The south isles of Aran (County Galway)

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Pampoodies: traditional raw cow-hide footwear of Aran

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

   The Aran islanders wore slippers called 'Pampoodies' made of untanned cow-hide with the hairy side out, without heels or soles. They were described as the most unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe.

   Read the passage

   The dress of the islanders is said, by those who understand such things, to be picturesque ; but beyond all doubt their shoes, or rather slippers, made of untanned cow-hide with the hairy side out, and without heels and without soles, are the most unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe. These they call Pampoodies. The raw cow-hide, which is cut to fit

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 27

2. Sir John Darcy plunders the Aran Islands

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1334

   In 1334 the Aran Islands were plundered by Sir John Darcy, who sailed around the Irish coasts with a fleet of fifty-six ships. This was part of a campaign of coastal raids around Ireland.

   Read the passage

   A.D. 1334. In this year the islands were plundered by Sir John Darcy, who sailed with fifty-six ships around the Irish coasts.

   A.D. 1400. The rebellion of the Mayo and Clanrickarde Burkes in the province of Connaught, consequent on the murder, in 1333, of William De Burgh, Earl of Ulster and fifth Lord of Connaught, caused the overthrow for nearly two hundred years, of the English power in that province. The town of Galway, oscillating in its allegiance between the Crown and the Clanricardes, joined that powerful family against Henry IV., and in their revolt they were joined by the South Isles of Aran. Thereupon the King did by royal license permit certain persons to attack the rebels in the said island, which license is as follows : —

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 15

3. 1618 indenture preserving great trees on Aran

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1618

   An indenture dated 1618 records that Henry Lynch demised a moiety of the three Aran islands to William Anderson for a long term of years, explicitly excepting the 'great trees.' This document proves that large trees existed on the islands in the early seventeenth century.

   Read the passage

   Whether the groves of Aran were destroyed at the time of the destruction of the religion of Baal and of the introduction of Christianity, or in after-ages, it is impossible now to state. That great trees had existence in the islands in 1618 is certain, as appears by a partly hereinbefore recited indenture of that date, when Henry Lynch did demise a moiety of the three

   * I Chron. x. 12. f Deut. xvi. 21.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 40

4. Aran Islands pier and harbour limitations

   Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1886

   The north island of Aran had a pier, but vessels could only approach it near high water, and there was no means of improving it by extension. The absence of proper harbour accommodation was a major drawback to keeping first-class fishing vessels on the islands.

   Read the passage

   islands of Aran, but that is their only mode of fishing ; and they can only fish at short distances from the land, and cannot fish except in suitable weather. There is not a single first-class fishing vessel attached to the islands. The people are too poor to provide themselves with such, or obtain security for loans for such. There is one drawback to such vessels being kept, the want of proper harbour accommodation. There is a pier at the north island, but vessels cannot approach it unless near high water, and there is no means of improving it by extension. To make a good harbour it would be necessary to build a new pier into deep water ; then, if any quantity of fish is taken, the vessels must lose their time and bring them to Galway, thirty miles. If there were telegraphic communication between the island and mainland, the Galway steamer might be sent out when there was a large quantity of fish, or if there were a number of first-class vessels there, it might pay a steamer to attend them regularly as they do in the North Sea.

   " The Manx, Cornish, and French vessels, only go there in the early part of the year when the mackerel sets in. The Frenchmen slightly salt the fish on board, and take them to France and come back again for another cargo.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 34

5. Edward Lhuyd's botanical excursion to Aran

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1700

   In 1700, Edward Lnwyd spent several months on the Aran Islands inspecting the local flora. He subsequently produced a detailed report that was considered a marvel in its way.

   Read the passage

   A.D. 1700. An excursion was made to the islands in this year by one whose name is well known by those who prefer to contemplate the silent life of vegetation to the saddening spectacle of man at variance with his fellow-man. Edward Lnwyd spent many months inspecting the flora of the islands, and having done so, made his report upon them, which is said to be a marvel in its way.

   The fee of the islands had become vested in Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway, Esquire ; and he in 1717 demised the whole island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway, merchant, for thirty-one years, at the yearly rent of ^100, with liberty to cut and carry away as much straw from Straw Island as should be deemed necessary to thatch the houses on the island of Inisheer.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22

6. Glacial boulders on Aran carried from Oughterard district

   Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

   Passing icebergs dropped huge metamorphic rocks on the islands, none indigenous to Aran but carried from a district such as Oughterard. Some limestone boulders were also deposited from far-off limestone districts, now resting on weathered pedestal-like rocks.

   Read the passage

   Those who delight in geological speculations will find in these isles much to interest them. Here are deep furrows in the hard rocks, cut as they say by passing icebergs. One of these ice-cut furrows may be seen near the shore of Killeany Bay, about two hundred yards north-east of Lough Atalia, and a quarter of a mile from Kilronan. It is about seven yards long, nearly a yard wide, having a bearing of east by north. Though the icebergs have left their striae, and though their passage is marked by the deep furrows cut by them as they moved, nevertheless the patches of boulder drift on the surface are few ; but the bergs in their passage from the north district did drop some huge metamorphic rocks, not one of which is indigenous, so

   10 BOULDERS.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 6

7. Holly and ivy indigenous to Aran Islands

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

   Holly and ivy are indigenous to the soil of Aran. Holly was historically planted near dwelling houses to ward off spirits, and nine thornless holly leaves placed under a pillow were said to bring reliable dreams.

   Read the passage

   The Holly, or Holy, and the Ivy are indigenous in the soil of Aran. In idolatrous times holly was planted, according to Pliny, in the neighbourhood of dwelling-houses, to keep away spirits and all manner of enchantments. There can be no doubt that those who believe dreams to be other than the wanderings of the fancy can on any night have steady sensible dreams of a reliable nature if they bring home in their handkerchief (observing the strictest silence all the time) nine leaves of thornless holly and place the same * Hos. xiv. 9. f I Kings v. 10, n.

   96 HAWTHORN — BLACKTHORN.

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

8. Last male O'Brien of Aran line at Moyvanine and Clounties

   near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

   The last male of the O'Brien lords of Aran was John O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties. His daughter Sarah married Stephen Roche, from whom descends Thomas Redington Roche of Ryehill, Co. Galway. The lords of the Isles of Aran are now extinct.

   Read the passage

   field.* The O'Flaherties, an equally warlike race, dispossessed the lords of the isles, and in 1588, the very year of the Spanish Armada, Queen Elizabeth finally confiscated their territories, and now the name of O'Brien is forgotten in Aran. Not so on the mainland ; the O'Briens are still in Thomond and elsewhere, as, it is to be hoped, they will be for centuries yet to come. The lords of the Isles of Aran are extinct. The last of the male line was John O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties, whose daughter Sarah was married to Stephen Roche, from whom is descended the present Thomas Redington Roche, of Ryehill, Esq., J.P., Co. Galway. Amongst the families 01 this house still existing in Thomond, are the noble house of Inchiquin and the O'Briens of Ballynalacken, both of whom trace up, in an unbroken succession, to Bryan Boroimhe, who, like Leonidas at Thermopylae, fell fighting the foreign foe for the liberties of his country.

   The title of Inchiquin dates from the year 1543, but no title was required to ennoble those who were of the blood of kings, and were " nobler than the royalty that first ennobled them." The untitled aristocracy in England are often superior to the titled aristocracy, who cannot trace back farther than the Wars of the Roses. Now, the last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry VIII., who in return, by patent A.D. 1543, bestowed upon Murrough O'Brien, and upon the heirs male of his body, the title of Baron of Inchiquin. This Murrough had two sons, the elder Dermot, and the younger Donough, and Dermot on his father's death became Baron of Inchiquin ; and so the title descended from father to son until the year 1855, when James, the twelfth baron, who was also seventh Earl of Inchiquin (creation A.D. 1654) and third Marquis of Thomond (A.D. 1800), died without issue

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42

9. Trawling from Barna to the Aran Islands

   near Barna · street · Galway · 1886–1887

   Trawlers operated along the stretch of coast from Barna to the Aran Islands. Whether trawling damaged fish supply was disputed, and a public inquiry was held in Galway to investigate the question.

   Read the passage

   of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated ; the result of which investigation will form the subject of a special report. We shall only observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased in that period.

   " In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into." *

   Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Barna, trawlers worked this stretch of coast all the way out to the Aran Islands. Whether trawling injured the supply of fish was hotly disputed, and a court of public inquiry was held in Galway to investigate the whole question. Trawling had been prohibited in about half of Galway Bay for a number of years, and for about four years it was not followed at all, yet the evidence at public inquiries showed no improvement in the fisheries during that cessation. The Scotch Fishery Board had prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland, and Dublin Bay had banned it for nearly 44 years, raising the question whether its fisheries had actually increased in that time.

10. Medicinal herbs, dye plants, and monks' hops on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The flora of Aran includes medicinal herbs such as kenneen (fairy flax), tormentil root used in place of bark for tanning, and a plant yielding a fine blue dye used by islanders to colour their woollen cloths. Hops growing on the islands are said to have been introduced by the monks of the olden time.

    Read the passage

    wild thyme, with the golden leaf of the variegated ivy ; the crimson berries of the orchis and the red fruit of the wild strawberry forming a rich contrast to the delicate blue of the forget-me-not. Here, too, were the harebell and speedwell, fringed with the delicate frond of the maidenhair fern. In other clefts was the richness of the white and red clover, intermingled with a variety of medicinal herbs, amongst which were the wild garlic and the kenneen or fairy flax, much relied on for its medicinal qualities. In several of the localities in the islands the tormentil root, which serves in place of bark for tanning, and another plant which gives a fine blue dye and which the islanders use in colouring woollen cloths manufactured by them for their own wear, are to be found. The Aran isles contain many rare plants ; but, owing to the absence of turf bogs and scarcity of damp ground, there are neither marshy nor heathy plants, nor sedges, nor rushes. Even so, the flora of Aran is decidedly rich. On the hillsides are a great variety of flowering plants indigenous to the soil, which blossom at different times of the year. In the rocky dells there are several kinds of convolvulus of very rich florescence. The Madagascar periwinkle seems to be perfectly acclimatized and blossoms profusely, and we were happy to find an abundant growth of hops, the introduction of which is ascribed to the monks of the olden time.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 3

11. Sir Francis Head's 1852 inquiry into Claddagh and Aran morals

    Claddagh · electoral division · Galway · 1852

    Sir Francis Head, touring Ireland in 1852, visited the Galway police barrack and inquired about the morals of the Claddagh people. The officer reported no cases of illegitimate births among the Claddagh fish-women or the women of the three Aran islands, and noted a magistrate confirmed the same for Aran.

    Read the passage

    Answer. "Not a single case — not one; and not only have I never known of such a case, but I never heard any person attribute immorality to the fishwomen. I was on duty in the three islands of

    56 THEIR PURITY OF MORALS.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Claddagh, just across from Galway city. In 1852 Sir Francis Head visited the police barrack here and asked about the morals of the Claddagh fisherwomen and the women of the three Aran islands. The officer told him:

12. Sun-fish fishery value at Aran, 1762

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1762

    In May the pursuit of sun-fish gave employment to many at Aran. Evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762 showed that sun-fish of average size were worth from six to eight pounds each, indicating the economic importance of this fishery.

    Read the passage

    The fishery here begins in the spring, and great quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet, and mackerel are caught. The natives look much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints their expectations. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish gives employment to many, and it appears, from evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762, that sun-fish of average size were worth from jCs to £>*> each. Then all manner of shellfish are in abundance in those waters — multivalves, bivalves,

    F

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 30

13. Papal burial legend on Inishmore

    Innismore · street · Dublin

    The Leabhar-braec states that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran, a claim repeated in the Ordnance Survey volumes stored at the Royal Irish Academy.

    Read the passage

    On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, and in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Along here is a spot linked to an old legend about a pope's burial. The Leabhar-braec states that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. That same claim is repeated in the Ordnance Survey volumes, a work never printed and stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by fire. Those volumes on County Galway also hold the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the patents of James the First, and much learning on tithes, fisheries, abbeys, and monasteries, gathered through letters between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on the survey.

14. 1787 Irish Act granted deep sea fishery bounties

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1787–1887

    An Irish Act passed in 1787 under George III offered bounties for herring catches and dried fish, including 80 guineas for the greatest quantity of herrings imported. The author contrasts this with the difficulty Aran islanders faced obtaining any funds in 1887.

    Read the passage

    in 1887 no bonus of any kind can be obtained, in 1787 bonuses of many kinds could be obtained, and were obtained. In the 27th year of George III., A.D. 1787, an Irish Act was passed "for the encouragement of the fishery usually called the deep sea fishery." The marginal note of that section, a section too long to repeat, states that " bounties will be given, 80 guineas for the greatest quantity of herrings caught by the crew of any one vessel, and imported between the ist of June and the 3ist of December in any one year; 60 guineas for the next greatest quantity, 40 guineas for the next, and 20 guineas for the next, to be paid on the ist of January following." By the same Act bounties of four shillings a barrel were authorized to be given for herrings; and by another section, the fourteenth, three shillings and threepence by the hundredweight was allowed for all dried cod, ling, and other fish mentioned therein. Bounties, however, have long since been discouraged by political economists, and loans have long since been discouraged by other economists, and between those scientists money for the improvement of the Aran fishery was never so hard to be got at as at this present time.

    From the coastguard return it would appear that the Galway coastguard division is guarded by five coastguard stations, two of them being on the Aran islands, in which there has been an increase in 1886

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37

15. Charles II grants Aran Islands to Earl of Aran

    Innismore · street · Dublin · 1670

    In September 1670, Charles II granted the great island of Aran, measuring 2376 acres, to Richard, Earl of Aran, under the Act of Settlement. The land was held at an annual crown rent.

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    A.D. 1670. On the Qth of September, Charles II., by patent under the Act of Settlement, granted to Richard, Earl of Aran, the great island, containing 2376 acres statute measure, all situate in the half barony of Aran, county of Galway, at the annual rent of iSs. 5\d. crown rent, payable to the King and his successors. We may observe that the " crown rent " payable to the Crown for lands is the same rent as that which was formerly paid to the abbot or prior of the abbeys and priories confiscated from them under the statute of Henry VIII. — consequently lands held under the religious houses pay crown rent even to this day. Quit rent (Quietus Kedditus) in the province of Connaught, merely three halfpence an acre, was for the first time imposed at the Restoration, and amounts in the islands of Aran to £14 Ss. 4*i.

    A.D. 1687. A grant was made in this year by James II. of three- fourths of the tithes of Aran islands to the Most Reverend John Vesey, D.D., Protestant Lord Archbishop of Tuam, and his successors in the See. One could readily account for his Majesty's bestowing the tithes in question on the Catholic archbishop, but why he bestowed them on the Protestant line appears unaccountable; yet so it is stated in the appendix to the report of the Royal Commission

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22

16. Galway Union clerk's 1886 report on Aran islands health and rates

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886

    R.F. Mullery, clerk of the Galway Union, wrote in September 1886 that Aran's poor-rate was exceptionally low due to a relief grant, that no islanders were in the workhouse, and that there was no hospital on the islands despite the thirty-mile boat journey to Galway.

    Read the passage

    " The present poundage-rate, one shilling in the pound, is exceptionally low, owing to a grant 0^440, under the ' relief of the distressed Unions Act,' having been made to the islands. The average rate for the last ten years was three shillings in the pound. We never have islanders. There is no hospital, though there ought to be one, on the islands, as the sick poor are deterred from coming thirty miles by boat to the workhouse. The general health is exceptionally good, and very many live to a very old age. I have an opportunity of knowing this, as I have to examine the registry of deaths at the end of each quarter. The islanders as a rule are very intelligent, and quick at picking up anything they can either hear or see ; and, best of all, they are a moral people, a case of illegitimacy scarcely ever occurring in the islands, and then it is looked on as a crime of the blackest dye. "I have the honour, etc.,

    "ROBERT F. MULLERY."

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 26

17. Potato crop failure and fuel shortage on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886

    Rev. Killride reported that the potato crop on Aran was entirely gone and no fish had been taken. The people were expected to suffer terribly for want of fuel, and relief funds from Sir John Harrington and others were used for seed potatoes, turf, and assistance with emigration.

    Read the passage

    " What kept the poor rate down both last year and this was the amount of relief given out. Mr. Thompson, the agent, laid out ^140 on a road, and ^136 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington has given me upwards of £100 for this object, and this year he gave me ^80 or £90 for seed potatoes and £ 1 20 for relief and also money to assist emigration and to buy turf. The people will suffer terribly this year for

    /6 BARONESS BURDETT-COUTTS.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 35

18. St. John's Eve bonfires on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    On St. John's Eve in June, huge bonfires are still lighted near every village on Aran, a survival of the Druidic sacred fires kindled at each quarter day. The holy flame was believed essential to protect cattle from contagious disorders.

    Read the passage

    of old, men of renown, whose acts and deeds even now are celebrated in songs sung at the cottage firesides by minstrels to the strings of the wandering harper : on every lip are the exploits of Churcullen, of Gol, son of Morna, of Oscar, and of Ossian, and here are pointed out the places where they lived and died. We have also the immense " cromlechs " or altar flags, supported on perpendicular pillars, as we may venture to call the unhammered stones of about three feet in height, whilst under those " cromlechs " still rest the remains of heroes whose faithful dogs interred with them bear them company even in death. Here, too, no bad memory is retained of the sacred fires of Bal (another name for the sun), which were kept burning ; for the sun, and the moon, and the stars were by them reverenced ; but the sun of the Druids was supposed to be the most noble type of the Godhead — the most glorious object of the material creation. The mysterious stones, twelve in number, encircling the altars of sacrifice, sometimes said to be zodiacal rings, after the twelve signs of the zodiac, are here frequently to be found. The purifying ordeals the cattle were subject to at Aran until a very late period are yet there remembered. The sacred fires on the first day of each of the quarters blazed from cairn to cairn, amid prayers for the fruits of the earth, and even yet, on St. John's Eve in June, huge bonfires are lighted near every village through the

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 8

19. Terraced rock landscape of Aran from the Galway approach

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Aran landscape seen from the Galway side consists of bare rocky fields rising terrace over terrace—sometimes nine in number—from a soft sea beach to topmost cliffs hundreds of feet above the Atlantic on the south-west side. Though appearing barren, green herbage and rich botanical specimens flourish in the rock cleavages and fissures.

    Read the passage

    The Aran landscape as your vessel approaches from Galway is a peculiar one — peculiar to Aran. From the soft sea beach on the Galway side of the island, which varies in breadth from one to four miles across, slope fields of bare rocks terrace over terrace, sometimes nine in number, until they reach the topmost cliff on the south-west or ocean side hundreds of feet over the Atlantic. This terraced landscape has the appearance of being a barren and rocky wilderness ; but on closer inspection threads of fresh green herbages can be traced in the cleavages and deeply cut fissures of the rocks, and it is in those cleavages that the richest profusion of botanical specimens are to be found. The cleft upon which we stood was teeming with purple heather, foxglove, scarlet geranium, and

    6 THE FLORA OF ARAN.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 3

20. Bed of St. Coemhan on Inisheer

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    On Inisheer island, near a signal tower and an old castle on an eminence, is shown the 'bed of St. Coemhan,' much famed for its miraculous cures.

    Read the passage

    On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, and in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 14

21. Chough flocks unique to Aran among the United Kingdom

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    The chough, a handsome bird with glossy dark plumage and scarlet beak and legs, was said to be very numerous on the north island of Aran. The author claims it could no longer be found anywhere else in the United Kingdom except on Aran.

    Read the passage

    The crops are greatly devastated by caterpillars and grubs. The abundance of these pernicious insects is attributed to the great scarcity of sparrows and other small birds. Starlings are seldom seen ; but never a swallow. Sea gulls are numerous, and amongst the sea birds the osprey or sea eagle is a conspicuous object. Neither the raven, rook, crow, nor jackdaw visits the islands ; but there is a handsome bird which is very numerous, especially in the north island. The chough, which, in addition to plumage dark and glossy like that of the jackdaw, displays a beak and legs of bright scarlet It is said that this bird was formerly to be seen in flocks on various parts of the English coasts, and that now it cannot be found in any part of the United Kingdom except in Aran. Plovers, gannets, pigeons, duck, teal, and divers breed abundantly on the rocky ledges. The cliffs are the resort of countless puffins (Anas I^iuopsis) ; the

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 4

22. Former forests of oak and pine on Inishmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    Formerly there were forests of oak and pine on Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands. These forests must have been particularly suited to those suffering from diseases of the chest, and their former existence attests to a different landscape in earlier times.

    Read the passage

    THE extreme old age to which the inhabitants live in Aran proves the excellence of the air and of the food. Neither asthma, nor gout, nor rheumatism are known in portions of the islands. Formerly there were forests of oak and of pine in Inishmore, which must have been peculiarly suited to those who suffered from diseases of the chest

    The fishery here begins in the spring, and great quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet, and mackerel are caught. The natives look much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints their expectations. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish gives employment to many, and it appears, from evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762, that sun-fish of average size were worth from jCs to £>*> each. Then all manner of shellfish are in abundance in those waters — multivalves, bivalves,

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 30

23. Galway Bay trawling prohibition and its effects

    near Galway Bay · bay · Clare

    Trawling was prohibited in about half of Galway Bay for a number of years and was not practiced at all for roughly four years. According to public inquiry evidence, no improvement in the fisheries resulted during the cessation.

    Read the passage

    of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated ; the result of which investigation will form the subject of a special report. We shall only observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased in that period.

    " In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into." *

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37

24. Kilronan: capital of Inishmore with harbour and pier

    Kilronan · village · Galway · 1886

    Kilronan is the capital of Inishmore, described as a village with a good hotel. Its harbour is spacious but not suited for heavy-tonnage vessels; a pier of four or five hundred yards extends into the sea, where the mail-boat was moored during stormy weather in late July 1886.

    Read the passage

    The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of which was moored during the tempestuous days of the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread ; so that nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2

25. Kilronan village built on sixth limestone terrace

    Kilronan · village · Galway

    The village of Kilronan, the capital of Inishmore, was built on the sixth lowest of the descending limestone terraces overlooking Galway Bay. A shale bed under that terrace, over the seventh, contained the water supply for the glebe and upper village wells.

    Read the passage

    One of the most remarkable features in the conformation of Inishmore is, that between the overlapping strata or terraces of limestone, thirty-seven feet in thickness in some places and eighteen in others, are beds of shale. The highest of the terraces is 320 feet over high-water mark, on the perpendicular cliff overlooking the Atlantic. On the sixth lowest of these descending steps the village of Kilronan, the capital of the island, over against the Galway bay, is built, and under that terrace and over the seventh is a shale bed which contains the water supply for the glebe and upper village wells.

    Those who delight in geological speculations will find in these isles much to interest them. Here are deep furrows in the hard rocks, cut as they say by passing icebergs. One of these ice-cut furrows may be seen near the shore of Killeany Bay, about two hundred yards north-east of Lough Atalia, and a quarter of a mile from Kilronan. It is about seven yards long, nearly a yard wide, having a bearing of east by north. Though the icebergs have left their striae, and though their passage is marked by the deep furrows cut by them as they moved, nevertheless the patches of boulder drift on the surface are few ; but the bergs in their passage from the north district did drop some huge metamorphic rocks, not one of which is indigenous, so

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 6

26. Land division system of Aran Islands — townlands, quarters, croggeries

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The Aran islands were divided into townlands containing 4 or 6 quarters, each quarter containing 16 croggeries of 16 acres. Inishmore had 4 townlands totalling 6,144 acres; Inishmaan had 2 townlands with 6 quarters each; Innisheer had 1 townland with 4 quarters.

    Read the passage

    Witness said that "croggery" was a very ancient name for fourths. The entire islands were divided into townlands, which townlands contained 4 or 6 quarters each, every quarter containing 1 6 croggeries, and every croggery containing 16 acres. Inishmore thus con-

    t. qra. erof. «e.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 32

27. Military garrison established on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1691

    Following the surrender of Galway to William and Mary in 1691, a military garrison was dispatched to Aran. A barracks was built on the island where soldiers were stationed for many years.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1691. On the surrender of Galway to the arms of William and Mary, a garrison was sent to Aran, and a barrack therein built in which soldiers were for many years stationed.

    A.D. 1700. An excursion was made to the islands in this year by one whose name is well known by those who prefer to contemplate the silent life of vegetation to the saddening spectacle of man at variance with his fellow-man. Edward Lnwyd spent many months inspecting the flora of the islands, and having done so, made his report upon them, which is said to be a marvel in its way.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22

28. Oratory of St. Banon on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Oratory of St. Banon is noted as an exception among Aran's churches, which generally face the east. The text mentions a local tradition that churches faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day the foundation stone was laid.

    Read the passage

    Ruins everywhere meet the eye of the tourist in Aran — ruined abbeys, ruined monasteries, ruined nunneries, ruined cells, ruined churches, ruined schools, ruined forts, ruined forests, and ruined towers. With one exception the churches of Aran face the east. I heard somewhere, when on the islands, that that is not exactly true, but that they faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day that the foundation stone was laid. Be that as it may, there is the Oratory of St. Banon, which directly faces the

    RUINS.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 12

29. Pine and fir stumps numerous on Aran Islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    Stumps of pine and fir are numerous in the Aran Islands, indicating these trees once grew there. The fir tree was highly esteemed historically, used in building Solomon's temple and musical instruments in Israel.

    Read the passage

    Stumps of Pine and Fir are numerous in the Aran islands. The fir tree has been ever highly esteemed. It was amongst the materials employed in the building of Solomon's temple. Together with the pine it was held in such veneration in France, that St. Martin met with the strongest possible opposition when he proposed the destruction of the holy fir groves. The fir grew luxuriantly in Palestine ; and the Prophet Hosea saith that the Lord will make Ephraim flourish " like

    HOLLY— IVY. 95

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

30. Seven Churches and Teampul Brecain on Inishmore

    Innismore · street · Dublin

    At the north-western side of Inishmore, six miles from Kilronan, are the remains of the Seven Churches, one of which is Teampul Brecain—the church of St. Braccan, founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath.

    Read the passage

    are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel

    The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Inishmore are the remains of the Seven Churches, one of which is Teampul Brecain, the church of St. Braccan. He was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The churches are all small, never more than 60 feet in length, with a chancel at the eastern end where the altar was placed. Between the nave and chancel stood a semicircular chancel arch, and they were very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards. There is a legend in the islands about St. Braccan's bed, where many a devotee has prayed and had her prayers granted. The comparison is to Anna of old in the temple of Silo, when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel.

31. Mortgage of Aran to James Lynch Fitz Ambrose

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1570

    In 1570, Morchowe O'Brien conveyed the islands of Aran by mortgage to James Lynch Fitz Ambrose of Galway and his heirs, in consideration of a sum of money paid to him.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1570. Morchowe O'Brien, in consideration of a sum of money to him in hand paid, conveyed these

    * " The Straits of Dover " does not occur in the Annals, but the word which does so 'occur is construed by the commentator to be those "straits."

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 17

32. Teampull-Chiarain and its eastern window

    Innismore · street · Dublin

    Teampull-Chiarain on Inishmore is described as fifteen feet long, seventeen feet high to the gables, and eleven feet broad, with a beautiful eastern window and some crosses.

    Read the passage

    north. It is fifteen feet long, by seventeen feet high to the summit of the gables, by eleven feet in breadth. Close by are the remains of the hermitage, partly sunk in the rock, and of some cloghauns, or stone-roofed dwellings. How those solitaries, who for centuries held up the lamp of learning which shone across Europe during the long night which followed the breaking up of the Roman empire, could live in such comfortless cells, it is impossible to apprehend : circular chambers about twenty feet in exterior diameter, with a hole in the stone beehive roof for a chimney, and with an Egyptian-like doorway that a tall man could with difficulty enter. Teampull-Chiarain has a beautiful eastern window, with some crosses. Four miles from Kilronan are Kilmurvey and Teampul McDuach, a sixth-century church, consisting of nave and choir in beautiful preservation. There are windows there of remote antiquity, with lintels formed of two leaning stones; and there is a semicircular window of great beauty of a more recent date. There is a stone leaning against the eastern gable with a rudely cut opening which seems to have been the head of the more ancient window. The narrow doorway is like the entrance to an Egyptian tomb. Another small church, Teampul-beg, together with a holy well and monastic enclosure, is worthy of inspection. At the north-western side of the Inishmore island, and six miles from Kilronan,

    CHILDLESS MARRIAGES. 2/

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on this street is Teampull-Chiarain, a small church fifteen feet long, eleven feet broad, and seventeen feet high to the top of its gables. It has a beautiful eastern window and some crosses close by. Nearby are the remains of a hermitage partly sunk into the rock, and some cloghauns, stone-roofed dwellings. These were the cells of solitaries who, for centuries, held up the lamp of learning that shone across Europe during the long night that followed the breaking up of the Roman empire. The circular chambers were about twenty feet across on the outside, with a hole in the stone beehive roof serving as a chimney, and a doorway so low that a tall man could scarcely enter.

33. Aran Islands estate rental history from 1794 to 1885

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1794–1885

    The estate agent, Mr. Thompson of Clonskea Castle, testified that all rentals and leases from 1794 were in his custody. The rental rose from £2,143 in 1800 to £2,668 in 1812, then declined to £2,067 by 1885 across 11,288 acres.

    Read the passage

    Mr. Thompson, of Clonskea Castle, county Dublin, sworn. Is the agent on the estate ; succeeded his father, who had been agent for many years. Witness has in his custody all the rentals and leases of the estate from 1794. "The rental in 1800 was £2 143, as fixed by valuation in that year. In 1812 the rental was ^2668 ; in 1827, ^2145 ioj. *d. ; in 1846, ^1937 17*. id. ; in 1881,^2067 > in |885, ^2067 ; the acreage of the islands being 11,288 acres. The lands are in the hands of tenants, with the exception of two croggeries which are in my occupation."

    The learned chairman, Mr. Crean, B.L., inquired what a croggery meant.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 32

34. St. Coemhan and Aran-Coemhan on Inisheer

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    The eastern island (Inisheer) was anciently called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St. Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was renowned among the saints of Aran and was believed to have frequently abated storms after being piously invoked.

    Read the passage

    are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel

    The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

35. Former tree coverage on Aran Islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1836–1886

    Rev. William Killride, rector of Aran, reported that many places on the island were once covered with trees. About fifty years previously, a large portion of the island grew trees, especially hazel, reaching 20 to 26 feet in height. He had great difficulty preserving his own planted grove from destruction.

    Read the passage

    has seldom more than four months' labour in the year ; so that it is a necessity on his part to get gardens on hire. Until last year or the year before he got from 1 s. to i s. 6d. in spring, with his diet ; at harvest, about is. with his diet, three meals in the day, bread and tea for breakfast, etc. When there is a hurry in seaweeding time he used to get 2$. 6d. and diet, but this lasts only a week twice in the year." The writer then speaks of several other matters connected with the island and about the possibility of growing timber there. " My little grove was planted by myself. I find the greatest difficulty in preserving it, seven trees being destroyed this year. Then I planted every nook and cranny with evergreens ; but they were plucked up three several times. I got sick of this thing. Many places in the island were covered with trees. In fact, fifty years ago or so, I have been informed that a large portion of the island grew trees, especially hazel, from 20 to 26 feet in height

    " What kept the poor rate down both last year and this was the amount of relief given out. Mr. Thompson, the agent, laid out ^140 on a road, and ^136 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington has given me upwards of £100 for this object, and this year he gave me ^80 or £90 for seed potatoes and £ 1 20 for relief and also money to assist emigration and to buy turf. The people will suffer terribly this year for

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 35

36. Ruined churches and fortresses of Inishmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    Inishmore contains numerous named ruins including the fortresses Dun Aengus, Dun Eochla, and Dubh Chathair (the black fort), and the ruins of churches including Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group of cells, Tempul Brecan and Cross, Tempul Beg Mac Dara, Tempul More Mac Dara, Tempul Assurniadhe, Tempul-an-cheathrair-Aluin, St. Enda, and the seven churches.

    Read the passage

    Of Inishmore, or the great island, Kilronan is the capital — a village with a good hotel. Killeany was the ancient capital, formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of lar Connaught. The other places of note are Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun . Kngus, Dun Eochla, Dubh Chathair or the black fort. So also on that island are the ruins of the churches of Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group

    4 THE ARAN MAIL-BOAT.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2

37. Lease of Inisheer to Andrew French

    Inisheer · townland · Galway · 1717

    In 1717, Edmund Fitzpatrick leased the entire island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway for 31 years at £100 per year. The lease included rights to cut thatching straw from Straw Island for houses on Inisheer.

    Read the passage

    The fee of the islands had become vested in Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway, Esquire ; and he in 1717 demised the whole island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway, merchant, for thirty-one years, at the yearly rent of ^100, with liberty to cut and carry away as much straw from Straw Island as should be deemed necessary to thatch the houses on the island of Inisheer.

    A.D. 1746. The case of The Mayor of Galway v. Digby, conversant as it was with the royalties of the islands of Aran, caused great excitement in the town during the summer assizes of the year. The action was tried before Mr. Justice Caufield. Mr. Staunton, Mr. French, and another, appeared as counsel for the

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22

38. Semicircular chancel arch in Tuam cathedral

    Tuam · town · Galway

    The Protestant cathedral of Tuam contains a very beautiful specimen of a semicircular chancel arch of the type found between nave and chancel in the Aran churches.

    Read the passage

    The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.

    28 ARAN CHURCHES.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

39. Dubh Cahm, the Black Fort on Inishmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1–100

    On the south-west side of Inishmore stands Dubh Cahm, or 'the black fort,' a fortress of very rude masonry and enormous thickness overlooking the cliffs. It is one of the remaining Cyclopean structures on the island.

    Read the passage

    these islands are many more fortresses. There is, on the north side of Inishmore, Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort, measuring 92 feet across ; and on the south-west side, Dubh Cahn, " the black fort," a Dun or fortress of very rude masonry, of enormous thickness, and overlooking the cliffs.

    The Christian remains of the islands are many, and

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

40. Dublin Bay trawling prohibition of forty-four years

    near Dublin Bay · bay · Dublin

    Trawling had been prohibited in Dublin Bay for nearly forty-four years, raising the question of whether the bay's fisheries actually increased during that long prohibition period.

    Read the passage

    of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated ; the result of which investigation will form the subject of a special report. We shall only observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased in that period.

    " In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into." *

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37

41. Dun Onaght, a Firbolgic fort on Inishmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1–100

    On the north side of Inishmore stands Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort measuring 92 feet across. It is one of several ancient fortresses surviving on the largest Aran island.

    Read the passage

    these islands are many more fortresses. There is, on the north side of Inishmore, Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort, measuring 92 feet across ; and on the south-west side, Dubh Cahn, " the black fort," a Dun or fortress of very rude masonry, of enormous thickness, and overlooking the cliffs.

    The Christian remains of the islands are many, and

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

42. Earldom of Aran created for Richard Butler

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1662–1693

    In 1662, Richard Butler, son of the first Duke of Ormonde, was created Earl of Aran. The title expired on his death without issue and was revived in 1693 for Lord Charles Butler.

    Read the passage

    In the peerage we find that the earldom of Aran has been twice bestowed on families bearing different names. First in 1662, when Richard Butler (son of James, the twelfth Earl and first Duke of Ormonde) was created Earl of Aran. The honours of this nobleman having expired on his death without issue, the earldom was revived in 1693 in favour of Lord

    £

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 24

43. Fortresses and villages of Inishmaan

    Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway

    The middle island of Inishmaan contains the ruins of two fortresses, Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, along with five villages. The island is two and a half miles in length.

    Read the passage

    On the middle island of Inishmaan are the ruins of the fortresses of Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, and the villages, five in number. On the eastern island of Inisheer are St. Gobnet's chapel, Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, Trawkera, near which there is a lake a quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, which might be converted into a useful harbour by cutting an entrance into it through the rocky shore.

    The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of which was moored during the tempestuous days of the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread ; so that nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2

44. St. Gobnet's chapel and sites of Inisheer

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    The eastern island of Inisheer contains St. Gobnet's chapel along with the settlements of Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, and Trawkera. Near Trawkera is a deep lake a quarter mile in circumference that could potentially be converted into a harbour by cutting an entrance through the rocky shore.

    Read the passage

    On the middle island of Inishmaan are the ruins of the fortresses of Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, and the villages, five in number. On the eastern island of Inisheer are St. Gobnet's chapel, Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, Trawkera, near which there is a lake a quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, which might be converted into a useful harbour by cutting an entrance into it through the rocky shore.

    The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of which was moored during the tempestuous days of the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread ; so that nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2

45. Teampul-saght-Machree on Inishmaan

    near Illaunane · townland · Galway

    The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is described as an object of interest on the middle island (Inishmaan).

    Read the passage

    are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel

    The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

46. Sir Roebuck Lynch becomes proprietor of Aran islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1618

    After Sir John Rawson's grant, the property and inheritance of the islands became vested in Sir Roebuck Lynch of Galway, likely through a mortgage foreclosure. In 1618, Henry Lynch demised a moiety of the three islands to William Anderson of Aran for a long term of years at an annual rent.

    Read the passage

    A.D. 1618. "Indenture of June 2oth, between Henry Lynch, son and heir of Roebuck Lynch, of Galway, deceased, of the one part, and William Anderson, of Aran, in said county, of the other, whereby he, the said Henry Lynch, for and in consideration of a sum of j£$o of English currency to him paid, did thereby demise and assign all that and those, a moiety of the said three islands to him, the said William Anderson, his executors, administrators, and assigns, for a long term of years, excepting thereout" what must have then been in the islands, "great trees, mines, and minerals, and hawks, at an annual rent of ^3 Irish, and a proportion of port corn, as therein is set forth." A.D. 1641. The clan Tiege O'Briens still claimed the islands as their legitimate inheritance, and, taking

    42 ARCHBISHOP O'QUEELY.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 20

47. Hemp cultivation and divination customs

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The author notes hemp was not grown to any great extent in Aran, though sowing hemp seed on All Hallows' Eve or St. John's Night as a love divination ritual was practiced in some parts of Ireland. The ritual involved scattering seed while invoking the name of one's future love.

    Read the passage

    Hemp. — I don't remember seeing hemp growing in Aran to any great extent. Sowing the seed of hemp

    * 2 Kings xvii. 6.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

48. Killeany: ancient capital and seat of Iar Connaught lords

    Killeany · townland · Galway

    Killeany was the ancient capital of Inishmore and formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of Iar Connaught, before Kilronan became the principal village.

    Read the passage

    Of Inishmore, or the great island, Kilronan is the capital — a village with a good hotel. Killeany was the ancient capital, formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of lar Connaught. The other places of note are Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun . Kngus, Dun Eochla, Dubh Chathair or the black fort. So also on that island are the ruins of the churches of Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group

    4 THE ARAN MAIL-BOAT.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2

49. New pier construction on Inishmaan

    Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886

    Under the Poor Relief Ireland Act of 1886, a grant of £20,000 was expended on works in North and South Aran. The Board of Works was building a pier on the middle island of Aran.

    Read the passage

    " I have been engaged all the summer, in conjunction with Colonel Fraser and Mr. Mahony, in expending a grant of ^20,000 in the scheduled unions under the provisions of the Poor Relief Ireland Act, 1886. We have carried out several works in North and South Aran. The Board of Works are building a pier in the middle island,

    " Yours truly,

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 34

50. St. Brendan's visit to Aran before his Atlantic voyage

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    St. Brendan visited Aran to seek the blessing and knowledge of St. Enda before departing on his legendary voyage across the Atlantic. The poet Denis Florence MacCarthy described the visit, portraying Brendan sailing from shallow sandy Leigh and finding the saint waiting on the shore beneath Binn-Aite's rocky height.

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    He led me to his home beside the wave,

    Where with his monks the pious father dwelled,

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

51. Twenty-one national monuments on Aran

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    There are twenty-one monuments, both pre-Christian and Christian, on the Aran islands, vested in the Secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland to be preserved as national monuments. Ruins of abbeys, monasteries, nunneries, cells, churches, schools, forts, forests, and towers are everywhere visible to the tourist.

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    Of the monuments, as well pre-Christian as Christian, in these islands, there are twenty-one, vested in the secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland, to be preserved as national monuments, (See next page.)

    Ruins everywhere meet the eye of the tourist in Aran — ruined abbeys, ruined monasteries, ruined nunneries, ruined cells, ruined churches, ruined schools, ruined forts, ruined forests, and ruined towers. With one exception the churches of Aran face the east. I heard somewhere, when on the islands, that that is not exactly true, but that they faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day that the foundation stone was laid. Be that as it may, there is the Oratory of St. Banon, which directly faces the

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 12

52. Lighthouse on Inisheer

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    On the south-west point of Inisheer is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height.

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    On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, and in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 14

53. Aran Islands fishery — open row boats and curraghs

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886

    A letter from Sir Thomas F. Brady, Inspector of Irish Fisheries, noted a large number of open row boats and curraghs on the three Aran islands. The author argued that the islanders needed schools for navigation, fishery science, and related trades rather than mere rent reduction.

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    " I have your note here. There is a large number of open row boats and curraghs on the three

    * Report of Inspectors of Irish Fisheries for 1887, p. 10.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 33

54. Creggan-keel fort on Inisheer

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    Inisheer, the easternmost of the Aran Islands, contains a circular fortification called Creggan-keel. The island also holds Furmena Castle, a later stronghold of the O'Briens, lords of the islands of Aran.

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    Inisheer, the eastern island, contains a circular Dun called Creggan-keel. Furmena Castle, also on this island, was, in later times, the stronghold of the O'Briens — lords of the islands of Aran — and upon

    c

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

55. Furmena Castle, O'Brien stronghold on Inisheer

    Inisheer · townland · Galway

    Furmena Castle on Inisheer was the stronghold of the O'Briens, who were lords of the islands of Aran in later times. It represents the medieval lordship of the islands following the earlier pagan fortifications.

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    Inisheer, the eastern island, contains a circular Dun called Creggan-keel. Furmena Castle, also on this island, was, in later times, the stronghold of the O'Briens — lords of the islands of Aran — and upon

    c

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala

56. Lease of Inisheer to William MacNamara of Doolin, 1754

    Inisheer · townland · Galway · 1754

    In 1754, John Digby demised (leased) the island of Inisheer to William MacNamara of Doolin, establishing a landlord-tenant relationship over one of the Aran Islands in the mid-eighteenth century.

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    A.D. 1754. John Digby demised the island of Inisheer to William MacNamara of Doolin, county

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 23

57. Solitary bittern on the Galway side of Aran

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The solitary bittern, known in Irish as the Boonaun-Laynagh, frequented the low-lying ground on the Galway side of the island. Hares and rabbits were also very plentiful there.

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    popular belief being that they spring from the driftwood* Their flesh supplies a rich lamp oil, and their feathers fetch a high price in the London markets. The capture ef these birds is a dangerous occupation for the cragsmen, who descend from the cliffs by means of a rope to the haunts of the puffin, and having spent the night in the dangerous occupation, ensnaring and killing them as they sleep on the rocky ledges, they are hauled up in the morning, having realized ten or twelve shillings during the night. In the summer of 1816, two unfortunate fellows engaged in this frightful occupation missed their footing, and falling, were dashed to pieces on the rocks below. The solitary bittern, called in Irish the Boonaun-Laynagh, frequents the low-lying ground on the Galway side of the island, and hares and rabbits are very plentiful also. On the barren sheets of rocks the peasants (denominated lazy and idle, by lazy and idle writers and speakers) have with tireless toil walled in and made numberless gardens in which potatoes mealy and dry are grown. The meteorological aspirations of the Aran peasant are for rain, diametrically the opposite of what their brethren on the mainland desire. A dry summer gives to Aran a parched and burnt-up hue, when the cattle faint and die if not removed to the mainland. Tanks, such as they have in Ceylon, are sadly wanting * Denis Florence McCarthy's Poems, p. 87 note.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 5

58. Dame Alice Kettler witchcraft trial in Kilkenny

    Kilkenny · city · Kilkenny · 1324

    In 1324, Dame Alice Kettler was tried for witchcraft in Kilkenny. The evidence referenced ashen sticks as dreadful instruments in matters of witchcraft, upon which witches were said to ride through the night air.

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    The Ash is "the Venus of the forest" On ashen sticks (dreadful in matters of witchcraft, as appears

    ASH — ROWAN TREE. 93

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41

59. Fort Mothar Dun and Fort of Conor on Inishmaan

    near Illaunane · townland · Galway

    On Inishmaan are listed two forts: Fort Mothar Dun and the Fort of Conor, among the monuments of the middle island.

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    Fort Mothar Dun. Fort of Conor.

    RuinsofChurch — Kill Canonagh Ruins of Church — Tempiil Caireach Derquin.

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13

60. Dubh Chathair (Black Fort) on Inishmore

    Doocaher · enclosure · Galway

    Dubh Chathair, or the Black Fort, is listed among the monuments of the parish of Killeaney on Inishmore.

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    Dubh Chathair or the Black Fort.

    Ruins of Church — Tempiil Be-

    Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13