair of Ennistymon in County Clare, paying freight of 3d. per head. This was a regular practice for Aran islanders selling livestock.

    Read the passage

    In answer to Mr. Concannon : We claim to be entitled to take the seaweed for manure. We have no turf, nor timber to burn, and have to pay ^£3 a year for two boat loads of turf. The stock on his farm was a cow and a veal calf, a horse, five sheep, and eight lambs. Shears them every year, but the wool he never sells as he keeps it for his family. As for tillage, he had about eighty stone of potatoes last year, and by his stock he realized £12; that includes £6 "js. 6d. that he received for a couple of veal calves. He had no grain crops. He had a couple of pigs too. As for his stock, maybe it's little he'd have out of them coming home to his wife and childher, and his was a nice wife, thanks be to God. His sheep he brings by boat to the county of Clare, sells them at the fair of Ennistymon. Has to pay freight 3^. a head for sheep and lambs. His cattle and pigs he puts on the mail boat and sails them to Galway — the freight being 2s. 6d. for calves, and a shilling a head for pigs. And wasn't he sixteen days weatherbound in Galway last February, after the fair-day ?

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 31

15. Archbishop Phillips' fatal visit to Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1786

    In 1786, the Catholic Archbishop of Tuam, Philip Phillips, stayed a week in the Aran Islands as a guest of the parish priest. Unaccustomed to sleeping on a bed of rushes, he contracted bronchitis and died shortly afterwards. Phillips had formerly been a soldier in the Austrian service and Bishop of Killala.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1786. The Catholic archbishop of Tuam, the most Rev. Philip Phillips, D.D., partaking of the hospitality of the parish priest of Aran, stopped a week in the islands : sleeping, however, on a bed of rushes, to which he had been unused, he got an attack of bronchitis, of which he shortly after died at Cloonmore, in the county of Mayo. One would have thought that he could have outlived a discomfort of that trivial kind, for he had been in early life a soldier — not a feather-bed soldier, but a distinguished officer in the Austrian service, and therefore it was that he was called Captain Phillips to the last hour of his life. It is not unworthy of remark that this prelate had, previous to his translation to Tuam, been Bishop of Killala, to which see he had in 1760 [i Geo. III.] been by James III., King de jure sed non de facto of great Britain and Ireland, nominated as appears by the apostolic letter of Clement XIII., dated Rome, November 24, 1760.

    In the peerage we find that the earldom of Aran has been twice bestowed on families bearing different names. First in 1662, when Richard Butler (son of James, the twelfth Earl and first Duke of Ormonde) was created Earl of Aran. The honours of this nobleman having expired on his death without issue, the earldom was revived in 1693 in favour of Lord

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 24

16. Archbishop Phillips dies at Cloonmore

    Cloonmore · townland · Mayo · 1786

    After falling ill during his stay in the Aran Islands, Archbishop Philip Phillips died at Cloonmore in County Mayo. He had contracted bronchitis from sleeping on a rush bed, a hardship unusual for a former officer in the Austrian service.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1786. The Catholic archbishop of Tuam, the most Rev. Philip Phillips, D.D., partaking of the hospitality of the parish priest of Aran, stopped a week in the islands : sleeping, however, on a bed of rushes, to which he had been unused, he got an attack of bronchitis, of which he shortly after died at Cloonmore, in the county of Mayo. One would have thought that he could have outlived a discomfort of that trivial kind, for he had been in early life a soldier — not a feather-bed soldier, but a distinguished officer in the Austrian service, and therefore it was that he was called Captain Phillips to the last hour of his life. It is not unworthy of remark that this prelate had, previous to his translation to Tuam, been Bishop of Killala, to which see he had in 1760 [i Geo. III.] been by James III., King de jure sed non de facto of great Britain and Ireland, nominated as appears by the apostolic letter of Clement XIII., dated Rome, November 24, 1760.

    In the peerage we find that the earldom of Aran has been twice bestowed on families bearing different names. First in 1662, when Richard Butler (son of James, the twelfth Earl and first Duke of Ormonde) was created Earl of Aran. The honours of this nobleman having expired on his death without issue, the earldom was revived in 1693 in favour of Lord

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 24

17. Dún Aonghasa fortress on Inishmore

    near Dun Aengus · street · Galway · 1–100

    Dún Aonghasa is a horse-shoe shaped fortress on a high cliff on Inishmore, built by the pagan Firbolgs in the first century. It has three concentric enclosures with mortarless walls, an outer area studded with pointed stones as a chevaux-de-frise, and a narrow entrance admitting only one or two at a time.

    Read the passage

    The immense fortresses on the islands are said to be the finest specimens of barbaric military structures extant in Europe. Built by the pagan Firbolgs in the first century of the Christian era, these mortarless walls, Cyclopean as they are called, having braved the tempests of nineteen hundred years, still stand. On the large island, and within four miles of our hotel, is Dun ^Engus, which, covering many acres, is on a precipice hundreds of feet in height. This fortress, in the form of a horse-shoe, is unapproachable on the sea side, where the Atlantic surges heavily against the solid rock, whose surfaces are seamed, and scarred, and torn by the violence of the billows driven against them by the winter tempests. Unapproachable by an enemy from the sea, it is equally unapproachable by an enemy from the land, the only entrance thereto being by a narrow avenue skirting the edge of the cliff. The fortress consists of three enclosures, the inner, the middle, and the outer. The inner measures 160 feet, on what may be called the axis major from north to south of the horse-shoe on the ground plan, whilst along the cliff it measures 144 feet The mortarless wall which surrounds this inmost enclosure is about noo feet from end to end, by 1 8 feet in height, and 12 feet in thickness. Now this one wall is made up of three walls, each four feet thick, one against the other, like the coats of an onion, which arrangement occurs in the middle and

    DUN ^NGUS. 17

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

    As the companion tells it

    Near here, somewhere about Dun Aengus, stands Dún Aonghasa, a horse-shoe shaped fortress on a high cliff on Inishmore, built by the pagan Firbolgs in the first century. It sits on a precipice hundreds of feet high, unapproachable from the sea where the Atlantic surges against solid rock, and equally unapproachable from the land, the only entrance being a narrow avenue skirting the edge of the cliff. The fortress has three concentric enclosures surrounded by mortarless walls that have braved the tempests of nineteen hundred years and still stand. The inner enclosure measures 160 feet along its main axis and 144 feet along the cliff, with a wall 18 feet high and 12 feet thick, made up of three walls each four feet thick, layered one against the other like the coats of an onion. An outer area is studded with pointed stones as a chevaux-de-frise, and the narrow entrance admits only one or two at a time. These are called the finest specimens of barbaric military structures extant in Europe.

18. Fatal puffin-hunting accident on Aran cliffs, 1816

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1816

    Cragsmen on Aran descended the cliffs by rope at night to capture puffins on rocky ledges, earning ten or twelve shillings per night. In the summer of 1816, two men missed their footing and were dashed to pieces on the rocks below.

    Read the passage

    popular belief being that they spring from the driftwood* Their flesh supplies a rich lamp oil, and their feathers fetch a high price in the London markets. The capture ef these birds is a dangerous occupation for the cragsmen, who descend from the cliffs by means of a rope to the haunts of the puffin, and having spent the night in the dangerous occupation, ensnaring and killing them as they sleep on the rocky ledges, they are hauled up in the morning, having realized ten or twelve shillings during the night. In the summer of 1816, two unfortunate fellows engaged in this frightful occupation missed their footing, and falling, were dashed to pieces on the rocks below. The solitary bittern, called in Irish the Boonaun-Laynagh, frequents the low-lying ground on the Galway side of the island, and hares and rabbits are very plentiful also. On the barren sheets of rocks the peasants (denominated lazy and idle, by lazy and idle writers and speakers) have with tireless toil walled in and made numberless gardens in which potatoes mealy and dry are grown. The meteorological aspirations of the Aran peasant are for rain, diametrically the opposite of what their brethren on the mainland desire. A dry summer gives to Aran a parched and burnt-up hue, when the cattle faint and die if not removed to the mainland. Tanks, such as they have in Ceylon, are sadly wanting * Denis Florence McCarthy's Poems, p. 87 note.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 5

19. Galway corporation petitions Queen for Murrough O'Brien

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1588

    When the O'Briens were dispossessed, the corporation of Galway petitioned Queen Elizabeth in 1588 in favour of Murrough McTurlogh O'Brien, asserting that the Mac Tiege O'Briens had been temporal captains or lords of the islands of Aran since time out of memory. The Queen remained inexorable.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1588. When the return of the inquisition and subsequent patent granting the lands away from the O'Briens became known, the corporation of Galway thus petitioned the Queen, in favour of Murrough McTurlogh O'Brien : " That the Mac Tieges of Aran, his ancestors, were under her Majesty and her predecessors the temporal captains or lords of the islands of Aran, and held their territories and hereditaments elsewhere under the name of Mac Tiege O'Brien of Aran, time out of man's memory, and that they the said corporation, had seen the said Murrogh McTurlogh authorized by all his sept, as chief of that name, and in possession of the premises as his own lawful inheritance, as more at large doth appear in our books of record, wherein he continued until of late he was, by the usurping power of the O'Flaherties expelled ; and we say, moreover, that the sept of the Mac Tiege O'Briens of Aran, since the foundation of this city, were aiding and assisting ourselves and our predecessors against the enemies of your majesty and your predecessors in all times and places, whereunto they were called as true and faithful • I'at. Rolls, 31 Eliz.

    40 AN INDUSTRIOUS DISCOVERER.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 19

20. Hawthorn and blackthorn grow on Aran Islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    Hawthorn and blackthorn grow freely in the Aran Islands. A folk belief held that the two shrubs never grow naturally near each other due to a controversy over which supplied the crown of thorns at the Crucifixion.

    Read the passage

    The Hawthorn and Blackthorn grow freely in the islands. Need it be told that the antipathy between these shrubs is so great that the one is never found to be growing naturally near the other? Of course, if planted together, they will struggle on for a time ; but one or other generally sickens and dies ; for there is a controversy between them as to which had the misfortune to supply the crown of thorns to Christ on the night of the Passion. The peasantry in England, Scotland, and France believe it was the hawthorn, and they look on it as an outrage to bring in flowering hawthorn in May to their houses, it being unlucky and accursed ever since that dreadful night preceding the Crucifixion. So also the blackthorn in Austria and the south of Europe is considered unlucky ; as it is there insisted on that it supplied the thorns, wherefore

    THE ROSE — SILENCE. 97

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

21. O'Flaherties dispossessed O'Briens; Elizabeth confiscated Aran, 1588

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1588

    The O'Flaherties, an equally warlike race, dispossessed the O'Brien lords of the Aran isles. In 1588, the year of the Spanish Armada, Queen Elizabeth finally confiscated the O'Brien territories on Aran, and the name of O'Brien became forgotten on the islands.

    Read the passage

    field.* The O'Flaherties, an equally warlike race, dispossessed the lords of the isles, and in 1588, the very year of the Spanish Armada, Queen Elizabeth finally confiscated their territories, and now the name of O'Brien is forgotten in Aran. Not so on the mainland ; the O'Briens are still in Thomond and elsewhere, as, it is to be hoped, they will be for centuries yet to come. The lords of the Isles of Aran are extinct. The last of the male line was John O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties, whose daughter Sarah was married to Stephen Roche, from whom is descended the present Thomas Redington Roche, of Ryehill, Esq., J.P., Co. Galway. Amongst the families 01 this house still existing in Thomond, are the noble house of Inchiquin and the O'Briens of Ballynalacken, both of whom trace up, in an unbroken succession, to Bryan Boroimhe, who, like Leonidas at Thermopylae, fell fighting the foreign foe for the liberties of his country.

    The title of Inchiquin dates from the year 1543, but no title was required to ennoble those who were of the blood of kings, and were " nobler than the royalty that first ennobled them." The untitled aristocracy in England are often superior to the titled aristocracy, who cannot trace back farther than the Wars of the Roses. Now, the last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry VIII., who in return, by patent A.D. 1543, bestowed upon Murrough O'Brien, and upon the heirs male of his body, the title of Baron of Inchiquin. This Murrough had two sons, the elder Dermot, and the younger Donough, and Dermot on his father's death became Baron of Inchiquin ; and so the title descended from father to son until the year 1855, when James, the twelfth baron, who was also seventh Earl of Inchiquin (creation A.D. 1654) and third Marquis of Thomond (A.D. 1800), died without issue

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42

22. Aran tenant O'Donel's farm testimony at Land Commission

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886

    Michael O'Donel, a tenant for fifty years on the Aran islands, described his 22-acre holding (five acres bare rock) at £3 18s. 6d. annual rent. He kept a cow, horse, five sheep, and pigs, and had no turf or timber, paying £3 yearly for two boatloads of turf.

    Read the passage

    Since my father's death, about eight years ago last Pathrickmuss, — that's the time I'm the rale tenant. My father and his father were tenants on that holding since the Deluge at all events — couldn't swear longer than that.

    Do you swear that ?

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 31

23. Archbishop O'Queely killed at Sligo after statue destruction

    Sligo · town · Sligo · 1645

    The same year he destroyed Mac Dara's statue, O'Queely was sent to accompany Confederate troops to Sligo to relieve the town from Parliamentary forces. The Irish were routed and the archbishop's body was literally cut to pieces, with a treaty found upon him.

    Read the passage

    Now, there was a blessed Saint, " Mac Dara," who lived in those islands long ages ago, and there was a renowned statue of him made of oak, which the people venerated with an idolatrous veneration. It was in vain that the Catholic clergy called on them to desist from kneeling before the graven image, and from swearing on it rather than on the Book of the Gospels, on which all men swore. Malachy O'Queely, Roman Catholic Archbishop of Tuam, was, however, resolved to put down an exhibition which he considered a scandal to the Catholic Church, and so, coming to the islands in 1645, he tore down the statue and flung it into the sea; but ill luck awaited him. In the same year he was sent by the Supreme Council of Kilkenny to accompany the confederate troops to Sligo, which had been lately taken by the Parliamentary forces. He did so, and the warrior archbishop rushed to the relief of the town,

    92 OAK — ASH.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Sligo, you are near the place where Archbishop Malachy O'Queely met his end in 1645. He was the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Tuam, and earlier that same year he had torn down a venerable oak statue of Saint Mac Dara on the Aran islands and flung it into the sea, considering the people's idolatrous veneration of it a scandal to the Catholic Church. Ill luck followed him. The Supreme Council of Kilkenny sent him to accompany Confederate troops to relieve Sligo, which had lately been taken by Parliamentary forces. The warrior archbishop rushed to the relief of the town, but the Irish were routed. His body was cut to pieces, and a treaty was found upon him.

24. Demolition of Ardkyn Castle and clergy transportation

    Innismore · street · Dublin · 1653

    In 1653, the Lord Protector ordered the castle of Ardkyn to be pulled down and a strong fort erected in its place. Aran then became a holding location for Catholic clergy before their transportation to the West Indies.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1653. The castle of Ardkyn was by order of the Lord Protector pulled down, and a strong fort erected in its place. Thenceforth Aran became the place of transportation for the Catholic clergy, whilst on the mainland the most violent acts of oppression and injustice openly took place. The King's arms and every other emblem of royalty were torn down, and fifty priests were shipped for Aran * until they could * Froude's English in Ireland, vol. i.f p. 134.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 21

25. Shipwreck of Teige O'Brien at Great Man's Bay

    Innismore · street · Dublin · 1560

    In 1560, Teige O'Brien, lord of the isles, perished in a storm while returning to Aran from a plundering expedition in Munster. The spot where his vessel was lost, at the entrance of Great Man's Bay, was still shown at the time of writing.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1560. A tragic occurrence occurred in this year when Teige O'Brien, lord of the isles, was returning, loaded with booty if not with honours, to Aran, from a plundering expedition which he had made into Munster; from one of the seaports of which province he had the rashness with his homeward bound barque to put to sea when a tempest was said by his sailors to be impending. Deceived by the " calm before the storm " he insisted on weighing anchor. It was weighed, and as the starless night was closing and deepening around him, the gale freshened as he advanced — his tempest-tossed vessel struggled amidst the waves, for the wind was high against it — and when the morning rolled the clouds away, a broken spar, an oarless boat, were all that remained to tell the ghastly tale, that every hand on board was lost. At the entrance of the Great Man's Bay, which was far out of their course, is even now shown the spot where on that fatal night they perished.

    A.D. 1570. Morchowe O'Brien, in consideration of a sum of money to him in hand paid, conveyed these

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Along here, in 1560, Teige O'Brien, lord of the isles, was returning to Aran from a plundering expedition in Munster, loaded with booty. He had put to sea from one of the seaports of that province, and his sailors warned him a tempest was impending. He insisted on weighing anchor, deceived by what the source calls the calm before the storm. As the starless night was closing and deepening around him, the gale freshened as he advanced. His vessel struggled amidst the waves, for the wind was high against it. When the morning rolled the clouds away, a broken spar and an oarless boat were all that remained to tell that every hand on board was lost. The entrance of Great Man's Bay, far out of their course, is the spot where on that fatal night they perished, and it was still shown at the time of writing.

26. Ferns of Aran and the invisibility superstition

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The ferns of Aran are noted as a botanical curiosity, their seed said to render anyone who places it in their shoes instantly invisible. A tale is told of a man searching for a stray foal who unknowingly got fern seed in his shoes and became invisible to his own family at breakfast.

    Read the passage

    Ferns. — Not the least interesting amongst the botanical curiosities of Aran are the ferns, that carry their seed on their backs — a seed that has, it is said, the extraordinary property of making the person in whose shoes it is placed instantly invisible to all but himself. So Shakespeare has it, too, in his play of " i Henry IV.," act ii. scene i :

    " We have the receipt of fern seed, we walk invisible."

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

27. Land Commission sitting at Kilronan, 1886

    Kilronan · village · Galway · 1885–1886

    The Land Commission sat at Kilronan on 20th July 1886, with islanders crowding in to hear their cases. The men sat or squatted on the floor and gave evidence with ease and precision, especially when examined in Irish, many cases having stood over from the previous sittings on 25th June 1885 when ninety-five were listed.

    Read the passage

    and univalves — lobsters, oysters, periwinkles. The Aranite may be said to be an amphibious animal — a fisherman and a farmer, but as a fisherman he is powerless to cope with them whose ships are built for the deep sea fishery. It was as a farmer we had the pleasure of seeing him, and in the court of the Land Commission, which sat in Kilronan on the 2oth of July, 1886. The Land Court presented an animated appearance on that day, the islanders crowding in to hear their cases. Unlike any Europeans that we know of, the men sat or squatted on the floor in manner as the Mahometans would in the mosques of Bussorah. Remarkably intelligent, they gave their evidence in court with an ease and precision, especially when examined in Irish, which it was refreshing to hear. Many of the cases stood over from the Land Commission sittings in the islands on June 25. 1885, on which occasion there were ninety-five listed for a hearing, and of these the following, the first heard, is a fair specimen of all the rest, the Commission being composed of Mr. Crean, B.L., Professor Baldwin, and Mr. Barry.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 30

28. Lough Lurgan tradition and the formation of Galway Bay

    North Sound · channel sound · Galway

    The North Sound between Iar Connaught and Inishmore is called Bealagh-a-Lurgan ('Lough Lurgan way'). Tradition holds that 213 years from the Flood, Atlantic waters burst across the Aran barriers to join the ancient lake Lough Lurgan, forming Galway Bay and leaving the Aran islands as remnants of the barrier.

    Read the passage

    separated from Inishmore, the largest and most westerly island, by the North Sound, five and a half miles wide, called by the natives Bealagh-a- Lurgan^ " Lough Lurgan way." Lough Lurgan was the ancient name of a lake that formerly lay west of Galway, and the tradition is that in the old times before us — 213 years from the Flood — the waters of the Atlantic, sweeping in the full fury of their force across the Aran barriers, united with the waters of the lake and formed the Bay of Galway, leaving the islands of Aran the towering remnants of the barriers which were too strong even for the Atlantic billows to carry away. Between Inishmore and Inishmaan is Gregory's Sound, a mile and a half wide, called by the natives Bealagh-ne-Hayte, " Hayte's way." The present name was given to it by the monks, who called the sound " Gregory," in honour of Pope Gregory the Great, after he had converted or aided in converting the Anglo-Saxons to the Christian faith. Between the middle island, Inishmaan, and Inisheer, the eastern and smallest island, is the "foul sound," four miles wide ; and between Inisheer and the county of Clare is the "south sound," four miles wide. This is the great waterway between " the old sea," as the natives call the Atlantic, and the Bay of Galway.

    The sum of the lengths of the three islands and of the two intervening sounds is eighteen miles. The area of the entire group is 11,288 acres; poor law

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 1

29. Surrender of Fort of Ardkyn

    Innismore · street · Dublin · 1652

    In January 1652, Colonel Oliver Synnot surrendered the Fort of Ardkyn to Parliamentary forces under Commissary-General Reynolds. The garrison was granted quarters and six weeks to transport to Spain or an allied country.

    Read the passage

    "(i) It is concluded and agreed that all the officers and soldiers both belonging to sea and land shall have quarters, as also all others the clergyman and other persons within the Fort. (2) That they shall have six weeks for their transportation into Spain or any other place in amity with the State of England, and that hostages shall be given by Colonel Synnot for the punctual performance of these Articles. (3) That Colonel Synnot shall deliver up, with all necessaries of war, by three o'clock this ifth of January, 1652, before which time all officers and soldiers belonging to the said Fort shall march with drums beating to the Church near Ardkyn and there lay down their arms. (4) That Colonel Synnot and the captains, eight in number, shall have liberty to carry their swords, the other officers and soldiers to lay down their arms ; that Commissary Reynolds shall nominate four officers of the Fort hostages. (5) That Colonel Synnot, with the rest of the officers and all other persons in the Fort shall, upon delivering their arms and delivering

    44 ERASMUS SMITH.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 21

30. Aran gentlemen appoint attorney to ransom islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1575

    In July 1575, several gentlemen of Aran appointed Captain Morchowe McTerrilagh O'Brien as their attorney for ransoming the isles of Aran from James Lynch. That same month in Galway, O'Brien claimed an ancestral privilege of lodgings and meals for two days in the town.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1575. In June of this year it was agreed between the mortgagor and mortgagee of the islands " that in case the sept of clan Tiege O'Brien, the said mortgagor, should decease and perish, then that James Lynch Fitz Ambrose, the mortgagee, should be their sole heir, and possess, Aran, and all other their lands, and that said O'Brien should not alienate or mortgage any part or parcel of Aran to any person without the mortgagee's consent and license." It appears, however, thatTieg Eturgh, Morchowe Morowe, Conchor McMurchowe, Terrilagh Meeagh, Tieg McTerrilagh, Dermot McMurchowe, Tieg McTerrilagh Oge, and Conchor McMoriertagh, McBrene, gentlemen, all of Aran, and Dermot McCormick McConnor, of the Castle of Trowmore, afterwards on July 14, 1575, appointed Captain Morchowe McTerrilagh O'Brien their attorney for ransoming the isles of Aran from James Lynch, that all such parts as he should so ransom should belong to him (O'Brien) and his heirs for ever.*

    It would appear that this Captain Morchowe McTerrilagh O'Brien, of the Clantiege of Aran, on July 14 of the same year, 1575, was in Gal way ; and being there, was minded to claim the privilege his ancestors had, he alleged, enjoyed of lodgings and meals for two days and two nights in the town, and the " mayor * Hardiman, " History of Gal way," p. 208 note.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 17

31. 1745 whale stranding and royal franchise legal case at Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1745

    On 1 August 1745, a great whale appeared in Aran waters and was harpooned by a defendant who extracted fifty gallons of oil. The Corporation of Galway, claiming royal franchises over wrecks and strays in the bay, brought suit, but the court ruled that a whale was not the King's alone to grant—half belonging to the Queen consort—and directed a verdict against the plaintiff.

    Read the passage

    plaintiff; Mr. John Bodkin and Mr. Morgan for the defendant The case as stated by the learned counsel for the plaintiff was that from times of remote antiquity the O'Briens were lords of the isles of Aran, or to use somewhat of legal phraseology, were lords of the manor of Aran, and as such, and in their manorial rights they were entitled to all the royal franchises, wrecks, and other strays washed on the shores either of the islands or mainlands of the bay. But the Crown had made a grant of the royal franchises away from the lords of the manor, and had conferred the same on the Admiral of the Bay of Galway, the office of Admiral of the Bay belonging to and being held by the mayor of the town. Now, on the ist of August, 1 745, a great whale, which appeared in the Aran waters, was stranded, and harpooned by the defendant, who obtained from it no less than fifty gallons of oil The blubber and the whalebone were all there ready to be transported to the Dublin market, and the defendant had actually converted to his own use so much of this royal franchise as would realize a sum of ^160. Plaintiffs patent was full, ample, and large ; so full, so ample, and so large, that he, counsel, could not but wonder that any lawyer at the bar would sign the pleadings in a case in which a verdict must be directed on the spot for the plaintiff.

    Counsel for the defendant did not feel so sure of the success of his learned friend's case as his learned

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 23

32. Clan MacTeige ruled Aran islands for 470 years

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1118–1588

    The O'Briens, lords of Aran, traced their pedigree to Bryan Boroimhe, King of Thomond, who fell at Clontarf in 1014. The clan MacTeige, descended from Bryan's youngest son Teige, ruled the Aran islands for 470 years with what the author describes as an equitable and paternal rule.

    Read the passage

    WE have spoken so much in the foregoing pages of the O'Briens, lords of Aran, that we feel inclined to say a word as to, who those O'Briens were, whence they came, and whither they went ; and first, let us state that their pedigree is traced by Irish genealogists to a date earlier than the Christian era. The O'Briens, lords of Aran, were descended from Bryan Boroimhe, King of Thomond and monarch of all Ireland, who conquered and fell at the battle of Clontarf on April 23, 1014, when the Danish power, all over Ireland, was scattered to the four winds of heaven. In the third generation after the death of Bryan, his descendant Dermod sat on the throne of Thomond, and this Dermod had sons and daughters, and the eldest of the sons was called Turlough, who in 1118 became, on his father's death, King of Thomond, whilst his younger brother was Mahon, and his youngest brother was Teige ; and the clan MacTeige for 470 years ruled those islands, we have no doubt, with a very equitable and a very paternal rule, and wholly unhampered with legislative bodies such as a Witenagemot,

    106 O'BRIENS LORDS OF ARAN.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42

33. Roadside stone pillar crosses commemorating the dead

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    In Aran, the islanders erect square stone pillars about ten feet high on roadsides, each surmounted by a well-cut stone cross with inscriptions appealing to travellers to pray for the deceased. The dead commemorated are generally buried in far-distant churchyards, and the monuments present a ghastly appearance by moonlight.

    Read the passage

    The extreme politeness of the islanders, and their desire to impart any knowledge they possess of antiquarian lore or of the legends or fairy tales with which the islands abound, must strike with force the mind of the observing tourist Their reverence for the dead, and their affection for their loved and departed friends, impel them to erect, sometimes in long lines on the roadside, square stone pillars about ten feet in height by three feet each side, all of the same measurements, surmounted each with a well-cut stone cross and with inscriptions such as the following : " S/a viator. Stay, traveller. O Lord have mercy on the soul of Mac Dara Ternan, who departed

    62 THEIR HOLY WELLS.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 28

34. St. Enda's monastery at Killeany on Inishmore

    Killeany · townland · Galway

    St. Enda obtained the islands of Aran from the King of Cashel and introduced a multitude of holy men to live a contemplative life. He divided the islands into ten parts, built ten monasteries, and chose for his own residence a site on the eastern coast of Inishmore, preserved today in the village of Killeany (Kil-Enda), about a mile from Kilronan.

    Read the passage

    to an idolatry, but his idolatry must end, and his idol must die an early death. The abbess brought him weeping into the chamber where the corpse of his loved one was laid Fancha then reminded him of how favour is deceitful and how beauty is vain, and how the day, dim and remote, would still come when he would be as his affianced bride now was. " Love not the world, nor the things that are in the world ! " exclaimed the abbess with a vehemence that her earnestness inspired. That world was then abjured, and straightway he entered a religious order, that of the Regular Canons of St. Augustine, and after years of study and probation, was ordained priest in Rome. He thence returned to the kingdom of Oriel in Ireland, where he built several churches. Having visited his sister and her husband the King of Cashel, the latter was, after much hesitation, persuaded to confer upon God and upon Enda the islands of Aran. Possession of a place so retired and so suited to study and contemplation being thus obtained, Enda introduced there a multitude of holy men, monks to live like the Essenes of old, a contemplative life. He divided the islands into ten parts, and built ten monasteries, each under the rule of its proper superior ; whilst he chose a place for his own residence on the eastern coast of the western island of Inishmore, and there erected a monastery, the name and site of which are preserved even to this day in the little village of

    20 ST. BRENDAN.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 10

35. Islander of Aran said to live 220 years

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1580

    In 1580, an islander of Aran reportedly died at the extreme old age of 220 years, having killed a bullock in his own house every year for 180 years. This tradition reflects the folklore of extraordinary longevity on the islands.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1580. There died in this year in the islands of Aran an islander who had reached the extreme old age of two hundred and twenty years. This patriarchal inhabitant killed a bullock in his own house every year for one hundred and eighty years.

    A.D. 1586. In this year the O'Briens, long the lords of the islands of Aran, "wereexpulsed from their territory by ye ferocious O'Flaherties of larConnaught." The matter was brought under the knowledge of the Crown, who resolved to put an end to the lawless savagery which existed in those parts, whereby one sept could, in times of peace, sail on a plundering expedition against another and expel them, wasting the country with fire and sword all the time ; and accordingly a commission, under the great seal, was issued for the purpose of examining the title, if any, of the O'Flaherties to the islands. Having gone through the mockery of an inquisition, the commissioners found that the islands belonged not to the O'Briens, lords of the isles, nor yet to the O'Flaherties, who had no title at all, but that they belonged to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth in right of her crown and dignity ; and accordingly she, by her letters patent dated January i5th, A.D. 1587, instead

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 18

36. Cromlechs and hero burials on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    Immense cromlechs—altar flags supported on perpendicular pillars of unhammered stone—still stand on Aran, and beneath them rest the remains of ancient heroes. Faithful dogs were interred with their masters, bearing them company in death.

    Read the passage

    of old, men of renown, whose acts and deeds even now are celebrated in songs sung at the cottage firesides by minstrels to the strings of the wandering harper : on every lip are the exploits of Churcullen, of Gol, son of Morna, of Oscar, and of Ossian, and here are pointed out the places where they lived and died. We have also the immense " cromlechs " or altar flags, supported on perpendicular pillars, as we may venture to call the unhammered stones of about three feet in height, whilst under those " cromlechs " still rest the remains of heroes whose faithful dogs interred with them bear them company even in death. Here, too, no bad memory is retained of the sacred fires of Bal (another name for the sun), which were kept burning ; for the sun, and the moon, and the stars were by them reverenced ; but the sun of the Druids was supposed to be the most noble type of the Godhead — the most glorious object of the material creation. The mysterious stones, twelve in number, encircling the altars of sacrifice, sometimes said to be zodiacal rings, after the twelve signs of the zodiac, are here frequently to be found. The purifying ordeals the cattle were subject to at Aran until a very late period are yet there remembered. The sacred fires on the first day of each of the quarters blazed from cairn to cairn, amid prayers for the fruits of the earth, and even yet, on St. John's Eve in June, huge bonfires are lighted near every village through the

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 8

37. Sir Robert Lynch's lands forfeited to Erasmus Smith

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1652–1662

    After the Parliamentary forces took possession, Sir Robert Lynch, the late proprietor of the Aran islands, was declared a forfeiting traitor. His rights were transferred to London adventurer Erasmus Smith, whose interest was later purchased by Richard Butler, created Earl of Aran in 1662.

    Read the passage

    The Parliamentary forces, on taking possession of the fortifications, found several large pieces of cannon, with a considerable quantity of arms and ammunition ; they seized also a French shallop with twenty-eight oars and several large boats. The Fort was soon after repaired and strongly reinforced. The late proprietor of the islands, Sir Robert Lynch, was declared a forfeiting traitor, and his right made over to Erasmus Smith, Esq., a London adventurer whose interest was afterwards purchased by Richard Butler, created Earl of Aran in 1662.

    A.D. 1653. The castle of Ardkyn was by order of the Lord Protector pulled down, and a strong fort erected in its place. Thenceforth Aran became the place of transportation for the Catholic clergy, whilst on the mainland the most violent acts of oppression and injustice openly took place. The King's arms and every other emblem of royalty were torn down, and fifty priests were shipped for Aran * until they could * Froude's English in Ireland, vol. i.f p. 134.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 21

38. Aran islanders' reverence for holy wells

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The people of Aran hold holy wells in great reverence and will not suffer their faith in them to be ridiculed. A peasant argued with a stranger that a well gushing from a hillside must be miraculous, reasoning that water on a mountaintop must have flowed up the hill inside before flowing down outside.

    Read the passage

    this life 26th June, 1842." These monuments of the dead, who are generally interred in far-distant churchyards, have by moonlight a ghastly appearance. The reverence of the Aranite for holy wells is great, nor will he suffer in silence his faith in them to be ridiculed. " Can you," said a stranger, " be so silly as to believe that that well gushing out of the hillside was placed there by a saint, in dim and remote ages?" The peasant replied that a well on a mountain side or on a mountain top appeared to him to be miraculous. " And isn't it, sir, wonderful to see water on the top of a hill ? And it must flow up the hill inside before it can flow down the hill outside ; " and water flowing up the hill inside or outside was to his mind miraculous. The stranger answered that, "the water may have been forced up from some far-off lake on a higher level." The peasant's answer was, " that may be so and it may not be so, but your honour does not give us any proof that it is so." Wells in all ages and in all places are associated with the marvellous, even from the well of Zem-zem to that on the Aran rocks, and we are not so sure that the geological stranger was quite satisfactory as to his theory of wells on a mountain summit.

    Speaking of the wonders by which the native of Aran is surrounded, what wonder can be greater than that of the mirage, an island that is said to rise after sunset from the Atlantic ? A phantom island which

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 28

39. Druidic fire rituals and cattle purification on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Druids kindled two great fires with incantations and drove cattle between them as a purifying ordeal; if the animals escaped unharmed it was auspicious. This practice gave rise to the saying 'placed between the two fires of Baal.'

    Read the passage

    island, for the holy flame was considered essential to the cattle as a preservative from contagious disorders. The Druids kindled after their manner two immense fires, with great incantations, close to each other, whilst between those fires the cattle were driven, and if they escaped unharmed it was considered as auspicious as it would be inauspicious for man and beast to be therein harmed, and hence the saying, "Placed between the two fires of Baal." Concerning the mysteries of their religion, the Druids did not commit them to writing, and therefore it is that so little is known of their teachings or of what they taught, and what they did teach is said by some to have been taught in the Greek language, " to the end," writes Sir Edward Coke, " that their discipline might not be made so common amongst the vulgar, nay more, their very names and appellations may serve as a proof of their use of the Greek tongue, they being called Druids from Aprs, an oak, because, saith Pliny, they frequent the woods where oaks are, and in all their sacrifices they use the leaves of those trees." *

    With Druidism departed the forests of the ilex and the quercus from Aran. May we venture to hope that, in the coming changes, Aran may once more be re-afforested, and that the islanders, who have now no coal, no timber, and no turf to burn, may have at least timber to burn in great abundance in the near future ? * II. Coke's Reports, part iii. Preface, p. viii.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

40. Rowan tree protective customs on Aran Islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    On the Aran Islands, mountain ash (rowan) was used to protect against witchcraft: whip-handles of rowan unbewitched horses, switches tied with red thread protected cows, and churn-staffs of rowan guarded butter from the evil eye.

    Read the passage

    Strange that the mountain ash, the rowan tree, should be held in horror by witches. "Of it whip-handles are made, for the bewitched and stumbling horses thereby become unbewitched and unstumblers." So also the housewife should, before turning the cows out to grass for the summer, tie a switch of mountain ash with a red worsted thread around the cow's tail. The chum, so often bewitched of its butter, is certain to withstand the evil eye when the churn-staff is manufactured of the rowan tree. The roots of the ash or the mountain ash, in Aran, are of rare occurrence ; we shall, therefore, pass on to the aspen, of which it is said that it alone refused to bow, as the other trees did, to the Redeemer, and that for

    94 ELDER — PINE.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

41. Cloghauns and hermitage cells near Teampull-Chiarain

    Innismore · street · Dublin

    Near Teampull-Chiarain on Inishmore are the remains of a hermitage partly sunk in the rock and stone-roofed cloghauns—circular beehive chambers about twenty feet in exterior diameter with a hole for a chimney and an Egyptian-like doorway.

    Read the passage

    north. It is fifteen feet long, by seventeen feet high to the summit of the gables, by eleven feet in breadth. Close by are the remains of the hermitage, partly sunk in the rock, and of some cloghauns, or stone-roofed dwellings. How those solitaries, who for centuries held up the lamp of learning which shone across Europe during the long night which followed the breaking up of the Roman empire, could live in such comfortless cells, it is impossible to apprehend : circular chambers about twenty feet in exterior diameter, with a hole in the stone beehive roof for a chimney, and with an Egyptian-like doorway that a tall man could with difficulty enter. Teampull-Chiarain has a beautiful eastern window, with some crosses. Four miles from Kilronan are Kilmurvey and Teampul McDuach, a sixth-century church, consisting of nave and choir in beautiful preservation. There are windows there of remote antiquity, with lintels formed of two leaning stones; and there is a semicircular window of great beauty of a more recent date. There is a stone leaning against the eastern gable with a rudely cut opening which seems to have been the head of the more ancient window. The narrow doorway is like the entrance to an Egyptian tomb. Another small church, Teampul-beg, together with a holy well and monastic enclosure, is worthy of inspection. At the north-western side of the Inishmore island, and six miles from Kilronan,

    CHILDLESS MARRIAGES. 2/

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Along here, near Teampull-Chiarain on Inishmore, are the remains of a hermitage partly sunk into the rock, with cloghauns beside it — stone-roofed dwellings shaped like beehives. These are circular chambers, about 20 feet across, with a hole left in the stone roof for a chimney and an Egyptian-like doorway so narrow a tall man could barely squeeze through. The solitaries who lived in these comfortless cells for centuries, the book says, "held up the lamp of learning which shone across Europe during the long night which followed the breaking up of the Roman empire."

42. Lightning shatters the Gregory granite block on Inishmore, 1774

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1774

    In 1774 a fearful thunderstorm visited Inishmore, and a granite block of enormous dimensions called the Gregory was struck by lightning, shattered to atoms, and flung into the sea. The event was related by the chemist Richard Kirwan from his own memory.

    Read the passage

    These islands in prehistoric times must have suffered much from the convulsions which then shook the world — in later times they appear to have suffered little, though Richard Kirwan the chemist relates that in his memory, in the year 1774, a fearful thunderstorm visited Inishmore, when a granite block of enormous dimensions, called the "Gregory," was struck by lightning, shattered to atoms, and flung into the sea.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 7

43. St. Braccan's bed and childless marriage legend

    Innismore · street · Dublin

    A legend on the Aran islands concerns St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and had her prayers granted for children in a childless marriage, likened to Anna's prayer in the temple of Silo.

    Read the passage

    are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel

    The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on this street, the story belongs to St. Braccan, whose church was called Teampul Brecain. He founded the monastery of Ardbraccan, which is now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The remains of seven churches stand here, all small, never more than 60 feet in length. At the eastern end there is often a chancel where the altar was placed, and between the nave and the chancel stood a semicircular chancel arch. A fine example of that arch survives in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. The temples were poorly lit, by small windows splaying inwards. On the middle island the ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree draws interest, and the eastern island was once called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan, St. Kevin, brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned saints of Aran, and was believed to have often abated storms after being piously invoked. But the legend that lives here is that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo, when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel.

44. Franciscan monastery on Inis Mór suppressed

    Innismore · street · Dublin · 1485–1537

    A Franciscan monastery of strict observance was built on the great island of Aran in 1485. It was short-lived; the Annals of the Four Masters record that by 1537 not a single monastery from Aran of the Saints to the Straits of Dover remained undestroyed.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1485. A monastery was built in this year on the great island for the Franciscans of the strict observance ; but this community was doomed to be short lived, for the word had gone forth from Henry VIII. to suppress the monasteries and they were suppressed ; and the annalists thus, in the Annals of the Four Masters, A.D. 1537, chronicle not alone their overthrow, but the spread of a new religion in England, " A new heresy and error arose in England through pride, vain-glory, avarice, sensuality, and many strange speculations, so that the people of England went into opposition to the Pope and to

    * Pat. Rolls, I Hen. IV. 7. m.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Along here once stood a Franciscan monastery of strict observance, built in 1485 on the great island of Aran. It was short-lived. Henry the Eighth had ordered the monasteries suppressed, and they were suppressed. The Annals of the Four Masters, in 1537, chronicle that not a single monastery from Aran of the Saints to the Straits of Dover remained undestroyed. The annalists wrote that "a new heresy and error arose in England through pride, vain-glory, avarice, sensuality, and many strange speculations," so that the people of England went into opposition to the Pope.

45. Devotional customs and greetings of the Aranites

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Aran islanders' devotional expressions and meek resignation to misfortune are noted as their most striking character traits. Their customary greetings include saying 'God save all here' upon entering a house and 'God bless the work, boys' to men working in a field.

    Read the passage

    The devotional expressions of the Aranites and the meekness and resignation with which they bear misfortunes or afflictions is the most striking feature in their character. "I had a beautiful girl for a daughter," said an Aranite peasant, " and I laid her in her grave yesterday, praise be to His holy Name that took her to Himself." A poor woman asking for charity tells you that " she hasn't eaten a bit this day, thanks be to God." Another says, " In troth I have been suffering for a long time from poverty and sickness, glory be to God." Their mode of salutation, too, is worthy of remembrance. The visitor on entering a house says, " God save all here." Meet a man on the road, greet him with a " God save you, sir ; " instantly he'll remove his hat and reply, " God save you kindly, your honour." If you pass by men working in a field, always address them with a " God bless the work, boys ; " they * Stokes' " Life of Dr. Petrie," pp. 49, 50.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 25

46. O'Briens' 1641 attempt to retake Aran frustrated

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1641

    In 1641, the clan Tiege O'Briens still claimed the islands as their inheritance and prepared to attack them with a considerable force, aided by Boetius Clancy the younger of Clare. The project was frustrated by the opposition of the Marquis of Clanricarde, then governor of County Galway.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1618. "Indenture of June 2oth, between Henry Lynch, son and heir of Roebuck Lynch, of Galway, deceased, of the one part, and William Anderson, of Aran, in said county, of the other, whereby he, the said Henry Lynch, for and in consideration of a sum of j£$o of English currency to him paid, did thereby demise and assign all that and those, a moiety of the said three islands to him, the said William Anderson, his executors, administrators, and assigns, for a long term of years, excepting thereout" what must have then been in the islands, "great trees, mines, and minerals, and hawks, at an annual rent of ^3 Irish, and a proportion of port corn, as therein is set forth." A.D. 1641. The clan Tiege O'Briens still claimed the islands as their legitimate inheritance, and, taking

    42 ARCHBISHOP O'QUEELY.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 20

47. Perpetual fire ritual on Aran Islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    On the Aran Islands, once a year all fires and lights but one were extinguished, leaving only the oaken yule-log, from which every other fire in the islands was relit with much ceremony.

    Read the passage

    yule-log which served to maintain the perpetual fire. Once a year all fires and lights but one were extinguished, and that was the oaken log, from which every other fire in the islands was with much ceremony relighted.

    The medicinal qualities of the tree, and the charmed life it bore, prophetic, as we have said, and causing diseases to depart by its spells and incantations, must have made its existence, if it knew anything at all about it, a happy one. The Irish of the " oak " is Dara, and many an Aranite bears that name.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

48. St. Finnian of Moville's pilgrimage from Aran to Rome

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    St. Finnian of Moville was a disciple of St. Enda and set out from Aran on a pilgrimage to Rome. He returned to Ireland bringing a copy of the Gospels, the Papal benediction, and the Canons of St. Finnian, before departing again for Italy where he was made Bishop of Lucca and died in 588.

    Read the passage

    Another of St Enda's disciples was St Finnian of Moville — and it was from Aran he set out on his pilgrimage to Rome. Soon after he returned to Ireland, bringing with him a copy of the Gospels, the Papal benediction, and the Canons of St. Finnian. Again departing for Italy, he was made Bishop of Lucca, in Italy, where he died in 588. St. Columba spent years in Aran, and deeply was he grieved at leaving it for lona. His bitter lament in Irish verse has been translated into English metre by the late Sir Aubrey De Vere, Bart., in part as follows : —

    22 ST. COLUMBA.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 11

49. Sublime south-west cliffs of Aran with sea caverns

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The south-west side of the Aran islands featured perpendicular cliffs hundreds of feet high, perforated by winding sea caverns. From one cavern with a surface aperture, a column of water was projected to the height of a ship's mast.

    Read the passage

    to speak, to the islands, but have been carried from a district such as that of Oughterard. Strange that some limestone boulders have also been dropped, carried from some far-off limestone district. These boulders have withstood the wreck of ages, but the weatherbeaten rocks under them are so worn as here and there to present the appearance of pedestals bearing up the superincumbent masses. Whilst there is much to arrest the attention as you look from the hotel windows towards Galway over the Galway bay, bounded on the north by the grotesque desolation of the Connemara mountains, and on the south by the rocky mountains of the county of Clare, it is on the south-west side of the islands of Aran that the scene is awfully sublime, terrific, and impressive —rendered more awful by reason of the confusion of the waters and of the roaring of the waves of the sea. The heavy swell of the Atlantic there rolls in angry billows against the cliffs dark and perpendicular, hundreds of feet in height — cliffs perforated by winding caverns worn by the violence of the waves, from one of which, having an aperture in the surface, was projected a column of water to the height of a ship's mast. Whilst many of these cliffs rise perpendicularly from the ocean, many of them have sea terraces or steps at foot below the high-water mark. At Jllaun-a-naur, on the south-easterly side of the great island, are seaterraced cliffs which are fendered by a rampart formed

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 6

50. Revolt of Aran and Galway against the Crown

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1400

    Following the Burke rebellion in Connaught, Galway and the South Isles of Aran joined the Clanrickardes against Henry IV. The King issued a royal license permitting armed men to attack and capture the rebels in the islands.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1400. The rebellion of the Mayo and Clanrickarde Burkes in the province of Connaught, consequent on the murder, in 1333, of William De Burgh, Earl of Ulster and fifth Lord of Connaught, caused the overthrow for nearly two hundred years, of the English power in that province. The town of Galway, oscillating in its allegiance between the Crown and the Clanricardes, joined that powerful family against Henry IV., and in their revolt they were joined by the South Isles of Aran. Thereupon the King did by royal license permit certain persons to attack the rebels in the said island, which license is as follows : —

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 15

51. Druidic survivals and fairy belief on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Aran islanders consider ancient Druidic remains inviolable, believing them to be enchanted haunts of aerial beings whose power they dread and seek to propitiate. This folk belief has preserved many pagan monuments on the islands.

    Read the passage

    THE " remnants of things that have passed away " are many on these islands. In no other part of the United Kingdom are there confined in spaces so narrow so many monuments of Pagan times ; here are evidences of two great ages of civilization — that of the Druids and that of the Christians ; but, whether of the Druids or of the Christians, Aran had been the retreat in early times of the contemplative and the learned. Sequestered and undisturbed, the natives have even to this day preserved much of the moral and physical remains of the ancient world. The Aranites in their simplicity consider the remains of the Druids as inviolable, being as they fondly imagine the enchanted haunts and property of aerial beings, whose power of doing mischief they greatly dread and studiously propitiate. The natives believe that the "cairns" or circular mounds are the sepulchres of the mighty mer.

    14 DRUIDISM.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 8

52. Moving sands at Trawmore preserve bodies uncorrupted

    Tramore · town · Waterford

    Enormous quantities of fine quartzose moving sands on Aran were said to possess the property of preserving bodies uncorrupted after death. At Trawmore, south of Killeany Bay, proofs were lately discovered of sand-hill movement and submerged fields and buildings on the coast.

    Read the passage

    Another remarkable feature in Aran is the enormous amount of fine quartzose — moving sands which, blown in thick clouds by the winds, fill the nooks and corners and crevices of the islands. These sands, which are said to possess the property of preserving bodies uncorrupted after death, might be fixed and utilized in the same manner as the sands of Arcachon on the west coast of France have been fixed and utilized, by planting therein vast forests of the Pinus maritima, the interlacery of whose roots would do the twofold duty of fixing the sands and creating a soil enriched by the amount of nitrogen therein digested and deposited. At Trawmore, on the south of Killeany Bay, proofs have lately been discovered not only of the

    12 MOVING SANDS IN ARAN.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 7

53. Archbishop O'Queely and description of Aran churches

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1645

    Malachy O'Queely, Catholic archbishop of Tuam, died in 1645. John Colgan was indebted to him for a description of the three islands of Aran and their churches.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1645. The death of Malachy O'Queely, Catholic archbishop of Tuam, occurred in this year. To him John Colgan was indebted for a description of the three islands of Aran and their churches.

    A.D. 1651. When the royal authority was fast declining, the Marquis of Clanricarde resolved to fortify these islands, wherein he placed 200 musketeers with officers and a gunner, under the command of Sir Robert Lynch, owner of the islands. The fort of Ardkyn, in the large island, was soon after repaired and furnished with cannon, and by this means held out against the Parliamentary forces near a year after the surrender of Galway. In December, 1650, the Irish, routed in every other quarter, landed here 700 men. On the Qth of the following January, 1300 foot, with a battering piece, were shipped from the Bay of Galway to attack them, and 600 men were marched to lar Connaught, to be thence sent, if necessary, to the assistance of the assailants. On the i5th the islands surrendered on the following terms : —

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 20

54. Baal worship and sacred groves in Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The author discusses the worship of Baal in Aran and the sacred groves that once existed there, drawing parallels with Hebrew and classical traditions. He notes it is impossible to determine whether the groves were destroyed at the time Christianity was introduced or in later ages.

    Read the passage

    Whether the groves of Aran were destroyed at the time of the destruction of the religion of Baal and of the introduction of Christianity, or in after-ages, it is impossible now to state. That great trees had existence in the islands in 1618 is certain, as appears by a partly hereinbefore recited indenture of that date, when Henry Lynch did demise a moiety of the three

    * I Chron. x. 12. f Deut. xvi. 21.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 40

55. Baltimore fishery boom with steamers and ice storage

    Baltimore · town · Cork · 1886

    By 1886, sixteen steamers were employed carrying fish from Baltimore to England at an estimated cost of £400 each per month. Three vessels arrived with 1,423 tons of imported ice, and eight hulks were used for storing it, owned by a company of fish buyers.

    Read the passage

    At Baltimore in 1886, sixteen steamers were employed in carrying the fish to England, at an estimated cost of ^400 each per month.

    Over 100 men were employed in the boats used by the buyers ; and at a rate of wages which, for twelve weeks, would amount to about ^1500, besides a large expenditure upon packers, etc.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Baltimore in 1886 was a busy fishery operation. Sixteen steamers were employed carrying fish to England, at an estimated cost of 400 pounds each per month. Over 100 men worked in the boats used by the buyers, and wages for twelve weeks came to about 1,500 pounds, besides a large expenditure on packers and more.

56. Barony of Inchiquin created for Murrough O'Brien, 1543

    Inchiquin · townland · Clare · 1543

    In 1543, the last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry VIII, who in return granted by patent the title of Baron of Inchiquin to Murrough O'Brien and the heirs male of his body. The Inchiquin title descended through the elder son Dermot until the line died out in 1855, when the barony passed to a collateral branch.

    Read the passage

    The title of Inchiquin dates from the year 1543, but no title was required to ennoble those who were of the blood of kings, and were " nobler than the royalty that first ennobled them." The untitled aristocracy in England are often superior to the titled aristocracy, who cannot trace back farther than the Wars of the Roses. Now, the last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry VIII., who in return, by patent A.D. 1543, bestowed upon Murrough O'Brien, and upon the heirs male of his body, the title of Baron of Inchiquin. This Murrough had two sons, the elder Dermot, and the younger Donough, and Dermot on his father's death became Baron of Inchiquin ; and so the title descended from father to son until the year 1855, when James, the twelfth baron, who was also seventh Earl of Inchiquin (creation A.D. 1654) and third Marquis of Thomond (A.D. 1800), died without issue

    * 2 Sam. xii. 31.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42

57. Mac Dara Ternan roadside memorial cross inscription

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1842

    A roadside stone cross on Aran bears an inscription in Latin and English asking travellers to pray for the soul of Mac Dara Ternan, who died on 26th June 1842. This is given as a typical example of the inscriptions found on the island's roadside memorial pillars.

    Read the passage

    The extreme politeness of the islanders, and their desire to impart any knowledge they possess of antiquarian lore or of the legends or fairy tales with which the islands abound, must strike with force the mind of the observing tourist Their reverence for the dead, and their affection for their loved and departed friends, impel them to erect, sometimes in long lines on the roadside, square stone pillars about ten feet in height by three feet each side, all of the same measurements, surmounted each with a well-cut stone cross and with inscriptions such as the following : " S/a viator. Stay, traveller. O Lord have mercy on the soul of Mac Dara Ternan, who departed

    62 THEIR HOLY WELLS.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 28

58. St. Fursa's burial on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 500–599

    St. Fursa frequented Aran in the sixth century and was known for his visions, which are said to have formed the groundwork of Dante's Inferno. After dying at Peronne in France, his body was conveyed to the island of Aran, where he was laid to rest among his former brethren.

    Read the passage

    feelings were on seeing for the first time the holy city he thus in that immortal work informs us : " My temper is not very susceptible of enthusiasm, and the enthusiasm which I do not feel I have ever scorned to affect, but at the distance of twenty-five years, I can neither forget nor express the strong emotions which agitated my mind as I first approached and entered the Eternal City. After a sleepless night I trod with a lofty step the ruins of the Forum." St Fursa, returning on foot through France, died at Peronne, and his body was conveyed to the island of Aran, where amongst his quondam brethren he now, awaiting the resurrection of the just, reposes.

    Of the monuments, as well pre-Christian as Christian, in these islands, there are twenty-one, vested in the secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland, to be preserved as national monuments, (See next page.)

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 12

59. James II grants Aran tithes to Archbishop of Tuam

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1687

    In 1687, James II granted three-fourths of the tithes of the Aran Islands to the Protestant Lord Archbishop of Tuam, John Vesey, and his successors. The author notes this bestowal on the Protestant line appears unaccountable.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1687. A grant was made in this year by James II. of three- fourths of the tithes of Aran islands to the Most Reverend John Vesey, D.D., Protestant Lord Archbishop of Tuam, and his successors in the See. One could readily account for his Majesty's bestowing the tithes in question on the Catholic archbishop, but why he bestowed them on the Protestant line appears unaccountable; yet so it is stated in the appendix to the report of the Royal Commission

    46 THE FLORA OF ARAN.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22

60. Kelp industry on Aran Islands peaked in 1866

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1866–1886

    Seaweed was highly valuable on the Aran islands: in 1866, kelp made on the islands realized £2,577 at £5 per ton. By the 1880s, no kelp was made owing to the fall in prices. Tenants also took manure and seaweed from the seashore free of charge.

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    tained 4 townlands and 4 x 6 x 16 x 16 = 6144 acres. On Inishmaan there are two townlands, which contain 6 quarters each. On Innisheer there is only one townland containing 4 quarters. The tenants have manure and seaweed from the sea shore free of charge. The seaweed was very valuable in 1866, when the kelp made on the islands realized ^2577,

    7O LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 32