Read the copy these stories were drawn from on the Internet Archive.
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Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.
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Kelp industry on Aran Islands peaked in 1866
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1866–1886
Seaweed was highly valuable on the Aran islands: in 1866, kelp made on the islands realized £2,577 at £5 per ton. By the 1880s, no kelp was made owing to the fall in prices. Tenants also took manure and seaweed from the seashore free of charge.
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tained 4 townlands and 4 x 6 x 16 x 16 = 6144 acres. On Inishmaan there are two townlands, which contain 6 quarters each. On Innisheer there is only one townland containing 4 quarters. The tenants have manure and seaweed from the sea shore free of charge. The seaweed was very valuable in 1866, when the kelp made on the islands realized ^2577,
7O LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 32
As the companion tells it
On the Aran Islands, seaweed mattered. Tenants took manure and seaweed from the seashore free of charge. In 1866 the kelp made on the islands realised 2,577 pounds at 5 pounds per ton. It was the peak. By the 1880s no kelp was made at all, owing to the fall in prices.
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Pampoodies: traditional raw cow-hide footwear of Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
The Aran islanders wore slippers called 'Pampoodies' made of untanned cow-hide with the hairy side out, without heels or soles. They were described as the most unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe.
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The dress of the islanders is said, by those who understand such things, to be picturesque ; but beyond all doubt their shoes, or rather slippers, made of untanned cow-hide with the hairy side out, and without heels and without soles, are the most unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe. These they call Pampoodies. The raw cow-hide, which is cut to fit
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 27
As the companion tells it
On the Aran Islands, the islanders wore slippers made of untanned cow-hide, hairy side out, with no heels and no soles. They called them Pampoodies. People who understand dress found the islanders picturesque, but their footwear was called the most unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe. The raw hide was cut to fit.
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Sir John Darcy plunders the Aran Islands
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1334
In 1334 the Aran Islands were plundered by Sir John Darcy, who sailed around the Irish coasts with a fleet of fifty-six ships. This was part of a campaign of coastal raids around Ireland.
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A.D. 1334. In this year the islands were plundered by Sir John Darcy, who sailed with fifty-six ships around the Irish coasts.
A.D. 1400. The rebellion of the Mayo and Clanrickarde Burkes in the province of Connaught, consequent on the murder, in 1333, of William De Burgh, Earl of Ulster and fifth Lord of Connaught, caused the overthrow for nearly two hundred years, of the English power in that province. The town of Galway, oscillating in its allegiance between the Crown and the Clanricardes, joined that powerful family against Henry IV., and in their revolt they were joined by the South Isles of Aran. Thereupon the King did by royal license permit certain persons to attack the rebels in the said island, which license is as follows : —
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 15
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands were plundered in 1334 by Sir John Darcy. He sailed with 56 ships around the Irish coasts. Later, in 1400, the islands were caught in a wider rebellion. The Mayo and Clanrickarde Burkes rose in Connaught after the murder in 1333 of William De Burgh, Earl of Ulster and fifth Lord of Connaught. English power in the province was overthrown for nearly 200 years. Galway wavered in its allegiance between the Crown and the Clanricardes, then joined that family against Henry IV. The South Isles of Aran joined the revolt. Thereupon the King granted royal license to certain persons to attack the rebels in the island.
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1618 indenture preserving great trees on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1618
An indenture dated 1618 records that Henry Lynch demised a moiety of the three Aran islands to William Anderson for a long term of years, explicitly excepting the 'great trees.' This document proves that large trees existed on the islands in the early seventeenth century.
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Whether the groves of Aran were destroyed at the time of the destruction of the religion of Baal and of the introduction of Christianity, or in after-ages, it is impossible now to state. That great trees had existence in the islands in 1618 is certain, as appears by a partly hereinbefore recited indenture of that date, when Henry Lynch did demise a moiety of the three
* I Chron. x. 12. f Deut. xvi. 21.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 40
As the companion tells it
In 1618, Henry Lynch demised a moiety of the three Aran islands to William Anderson for a long term of years. The indenture explicitly excepted the great trees. So large trees stood on the islands then. Whether the groves were destroyed when the religion of Baal fell and Christianity came, or in later ages, the record does not say.
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Aran Islands pier and harbour limitations
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1886
The north island of Aran had a pier, but vessels could only approach it near high water, and there was no means of improving it by extension. The absence of proper harbour accommodation was a major drawback to keeping first-class fishing vessels on the islands.
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islands of Aran, but that is their only mode of fishing ; and they can only fish at short distances from the land, and cannot fish except in suitable weather. There is not a single first-class fishing vessel attached to the islands. The people are too poor to provide themselves with such, or obtain security for loans for such. There is one drawback to such vessels being kept, the want of proper harbour accommodation. There is a pier at the north island, but vessels cannot approach it unless near high water, and there is no means of improving it by extension. To make a good harbour it would be necessary to build a new pier into deep water ; then, if any quantity of fish is taken, the vessels must lose their time and bring them to Galway, thirty miles. If there were telegraphic communication between the island and mainland, the Galway steamer might be sent out when there was a large quantity of fish, or if there were a number of first-class vessels there, it might pay a steamer to attend them regularly as they do in the North Sea.
" The Manx, Cornish, and French vessels, only go there in the early part of the year when the mackerel sets in. The Frenchmen slightly salt the fish on board, and take them to France and come back again for another cargo.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 34
As the companion tells it
Inishmore is the place you are passing through or near, and in 1886 its fishing was limited by what the islands lacked. The people fished only at short distances from the land, and only in suitable weather. There was not a single first-class fishing vessel attached to the islands. The people were too poor to provide themselves with such, or to obtain security for loans for such. There was one drawback above all to such vessels being kept. The want of proper harbour accommodation. There was a pier at the north island, but vessels could not approach it unless near high water, and there was no means of improving it by extension. To make a good harbour it would be necessary to build a new pier into deep water. Then, if any quantity of fish was taken, the vessels must lose their time and bring them to Galway, thirty miles away. If there were telegraphic communication between the island and the mainland, the Galway steamer might be sent out when there was a large quantity of fish. Or if there were a number of first-class vessels there, it might pay a steamer to attend them regularly, as they do in the North Sea. The Manx, Cornish, and French vessels only went there in the early part of the year when the mackerel sets in. The Frenchmen slightly salted the fish on board, and took them to France and came back again for another cargo.
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Edward Lhuyd's botanical excursion to Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1700
In 1700, Edward Lnwyd spent several months on the Aran Islands inspecting the local flora. He subsequently produced a detailed report that was considered a marvel in its way.
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A.D. 1700. An excursion was made to the islands in this year by one whose name is well known by those who prefer to contemplate the silent life of vegetation to the saddening spectacle of man at variance with his fellow-man. Edward Lnwyd spent many months inspecting the flora of the islands, and having done so, made his report upon them, which is said to be a marvel in its way.
The fee of the islands had become vested in Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway, Esquire ; and he in 1717 demised the whole island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway, merchant, for thirty-one years, at the yearly rent of ^100, with liberty to cut and carry away as much straw from Straw Island as should be deemed necessary to thatch the houses on the island of Inisheer.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22
As the companion tells it
Out on the Aran Islands, in 1700, a man came to look at plants. Edward Lhuyd spent many months here inspecting the flora, and what he found he wrote up in a report said to be a marvel in its way. He was drawn to the silent life of vegetation rather than the spectacle of man at odds with his fellow man. After his work was done, the islands passed into other hands. The fee had become vested in Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway, and in 1717 he demised the whole island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway, merchant, for 31 years. The yearly rent was 100, with liberty to cut and carry away as much straw from Straw Island as should be deemed necessary to thatch the houses on Inisheer.
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Glacial boulders on Aran carried from Oughterard district
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway
Passing icebergs dropped huge metamorphic rocks on the islands, none indigenous to Aran but carried from a district such as Oughterard. Some limestone boulders were also deposited from far-off limestone districts, now resting on weathered pedestal-like rocks.
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Those who delight in geological speculations will find in these isles much to interest them. Here are deep furrows in the hard rocks, cut as they say by passing icebergs. One of these ice-cut furrows may be seen near the shore of Killeany Bay, about two hundred yards north-east of Lough Atalia, and a quarter of a mile from Kilronan. It is about seven yards long, nearly a yard wide, having a bearing of east by north. Though the icebergs have left their striae, and though their passage is marked by the deep furrows cut by them as they moved, nevertheless the patches of boulder drift on the surface are few ; but the bergs in their passage from the north district did drop some huge metamorphic rocks, not one of which is indigenous, so
10 BOULDERS.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 6
As the companion tells it
Inishmore holds traces of a colder time. Passing icebergs cut deep furrows into the hard rock here. One furrow near the shore of Killeany Bay, about 200 yards north-east of Lough Atalia and a quarter of a mile from Kilronan, runs about 7 yards long and nearly a yard wide, bearing east by north. The icebergs left their striae and their marks as they moved, though patches of boulder drift on the surface are few. The bergs in their passage from the north district dropped huge metamorphic rocks, not one of which is indigenous to these islands. Some limestone boulders were also carried from far-off limestone districts and now rest on weathered pedestal-like rocks. These stones have no origin here. They were brought by ice, and left behind when it passed.
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Holly and ivy indigenous to Aran Islands
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
Holly and ivy are indigenous to the soil of Aran. Holly was historically planted near dwelling houses to ward off spirits, and nine thornless holly leaves placed under a pillow were said to bring reliable dreams.
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The Holly, or Holy, and the Ivy are indigenous in the soil of Aran. In idolatrous times holly was planted, according to Pliny, in the neighbourhood of dwelling-houses, to keep away spirits and all manner of enchantments. There can be no doubt that those who believe dreams to be other than the wanderings of the fancy can on any night have steady sensible dreams of a reliable nature if they bring home in their handkerchief (observing the strictest silence all the time) nine leaves of thornless holly and place the same * Hos. xiv. 9. f I Kings v. 10, n.
96 HAWTHORN — BLACKTHORN.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41
As the companion tells it
Holly and ivy grow native in the soil of the Aran Islands. In idolatrous times, according to Pliny, holly was planted near dwelling houses to keep away spirits and all manner of enchantments. Those who believe dreams to be more than the wanderings of the fancy can have steady, sensible dreams of a reliable nature, if they bring home 9 leaves of thornless holly in their handkerchief, observing the strictest silence all the while, and place the same under their pillow.
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Last male O'Brien of Aran line at Moyvanine and Clounties
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
The last male of the O'Brien lords of Aran was John O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties. His daughter Sarah married Stephen Roche, from whom descends Thomas Redington Roche of Ryehill, Co. Galway. The lords of the Isles of Aran are now extinct.
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field.* The O'Flaherties, an equally warlike race, dispossessed the lords of the isles, and in 1588, the very year of the Spanish Armada, Queen Elizabeth finally confiscated their territories, and now the name of O'Brien is forgotten in Aran. Not so on the mainland ; the O'Briens are still in Thomond and elsewhere, as, it is to be hoped, they will be for centuries yet to come. The lords of the Isles of Aran are extinct. The last of the male line was John O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties, whose daughter Sarah was married to Stephen Roche, from whom is descended the present Thomas Redington Roche, of Ryehill, Esq., J.P., Co. Galway. Amongst the families 01 this house still existing in Thomond, are the noble house of Inchiquin and the O'Briens of Ballynalacken, both of whom trace up, in an unbroken succession, to Bryan Boroimhe, who, like Leonidas at Thermopylae, fell fighting the foreign foe for the liberties of his country.
The title of Inchiquin dates from the year 1543, but no title was required to ennoble those who were of the blood of kings, and were " nobler than the royalty that first ennobled them." The untitled aristocracy in England are often superior to the titled aristocracy, who cannot trace back farther than the Wars of the Roses. Now, the last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry VIII., who in return, by patent A.D. 1543, bestowed upon Murrough O'Brien, and upon the heirs male of his body, the title of Baron of Inchiquin. This Murrough had two sons, the elder Dermot, and the younger Donough, and Dermot on his father's death became Baron of Inchiquin ; and so the title descended from father to son until the year 1855, when James, the twelfth baron, who was also seventh Earl of Inchiquin (creation A.D. 1654) and third Marquis of Thomond (A.D. 1800), died without issue
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands were once ruled by the O'Briens, lords of these isles. The O'Flaherties, an equally warlike race, dispossessed them, and in 1588, the very year of the Spanish Armada, Queen Elizabeth finally confiscated their territories. Now the name of O'Brien is forgotten here. Not so on the mainland. The O'Briens are still in Thomond and elsewhere. The lords of the Isles of Aran are extinct. The last of the male line was John O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties. His daughter Sarah married Stephen Roche, and from them is descended Thomas Redington Roche of Ryehill, County Galway. Among the families of this house still in Thomond are the noble house of Inchiquin and the O'Briens of Ballynalacken. Both trace back in unbroken succession to Bryan Boroimhe, who, like Leonidas at Thermopylae, fell fighting the foreign foe for the liberties of his country. The title of Inchiquin dates from 1543. The last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry the Eighth, who in return, by patent in 1543, bestowed upon Murrough O'Brien, and upon the heirs male of his body, the title of Baron of Inchiquin. Murrough had two sons, the elder Dermot and the younger Donough. Dermot on his father's death became Baron of Inchiquin, and the title descended from father to son until 1855, when James, the twelfth baron, who was also seventh Earl of Inchiquin and third Marquis of Thomond, died without issue.
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Trawling from Barna to the Aran Islands
near Barna · street · Galway · 1886–1887
Trawlers operated along the stretch of coast from Barna to the Aran Islands. Whether trawling damaged fish supply was disputed, and a public inquiry was held in Galway to investigate the question.
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of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated ; the result of which investigation will form the subject of a special report. We shall only observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased in that period.
" In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into." *
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37
As the companion tells it
Somewhere about Barna, trawlers worked this stretch of coast all the way out to the Aran Islands. Whether trawling injured the supply of fish was hotly disputed, and a court of public inquiry was held in Galway to investigate the whole question. Trawling had been prohibited in about half of Galway Bay for a number of years, and for about four years it was not followed at all, yet the evidence at public inquiries showed no improvement in the fisheries during that cessation. The Scotch Fishery Board had prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland, and Dublin Bay had banned it for nearly 44 years, raising the question whether its fisheries had actually increased in that time.
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Medicinal herbs, dye plants, and monks' hops on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
The flora of Aran includes medicinal herbs such as kenneen (fairy flax), tormentil root used in place of bark for tanning, and a plant yielding a fine blue dye used by islanders to colour their woollen cloths. Hops growing on the islands are said to have been introduced by the monks of the olden time.
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wild thyme, with the golden leaf of the variegated ivy ; the crimson berries of the orchis and the red fruit of the wild strawberry forming a rich contrast to the delicate blue of the forget-me-not. Here, too, were the harebell and speedwell, fringed with the delicate frond of the maidenhair fern. In other clefts was the richness of the white and red clover, intermingled with a variety of medicinal herbs, amongst which were the wild garlic and the kenneen or fairy flax, much relied on for its medicinal qualities. In several of the localities in the islands the tormentil root, which serves in place of bark for tanning, and another plant which gives a fine blue dye and which the islanders use in colouring woollen cloths manufactured by them for their own wear, are to be found. The Aran isles contain many rare plants ; but, owing to the absence of turf bogs and scarcity of damp ground, there are neither marshy nor heathy plants, nor sedges, nor rushes. Even so, the flora of Aran is decidedly rich. On the hillsides are a great variety of flowering plants indigenous to the soil, which blossom at different times of the year. In the rocky dells there are several kinds of convolvulus of very rich florescence. The Madagascar periwinkle seems to be perfectly acclimatized and blossoms profusely, and we were happy to find an abundant growth of hops, the introduction of which is ascribed to the monks of the olden time.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 3
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands hold a richer flora than might be expected for a place without turf bogs or damp ground. There are no marshy plants, no heath, no sedges, no rushes. Even so, the hillsides carry a great variety of flowering plants indigenous to the soil, blossoming at different times of the year. In the rocky clefts grow wild thyme, variegated ivy, the crimson berries of the orchis, the red fruit of the wild strawberry, and the delicate blue of the forget-me-not. Harebell and speedwell grow there, fringed with the maidenhair fern. White and red clover mingle with medicinal herbs, among them wild garlic and the kenneen, or fairy flax, much relied on for its medicinal qualities. The tormentil root serves in place of bark for tanning. Another plant yields a fine blue dye, which the islanders use in colouring woollen cloths they manufacture for their own wear. In the rocky dell are several kinds of convolvulus of very rich florescence. The Madagascar periwinkle seems perfectly acclimatized and blossoms profusely. And there is an abundant growth of hops, the introduction of which is ascribed to the monks of the olden time.
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Sir Francis Head's 1852 inquiry into Claddagh and Aran morals
Claddagh · electoral division · Galway · 1852
Sir Francis Head, touring Ireland in 1852, visited the Galway police barrack and inquired about the morals of the Claddagh people. The officer reported no cases of illegitimate births among the Claddagh fish-women or the women of the three Aran islands, and noted a magistrate confirmed the same for Aran.
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Answer. "Not a single case — not one; and not only have I never known of such a case, but I never heard any person attribute immorality to the fishwomen. I was on duty in the three islands of
56 THEIR PURITY OF MORALS.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 26
As the companion tells it
Claddagh, near Galway. In 1852, Sir Francis Head inquired at the Galway police barrack about the morals of the local people. The officer answered: "Not a single case — not one." He had never known an illegitimate birth among the fish-women, nor heard anyone attribute immorality to them. A magistrate confirmed the same for the Aran islands.
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Sun-fish fishery value at Aran, 1762
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1762
In May the pursuit of sun-fish gave employment to many at Aran. Evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762 showed that sun-fish of average size were worth from six to eight pounds each, indicating the economic importance of this fishery.
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The fishery here begins in the spring, and great quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet, and mackerel are caught. The natives look much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints their expectations. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish gives employment to many, and it appears, from evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762, that sun-fish of average size were worth from jCs to £>*> each. Then all manner of shellfish are in abundance in those waters — multivalves, bivalves,
F
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 30
As the companion tells it
Near the Aran Islands, the fishery begins in spring. Great quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet and mackerel are caught, and the natives look much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish gives employment to many. Evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762 showed that sun-fish of average size were worth from six to eight pounds each. All manner of shellfish are in abundance in those waters.
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Papal burial legend on Inishmore
Innismore · street · Dublin
The Leabhar-braec states that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran, a claim repeated in the Ordnance Survey volumes stored at the Royal Irish Academy.
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On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, and in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 14
As the companion tells it
The great island of Aran, according to the Leabhar-braec, is where one of the Popes was interred. The same claim is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work never printed, stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, in English, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I, and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey. On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it an old castle on an eminence. There is shown the bed of St. Coemhan, famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light 110 feet in height.
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1787 Irish Act granted deep sea fishery bounties
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1787–1887
An Irish Act passed in 1787 under George III offered bounties for herring catches and dried fish, including 80 guineas for the greatest quantity of herrings imported. The author contrasts this with the difficulty Aran islanders faced obtaining any funds in 1887.
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in 1887 no bonus of any kind can be obtained, in 1787 bonuses of many kinds could be obtained, and were obtained. In the 27th year of George III., A.D. 1787, an Irish Act was passed "for the encouragement of the fishery usually called the deep sea fishery." The marginal note of that section, a section too long to repeat, states that " bounties will be given, 80 guineas for the greatest quantity of herrings caught by the crew of any one vessel, and imported between the ist of June and the 3ist of December in any one year; 60 guineas for the next greatest quantity, 40 guineas for the next, and 20 guineas for the next, to be paid on the ist of January following." By the same Act bounties of four shillings a barrel were authorized to be given for herrings; and by another section, the fourteenth, three shillings and threepence by the hundredweight was allowed for all dried cod, ling, and other fish mentioned therein. Bounties, however, have long since been discouraged by political economists, and loans have long since been discouraged by other economists, and between those scientists money for the improvement of the Aran fishery was never so hard to be got at as at this present time.
From the coastguard return it would appear that the Galway coastguard division is guarded by five coastguard stations, two of them being on the Aran islands, in which there has been an increase in 1886
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands lie out in Galway Bay. In 1887 the people here found that no bonus of any kind could be obtained, yet a hundred years earlier, in 1787, bonuses of many kinds could be obtained, and were obtained. In the 27th year of George the Third, an Irish Act was passed for the encouragement of the fishery usually called the deep sea fishery. The marginal note of that section states that bounties will be given: 80 guineas for the greatest quantity of herrings caught by the crew of any one vessel, and imported between the 1st of June and the 31st of December in any one year; 60 guineas for the next greatest quantity, 40 guineas for the next, and 20 guineas for the next, to be paid on the 1st of January following. By the same Act, bounties of four shillings a barrel were authorized for herrings. And by the fourteenth section, three shillings and threepence by the hundredweight was allowed for all dried cod, ling, and other fish mentioned therein. Bounties have long since been discouraged by political economists, and loans have long since been discouraged by other economists, and between those scientists money for the improvement of the Aran fishery was never so hard to be got at as at this present time. The Galway coastguard division is guarded by five coastguard stations, two of them on the Aran islands, where there has been an increase in 1886.
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Charles II grants Aran Islands to Earl of Aran
Innismore · street · Dublin · 1670
In September 1670, Charles II granted the great island of Aran, measuring 2376 acres, to Richard, Earl of Aran, under the Act of Settlement. The land was held at an annual crown rent.
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A.D. 1670. On the Qth of September, Charles II., by patent under the Act of Settlement, granted to Richard, Earl of Aran, the great island, containing 2376 acres statute measure, all situate in the half barony of Aran, county of Galway, at the annual rent of iSs. 5\d. crown rent, payable to the King and his successors. We may observe that the " crown rent " payable to the Crown for lands is the same rent as that which was formerly paid to the abbot or prior of the abbeys and priories confiscated from them under the statute of Henry VIII. — consequently lands held under the religious houses pay crown rent even to this day. Quit rent (Quietus Kedditus) in the province of Connaught, merely three halfpence an acre, was for the first time imposed at the Restoration, and amounts in the islands of Aran to £14 Ss. 4*i.
A.D. 1687. A grant was made in this year by James II. of three- fourths of the tithes of Aran islands to the Most Reverend John Vesey, D.D., Protestant Lord Archbishop of Tuam, and his successors in the See. One could readily account for his Majesty's bestowing the tithes in question on the Catholic archbishop, but why he bestowed them on the Protestant line appears unaccountable; yet so it is stated in the appendix to the report of the Royal Commission
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22
As the companion tells it
On the 9th of September 1670, Charles II granted the great island of Aran to Richard, Earl of Aran. The island contained 2376 acres, statute measure, all situated in the half barony of Aran, county of Galway. The grant was made by patent under the Act of Settlement, at an annual crown rent payable to the King and his successors. The crown rent payable to the Crown for lands was the same rent that had formerly been paid to the abbot or prior of the abbeys and priories confiscated from them under the statute of Henry VIII. Lands held under the religious houses paid crown rent even to the present day. Quit rent in the province of Connaught, merely 3 halfpence an acre, was imposed for the first time at the Restoration, and in the islands amounted to 14 pounds, 8 shillings, and 4 pence. In 1687, James II granted three-fourths of the tithes of the islands to John Vesey, Protestant Archbishop of Tuam, and his successors in the See. The book notes that one could readily account for his Majesty bestowing the tithes on the Catholic archbishop, but why he bestowed them on the Protestant line appears unaccountable, yet so it is stated in the appendix to the report of the Royal Commission.
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Galway Union clerk's 1886 report on Aran islands health and rates
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886
R.F. Mullery, clerk of the Galway Union, wrote in September 1886 that Aran's poor-rate was exceptionally low due to a relief grant, that no islanders were in the workhouse, and that there was no hospital on the islands despite the thirty-mile boat journey to Galway.
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" The present poundage-rate, one shilling in the pound, is exceptionally low, owing to a grant 0^440, under the ' relief of the distressed Unions Act,' having been made to the islands. The average rate for the last ten years was three shillings in the pound. We never have islanders. There is no hospital, though there ought to be one, on the islands, as the sick poor are deterred from coming thirty miles by boat to the workhouse. The general health is exceptionally good, and very many live to a very old age. I have an opportunity of knowing this, as I have to examine the registry of deaths at the end of each quarter. The islanders as a rule are very intelligent, and quick at picking up anything they can either hear or see ; and, best of all, they are a moral people, a case of illegitimacy scarcely ever occurring in the islands, and then it is looked on as a crime of the blackest dye. "I have the honour, etc.,
"ROBERT F. MULLERY."
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 26
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands lie in Galway Bay. In September 1886, Mullery, clerk of the Galway Union, reported on conditions there. The poor-rate was one shilling in the pound, exceptionally low, because a grant had been made to the islands under the relief of the distressed Unions Act. The average rate for the previous ten years had been three shillings in the pound. No islanders were in the workhouse. There was no hospital on the islands, though Mullery said there ought to be one, as the sick poor were deterred from making a thirty-mile boat journey to Galway. The general health was exceptionally good, and very many lived to a very old age. Mullery knew this because he examined the registry of deaths at the end of each quarter. He described the islanders as very intelligent and quick at picking up anything they could hear or see. He called them "a moral people," saying illegitimacy scarcely ever occurred, and when it did, it was "looked on as a crime of the blackest dye."
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James O'Brien, MP and judge for Limerick city
Limerick · city · Limerick · 1854–1858
James O'Brien, Esq., Q.C., served as Member of Parliament for the city of Limerick from 1854 to 1858, when he was elevated to a judgeship in the Queen's Bench. He was of the Ballynalacken O'Brien family, descended from Bryan Boroimhe.
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This Turlough, King of Thomond, was ancestor of Teige O'Brien, who married Annabella, daughter of Ulick McWilliam Burke, of Clanrickarde, known as " Ulick of the Wine," and by her had, with other sons, Turlough Don, King of Thomond in 1498, and Donai. Turlough Don was ancestor of the family of Inchiquin, of which we have spoken, and from Donal sprang Turlough O'Brien, who was married to a grandniece of Sir Toby Butler, better known as the jovial Sir Toby, the great luminary of the Connaught Circuit, Solicitor-General for Ireland under James II., and the celebrated lawyer who drafted that treaty which will be remembered by all generations as the broken Treaty of Limerick. Turlough was the grandfather of John O'Brien, of Ballynalacken, who died in 1855, and of James O'Brien, Esq., Q.C., who was Member of Parliament for the city of Limerick from 1854 to 1858, when he was raised to a judgeship in the Queen's Bench. It is too near our own time to speak of
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42
As the companion tells it
Limerick carries a long memory of the O'Brien family. Turlough, King of Thomond, was ancestor of Teige O'Brien. Teige married Annabella, daughter of Ulick McWilliam Burke of Clanrickarde, known as "Ulick of the Wine." Their sons included Turlough Don, King of Thomond in 1498, and Donal. Turlough Don was ancestor of the Inchiquin family. From Donal came Turlough O'Brien, married to a grandniece of Sir Toby Butler. Sir Toby was the great luminary of the Connaught Circuit, Solicitor-General for Ireland under James II, the lawyer who drafted the broken Treaty of Limerick. That Turlough was grandfather of John O'Brien of Ballynalacken, who died in 1855, and of James O'Brien, Queen's Counsel. James was Member of Parliament for the city from 1854 to 1858, when he was raised to a judgeship in the Queen's Bench.
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O'Briens of Ballynalacken descended from Bryan Boroimhe
Ballynalacken · townland · Cork · 1854–1858
The O'Briens of Ballynalacken, like the Inchiquin branch, traced their lineage in unbroken succession to Bryan Boroimhe. John O'Brien of Ballynalacken died in 1855, and his brother James O'Brien, Q.C., served as Member of Parliament for the city of Limerick from 1854 to 1858 before being raised to the Queen's Bench.
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This Turlough, King of Thomond, was ancestor of Teige O'Brien, who married Annabella, daughter of Ulick McWilliam Burke, of Clanrickarde, known as " Ulick of the Wine," and by her had, with other sons, Turlough Don, King of Thomond in 1498, and Donai. Turlough Don was ancestor of the family of Inchiquin, of which we have spoken, and from Donal sprang Turlough O'Brien, who was married to a grandniece of Sir Toby Butler, better known as the jovial Sir Toby, the great luminary of the Connaught Circuit, Solicitor-General for Ireland under James II., and the celebrated lawyer who drafted that treaty which will be remembered by all generations as the broken Treaty of Limerick. Turlough was the grandfather of John O'Brien, of Ballynalacken, who died in 1855, and of James O'Brien, Esq., Q.C., who was Member of Parliament for the city of Limerick from 1854 to 1858, when he was raised to a judgeship in the Queen's Bench. It is too near our own time to speak of
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 42
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here, the O'Briens of Ballynalacken traced their line in unbroken succession to Bryan Boroimhe. The descent runs from Turlough, King of Thomond, ancestor of Teige O'Brien, who married Annabella, daughter of Ulick McWilliam Burke of Clanrickarde, known as "Ulick of the Wine." By her, Teige had Turlough Don, King of Thomond in 1498, and Donal. From Donal sprang Turlough O'Brien, married to a grandniece of Sir Toby Butler, the great luminary of the Connaught Circuit, Solicitor-General for Ireland under James II, who drafted the broken Treaty of Limerick. That Turlough was grandfather of John O'Brien of Ballynalacken, who died in 1855, and of James O'Brien, Q.C., Member of Parliament for the city of Limerick from 1854 to 1858, when he was raised to a judgeship in the Queen's Bench.
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Potato crop failure and fuel shortage on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886
Rev. Killride reported that the potato crop on Aran was entirely gone and no fish had been taken. The people were expected to suffer terribly for want of fuel, and relief funds from Sir John Harrington and others were used for seed potatoes, turf, and assistance with emigration.
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" What kept the poor rate down both last year and this was the amount of relief given out. Mr. Thompson, the agent, laid out ^140 on a road, and ^136 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington has given me upwards of £100 for this object, and this year he gave me ^80 or £90 for seed potatoes and £ 1 20 for relief and also money to assist emigration and to buy turf. The people will suffer terribly this year for
/6 BARONESS BURDETT-COUTTS.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 35
As the companion tells it
On the Aran Islands in 1886, the potato crop was entirely gone and no fish had been taken. Relief funds kept the poor rate down. Mr. Thompson, the agent, laid out 140 on a road and 136 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington gave upwards of £100, and that year gave 80 or £90 for seed potatoes, £120 for relief, and money to assist emigration and to buy turf. The people would suffer terribly for want of fuel.
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St. John's Eve bonfires on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
On St. John's Eve in June, huge bonfires are still lighted near every village on Aran, a survival of the Druidic sacred fires kindled at each quarter day. The holy flame was believed essential to protect cattle from contagious disorders.
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of old, men of renown, whose acts and deeds even now are celebrated in songs sung at the cottage firesides by minstrels to the strings of the wandering harper : on every lip are the exploits of Churcullen, of Gol, son of Morna, of Oscar, and of Ossian, and here are pointed out the places where they lived and died. We have also the immense " cromlechs " or altar flags, supported on perpendicular pillars, as we may venture to call the unhammered stones of about three feet in height, whilst under those " cromlechs " still rest the remains of heroes whose faithful dogs interred with them bear them company even in death. Here, too, no bad memory is retained of the sacred fires of Bal (another name for the sun), which were kept burning ; for the sun, and the moon, and the stars were by them reverenced ; but the sun of the Druids was supposed to be the most noble type of the Godhead — the most glorious object of the material creation. The mysterious stones, twelve in number, encircling the altars of sacrifice, sometimes said to be zodiacal rings, after the twelve signs of the zodiac, are here frequently to be found. The purifying ordeals the cattle were subject to at Aran until a very late period are yet there remembered. The sacred fires on the first day of each of the quarters blazed from cairn to cairn, amid prayers for the fruits of the earth, and even yet, on St. John's Eve in June, huge bonfires are lighted near every village through the
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 8
As the companion tells it
On the Aran Islands, off the coast of Galway, the old ways have not fully died. The songs still name the heroes: Churcullen, Gol the son of Morna, Oscar, and Ossian. People point out where they lived and died. The great cromlechs stand here, altar flags resting on upright stones about 3 feet high, unworked and unhammered. Under them lie the remains of heroes, and their faithful dogs are buried with them, keeping company even in death. The sacred fires of Bal, another name for the sun, were kept burning here. The Druids reverenced the sun and the moon and the stars, but the sun they held to be the most noble type of the Godhead, the most glorious object of the material creation. Stones, 12 in number, encircle the altars of sacrifice, sometimes called zodiacal rings after the 12 signs of the zodiac. These are found here frequently. The purifying ordeals that cattle underwent at Aran are still remembered. The sacred fires blazed from cairn to cairn on the first day of each quarter, amid prayers for the fruits of the earth. And even now, on St. John's Eve in June, huge bonfires are lighted near every village through the islands.
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Terraced rock landscape of Aran from the Galway approach
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
The Aran landscape seen from the Galway side consists of bare rocky fields rising terrace over terrace—sometimes nine in number—from a soft sea beach to topmost cliffs hundreds of feet above the Atlantic on the south-west side. Though appearing barren, green herbage and rich botanical specimens flourish in the rock cleavages and fissures.
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The Aran landscape as your vessel approaches from Galway is a peculiar one — peculiar to Aran. From the soft sea beach on the Galway side of the island, which varies in breadth from one to four miles across, slope fields of bare rocks terrace over terrace, sometimes nine in number, until they reach the topmost cliff on the south-west or ocean side hundreds of feet over the Atlantic. This terraced landscape has the appearance of being a barren and rocky wilderness ; but on closer inspection threads of fresh green herbages can be traced in the cleavages and deeply cut fissures of the rocks, and it is in those cleavages that the richest profusion of botanical specimens are to be found. The cleft upon which we stood was teeming with purple heather, foxglove, scarlet geranium, and
6 THE FLORA OF ARAN.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 3
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands rise from the sea on the Galway side as a landscape peculiar to themselves. From the soft sea beach, which varies in breadth from one to four miles across, fields of bare rock slope terrace over terrace, sometimes nine in number, until they reach the topmost cliff on the south-west side, hundreds of feet over the Atlantic. It looks a barren, rocky wilderness. But threads of fresh green herbage trace through the cleavages and deeply cut fissures of the rocks. It is in those cleavages that the richest profusion of botanical specimens are found. Purple heather, foxglove, and scarlet geranium grow in the clefts.
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Character and temperament of the Aran islanders
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
The inhabitants of the Aran Islands are described as simple, innocent, thoughtful and intelligent, credulous and regarded by some as superstitious in matters of faith. They are noted for honesty, a high sense of decency and propriety, and for being polite and respectful to strangers without servility.
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" They are simple and innocent, but also thoughtful and intelligent, credulous, and, in matters of faith, what persons of a different creed would call superstitious. Lying and drinking, the vices which Arthur Young considers as appertaining to the Irish character, form at least no part of it in Aran, for happily their common poverty holds out less temptation to the vices of lying and drinking.
" I do not mean to say they are rigidly temperate, or that instances of excess, followed by the usual Irish consequences of broken heads, do not occasionally occur — such could not be expected, when their convivial temperament and dangerous and laborious occupations are remembered. They never swear, and they have a high sense of decency and propriety, honour and justice. In appearance they are healthy, comely, and prepossessing; in their dress (with few exceptions) clean and comfortable ; in manner serious yet cheerful, and easily excited to gaiety ; frank and familiar in conversation, and to strangers polite and respectful, but at the same time free from servile adulation. They are communicative, but not too
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 25
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands lie off the coast of Galway, and the people who live on them have long drawn notice for their character. The islanders are described as simple and innocent, but also thoughtful and intelligent. They are credulous, and in matters of faith, what persons of a different creed would call superstitious. Lying and drinking, the vices Arthur Young considered as appertaining to the Irish character, form at least no part of it in Aran, for their common poverty holds out less temptation to such vices. That is not to say they are rigidly temperate. Instances of excess do occasionally occur, followed by the usual Irish consequences of broken heads, which is perhaps to be expected given their convivial temperament and their dangerous and laborious occupations. They never swear. They have a high sense of decency and propriety, honour and justice. In appearance they are healthy, comely, and prepossessing, and in their dress clean and comfortable, with few exceptions. In manner they are serious yet cheerful, easily excited to gaiety, frank and familiar in conversation, and to strangers polite and respectful, but free from servile adulation. They are communicative, but not too
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Bed of St. Coemhan on Inisheer
Inisheer · townland · Galway
On Inisheer island, near a signal tower and an old castle on an eminence, is shown the 'bed of St. Coemhan,' much famed for its miraculous cures.
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On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, and in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 14
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here, on Inisheer, near a signal tower and an old castle on an eminence, is shown the bed of St. Coemhan, much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point of the island is a lighthouse showing a light 110 feet in height. The Leabhar-braec states that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which was never printed, stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the 3 or 4 volumes on the county of Galway are contained, in English, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I, and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.
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Chough flocks unique to Aran among the United Kingdom
Inisheer · townland · Galway
The chough, a handsome bird with glossy dark plumage and scarlet beak and legs, was said to be very numerous on the north island of Aran. The author claims it could no longer be found anywhere else in the United Kingdom except on Aran.
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The crops are greatly devastated by caterpillars and grubs. The abundance of these pernicious insects is attributed to the great scarcity of sparrows and other small birds. Starlings are seldom seen ; but never a swallow. Sea gulls are numerous, and amongst the sea birds the osprey or sea eagle is a conspicuous object. Neither the raven, rook, crow, nor jackdaw visits the islands ; but there is a handsome bird which is very numerous, especially in the north island. The chough, which, in addition to plumage dark and glossy like that of the jackdaw, displays a beak and legs of bright scarlet It is said that this bird was formerly to be seen in flocks on various parts of the English coasts, and that now it cannot be found in any part of the United Kingdom except in Aran. Plovers, gannets, pigeons, duck, teal, and divers breed abundantly on the rocky ledges. The cliffs are the resort of countless puffins (Anas I^iuopsis) ; the
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 4
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here, on Inisheer, the old writers noticed what was missing from the sky. No sparrows, hardly any starlings, never a swallow. The crops suffered for it, devastated by caterpillars and grubs, and the abundance of these insects was blamed on the scarcity of small birds. Neither the raven, rook, crow, nor jackdaw visits the islands. But there is a handsome bird which is very numerous, especially in the north island. The chough, with plumage dark and glossy like that of the jackdaw, displays a beak and legs of bright scarlet. It is said that this bird was formerly to be seen in flocks on various parts of the English coasts, and that now it cannot be found in any part of the United Kingdom except in Aran. Sea gulls are numerous here, and the osprey or sea eagle is a conspicuous object. Plovers, gannets, pigeons, duck, teal, and divers breed abundantly on the rocky ledges, and the cliffs are the resort of countless puffins.
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Former forests of oak and pine on Inishmore
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway
Formerly there were forests of oak and pine on Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands. These forests must have been particularly suited to those suffering from diseases of the chest, and their former existence attests to a different landscape in earlier times.
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THE extreme old age to which the inhabitants live in Aran proves the excellence of the air and of the food. Neither asthma, nor gout, nor rheumatism are known in portions of the islands. Formerly there were forests of oak and of pine in Inishmore, which must have been peculiarly suited to those who suffered from diseases of the chest
The fishery here begins in the spring, and great quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet, and mackerel are caught. The natives look much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints their expectations. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish gives employment to many, and it appears, from evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762, that sun-fish of average size were worth from jCs to £>*> each. Then all manner of shellfish are in abundance in those waters — multivalves, bivalves,
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 30
As the companion tells it
Inishmore is the largest of the Aran Islands. People on the islands once lived to extreme old age, taken as proof of the excellence of the air and the food. Neither asthma, nor gout, nor rheumatism were known in portions of the islands. Formerly there were forests of oak and pine in Inishmore, which must have been peculiarly suited to those who suffered from diseases of the chest. The fishery begins in the spring, and great quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet, and mackerel are caught. The natives look much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints their expectations. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish gives employment to many. Evidence given before the Irish House of Commons in 1762 described the value of sun-fish of average size. All manner of shellfish are in abundance in those waters.
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Galway Bay trawling prohibition and its effects
near Galway Bay · bay · Clare
Trawling was prohibited in about half of Galway Bay for a number of years and was not practiced at all for roughly four years. According to public inquiry evidence, no improvement in the fisheries resulted during the cessation.
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of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated ; the result of which investigation will form the subject of a special report. We shall only observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased in that period.
" In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into." *
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37
As the companion tells it
The waters of Galway Bay have seen a long dispute over trawling. The trawlers worked from Barna to the islands of Aran, and whether trawling injured the supply of fish was insisted upon by one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated. In Galway Bay, trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all. So far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing, in either the whole or part of the bay. The Scotch Fishery Board had prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. In Dublin Bay, trawling was prohibited for nearly 44 years, and the question arose whether the fisheries of that bay had increased in that period. In other bays no trawling was ever carried on, and the present state of the fisheries in such places would have to be carefully inquired into.
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Kilronan: capital of Inishmore with harbour and pier
Kilronan · village · Galway · 1886
Kilronan is the capital of Inishmore, described as a village with a good hotel. Its harbour is spacious but not suited for heavy-tonnage vessels; a pier of four or five hundred yards extends into the sea, where the mail-boat was moored during stormy weather in late July 1886.
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The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of which was moored during the tempestuous days of the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread ; so that nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2
As the companion tells it
Kilronan is the capital of Inishmore, a village with a good hotel. Its harbour is spacious but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards runs out into the sea. During the tempestuous days of the last week of July 1886, her Majesty's mail-boat was moored alongside it, a large-sized sailing yacht with a cabin and forecastle, manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. No steamer had yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, and so frequently for four or five days communication with the mainland became impossible. Letters remained unanswered and newspapers remained unread. The nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace carry on.
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Kilronan village built on sixth limestone terrace
Kilronan · village · Galway
The village of Kilronan, the capital of Inishmore, was built on the sixth lowest of the descending limestone terraces overlooking Galway Bay. A shale bed under that terrace, over the seventh, contained the water supply for the glebe and upper village wells.
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One of the most remarkable features in the conformation of Inishmore is, that between the overlapping strata or terraces of limestone, thirty-seven feet in thickness in some places and eighteen in others, are beds of shale. The highest of the terraces is 320 feet over high-water mark, on the perpendicular cliff overlooking the Atlantic. On the sixth lowest of these descending steps the village of Kilronan, the capital of the island, over against the Galway bay, is built, and under that terrace and over the seventh is a shale bed which contains the water supply for the glebe and upper village wells.
Those who delight in geological speculations will find in these isles much to interest them. Here are deep furrows in the hard rocks, cut as they say by passing icebergs. One of these ice-cut furrows may be seen near the shore of Killeany Bay, about two hundred yards north-east of Lough Atalia, and a quarter of a mile from Kilronan. It is about seven yards long, nearly a yard wide, having a bearing of east by north. Though the icebergs have left their striae, and though their passage is marked by the deep furrows cut by them as they moved, nevertheless the patches of boulder drift on the surface are few ; but the bergs in their passage from the north district did drop some huge metamorphic rocks, not one of which is indigenous, so
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 6
As the companion tells it
Kilronan is the capital of Inishmore, built on the sixth lowest of the descending limestone terraces that overlook Galway Bay. The terraces overlap each other, 37 feet thick in some places, 18 in others, and between them lie beds of shale. The highest terrace stands 320 feet over high-water mark, on the perpendicular cliff overlooking the Atlantic. Under the sixth terrace, over the seventh, a shale bed holds the water supply for the glebe and for the upper village wells. So the village draws its water from stone. Those who care for geology will find much in these isles. Deep furrows in the hard rocks, cut as they say by passing icebergs, mark the landscape. One such furrow lies near the shore of Killeany Bay, about 200 yards north-east of Lough Atalia, and a quarter mile from the village. It runs about 7 yards long, nearly a yard wide, bearing east by north. The icebergs left their striae and their deep-cut passage, though patches of boulder drift on the surface are few. But the bergs, moving from the north, did drop huge metamorphic rocks, not one of which is native to this place.
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Land division system of Aran Islands — townlands, quarters, croggeries
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway
The Aran islands were divided into townlands containing 4 or 6 quarters, each quarter containing 16 croggeries of 16 acres. Inishmore had 4 townlands totalling 6,144 acres; Inishmaan had 2 townlands with 6 quarters each; Innisheer had 1 townland with 4 quarters.
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Witness said that "croggery" was a very ancient name for fourths. The entire islands were divided into townlands, which townlands contained 4 or 6 quarters each, every quarter containing 1 6 croggeries, and every croggery containing 16 acres. Inishmore thus con-
t. qra. erof. «e.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 32
As the companion tells it
The road passes through Inishmore. The Aran Islands were divided into townlands, each holding 4 or 6 quarters. Every quarter had 16 croggeries, every croggery 16 acres. A witness said "croggery" was "a very ancient name for fourths." This island held 4 townlands totalling 6,144 acres. Inishmaan had 2 with 6 quarters each, and Innisheer 1 with 4 quarters.
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Legal dispute over Aran royalties
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1746
In 1746, the case of The Mayor of Galway v. Digby, concerning the royalties of the Aran Islands, caused great excitement in Galway during the summer assizes. The trial was presided over by Mr. Justice Caufield.
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A.D. 1746. The case of The Mayor of Galway v. Digby, conversant as it was with the royalties of the islands of Aran, caused great excitement in the town during the summer assizes of the year. The action was tried before Mr. Justice Caufield. Mr. Staunton, Mr. French, and another, appeared as counsel for the
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands were at the centre of a legal dispute in 1746. The case of the Mayor of Galway against Digby concerned the royalties of the islands, and it caused great excitement in the town during the summer assizes. Mr. Justice Caufield tried the action. Mr. Staunton, Mr. French, and another appeared as counsel.
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Military garrison established on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1691
Following the surrender of Galway to William and Mary in 1691, a military garrison was dispatched to Aran. A barracks was built on the island where soldiers were stationed for many years.
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A.D. 1691. On the surrender of Galway to the arms of William and Mary, a garrison was sent to Aran, and a barrack therein built in which soldiers were for many years stationed.
A.D. 1700. An excursion was made to the islands in this year by one whose name is well known by those who prefer to contemplate the silent life of vegetation to the saddening spectacle of man at variance with his fellow-man. Edward Lnwyd spent many months inspecting the flora of the islands, and having done so, made his report upon them, which is said to be a marvel in its way.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands, in Galway. In 1691, after Galway surrendered to the arms of William and Mary, a garrison was sent to the islands. A barracks was built there, and soldiers were stationed in it for many years. In 1700, Edward Lhwyd came to the islands. He spent many months inspecting the flora and made a report on them, said to be a marvel in its way. He was known to those who preferred “the silent life of vegetation to the saddening spectacle of man at variance with his fellow-man.”
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Oratory of St. Banon on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
The Oratory of St. Banon is noted as an exception among Aran's churches, which generally face the east. The text mentions a local tradition that churches faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day the foundation stone was laid.
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Ruins everywhere meet the eye of the tourist in Aran — ruined abbeys, ruined monasteries, ruined nunneries, ruined cells, ruined churches, ruined schools, ruined forts, ruined forests, and ruined towers. With one exception the churches of Aran face the east. I heard somewhere, when on the islands, that that is not exactly true, but that they faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day that the foundation stone was laid. Be that as it may, there is the Oratory of St. Banon, which directly faces the
RUINS.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 12
As the companion tells it
On the Aran Islands ruins are everywhere you look. Abbeys, monasteries, nunneries, cells, churches, schools, forts, forests, and towers, all fallen to ruin. Nearly all the churches here face the east. There is a tradition on the islands that they did not all face true east, but faced the point of the compass where the sun rose on the day the foundation stone was laid. The Oratory of St. Banon is the one exception among them. It directly faces the ruins.
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Pine and fir stumps numerous on Aran Islands
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
Stumps of pine and fir are numerous in the Aran Islands, indicating these trees once grew there. The fir tree was highly esteemed historically, used in building Solomon's temple and musical instruments in Israel.
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Stumps of Pine and Fir are numerous in the Aran islands. The fir tree has been ever highly esteemed. It was amongst the materials employed in the building of Solomon's temple. Together with the pine it was held in such veneration in France, that St. Martin met with the strongest possible opposition when he proposed the destruction of the holy fir groves. The fir grew luxuriantly in Palestine ; and the Prophet Hosea saith that the Lord will make Ephraim flourish " like
HOLLY— IVY. 95
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands hold numerous stumps of pine and fir, signs that these trees once grew there. The fir tree was ever highly esteemed. It was among the materials used in building Solomon's temple. Together with the pine, it was held in such veneration in France that St. Martin met with the strongest possible opposition when he proposed the destruction of the holy fir groves. The fir grew luxuriantly in Palestine, and the Prophet Hosea said the Lord will make Ephraim flourish like the fir.
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Seven Churches and Teampul Brecain on Inishmore
Innismore · street · Dublin
At the north-western side of Inishmore, six miles from Kilronan, are the remains of the Seven Churches, one of which is Teampul Brecain—the church of St. Braccan, founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath.
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are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel
The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13
As the companion tells it
A group of early church ruins at the north-western side of Inishmore, six miles from Kilronan, the Seven Churches. One of these is Teampul Brecain, the church of St. Braccan, who founded the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The churches are all of small dimensions, never more than 60 feet in length. At the eastern end there is frequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave and the chancel was the chancel arch, of a semicircular form. A very beautiful specimen of such an arch exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples were very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards. There is a legend in the islands about St. Braccan's bed, worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblessed with children. Many a fair devotee has prayed there and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo, when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel.
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Mortgage of Aran to James Lynch Fitz Ambrose
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1570
In 1570, Morchowe O'Brien conveyed the islands of Aran by mortgage to James Lynch Fitz Ambrose of Galway and his heirs, in consideration of a sum of money paid to him.
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A.D. 1570. Morchowe O'Brien, in consideration of a sum of money to him in hand paid, conveyed these
* " The Straits of Dover " does not occur in the Annals, but the word which does so 'occur is construed by the commentator to be those "straits."
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 17
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands passed by mortgage in 1570. Morchowe O'Brien conveyed them to James Lynch Fitz Ambrose of Galway and his heirs. The record says it was done "in consideration of a sum of money to him in hand paid." An island chain turned over for cash, from an O'Brien to a Galway family.
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Teampull-Chiarain and its eastern window
Innismore · street · Dublin
Teampull-Chiarain on Inishmore is described as fifteen feet long, seventeen feet high to the gables, and eleven feet broad, with a beautiful eastern window and some crosses.
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north. It is fifteen feet long, by seventeen feet high to the summit of the gables, by eleven feet in breadth. Close by are the remains of the hermitage, partly sunk in the rock, and of some cloghauns, or stone-roofed dwellings. How those solitaries, who for centuries held up the lamp of learning which shone across Europe during the long night which followed the breaking up of the Roman empire, could live in such comfortless cells, it is impossible to apprehend : circular chambers about twenty feet in exterior diameter, with a hole in the stone beehive roof for a chimney, and with an Egyptian-like doorway that a tall man could with difficulty enter. Teampull-Chiarain has a beautiful eastern window, with some crosses. Four miles from Kilronan are Kilmurvey and Teampul McDuach, a sixth-century church, consisting of nave and choir in beautiful preservation. There are windows there of remote antiquity, with lintels formed of two leaning stones; and there is a semicircular window of great beauty of a more recent date. There is a stone leaning against the eastern gable with a rudely cut opening which seems to have been the head of the more ancient window. The narrow doorway is like the entrance to an Egyptian tomb. Another small church, Teampul-beg, together with a holy well and monastic enclosure, is worthy of inspection. At the north-western side of the Inishmore island, and six miles from Kilronan,
CHILDLESS MARRIAGES. 2/
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13
As the companion tells it
Teampull-Chiarain is a church on Inishmore, fifteen feet long, eleven feet in breadth, and seventeen feet high to the summit of the gables. It has a beautiful eastern window, with some crosses. Close by are the remains of a hermitage, partly sunk in the rock, and of some cloghauns, or stone-roofed dwellings. How those solitaries, who for centuries held up the lamp of learning which shone across Europe during the long night which followed the breaking up of the Roman empire, could live in such comfortless cells, it is impossible to apprehend. The circular chambers are about twenty feet in exterior diameter, with a hole in the stone beehive roof for a chimney, and with an Egyptian-like doorway that a tall man could with difficulty enter.
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Aran Islands estate rental history from 1794 to 1885
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1794–1885
The estate agent, Mr. Thompson of Clonskea Castle, testified that all rentals and leases from 1794 were in his custody. The rental rose from £2,143 in 1800 to £2,668 in 1812, then declined to £2,067 by 1885 across 11,288 acres.
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Mr. Thompson, of Clonskea Castle, county Dublin, sworn. Is the agent on the estate ; succeeded his father, who had been agent for many years. Witness has in his custody all the rentals and leases of the estate from 1794. "The rental in 1800 was £2 143, as fixed by valuation in that year. In 1812 the rental was ^2668 ; in 1827, ^2145 ioj. *d. ; in 1846, ^1937 17*. id. ; in 1881,^2067 > in |885, ^2067 ; the acreage of the islands being 11,288 acres. The lands are in the hands of tenants, with the exception of two croggeries which are in my occupation."
The learned chairman, Mr. Crean, B.L., inquired what a croggery meant.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 32
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands cover 11,288 acres off the coast of Galway. Mr. Thompson of Clonskea Castle, County Dublin, was sworn as the estate agent, having succeeded his father, who had held the post for many years. He had in his custody all rentals and leases from 1794. The rental in 1800 was £2,143, fixed by valuation that year. By 1812 it had risen to £2,668. Then it fell: £2,145 in 1827, £1,937 in 1846, and £2,067 by 1885. The lands were in tenants' hands, except two croggeries Thompson held himself. The chairman, Mr. Crean, B.L., asked what a croggery meant.
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St. Coemhan and Aran-Coemhan on Inisheer
Inisheer · townland · Galway
The eastern island (Inisheer) was anciently called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St. Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was renowned among the saints of Aran and was believed to have frequently abated storms after being piously invoked.
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are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel
The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here, the eastern island was anciently called Aran-Coemhan, in honour of St. Coemhan, known also as St. Kevin. He was the brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough, and one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran. He is believed to have frequently abated storms after being piously invoked. The remains of the seven churches stand in these islands. One is called Teampul Brecain, the church of St. Braccan, who founded the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. It is that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo, when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel. The churches are all of small dimensions, never more than 60 feet in length. At the eastern end there is frequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form. These temples were very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards.
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Former tree coverage on Aran Islands
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1836–1886
Rev. William Killride, rector of Aran, reported that many places on the island were once covered with trees. About fifty years previously, a large portion of the island grew trees, especially hazel, reaching 20 to 26 feet in height. He had great difficulty preserving his own planted grove from destruction.
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has seldom more than four months' labour in the year ; so that it is a necessity on his part to get gardens on hire. Until last year or the year before he got from 1 s. to i s. 6d. in spring, with his diet ; at harvest, about is. with his diet, three meals in the day, bread and tea for breakfast, etc. When there is a hurry in seaweeding time he used to get 2$. 6d. and diet, but this lasts only a week twice in the year." The writer then speaks of several other matters connected with the island and about the possibility of growing timber there. " My little grove was planted by myself. I find the greatest difficulty in preserving it, seven trees being destroyed this year. Then I planted every nook and cranny with evergreens ; but they were plucked up three several times. I got sick of this thing. Many places in the island were covered with trees. In fact, fifty years ago or so, I have been informed that a large portion of the island grew trees, especially hazel, from 20 to 26 feet in height
" What kept the poor rate down both last year and this was the amount of relief given out. Mr. Thompson, the agent, laid out ^140 on a road, and ^136 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington has given me upwards of £100 for this object, and this year he gave me ^80 or £90 for seed potatoes and £ 1 20 for relief and also money to assist emigration and to buy turf. The people will suffer terribly this year for
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 35
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands were not always bare. Rev. William Killride, rector of Aran, reported that many places on the island were once covered with trees. About fifty years before, he had been informed that a large portion of the island grew trees, especially hazel, from 20 to 26 feet in height. Killride planted his own grove himself. He found the greatest difficulty preserving it. Seven trees were destroyed in one year. He planted every nook and cranny with evergreens, but they were plucked up three separate times. He said, "I got sick of this thing." The writer spoke of other matters connected with the island and about the possibility of growing timber there. The island's people had seldom more than four months of labour in the year, so that it was a necessity to get gardens on hire. Until a year or two before, a labourer got from 1 shilling to 1 shilling and sixpence in spring, with his diet. At harvest, about 1 shilling with his diet, three meals in the day, bread and tea for breakfast. When there was a hurry in seaweeding time he got 2 shillings and sixpence and diet, but this lasted only a week twice in the year. What kept the poor rate down was the relief given out. Mr. Thompson, the agent, laid out 140 on a road and 136 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington gave upwards of 100 pounds for this object, and this year 80 or 90 pounds for seed potatoes and 120 pounds for relief, and money to assist emigration and to buy turf. The people would suffer terribly that year.
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Ruined churches and fortresses of Inishmore
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway
Inishmore contains numerous named ruins including the fortresses Dun Aengus, Dun Eochla, and Dubh Chathair (the black fort), and the ruins of churches including Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group of cells, Tempul Brecan and Cross, Tempul Beg Mac Dara, Tempul More Mac Dara, Tempul Assurniadhe, Tempul-an-cheathrair-Aluin, St. Enda, and the seven churches.
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Of Inishmore, or the great island, Kilronan is the capital — a village with a good hotel. Killeany was the ancient capital, formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of lar Connaught. The other places of note are Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun . Kngus, Dun Eochla, Dubh Chathair or the black fort. So also on that island are the ruins of the churches of Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group
4 THE ARAN MAIL-BOAT.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2
As the companion tells it
Inishmore is the great island. Kilronan is its capital, a village with a good hotel. Killeany was the ancient capital, formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of lar Connaught. The other places of note are Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun Aengus, Dun Eochla, and Dubh Chathair, the black fort. On that island too are the ruins of churches, including Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group of cells.
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Lease of Inisheer to Andrew French
Inisheer · townland · Galway · 1717
In 1717, Edmund Fitzpatrick leased the entire island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway for 31 years at £100 per year. The lease included rights to cut thatching straw from Straw Island for houses on Inisheer.
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The fee of the islands had become vested in Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway, Esquire ; and he in 1717 demised the whole island of Inisheer to Andrew French of Galway, merchant, for thirty-one years, at the yearly rent of ^100, with liberty to cut and carry away as much straw from Straw Island as should be deemed necessary to thatch the houses on the island of Inisheer.
A.D. 1746. The case of The Mayor of Galway v. Digby, conversant as it was with the royalties of the islands of Aran, caused great excitement in the town during the summer assizes of the year. The action was tried before Mr. Justice Caufield. Mr. Staunton, Mr. French, and another, appeared as counsel for the
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 22
As the companion tells it
Somewhere close to Inisheer, in 1717, Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway leased the whole island to Andrew French, a merchant of Galway, for 31 years at a yearly rent of 100 pounds. The lease came with a particular right: liberty to cut and carry away as much straw from Straw Island as should be deemed necessary to thatch the houses on Inisheer. So the island's homes kept their roofs, and the straw came from a neighbour island, gathered under the terms of that agreement.
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Semicircular chancel arch in Tuam cathedral
Tuam · town · Galway
The Protestant cathedral of Tuam contains a very beautiful specimen of a semicircular chancel arch of the type found between nave and chancel in the Aran churches.
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The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.
28 ARAN CHURCHES.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13
As the companion tells it
In Tuam, the Protestant cathedral holds a very beautiful specimen of a semicircular chancel arch. The Aran churches this type comes from were all small, never more than 60 feet in length. At the eastern end stood a chancel where the altar was placed, and between the nave and that chancel rose the arch. Those temples were imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards.
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Dubh Cahm, the Black Fort on Inishmore
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1–100
On the south-west side of Inishmore stands Dubh Cahm, or 'the black fort,' a fortress of very rude masonry and enormous thickness overlooking the cliffs. It is one of the remaining Cyclopean structures on the island.
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these islands are many more fortresses. There is, on the north side of Inishmore, Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort, measuring 92 feet across ; and on the south-west side, Dubh Cahn, " the black fort," a Dun or fortress of very rude masonry, of enormous thickness, and overlooking the cliffs.
The Christian remains of the islands are many, and
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala
As the companion tells it
On Inishmore there stands a fortress called Dubh Cahm, the black fort, on the south-west side of the island. It is a dun of very rude masonry, built to enormous thickness, overlooking the cliffs. It is one of the old Cyclopean structures remaining on Inishmore, a fortress from the distant past of these islands.
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Dublin Bay trawling prohibition of forty-four years
near Dublin Bay · bay · Dublin
Trawling had been prohibited in Dublin Bay for nearly forty-four years, raising the question of whether the bay's fisheries actually increased during that long prohibition period.
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of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated ; the result of which investigation will form the subject of a special report. We shall only observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased in that period.
" In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into." *
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 37
As the companion tells it
Dublin Bay lies open to the Irish Sea, and for nearly forty-four years trawling has been prohibited in its waters. The question is whether the fisheries of the bay have actually increased during that long prohibition. The same question was put to other bays along this coast. In Galway Bay, trawling was prohibited for a number of years in about half the bay. For about four years it was not followed at all. So far as the evidence at public inquiries could be relied on, there was no improvement in the fisheries during the cessation of this mode of fishing, in either the whole or part of the bay. That trawling injures the supply of fish is insisted upon by one party and denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was held in Galway, where the entire question was investigated. The Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited trawling in some places in Scotland. In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on, and the present state of the fisheries in such places will have to be carefully inquired into.
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Dun Onaght, a Firbolgic fort on Inishmore
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1–100
On the north side of Inishmore stands Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort measuring 92 feet across. It is one of several ancient fortresses surviving on the largest Aran island.
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these islands are many more fortresses. There is, on the north side of Inishmore, Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort, measuring 92 feet across ; and on the south-west side, Dubh Cahn, " the black fort," a Dun or fortress of very rude masonry, of enormous thickness, and overlooking the cliffs.
The Christian remains of the islands are many, and
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala
As the companion tells it
Inishmore holds more than one ancient fortress. On its north side stands Dun Onaght, a circular Firbolgic fort measuring 92 feet across. Another fortress, Dubh Cahn, the black fort, stands on the south-west side, built of very rude masonry of enormous thickness, overlooking the cliffs.
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Earldom of Aran created for Richard Butler
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1662–1693
In 1662, Richard Butler, son of the first Duke of Ormonde, was created Earl of Aran. The title expired on his death without issue and was revived in 1693 for Lord Charles Butler.
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In the peerage we find that the earldom of Aran has been twice bestowed on families bearing different names. First in 1662, when Richard Butler (son of James, the twelfth Earl and first Duke of Ormonde) was created Earl of Aran. The honours of this nobleman having expired on his death without issue, the earldom was revived in 1693 in favour of Lord
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Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 24
As the companion tells it
The earldom of Aran was bestowed twice. First in 1662, Richard Butler, son of James, the twelfth Earl and first Duke of Ormonde, was created Earl of Aran. His honours expired on his death without issue, and the earldom was revived in 1693 in favour of Lord Charles Butler.
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Fortresses and villages of Inishmaan
Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway
The middle island of Inishmaan contains the ruins of two fortresses, Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, along with five villages. The island is two and a half miles in length.
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On the middle island of Inishmaan are the ruins of the fortresses of Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, and the villages, five in number. On the eastern island of Inisheer are St. Gobnet's chapel, Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, Trawkera, near which there is a lake a quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, which might be converted into a useful harbour by cutting an entrance into it through the rocky shore.
The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of which was moored during the tempestuous days of the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread ; so that nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2
As the companion tells it
Inishmaan is the middle of the three Aran islands, two and a half miles in length. On it stand the ruins of two fortresses, Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, and five villages. The eastern island, Inisheer, holds St. Gobnet's chapel and the villages of Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, and Trawkera. Near Trawkera is a lake, a quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, which the book notes might be converted into a useful harbour by cutting an entrance through the rocky shore. The harbour of Kilronan is spacious but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards runs out into the sea. During the tempestuous last week of July 1886, her Majesty's mail-boat was moored alongside it, a large-sized sailing yacht provided with a cabin and forecastle, manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. Yet no steamer had been placed on the line between Galway and Aran. Frequently, for four or five days, communication with the mainland became impossible. Letters remained unanswered, newspapers remained unread. The passage says nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace.
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St. Gobnet's chapel and sites of Inisheer
Inisheer · townland · Galway
The eastern island of Inisheer contains St. Gobnet's chapel along with the settlements of Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, and Trawkera. Near Trawkera is a deep lake a quarter mile in circumference that could potentially be converted into a harbour by cutting an entrance through the rocky shore.
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On the middle island of Inishmaan are the ruins of the fortresses of Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, and the villages, five in number. On the eastern island of Inisheer are St. Gobnet's chapel, Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, Trawkera, near which there is a lake a quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, which might be converted into a useful harbour by cutting an entrance into it through the rocky shore.
The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of which was moored during the tempestuous days of the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread ; so that nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here on the eastern island of Inisheer is St. Gobnet's chapel, along with the settlements of Ballyhees, Largi, Furmina, and Trawkera. Near Trawkera there is a lake, a quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, which might be converted into a useful harbour by cutting an entrance into it through the rocky shore. The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five hundred yards is built out into the sea. During the tempestuous days of the last week of July 1886, her Majesty's mail-boat was moored alongside it — a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer has as yet been placed on the line between Galway and Aran. Frequently, for four or five days, communication with the mainland becomes impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and newspapers remained unread. Nation might rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace remain unaware.
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Teampul-saght-Machree on Inishmaan
near Illaunane · townland · Galway
The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is described as an object of interest on the middle island (Inishmaan).
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are the remains of the seven churches, one of which is called Tedmpul Brecain — the church of St. Braccan, who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an object of interest on the middle island. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to have not unfrequently abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel
The churches are all of small dimensions — never more than sixty feet in length — at the eastern end of which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar was placed. Between the nave of the church and the chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, * I Sam. i. 9-17.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 13
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here is the ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree, on the middle island of Aran. The islanders also call it Inishmaan. This church is counted among the remains of the seven churches. One of those seven is called Teampul Brecain, the church of St. Braccan, who founded the monastery of Ardbraccan, now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. The eastern island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan, in honour of St. Coemhan, or St. Kevin, brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most renowned of the saints of Aran, and people believed he often abated storms after being piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands that the book says is worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are as yet unblessed with children. It tells of St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of old had in the temple of Silo, when the Lord bestowed on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards the prophet Samuel. The churches are all of small dimensions, never more than 60 feet in length. At the eastern end there is frequently a chancel where the altar was placed. Between the nave and the chancel was a semicircular chancel arch. These temples were very imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards.
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Sir Roebuck Lynch becomes proprietor of Aran islands
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1618
After Sir John Rawson's grant, the property and inheritance of the islands became vested in Sir Roebuck Lynch of Galway, likely through a mortgage foreclosure. In 1618, Henry Lynch demised a moiety of the three islands to William Anderson of Aran for a long term of years at an annual rent.
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A.D. 1618. "Indenture of June 2oth, between Henry Lynch, son and heir of Roebuck Lynch, of Galway, deceased, of the one part, and William Anderson, of Aran, in said county, of the other, whereby he, the said Henry Lynch, for and in consideration of a sum of j£$o of English currency to him paid, did thereby demise and assign all that and those, a moiety of the said three islands to him, the said William Anderson, his executors, administrators, and assigns, for a long term of years, excepting thereout" what must have then been in the islands, "great trees, mines, and minerals, and hawks, at an annual rent of ^3 Irish, and a proportion of port corn, as therein is set forth." A.D. 1641. The clan Tiege O'Briens still claimed the islands as their legitimate inheritance, and, taking
42 ARCHBISHOP O'QUEELY.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 20
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands passed to Sir Roebuck Lynch of Galway, likely through a mortgage foreclosure, after Sir John Rawson's grant. By 1618 Roebuck Lynch was dead. On June 20 of that year, his son and heir Henry Lynch made an indenture with William Anderson of Aran. For a sum of English currency paid to him, Henry Lynch demised a moiety of the three islands to William Anderson, his executors, administrators, and assigns, for a long term of years. He excepted what must have been in the islands then: "great trees, mines, and minerals, and hawks." The annual rent was 3 Irish and a proportion of port corn. In 1641 the clan Tiege O'Briens still claimed the islands as their legitimate inheritance.
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Hemp cultivation and divination customs
Inishmore · electoral division · Galway
The author notes hemp was not grown to any great extent in Aran, though sowing hemp seed on All Hallows' Eve or St. John's Night as a love divination ritual was practiced in some parts of Ireland. The ritual involved scattering seed while invoking the name of one's future love.
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Hemp. — I don't remember seeing hemp growing in Aran to any great extent. Sowing the seed of hemp
* 2 Kings xvii. 6.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 41
As the companion tells it
Inishmore is part of Aran, where the author did not recall hemp growing to any great extent. But sowing the seed of hemp was known in parts of Ireland as a divination on All Hallows' Eve or St. John's Night, the seed scattered while the sower called on the name of a future love.
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Killeany: ancient capital and seat of Iar Connaught lords
Killeany · townland · Galway
Killeany was the ancient capital of Inishmore and formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of Iar Connaught, before Kilronan became the principal village.
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Of Inishmore, or the great island, Kilronan is the capital — a village with a good hotel. Killeany was the ancient capital, formerly the residence of the lords of the manor of lar Connaught. The other places of note are Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun . Kngus, Dun Eochla, Dubh Chathair or the black fort. So also on that island are the ruins of the churches of Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group
4 THE ARAN MAIL-BOAT.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 2
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here lies Killeany, the ancient capital of Inishmore. Before Kilronan grew into the principal village, this was where the lords of the manor of Iar Connaught made their residence. Other places of note on the island include Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun Aongus, Dun Eochla, and Dubh Chathair, the black fort. The ruins of churches remain as well, among them Tempul Benin, with its rectangular enclosures.
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New pier construction on Inishmaan
Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886
Under the Poor Relief Ireland Act of 1886, a grant of £20,000 was expended on works in North and South Aran. The Board of Works was building a pier on the middle island of Aran.
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" I have been engaged all the summer, in conjunction with Colonel Fraser and Mr. Mahony, in expending a grant of ^20,000 in the scheduled unions under the provisions of the Poor Relief Ireland Act, 1886. We have carried out several works in North and South Aran. The Board of Works are building a pier in the middle island,
" Yours truly,
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 34
As the companion tells it
On Inishmaan, in 1886, a grant of £20,000 was spent under the Poor Relief Ireland Act on works across North and South Aran. The writer worked through the summer with Colonel Fraser and Mister Mahony on these schemes. The Board of Works was building a pier on this middle island of Aran.
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St. Brendan's visit to Aran before his Atlantic voyage
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
St. Brendan visited Aran to seek the blessing and knowledge of St. Enda before departing on his legendary voyage across the Atlantic. The poet Denis Florence MacCarthy described the visit, portraying Brendan sailing from shallow sandy Leigh and finding the saint waiting on the shore beneath Binn-Aite's rocky height.
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He led me to his home beside the wave,
Where with his monks the pious father dwelled,
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala
As the companion tells it
On the Aran Islands, Brendan came seeking Enda's blessing before his voyage across the Atlantic. The poet Denis Florence MacCarthy told of Brendan sailing from shallow sandy Leigh and finding Enda waiting on the shore beneath Binn-Aite's rocky height. Enda led Brendan, in the poet's words, "to his home beside the wave, where with his monks the pious father dwelled."
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Twenty-one national monuments on Aran
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway
There are twenty-one monuments, both pre-Christian and Christian, on the Aran islands, vested in the Secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland to be preserved as national monuments. Ruins of abbeys, monasteries, nunneries, cells, churches, schools, forts, forests, and towers are everywhere visible to the tourist.
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Of the monuments, as well pre-Christian as Christian, in these islands, there are twenty-one, vested in the secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland, to be preserved as national monuments, (See next page.)
Ruins everywhere meet the eye of the tourist in Aran — ruined abbeys, ruined monasteries, ruined nunneries, ruined cells, ruined churches, ruined schools, ruined forts, ruined forests, and ruined towers. With one exception the churches of Aran face the east. I heard somewhere, when on the islands, that that is not exactly true, but that they faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day that the foundation stone was laid. Be that as it may, there is the Oratory of St. Banon, which directly faces the
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 12
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands hold twenty-one national monuments, both pre-Christian and Christian, vested in the Secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland to be preserved. Ruins meet the eye everywhere. Ruined abbeys, ruined monasteries, ruined nunneries, ruined cells, ruined churches, ruined schools, ruined forts, ruined forests, and ruined towers. With one exception the churches face the east. It was said on the islands that they faced the point of the compass at which the sun rose on the day the foundation stone was laid. Be that as it may, there is the Oratory of St. Banon.
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Lighthouse on Inisheer
Inisheer · townland · Galway
On the south-west point of Inisheer is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height.
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On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, and in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 14
As the companion tells it
Close to Inisheer, on the south-west point of the island, stands a lighthouse showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. On the same island there is a signal tower, and near it an old castle on an eminence. There too is shown "the bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous cures. It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes was interred in the great island of Aran. The same is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance Survey, a work never printed, stowed away on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. In three or four volumes on the county of Galway are contained, in the English language, the inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of James I, and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as well as letters between Petrie and O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that survey.
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Aran Islands fishery — open row boats and curraghs
near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1886
A letter from Sir Thomas F. Brady, Inspector of Irish Fisheries, noted a large number of open row boats and curraghs on the three Aran islands. The author argued that the islanders needed schools for navigation, fishery science, and related trades rather than mere rent reduction.
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" I have your note here. There is a large number of open row boats and curraghs on the three
* Report of Inspectors of Irish Fisheries for 1887, p. 10.
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala, Chapter 33
As the companion tells it
The Aran Islands lie off the Galway coast. In 1886, Sir Thomas F. Brady, Inspector of Irish Fisheries, noted a large number of open row boats and curraghs on the three islands. The author of the book argued that what the islanders needed was schools for navigation, fishery science, and related trades, not mere rent reduction.
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Creggan-keel fort on Inisheer
Inisheer · townland · Galway
Inisheer, the easternmost of the Aran Islands, contains a circular fortification called Creggan-keel. The island also holds Furmena Castle, a later stronghold of the O'Briens, lords of the islands of Aran.
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Inisheer, the eastern island, contains a circular Dun called Creggan-keel. Furmena Castle, also on this island, was, in later times, the stronghold of the O'Briens — lords of the islands of Aran — and upon
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Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here on Inisheer, the eastern island, there is a circular dun called Creggan-keel. Furmena Castle also stands on this island. In later times it was the stronghold of the O'Briens, lords of the islands of Aran.
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Furmena Castle, O'Brien stronghold on Inisheer
Inisheer · townland · Galway
Furmena Castle on Inisheer was the stronghold of the O'Briens, who were lords of the islands of Aran in later times. It represents the medieval lordship of the islands following the earlier pagan fortifications.
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Inisheer, the eastern island, contains a circular Dun called Creggan-keel. Furmena Castle, also on this island, was, in later times, the stronghold of the O'Briens — lords of the islands of Aran — and upon
c
Internet Archive southislesofaran00burkiala
As the companion tells it
Somewhere around here on Inisheer stands Furmena Castle. In later times it was the stronghold of the O'Briens, lords of the islands of Aran. This island also holds a circular dun called Creggan-keel, marking an older presence on the same ground.
This book is in the public domain; how the books' rights are judged. The passages are quoted as the scan has them, spelling and all; a story's place is the gazetteer's best reading of the text and can be wrong.