Statistical survey of the county of Cork : with observations on the means of improvement ; drawn up for the consideration, and by the direction of the Dublin Society

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Baltimore sacked by Algerian pirates, 1631

   Baltimore · town · Cork · 1631

   Baltimore was once a borough town under a charter from James I. In 1631, two pirate vessels from Algiers entered the harbour at dead of night; their crews plundered the town and carried off a great number of inhabitants. Their treacherous conductor, a Dungarvan fisherman, was afterwards executed, but Baltimore never recovered from the disaster.

   Read the passage

   Baltimore was once a borough town> governed by ^sovereign and burgesses, under a charter granted by Japes the first, from whom this island derived taany political regulations. This distinction was probably obtained by the celebrity of its part, at a v time when the inner parts of die country were little cultivated. The cause of its honours was, however, as sometimes happens, the occasion of its ruin. In the year 1631, two piratical vessels from Algiers entered the harbour at deaiof night, the crews of which, roat satisfied with the plunder of the town, carried off a great number of the inhabitants* Their treacherous conductor, a Dungarvan fisherman, was afterwards executed, but Baltimore never recovered the effects of the disaster. Though the corporation fell into disuse, it still continued to send members to parliament until the union. The superior advantages of Skibbereen's more central situation leave it 2X2 without

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   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 117

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up now is Baltimore, the town the road passes through. It was once a borough town with a charter from James the First, governed by a sovereign and burgesses. That distinction probably came from the celebrity of its harbour, at a time when the inner parts of the country were little cultivated. But the cause of its honours became the occasion of its ruin. In 1631, two pirate vessels from Algiers entered the harbour at dead of night. Their crews were not satisfied with plundering the town. They carried off a great number of the inhabitants. Their treacherous conductor, a Dungarvan fisherman, was afterwards executed. But Baltimore never recovered from the disaster. The corporation fell into disuse, though it still sent members to parliament until the union. Skibbereen's more central situation left Baltimore without its former advantages.

2. Ballyvireen Court built by Sir Walter Copinger, destroyed 1641

   Ballyvireen · townland · Cork · 1638–1641

   Ballyvireen Court, west of Rosscarbery, was built around 1638 by Sir Walter Copinger, a man of great property and influence who, according to local tradition, never inhabited it. Smith records it was destroyed in the 1641 rebellion; the lands are now the estate of Lord Carbery.

   Read the passage

   The former, called a castle, belonged to a family of the name of Archdeacon ; the latter, which the common people know by the name of Ballyvireen-court, was built by Sir Walter Copinger, a man of great property and influence, who, according to local tradition, never inhabited it. Smith says it was destroyed in the rebellion of 1641. — the lands are now the estate of Lord Carbery, The walls of both are in good preservation.

   jSpme of the old castles remain entire, and are still inhabited. The principal, of these are Blarney, Macromp, and Lohort. The first belonging to Charles St John Jeffries, Esq. is pne of the finest buildings of this description, and was once the favourite residence of the earls of Clancarty, by -an ancestor of whom it was built. It stands on a limestone rock, under which a river flows, and on the other side is surrounded by Ipfty trees, over Mj^ich the castle proudly tower?. To this, as well as to some others, a duelling house, the addition of m#re tranquil times, has been joined, by which means its accommodation is not inferior to its magnificence. That -of Macromp is also a stately building, lately repaired, and suitably furnished, by Robert Hedges Eyre, Esq. the present possessor. The castle of Lohort, a few miles north-west of Mallow, stands embosomed in trees, on a high and commanding

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 48

3. Sullivan the horse-tamer of Duhallow

   Duhallow · barony · Cork

   A man named Sullivan possessed an extraordinary faculty for taming vicious horses in half an hour, working in private and without visible coercion. Despite lucrative offers to practise his art abroad, he refused to leave Duhallow, devoted entirely to hunting with the fox-hounds.

   Read the passage

   after Sullivan's half-hour lecture, I went, not without some incredulity, tathe smith's shop, with many other curious spectators, where we were eye-witnesses of the complete success of his art. This top had been a troop horse, and it was supposed, not without reason, that, after regimental discipline had failed, no other would be found availing. I observed that the animal appeared terrified, whenever Sullivan either spoke or looked at him ; how that extraordinary ascendancy could have been obtained, it is difficult to conjecture. In common cases this mysterious preparation was unnecessary. He seemed to possess an instinctive power of inspiring awe, the result, perhaps, of a natural intrepidity, in which, I believe, a great part of his art consisted, though the circumstance of the tete-a-tete shews that upon particular occasions something more must have been added to it A faculty, like this, would in other hands have made a fortune, and I understand that great offers have been made to him for the exercise of his art abroad. But hunting was his passion. He lived at home, in the stile most agreeable to his disposition, and nothing could induce him to quit Duhallow and the fox-hounds.

   Since I visited Duhallow, I have been informed

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 150

4. Doneen Castle on a vanishing island in Ross Bay

   Dooneen · townland · Cork

   Doneen Castle, though small, is notable for its position on what is now a tiny island in Ross Bay. When built it formed part of the mainland, but the sea has since washed away the ground on the north side, leaving the castle without foundation there. The south side and parts of the east and west walls still stand.

   Read the passage

   to be the property of lime and gravel cement to improve in cohesion, as it advances in age. Don* neen castle, though a very small one, deserves to be particularly mentioned for the singularity of its present position. It stands upon what is now a very small island in Ross bay, but whicli, when the ca** tie was built, made part of the main land. The sea has since washed away the ground on the land side of it in such a manner, as to leave the castle without any foundation on the north side. The south side and part of the east and west walls are still standing. It was usual to build casdes upon peninsula*, where the approach from the land side was very narrow, in order to make them more easily defepsible; such, no doubt, was the case of this.

   Such appears to be the stile of buildings erected by men of power and opulence, previous to the seventeenth century. Another mode began to prevail in the succeeding age, which to a considerable shara of strength and solidity added a superior degree of architectural beauty and domestic accommodation.

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 48

5. French armament of 1796 anchors off Whiddy Island

   Whiddy · electoral division · Cork · 1796

   The second division of the great French armament that threatened these shores in 1796 came to anchor on the north-west quarter of Whiddy Island. Though they remained a long time expecting to be joined by the rest of the fleet, they never set foot on shore. Their boats were often seen rowing about the bay, probably taking soundings.

   Read the passage

   The second division of that great French armament, which threatened these shores in 1796, came to anchor on the nordi-west quarter of this island, and though they remained a long time in expectation of being joined by the rest, it is very remarkable

   * Since the above account was written, an advertisement has appeared in the newspapers, specifying the lots, and inviting proposals. The present property is, it seems, in Lord LonguevUIe, but it is a part of the Bantry estate.

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 132

6. O'Leary of Millstreet: last of the old Irish hospitable gentry

   Millstreet · town · Cork

   A remarkable figure known as O'Leary, head of a respectable old Irish family near Millstreet, was one of the last to maintain the ancient style of open hospitality. He lived modestly, kept his parlour and cellar open to all guests at every season, and maintained order at fairs by his commanding presence alone.

   Read the passage

   The mention of Milktreet brings to my recollection a remarkable personage once well known in its vicinity, a short account of whom may not be unacceptable. As the bead of a respectable old Irish family he was known only by the name of ♦O'Leary, and was one of the last of that description, who affected the antient style of hospitable living. 'This too he was enabled to accomplish on a moderate fortune, as his hospitality was unencumbered with equipage or parade* He lived in a small house, the lower part consisting of little more than a parlour and kitchen, the former of which, properly supplied with every article of good cheer, was open to every guest, and at every season ; 4 Q 2 and

   * AtBonf the old Irish families O* is a title of honourable distinction. Mr. is applied only to the younger branches. The head of the house is never called but by the surname with the O prefixed, as O'Donovan, CDriscol, fee Formerly I believe the O was never assumed by any other of the family ; they were simply Mr.' Donovan, Mr. Driscoll, fcc. Now however the O is become more common.

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 235

7. Failed Blackwater canal from Fermoy to Lismore

   Fermoy · townland · Cork

   Mr. Anderson secured over £20,000 in subscriptions from gentlemen contiguous to the Blackwater for a canal from Fermoy to Lismore. Engineer Major Taylor confirmed the cost would not exceed that sum, but the project was abandoned when some gentlemen refused to part with the necessary ground.

   Read the passage

   consequent diminution of land-carriage, in all ex* ports and imports. Under a perfect conviction of these truths, Mr. Anderson exerted himself so effectually in the business some years ago, that •f 2 0,000, and upwards, was subscribed by the gentlemen contiguous to the Blackwater, and the expence of a navigation from Fermoy to Lismore was ascertained by Major Taylor, the engineer employed for the purpose, not to exceed that sum ; but it ' was at the same time ascertained, that not less than Jour times that amount would have been necessary to carry the canal from Fermoy to Mallow. The former cut was abandoned, from the refusal of some gentlemen to part with the ground necessary for it to pass through ; but, unless the canal could have been carried farther up the country than Fermoy at a moderate expence, it is a matter of some doubt, whether so short a cut as twelve miles could have been of any great public benefit^ or even defrayed the expence of construction. But, be that as it may, it is evident that Fermoy must forego the advantages pf water-carriage for the present ; apt! the only thing remaining was, to improve the road from thence to Tallow, a little below which begins the navigation of the river Bride, which flows into the Blackwater. This has been dtine by discovering a new line of road, which, by avoiding the bills, enables

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 173

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, there was once a plan to cut a canal from Fermoy to Lismore along the Blackwater. Mr. Anderson took up the business some years ago and exerted himself so effectually that over 20,000 pounds was subscribed by the gentlemen contiguous to the Blackwater. Major Taylor, the engineer employed for the purpose, ascertained that the expense of the navigation from Fermoy to Lismore would not exceed that sum. He found at the same time that carrying the canal from Fermoy to Mallow would have needed not less than four times that amount. The shorter cut to Lismore was then abandoned, because some gentlemen refused to part with the ground necessary for it to pass through. Whether so short a cut as twelve miles could have been of any great public benefit, or even defrayed the expense of construction, is a matter of some doubt, unless the canal could have been carried farther up the country than Fermoy at a moderate expense. Be that as it may, Fermoy must forego the advantages of water-carriage for the present. The only thing remaining was to improve the road from Fermoy to Tallow, a little below which begins the navigation of the river Bride, which flows into the Blackwater.

8. Fermoy's rise from mean village to prosperous town

   Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1791–1809

   In 1791, when John Anderson acquired the Fermoy estate, it was one of the meanest villages in County Cork, consisting of wretched mud-wall huts with idle and poor inhabitants. Under Anderson's enlightened speculations and constant superintendence, the town was transformed into a neat, regular settlement by 1809.

   Read the passage

   the Blackwater. It owes its rise, progress, ind present prosperity entirely to the accident of the estate having fallen into the hands of its present worthy proprietor, John Anderson, Esq. This event happened in 1791, at which time it was one of the meanest villages of the county ; as* with the exception of a single house of two stories, which served the purposes of a carman's inn, it consisted of only wretched mud-wall huts, long since levelled, the inhabitants of which were proverbially idle and dissolute, and consequently dirty and poor. The estate too seemed to partake of the general poverty of the village, being scarcely worth more on an average thau from a guinea to thirty shillings an acre, which now lets at five pounds. Except, in short, the beauty of its situation, of which nature had been peculiarly lavish, the place did not offer a single circumstance to arrest the eye of the traveller, who drove through it without observation, and scarcely reasons bered to have met with such a spot on the road.1'

   " The striking change, that has now taken place, must, in a great measure, be attributed to the village having been converted into a military station for the last twelve years ; for no longer is it ago, since the town began to be built. To this government were induced, from its central situation amidst a rich and plentiful country ; from its proximity to

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 165

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here on the Blackwater, Fermoy owes its rise and prosperity to one event. In 1791 the estate fell into the hands of John Anderson. At that time this was one of the meanest villages in the county. With the exception of a single house of two stories that served as a carman's inn, it consisted of only wretched mud-wall huts, long since levelled. The inhabitants were proverbially idle and dissolute, and consequently dirty and poor. The estate too seemed to partake of the general poverty, being scarcely worth more on average than from a guinea to thirty shillings an acre, which now lets at five pounds. Except the beauty of its situation, of which nature had been peculiarly lavish, the place did not offer a single circumstance to arrest the eye of the traveller, who drove through it without observation, and scarcely remembered to have met with such a spot on the road. The striking change that has now taken place must in great measure be attributed to the village having been converted into a military station for the last twelve years. It was no longer ago than that the town began to be built. Government was induced to do this from its central situation amidst a rich and plentiful country.

9. Settlement and land reclamation at Kildinin demesne

   Kildinan · townland · Cork

   Mr. Roche settled tenants on waste land at Kildinin, where they paid rent through labour on the demesne for the first fourteen years before paying in money. Settlers were allowed turf from a neighbouring bog and pasture on the mountain, transforming a bleak waste into cultivated farmland through secure leases and light rents.

   Read the passage

   When the first seven years were expired, the tenants were allowed to work as labourers on tha demesne of Kildinin, and paid their rent in this manjier for the next seven years, which Mr. Roche permitted, from the great demand for labourers to carry on his own improvements, and from conceiving that the settlers, having how finished the inclosing of their own little farms, might have leisure to at* tend to his.

   From the end of the first fourteen years to the termination of the lease, they paid their rent in money. They were allowed as much turf for their private use as they chose to burn, a most useful article in a situation so bleak. They were also permitted to pasture the neighbouring riiountain with their sheep and cattle. With such encouragement, v N it was interesting to observe with what alacrity these settlers laboured, each in his little farm, from a certainty of enjoying the fruits of his labour, fromthe security of a good lease, a light rent, and, in a word, from that love of property and independence, 4 0 2 which

   Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 213

10. Labacolly monument dimensions and giant's tomb tradition

    Glanworth · town · Cork

    The larger incumbent stone of the Labacolly monument measures about sixteen feet long, six and a half feet broad, and three feet thick. Local people believe treasure is hidden there, and the monument is popularly considered a giant's tomb due to its enormous dimensions. The stones are limestone from the local rock, not grit brought from distant mountains as Smith claimed.

    Read the passage

    range of smaller ones. One of the incumbent stones, which is flat underneath, And rises on the upper side like a roof, measures about sixteen feet in length, six and a half m breadth, and three feet in thickness at its middle. This stone covers the west end, and retains pretty nearly its original position. The other, which is about half its size, has been displaced apparently in consequence of the supporters givibg way. Perhaps k may have been disturbed by a search for treasure, which the common people still think is to be found there. The supporting stones, which resemfefc large flags, are regularly placed, the flat side being turned to the vault, which is still htflow and ver£ spacious. It is about six feet wide, and in its original state might have been about twenty-fire feet long. The vulgar notion of its being a giant's tomb, if not founded in truth, is at least not destitute of probability from its enormous dimensions. If intended for the repository of a single body, as was usually the case, nothing less than a giant could have occupied so great a space. The position is nearly east and west, which induced Smith to think it was erected after the introduction Of Christianity, but that form of sepulture was by no means peculiar to christians. At the west end is a very large stone closing the entrance to the vault. The Q difficulty

    u4 Statistical survey

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 36

11. Pilchard fishery and its decline at Bantry Bay

    Bantry · town · Cork · 1700–1750

    In the early 1700s, Bantry Bay abounded with pilchards, and the catching and curing trade brought wealth and employment to many. By 1750 the pilchards had deserted the bay, and the gradual disappearance of herrings and sprats left the coast without any meaningful fishery.

    Read the passage

    From a district of this description little will be expected for the catalogue of towns, fine seats, or cultivated country. The remote situation of Bantry, notwithstanding its proximity to such a bay, seems to preclude it from emerging above the obscurity of a little country town. The original cause of prosperity, and which would now be capable of conferring it in no ordinary degree, has long ceased. In the beginning of the last century, the bay abounded with pilchards, the catching and curing of which gave, even at that time, wealth aud employment to numbers, as many remaining vestiges of the houses employed for this purpose sufficiently attest. Before Smith's time (1750,)

    they

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 135

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Bantry, this was once a place that owed its living to the bay. In the early 1700s, the bay abounded with pilchards. The catching and curing of them gave wealth and employment to numbers of people. The remains of the houses used for curing the fish can still be seen. But before 1750, the pilchards had gone. The original cause of prosperity, which would now be capable of conferring it in no ordinary degree, had long ceased. The gradual disappearance of herrings and sprats left the coast without any meaningful fishery.

12. Roche's reclamation of Kildinin mountain waste

    Kildinan · townland · Cork

    Mr. Roche reclaimed 840 acres of waste mountain land at Kildinin, transforming it from a wild and unpromising situation into a fine gentleman's residence richly furnished with plantations. The land was held under a long lease from his brother Edward Roche of Trabulgar.

    Read the passage

    industrious a3siduky. Wild and unpromising as the situation must have been, previous to the commence* inent of bis labours, Kildinin is now a very fine place richly furnished with plantation, and in all respects a suitable residence for a gentleman of fortune. It is at present in the possession of his son Edward Roche, Esq. by whom the improvements, particularly in the article of plantation, are carefully supported. For die following account of that undertaking I am indebted to the kindness of Dc Milner Barry, to whom, besides his professional services, the public owe much useful information on the subject of agriculture. *

    Dr. Barry s Account of Mr. Roche's Improvements.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 212

13. Annual pilgrimage to bathe in Gougane Barra's sacred waters

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Large numbers of people annually assembled at Gougane Barra to bathe in the sacred waters and offer vows to St. Finbar. On visitation days in summer the multitude of booths and tents gave the place the appearance of a great fair, though the Catholic clergy were beginning to discourage such meetings.

    Read the passage

    cataract and waterfall. Inchigeelah lake from the great disproportion of its breadth to its length, which extends near three miles, lias more the appearance of a broad river, sometimes narrowing and sometimes expanding its channel. The n<w live beauty of these lakes has been niuch impaired by the loss of their timber, which even the solitaiy remoteness of their situation has not been able to preserve from the hand of the 'destroyer. Thirty years ago they might have almost vied, upon a smaller scale, with the rich scenery of Ki^larney itself. Besides the woodlands, which skirted the lake, the little islands, of which Inchigeelah has several, were then adorned with trees and shrubs. Of ail this variety of sylvan decoration scarce a ▼eetige is now remaining. Notwithstanding the rude and sequestered nature of the situation, there axe many inhabitants in the neighbourhood of Gougane Barra, one eause of which may be the great eoncoarse of people annually assembling to bathe im the sacred waters*, and offer up their vows to the titular saint* The very wildness of the scene, fa- WttraJbde to impressions of religious veneration, probably contributed not a little to the long contiauancQ of these holy rites. To this may be added the remoteaess of the place, rendering a pilgrimage U> such, scenes an act in itself of no ordinary degree

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    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 226

14. Cromwell's bridge at Glengarriff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    A river abounding with salmon and sea trout runs through Glengarriff glen, passed by a good stone bridge attributed to Cromwell and still bearing his name. The author questions what could have been worth the trouble of building it on the west side of the river. The usual mode of visiting Berehaven was by water from Bantry, taking four or five hours with a fair wind.

    Read the passage

    A river, abounding with salmon and sea trout, runs through this- glen, in dry weather, (a* Johnson observes of a similar situation) " fretting over the as* ferities of a rocky bottom/9 when swollen with rains, rolling a torrent of frightful magnitude into the bay. It is passed by a good stone bridge, attributed to Cromwell, and still bearing his name, though it should seem, that nothing to be gained on the west side of the river could have been worth the trouble of the undertaking. The usual mode of visiting Bearbaven, even now, is by water, the voyage from Bantry, with a tolerable fair wind, being made in four or fire hours. The distance by land along the old pass, which 1 have traveled, was thirty miles ; but, expedition being impracticable from the ruggedness of the way, the time required to perform it, even for an active traveller, was from ten to twelve hours. The distance has been reduced, and the communication greatly facilitated of late, by a now line of road.

    From Glangarriffe westward, some places excepted that skirt along the margin of the bay, to the furthest extremity of the Durzey islands, the ground is coarse, mountainous, and rocky beyond description. Population, however, even here has made great advances, and with it the tillage necessary to its wants. Rude as it is, the produce of the rents 3 e h

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 134

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Glengarriff, a river runs through the glen, abounding with salmon and sea trout. In dry weather it frets over the asperities of a rocky bottom, but when swollen with rains it rolls a torrent of frightful magnitude into the bay. It is passed by a good stone bridge, attributed to Cromwell, and still bearing his name, though it should seem that nothing to be gained on the west side of the river could have been worth the trouble of the undertaking. The usual mode of visiting Berehaven, even now, is by water. The voyage from Bantry, with a tolerable fair wind, is made in four or five hours. The distance by land along the old pass was thirty miles, but expedition was impracticable from the ruggedness of the way, and the time required to perform it, even for an active traveller, was from ten to twelve hours. The distance has been reduced and the communication greatly facilitated of late by a new line of road. From Glengarriff westward, some places excepted that skirt along the margin of the bay, to the furthest extremity of the Dursey islands, the ground is coarse, mountainous, and rocky beyond description. Population, however, even here has made great advances, and with it the tillage necessary to its wants.

15. Fermoy as a mail-coach hub

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    Fermoy served as a central hub for mail and stage coaches running between Cork, Dublin, and Limerick. This transportation trade employed around 100 to 120 horses daily, along with numerous post boys and stable hands.

    Read the passage

    ent descriptions. The flourishing state of this little branch of trade has not arisen merely from a post* office having been established at Fermoy, but that the business of furnishing the mail-coach horses was naturally committed to people resident in that town : nor can it be supposed improper in the individual, who was the chief instrument of establishing these useful vehicles in Ireland, to make them stop at his own village, particularly as it happened to be much more central between Cork and Clogheen, than any other place oq. the road. The public carriages, that pass through Fermoy, every twentyfour hours, are the following. 1. The mail-coach from Dublin to Cork ; 2. the mail-coach from Cork to Dublin. — These two pass each other at Fermoy during the night 3. The mail-coach from Cork to Limerick. 4. The mail-coach from Limerick to Cork. — These two pass through at Fermoy, the former about ten in the morning, and the latter about two o'clock in the day. 5. The day-coaches from Dublin to Cork, and from Cork to Dublin, pass, at present, only every second day upward* and downwards ; but, as soon as the other day-coach on the Cashel line of road is established, they will pass each other every day. There are thus, at present, five, and there soon* will be six public stagecoaches

    * The preparations are completed for thw coach, which will start about the middle of June.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 172

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Fermoy was the hub for the mail coaches that ran between Cork, Dublin, and Limerick. The trade grew up because the person who was the chief instrument of establishing mail coaches in Ireland happened to live here, and he made them stop at his own village. As the survey puts it, this was particularly natural since Fermoy happened to be much more central between Cork and Clogheen than any other place on the road. The business of furnishing the mail-coach horses was committed to people resident in the town. Every twenty-four hours, five public carriages passed through. The Dublin to Cork mail and the Cork to Dublin mail passed each other here during the night. The Cork to Limerick mail came through about ten in the morning, and the Limerick to Cork mail about two in the day. The day-coaches from Dublin to Cork and back passed only every second day at the time, though the survey notes that as soon as another day-coach on the Cashel line was established, they would pass each other every day. So there were five stagecoaches at the time the survey was written, and soon there would be six.

16. Funeral howling custom in County Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    In County Cork, women practice the ancient custom of howling at funerals, attending gatherings of the deceased even if wholly unconnected to them. The cries continue from death until the grave is closed, except during the wake, which resembles a mirthful gathering with liquor and tobacco.

    Read the passage

    lower classes. These prevailing causes of increasing population are further promoted byth^jrlove of fcomd, and the universal custom of inoculating children for the small-pox, a disorder, Which was once little less injurious in its ravages than the plague. ~ Of peculiar customs, derived from antiquity, some setuains are to be found. In addition to those already observed, the most remarkable is that of howling at funerals still practised in this county, by women only, a certain number of whom attend at every funeral, and, though often wholly unconnected with the deceased, break out at intervals into pas* sionate shrieks of Iqrid lamentation. The cries commence at the death of the person, and are continued occasionally until the grave is closed, except on the night before interment, called the wake, when the meeting his more the complexion of mirth than sorrow. The room, where the body is kid out dressed in white, is 61Ied with people, re* gating themselves with liquor and tobacco, and chatting on various topics, one»of which is the praise 6f tbe (Jec^a^ed. Their attachment to this custom is so strong as frequently to expose them to great danger, no apprehension of infection from the most malignant disease being sufficient to prevent their crowding into the houses of the deceased. In every class of life, except where privacy is express-

    OF,THE«O0KTY OF CORK. *l

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 30

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this is a county where an old custom still runs deep. Women here practice the howling at funerals. A certain number of women attend every funeral, even when they have no connection at all to the person who has died. They break out at intervals into passionate shrieks of loud lamentation. These cries begin at the moment of death and continue, on and off, until the grave is closed. The one exception is the night before burial, the wake. That gathering has more the complexion of mirth than sorrow. The body is laid out dressed in white, and the room fills with people helping themselves to liquor and tobacco. They chat on various topics, and one of those topics is the praise of the deceased. Their attachment to this custom is so strong it frequently exposes them to great danger. No fear of infection from the most malignant disease is enough to keep them from crowding into the houses of the dead.

17. Kinsale fishery with hundreds of hookers

    Kinsale · town · Cork

    The great marine establishment of Kinsale is its fishery, employing three or four hundred boats called hookers of about twenty tons each, supplying fish to Cork, Kinsale, and Bandon markets. The fishermen live almost entirely in their boats and are exempt from impress.

    Read the passage

    The harbour of Kinsale, though much less capacious than that of Cork, is one of the most compact and secure, that can well be imagined. It is of 3} v round form, with a long and deep entrance from the south, and perfectly landlocked by high land surrounding it in every direction. It has a strong fort on the east side, and was formerly the principal naval depot, having a dock-yard and store-house. These have been transferred to Cork harbour, since that has been rendered secure by so many new works. Kinsale derives little advantage in the way of trade from so fine a harbour. The superior situation of Cork engrosses the foreign commerce, and supplies this town with all commodities of this nature. Something is done here in the import of coal, and in the coasting trade, but the great marine establishment of Kinsale is its fishery. Three or four hundred boats, called hookers, generally of

    about

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 195

18. Old castle of the Fitzgeralds at Castlemartyr demesne

    Castlemartyr · townland · Cork

    The old castle in the Earl of Shannon's demesne near Castlemartyr, covered with ivy and surrounded by lofty trees, was formerly a seat of the Fitzgeralds, seneschals of Imokilly. It appears to have been a large building and forms the striking first object on the approach from the town.

    Read the passage

    pendages, covered to the summit with ivy, and surrounded by lofty trees. This appears to have been a large building, and was formerly a seat of the Fitzgeralds seneschals of Imokilly. Under the castle, and at a little distance from it, flows a branch of the canal from a very neat bridge/ which separates the lower from the upper canal. Along its banks is a gravel walk and shrubbery, dressed in the neatest order. On the right is a high sloping bank, richly covered with evergreens, and backed with wood. A^ little above is what may be called the upper lake, and beyond it a fine view of the more distant parts of the demesne. The house lies a little beyond this bridge, upon the west side of the castle, an irregular building; added to at different times, and constructed more with a view to accommodation than ornament. If, however, it has little of beauty to recommend it from without, few dwellings possess more of comfort and convenience within. The dining-room is very spacious and elegant, and the drawing-room altogether superb* It is a double cube, 50 feet long, 25 wide, and 25 high, and, from the circumstance of having two fireplaces in one of the side walls, as comfortable as it is spacious. The pleasure grounds are chiefly along the banks of the lower canal; but such is the happiness of arrangement through the whole of this exv tensive

    «30 STATISTICAL SURVEY

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 222

19. Rock Mills on the Funcheon transform open grazing country

    Doneraile · townland · Cork · 1775

    The Rock mills were erected on the Funcheon river by Lord Doneraile and Mr. Aldworth about thirty-five years before the survey, marking the first such undertaking in this part of Cork. Their success, initially driven by the flour bounty to Dublin, transformed the area from open grazing to enclosed, tilled, and densely inhabited land.

    Read the passage

    favourable direction of the rivers, the Blackwater y washing the whole extent of the southern side, the Awbeg and Funcheon supplying the north side and the centre. This was formerly an open grazing country ; it is now inclosed, tilled, and almost as full / of inhabitants as the lands along the sea coast The commencement of this change may be dated from the erection of the Rock mills on the Funcheon, by the late Lord Doneraile, and Mr. Aldwortb, about thirty-five years since. Their encouragement to the undertaking, the first, by several years, in this part of the county, was the bounty on land c$r- j riage of flour to Dublin, which, during the continuance of that bounty, received almost the entire produce of those mills. Cork, which has since been found nearly adequate to die consumption of the numerous bolting mills erected since that period, was then little looked to as a market. It was supplied from a few mills in the town and neighbourhood, and in the extraordinary increase of its demand affords an ample proof of its great increase in wealth and population. The success of Mr. Aldworth's establishment, which still maintains its character and credit, induced many persons to follow the example, and, though the profits are necessarily much reduced by the cessation of the , 3 M 2 bounty,

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    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 154

20. Ross Carbery Abbey described

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork

    The abbey at Ross Carbery is described as the oldest religious edifice of its kind in the area, celebrated from a very early period as a seat of piety and learning. Its situation on a rocky, verdant eminence partly insulated by the tide is praised, with the bay of Ross sheltered by the Galleyhead promontory. Only two side walls of what appears to have been a chapel remain, built of field stones with strong mortar in a plain but neatly executed Saxon style.

    Read the passage

    it bore, being called Gill-abbey. Of all those religious houses scarcely any remains are now visible, probably in consequence of being situated in a populous town, and affording, after their original uses had ceased, convenient materials for house-building. Under such circumstances it is unnecessary to detain the reader with an enumeration of their names or designations. Youghall had two founded in the thirteenth century by the Fitzgeralds, but presenting nothing worthy of particular notice. The oldest edifice of this kind is the abbey at' Ross Carbery, a place celebrated, at a very early period, as a seat of piety and learning. The situation of this abbey was happily chosen. It stands upon a rocky, but verdant eminence, declining to the south, and partly insulated by the tide. In front is a strand of some extent, and beyond it the bay of Ross, sheltered on the east by the promontory of the Galleyhead. On each side of the strand, the land, which is very fertile, rises to a considerable height, sometimes abrupt, but more generally with a gradual acclivity. Even now the situation is fine; when the country was adorned with native woods, it must have been eminently beautiful. Of this venerable structure there remain only two side walls of what appears to have been a chapel. It was lighted from the ends, there being but one very small and narrow window,

    ia

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Ross Carbery in Cork, it passes near the oldest religious edifice of its kind in the area. Other religious houses in this part of Cork have scarcely any remains visible, probably because they stood in populous towns and afforded convenient materials for house-building after their original uses ceased. But this abbey, celebrated at a very early period as a seat of piety and learning, still has something to show. Its situation was happily chosen. It stands on a rocky but verdant eminence, declining to the south, partly insulated by the tide. In front is a strand of some extent, and beyond it the bay of Ross, sheltered on the east by the promontory of the Galleyhead. On each side of the strand the land, very fertile, rises to a considerable height, sometimes abrupt, but more generally with a gradual acclivity. Even now the situation is fine; when the country was adorned with native woods, it must have been eminently beautiful. Of this venerable structure there remain only two side walls of what appears to have been a chapel. It was lighted from the ends, there being but one very small and narrow window.

21. Sunday school controversy at Mitchelstown

    Mitchelstown · townland · Cork

    A Sunday school at Mitchelstown was initially attended by Catholic children without denominational instruction. When Lady Kingston ordered it moved to the church, Catholic children were withdrawn; though the school returned to the market house, the priest maintained the prohibition, and a weaving and spinning school similarly closed.

    Read the passage

    comment, the circumstances communicated by the reverend and respectable gentleman abovementioned, who was then rector of the parish of Mitchelstown. The only observation I shall make is, to express a hope that the obstructions complained of (the more surprising at a time, when liberty of principle is so generally and loudly professed,) are rather particular than systematic, more imputable to the narrow-minded jealousy of a single member, than the sentiments of the body, to which he belongs. From the Sunday school, at first so numerously attended, and where no particular creed was taught, the Catholic children were withdrawn, when Lady Kingston ordered it to be held in the church. — Walls have been said to have eyes and ears ; in this instance it seems to have been feared, that they might have tongues also. The offensive objection, however, was removed, and the children were sent back to the market house, notwithstanding which the prohibition was continued by order of the priest. On the weavfng and spinning school a similar inhibition was laid, because the mistress, a protestant, read prayers to the children. The prayers were admitted to be unexceptionable, and, to remove any possible shadow of objection, Dr. Austen proposed to join the reverend gentleman in composing a form of prayer for the purpose. This

    christian

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 186

22. Ancient caves at Rosscarbery, old seat of religious worship

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork

    At Rosscarbery, described as a very old seat of religious worship, extensive ancient caves were found containing many small chambers bearing evident marks of fire and connected by narrow passages. At the time of writing the caves were closed up and had not been thoroughly explored, so their full number and extent remained unknown.

    Read the passage

    sion to enhance the sanctity of their character*. Tripods and caves were the places, from whence oracles were delivered of old, and they bear a striking, though not, as I know, noticed, analogy to our vaults and trilithons. At Ross Carbery, a very old seat of religious worship, are caves of much greater size and extent than that at Temple Brien. In these (at present closed up) were discovered many small chambers, bearing evident marks of fire, and connected by narrow passages. Some of them are very far beneath the present surface, but, not having been thoroughly explored, their number and extent is unknown. They certainly are very ancient, and it is difficult to account for works of such construction at so early an age upon any other than religious principle. Comfort and convenience might be attained with such infinite inferiority of trouble, that one can hardly believe them to have been constructed for private uses. A sacred designation will therefore be deemed most probable, especially when we consider how powerfully the exertions of men may be stimulated by religious influence, Where superstition prescribed the task, no difficulty was too great to be surmounted The German caves, described by Tacitus, had no reference to religion : they, like the vaults of our raths, were of much smaller dimensions, and made for domestic purposes,

    , The

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Ross Carbery in Cork, you are passing a very old seat of religious worship. Beneath this place lie caves of much greater size and extent than the one at Temple Brien. They were closed up at the time of writing, but inside, many small chambers had been discovered, each bearing evident marks of fire, connected one to another by narrow passages. Some of these chambers lie very far beneath the present surface. They had not been thoroughly explored, so their full number and extent remained unknown. They are certainly very ancient, and the writer found it difficult to account for works of such construction at so early an age upon any principle other than a religious one. Comfort and convenience, he reasoned, might be attained with far less trouble, so one can hardly believe the caves were constructed for private use. A sacred purpose seemed most probable, especially when considering how powerfully the exertions of men may be stimulated by religious influence. Where superstition prescribed the task, no difficulty was too great to be surmounted. The German caves described by Tacitus, by contrast, had no reference to religion. They, like the vaults of Irish raths, were of much smaller dimensions and made for domestic purposes.

23. Cape Clear signal tower shaken by storm

    Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    The signal tower on Cape Clear, built in an exposed situation, was so violently rocked by a tempest shortly after its erection that the lieutenant stationed there, despite being accustomed to storms, seriously considered abandoning his post.

    Read the passage

    * The .peculiar viol* nee of I he gales, by which this island I* assailed, may be conceived from the following circumstance. All the signal towers on the coast are necessarily placed upon very exposed situations, and of course built in the strongest manner. That of Cape was so rocked and shook by a tem|>est, a little after its erection, that the lieutenant of the tower, familiarized as he was, by his professi* n, to the raging of the storm, was so alarmed as to entertain serious thoughts of abandoning his post.

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    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 104

24. Dunmore copper mine venture near Clonakilty

    Dunmore · townland · Cork

    A copper mine at Dunmore near Clonakilty, once previously worked, was reopened after a Cornish miner's favourable report persuaded local gentlemen to invest. The ore proved to be pyrites with little copper, and the venture was abandoned after spending about £500.

    Read the passage

    He affected to perceive a striking analogy between this country and that, from wluch he came, and having heard of a copper mine at Dunmore, near Cloghnikilty, that had once been worked, went to visit it. The report he made was so favourable, and his promises of success so confident, that Several gentlemen of the vicinity were prevailed upon to become partners in the undertaking. — Means were immediately provided, on terms very favourable to the promoter, who subscribed nothing

    . but

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog

25. Fermoy Dispensary and House of Recovery

    Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1803

    A dispensary and house of recovery for the poor was established at Fermoy in 1803, treating over 300 cases in its first year with only nine deaths. The institution relied on subscriptions, charity sermons, and theatrical benefits, and aimed to extend its benefits to the surrounding country.

    Read the passage

    " A dispensary and house of recovery for the poor have likewise existed for a number of years at Fermoy. The scheme was projected in 1803, and a house allotted rent free by the proprietor, to serve as a temporary hospital for interns. It was put under the care of a physician of character, who had settled in the place, and during the first year of his attendance not less than three hundred cases fell under his cognizance, of which one hundred were surgical, the rest exhibiting all the various kinds and stages of disease. Only nine out of the whole were known to have died, but two hundred and forty-eight were perfectly cured, The promoters of this humane institution, on the death of this gentleman, which unhappily soon followed, were obliged 3 T 2 to

    * Mr. Twee dale, at present in Youghal. f The present schoolmaster'* name is Brabazon, who has one? hundred and fifty scholars, whom he instructs all himself, according to the plan.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 175

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around Fermoy, a dispensary and house of recovery for the poor was projected in 1803. The proprietor allotted a house rent free to serve as a temporary hospital for interns. It was put under the care of a physician of character, who had settled in the place. During the first year of his attendance, not less than 300 cases fell under his care, of which 100 were surgical, the rest exhibiting all the various kinds and stages of disease. Only 9 out of the whole were known to have died, but 248 were perfectly cured. The promoters of this humane institution, on the death of this gentleman, which unhappily soon followed, were obliged to seek a replacement.

26. Labacolly pagan sepulchral monument near Glanworth

    Glanworth · town · Cork

    A unique pagan sepulchral monument called Labacolly ("the Hag's or Witch's bed") stands near Glanworth village in the barony of Fermoy. It is composed of two immense incumbent stones supported by double ranges of smaller stones, with no similar work found elsewhere in the county.

    Read the passage

    Near the village of Glanworth, in the barony of Fermoy, is a pagan monument, not more remarkable for its size than its singularity, no similar work feeing found in any other part of $be county. A description and representation of it are given in Smith's History of Cork, both of which are erroneous. His inaccuracy here, as well as at Temple Brien, is the .less excusable from the facility of examination both afford, situated as they are close U> a public road. But Smith's curiosity seems to have been satisfied in most cases with the reports of others. This huge sepulchral monument, called in Irish, Labacolly, i. e. the Hag's or Witch's bed) is composed of two immense stones, supported *on each side by a double

    range

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 35

27. The Doong landslip at Kinure Point

    Kinure · townland · Cork

    A remarkable landslip near Kinure Point, called the Doong, has detached two or three acres from the mainland, leaving a chasm of frightful depth. A narrow passage about five feet wide preserves a precarious communication between the mainland and the severed portion, with perpendicular sides dropping nearly one hundred feet.

    Read the passage

    Of natural curiosities there is little to be related* Many of the cliffs possess that boldness of form, which characterizes the southern coast The most remarkable object, and one which rarely occurs in this part of the world, is a landslip, near Kinure point, called the Doong, by which two or three acres have been detached from tlieir original situation. Between them and the main land is a chasm of frightful depth, but not continuous. Near the central

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 200

28. Blarney castle and demesne: manufactures and romantic landscape

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1770–1810

    Blarney, though small, was notable for various branches of manufacture undertaken there over the preceding thirty to forty years. The castle stands on a bold, romantic rock washed by a pretty river, and the demesne is remarkably rich in plantation, much of it added by the late and present possessors.

    Read the passage

    with many conveniencies of inland situation an uncommon degree of beauty. About three miles northwest of Cork, in the centre of a deep valley, rises a narrow ridge of limestone rock, running for about an English mile in the direction of east and west The castle of Blarney, already mentioned, stands, at the northern side of this ridge, on a . bold and romantic rock, the foot of which is washed by a pretty river. The demesne is remarkably rich in plantation, some of it old ; much planted by the late, and a great deal by the present possessor. The natural advantages of a situation, possessing among other things a great command of water, induced the late proprietor, James St. John Jeffries, Esq. to undertake the establishment of a town, supported by such branches of manufacture, as seemed best suited to the nature of the place. Of his works a particular account is given in Mr. Young's Tour, which it is therefore unnecessary to repeat. They evince not only a laudable, but a munificent spirit, on the part of Mr. Jeffries, whose patriotic views were aided by some grants of public money, but who expended very large sums himself. In the plan and disposition of the town Mr. Jeffries, who had travelled in bis younger days, and profited more by his. tour than gentlemen sometimes do, displayed "*

    a con-

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 236

29. Charleville founded by Earl of Orrery

    Charleville · town · Cork

    Charleville was established by Roger, first Earl of Orrery and Lord President of Munster, who held his court there and endowed a free-school and a charter working school for forty boys. It was a corporate town governed by a sovereign, two bailiffs, and twelve burgesses, returning two members to parliament until the Union.

    Read the passage

    Charleville, standing on the confines of the county, is the principal*, or, more properly speaking, the only town of the district It owes its establishment to Roger, first Earl of Orrery, and Lord President of Munster, who here held his court, and bestowed on its improvement a portion of that munificence, for which the noble family of Boyle has been so eminently distinguished. Among other spirited acts were a free-school liberally endowed, and a charter working school for the reception of forty boys. It was a corporate town governed by a sovereign, two bailiffs, and twelve burgesses, and until the union returned two members to parliament. The situation of this town was, in many respects, well chosen. It stands on the great road, leading from Cork to Limerick, in a very rich and

    fertile

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 151

30. Clonakilty quays and lighter trade development

    Clonakilty · town · Cork · 1795–1810

    Fifteen years before the survey, Clonakilty had neither a lighter nor a quay for landing. By the time of the survey there were three large quays, each with several lighters constantly at work during summer months, though the trade was still thought capable of further expansion.

    Read the passage

    and, by shortening the land carriage, enable the more distant farmers to use a greater quantity. Cloghnikilty had not a single lighter fifteen years ago, or quay for landing on. There are now three large quays, each of which has several lighters con* stantly at work during the summer months. The trade, however, is so far from being overstocked, that it is thought more might find employment. Lighters usually hold from fifteen to twenty too, the price from eight to ten shillings. The quantity drawn from the head of Courtmasberry-bay is equally considerable. • But of all the places resorted to for this kind of manure, the greatest quantity is drawn from a narrow sandy beach, on the east side of the Galley-head, called the Red-strand. This contains a larger proportion of shell than any of the rest, from the colour of which the sand takes its name. It is computed, that there are not less than twelve or fourteen hundred cars annually employed in drawing this sand, some of which goes to the distance of ten, twelve, and even fourteen .miles. The proprietor of the strand receives a shilling a-year for each horse from all but the neighbouring farms, which are free of the strand. Distant farmers, by whom it is obtained with so much labour, use it very sparingly. Instead of being spread from the heap with shovels, it 19 frequently scattered by hand

    from

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 102

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up near Clonakilty in Cork. Fifteen years before the survey was written, this town had not a single lighter, nor a quay for landing on. By the time of the survey, all that had changed. There were three large quays, and each had several lighters constantly at work during the summer months. The trade was still thought far from overstocked. More lighters could find employment. The lighters usually held from fifteen to twenty tons, and the price was from eight to ten shillings. The trade here was in manure, sand and shell drawn from the head of Courtmasberry bay, and in still greater quantity from a narrow sandy beach on the east side of the Galley-head, called the Red-strand. The Red-strand sand took its name from its colour, and it contained a larger proportion of shell than any of the other places. It was computed that not less than twelve or fourteen hundred cars were annually employed in drawing this sand, some carrying it a distance of ten, twelve, and even fourteen miles. The proprietor of the strand received a shilling a year for each horse from all but the neighbouring farms, which were free of the strand. Distant farmers, who obtained it with so much labour, used it very sparingly. Instead of being spread from the heap with shovels, it was frequently scattered by hand.

31. Douglas sail-cloth manufactory

    near Douglas · townland · Cork

    An extensive sail-cloth manufactory at the village of Douglas provides employment for about three hundred people. The long-established business, conducted by Mr. Besnard, had a very high reputation for the goodness and durability of its cloth.

    Read the passage

    In the village of Douglas, situate at the northeast end of Carigaline parish, which, however, belongs rather to the liberties of Cork than the district under consideration, is an extensive manufac-^ tory of sail-cloth, providing employment for about three hundred people. This business, of long establishment, and very high character for the goodness and durability of the cloth, is conducted by Mr. Besnard in a stile of correct and regular management, which does him great credit. The other works of industrious enterprise, not before specified, are bolting mills, of which this district has now no inconsiderable number, and mostly of recent erection.

    Of natural curiosities there is little to be related* Many of the cliffs possess that boldness of form, which characterizes the southern coast The most remarkable object, and one which rarely occurs in this part of the world, is a landslip, near Kinure point, called the Doong, by which two or three acres have been detached from tlieir original situation. Between them and the main land is a chasm of frightful depth, but not continuous. Near the central

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 200

32. Establishment of a Protestant parish and church at Fermoy

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    Fermoy was formerly considered extra-parochial with only three or four Protestant inhabitants, who attended church in neighbouring parishes. As the Protestant population grew to around five hundred, the proprietor endowed a perpetual curacy and built a church with assistance from the Board of First Fruits.

    Read the passage

    created, as it were, without any pre-existing materials. Fermoy used formerly to be considered as extra-parochial, atid its protestant inhabitants, who were not above three or four persons, resorted of course to some of the neighbouring parishes. After much search had been made in Dublin into ancient and musty records, it was at last allowed by the best civilians in Ireland, that Fermoy was, to all * •intents and purposes, a parish in construction of law; but, as the tithes were wholly impropriate* there was neither any church, nor any clergyman, nor any fund to build the former, or maintain the latter. The first step taken by the proprietor was to make over to the church, by way of free gift, ft certain small annual sum, payable for ever out of die impropriate tithes in his possession, in order to erect Fermoy into a perpetual curacy. He then nominated a clergyman to the cure, who bad previously begun to do duty in such private apartments as could be procured. , A vacancy was next brought about in the. neighbouring parish ef Litter, which liaving been united by act of council to Fermoy, the same clergyman was appointed by the bishop of Cloyne to the union. Provision having thus been made for a clergyman, it only remained to provide a church, that should be adequate to the growing wants of the place. The Board of first fruits con- 3 T v tributed

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    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 174

33. Kilcrea Abbey on the banks of the river Bride

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1400–1499

    The abbey of Kilcrea was founded in the fifteenth century by one of the MacCarthy family for similar uses as Timoleague. It is in good preservation, superior in architecture due to limestone and marble available locally, and situated beautifully on the banks of the river Bride about eight miles west of Cork.

    Read the passage

    of procuring which p, I believe, unknown, none of it being in the immediate neighbourhood of the abbey. The monks were of die Franciscan order, and the establishment, as appears from the number of apartments, pretty considerable. Its situation, though low, is very beautiful, the tide flowing tip to it* walls, and forming, when it is fall, a very noble piece of water navigable for sloops to the harbour of Courtmasherry, distant about three English miles. The abbey of Kilcrea, founded in the succeeding century by one of the same family, and for similar uses, is also in good preservation. As an establish* ment it appears, from its remains, inferior to the former ; in point of architecture it has the advantage*. This is to be ascribed' to the superiority of the material, the lands at Kilcrea, as well as at Buttevant, affording limestone and marble* The situation of this abbey also is beautiful, being on the banks of the river Bride, in the centre of a rich vale, about eight miles west of Cork.

    . In the three last abbeys are great piles of huma* bones, for the collection of which it is not easy to account Tradition, silent respecting two of them, reports that those at Buttevant were brought from a field of battle in die neighbourhood. This, if Well founded, may account also for the other collections. It se? ms more consistent with the pious regard ge-

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 47

34. Kinsale town: corporation, charter, and ancient narrow streets

    Kinsale · town · Cork

    The town and liberties of Kinsale occupied nearly three miles square as a separate jurisdiction with its own charter, corporation, and court of conscience. Its antiquity was evident in the extreme narrowness of its streets, attributed to the need for fortification and the infrequency of wheel carriages in earlier times.

    Read the passage

    The town of Kinsale is very respectable as well from the number and description of its inhabitants, as from its size and antiquity. To the last, however, it owes much inconvenience in the extreme narrowness of the streets, a circumstance observable in all very ancient establishments, and probably arising from the state of the times, in which they were formed. Fortification was then necessary for security, and a small compass was mose easily fen* dered defensible. The infrequency of wheel carriages was also another material cause of contract* ing the streets. The nature of the ground, on which the town stands, a hill of steep and sudden ascent from the water, is peculiarly unfavourable to the

    formation

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 194

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Kinsale, a town noted for its number and description of inhabitants, and for its size and antiquity. That antiquity shows in the extreme narrowness of the streets, which causes much inconvenience. This narrowness is common in all very ancient establishments, and probably arose from the state of the times in which they were formed. Fortification was then necessary for security, and a small compass was more easily rendered defensible. The infrequency of wheel carriages was another material cause of contracting the streets. The nature of the ground, a hill of steep and sudden ascent from the water, is peculiarly unfavourable to the formation of anything wider.

35. Lady Kingston's charitable institutions at Mitchelstown

    Mitchelstown · townland · Cork

    The Dowager Lady Kingston established numerous charitable institutions in Mitchelstown including an orphan school for twelve girls, a new elegant church, an interest-free loan fund, a physician for the sick poor, a village library, public shops selling necessities at wholesale cost, weaving and spinning schools, and a Sunday school. These were designed to provide education and industry to the lower orders.

    Read the passage

    Mitehelstown, a very wretched village* before the tine of the late Lord Kingston, by whom it was greatly improved and enlarged, is now a handsome and populous town. Like most other towns, die apparent is belter than die real condition, as the suburbs and back lanes are full of very indigent inhabitants* Every thing however has been done by it* preset* possessor, the Dowager Lady Kingston, which the happy wisdom of charity and affluence cmU -suggest, to enlighten the minds of the rising generation, and ameliorate the conditio* of the people. Her Ladyriip'e liberal and mantficeot eicpen- 4rt«res are, as follows. An Orphan school, where twelve girls are lodged, dieted, and taught every kind of work, together with reading, writing, and arithmetic. They make their own cioatbs, spin flax and wool, knit stockings, work muslin, and keep the bouse clean. The mistsess, who resides hi the house, instructs them carefully in the principles of the christian religion. They also sing psalms on Sunflays in place of the parish clerk incapacitated by age from performing this part of his duty. The church, a new, elegant, and expensive building, owes every thing to her ladjship's bounty, except a parish rate of twenty pounds, and a sum of four

    huudred

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 184

36. Lislee estate improvements under Rev. Edward Synge

    near Lislee · parish · Cork

    Rev. Edward Synge D.D. made progress improving a fine estate at Lislee which came into his hands after a long lease in a worn-out condition, having long been occupied by rack-rent tenants. The poor tenants, unacquainted with the proprietor's liberal ideas, initially distrusted his intentions but were soon convinced, and Synge beheld a comfortable and thriving tenantry.

    Read the passage

    The Rev. Edward Synge, D. D. has ntaklfc softie progress in improving a fine estate, at Lislefe, which orifafc into his hands, on tbte expiration of a long lease, in a very worn out condition, having long befcn in thfe occupancy of rack-rent tenants. These pbor people, impressed with the idea of that system's continuance, could with difficulty be prevailed upon to make any ofier for their grounds. Unacquainted with the liberal ideas of the proprietor, they conceived that the information, thereby obtained of the land's talae, would only be employed for the purpose of enhancing its price. They were soon conviriced of die contrary, and Doctor Synge has now the satisfaction of beholding a comfortable and thriv~ ihg tenantry. The completion of his plans, one of which is the erection of a handsome mansion-house* hits been hitherto prevented by the discouraging circumstances of the times.

    Lord Carbery's efforts towards establishing a plantation in a place altogether destitute of tifober hbVe beeii equally judicious and successful. Adopting toe true plan of doing the business effectually, by raising his own trees, hie has made very exterisivte tad flourishing nurseries. In these, from which his lordship has already planted pretty largely, he has now a copious assortment of shrubs and forest tries, which will enable him to attain the great desideratum

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog

37. Martin family model farms near Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    Good farm-houses and well-enclosed comfortable farms have lately appeared on the quarter near Cork, owing their advancement to the Martin family, distinguished for skilful and persevering industry in agriculture.

    Read the passage

    <way to Fermoy, I could only mark the remains of one poor castellated building on this extensive and lofty range. The country, however, though high, id very capable of improvement. The soil is generally deep, little encumbered with stone, often of good natural quality, frequently wet, though seldom boggy, and easily reclaimable by draining. Many good farm-houses, and well-inclosed comfortable farms have lately made their appearance on the quarter near Cork, most of which, I understand, owe their advancement to the family of the Martins, peculiarly distinguished for their skilful and persevering industry in the practice of agriculture. It is but a just tribute to their uncommon exertions to say, that they stand amopg the very foremost in this county, as patterns of uniform good conduct, and successful unremitting assiduity.

    Irishmen often begin with spirit, but frequently fail in perseverance. . To grow rich is often to turn fine gentlemen, and become idle; or, if the diligence of the father should happen to be permanent, it is counteracted by the dissipation of die sons. In this truly meritorious family industry suffers no abatement, and increase of opulence brings with it increase of exertion.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 203

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, the road passes a quarter where good farm-houses and well-enclosed comfortable farms have lately made their appearance. Most of them, the survey tells us, owe their advancement to the family of the Martins, who are described as peculiarly distinguished for their skilful and persevering industry in the practice of agriculture. The writer calls it a just tribute to say they stand among the very foremost in the county, as patterns of uniform good conduct and successful unremitting assiduity. He adds that Irishmen often begin with spirit but frequently fail in perseverance, and that to grow rich is often to turn fine gentleman and become idle. Even where the father's diligence is permanent, it can be counteracted by the dissipation of the sons. In this truly meritorious family, the survey says, industry suffers no abatement, and increase of opulence brings with it increase of exertion.

38. New Catholic Chapel at Fermoy

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    The old Catholic chapel at Fermoy being in a ruinous state, the proprietor offered ground and £500 towards a new building if the congregation could raise £1,000. The sum was raised and a solid, handsome edifice was advancing on a raised platform with a pretty view of the town.

    Read the passage

    th^ir worship. To insure this point, he offered not only to give them the ground, but to contribute five hundred pounds towards- the expence of the building, provided they were able to raise one thousand ' pounds, and actually to lodge it in bank, before a' single stone was laid. This precaution is justified by examples of chapels begun, but never finished, by too great a dependence on promised subscriptions. The one thousand pounds has been raised ; the building is advancing, and promises to be a very solid and handsome edifice of the kind. It stands on a raised platform, entirely walled round, and commanding a very pretty view of the town and adjacent country."

    " The quarter sessions having been held for some ytars past at Fermoy, in consequence of an act of Council obtained for that purpose by the proprietor, the sessions-house already mentioned has been lately built, by presentment, the interior of which is extremely well adapted to the use it islhtended for, and ie capable at the same time 6( being cou- * verted into a very pretty theatre. This has occasionally been done by the company, who act at Cork towards the end of autumn, and previous to their return *q DoWin; and last year these plays were accompanied, for the first time, by races, which coni tinued an entire week. The concourse of visitors

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 175

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Fermoy, the old Catholic chapel had fallen into a ruinous state, and the proprietor of the place saw that the congregation needed a new one for their worship. He offered not only to give them the ground for the building, but to contribute five hundred pounds towards the expense of it, provided they were able to raise one thousand pounds. And not merely to raise the sum, but to actually lodge it in a bank, before a single stone was laid. This precaution, he said, was justified by the examples of chapels that had been begun but never finished, through too great a dependence on promised subscriptions. The congregation met the demand that had been placed on them. The one thousand pounds has been raised, the building is now advancing, and it promises to be a very solid and handsome edifice of the kind. It stands on a raised platform, entirely walled round, and commands a very pretty view of the town and the adjacent country.

39. Newmill stone circle and Druid's altar near Rosscarbery

    Newmill · townland · Donegal

    Near Rosscarbery by the village of Newmill stands another stone circle of similar dimensions to Temple Brien's, with five stones still standing. Within a few feet is a Druid's altar with a ponderous top stone and three supporters, a rare instance of circle and altar found together.

    Read the passage

    In the neigbbourliood of Ross, near the village of Newmill, is another circle composed of similar stones, and nearly of the same dimensions. In this too there are five stones still standing, and so close to each other, that, if all were equidistant, more than nine must have been required to complete the circle. There is no trace of a central stone, as at Temple-brien, nor are they arranged in the same manner, some being placed with their sides, others with their edges towards the centre. This appears to have been a favourite scene of religious exercise, for within a few feet of the circle is a Druid's altar* and, at the distance of a hundred yards, an upright stone of the same kind as those that compose the circle. The upper stone of the altar, which has three supporters, is very ponderous, and bears some resemblance in its form to a skettle bowl. This is the only instance I know of a connexion between the circle and the altar, which are usually found remote frbm each other, as if the works of different £ges. The point of priority I am disposed to assign to the altar, which, as will hereafter be shewn; appears to be amonjjr the earliest efforts of jiupersti-

    tion.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Newmill, near Rosscarbery, there is a stone circle composed of stones similar to those at Temple Brien, and nearly of the same dimensions. Five stones are still standing, set so close to each other that, if all were equidistant, more than nine would have been required to complete the circle. There is no trace of a central stone, as at Temple Brien, nor are they arranged in the same manner. Some are placed with their sides towards the centre, others with their edges. This appears to have been a favourite scene of religious exercise, for within a few feet of the circle is a Druid's altar. At a distance of a hundred yards, there is also an upright stone of the same kind as those that compose the circle. The upper stone of the altar, which has three supporters, is very ponderous, and bears some resemblance in its form to a skittle bowl. This is the only instance the writer knows of a connexion between the circle and the altar, which are usually found remote from each other, as if the works of different ages. The point of priority he is disposed to assign to the altar, which appears to be among the earliest efforts of superstition.

40. O'Driscoll castle ruins on Cape Clear

    Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    On a projecting part of Cape Clear Island stand the ruins of a castle built on a promontory accessible only by a narrow, dangerous pass washed by the ocean on both sides. It belonged to the O'Driscoll family, once powerful in the district, and may eventually be severed from the island like the castle at Darneen.

    Read the passage

    On a projecting part of this island are the ruin* of a castle, built, as many were, in a situation only approachable at one point, and by a most dangerous and narrow pass, washed on both sides by the ocean. In its present state it is hard to conceive, how any person could think of building a mansion, die very access to which was perilous in the extreme;, but it is probable, that the incessant warring of the waves has narrowed the original passage. In a short time it will probably resemble that at Darneen,and be wholly severed from the island. It belonged to the family of die O'Driscolls, once of great power in this district, and of whom some respectable branches stilL remain.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 105

41. Old Head of Kinsale lighthouse and castle ruins

    near Old Head of Kinsale · promontory · Cork

    The Old Head of Kinsale is the longest headland in the county, furnished with a lighthouse serving as a key point of direction for Cork and Kinsale harbours. Near its outer extremity stand ruins of a castle, easily defensible due to the narrowness of the approach, reflecting the turbulent times in which it was built.

    Read the passage

    xions. Mr. Stawell deserves honourable mention for the general stile of his farming, which is found* ed on approved principles, and conducted with judgment and spirit. There are some pretty and improved spots on the north side, near Kinsale river, where the soil seems to be of better quality than in most other places. Coolmain affords a good argillaceous freestone for building, some of which was used in the octagon at Courtmasherry. It is not improbable, that the neighbouring abbeys of Timoleague and Abbeymahon were supplied from the same quarries. The southern cliffs afford abundance of good slate, occasionally sent to Cork and Kinsale in the summer months. The well known promontory, called the old head of Kinsale, projects from the eastern part of this barony. It is much the longest of all our headlands, and, being furnished with a good light-house, forms a material point of direction for the harbour of Cork and Kinsale. Near the outer extremity stand the ruins of a castle, easily defensible against a large force from the narrowness, of the approach. Situations of this nature, devoid of every recommendation, save the single one of defensibility, were never overlooked, and they give a melancholy picture of the state of the times, in which they were built. As ruins, they have doubtless a fine effect, partly arising from their

    own

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 130

    As the companion tells it

    Near here, somewhere about Old Head of Kinsale, the longest headland in the county projects from the eastern part of this barony. It carries a good lighthouse, and that light forms a material point of direction for the harbour of Cork and for Kinsale. Near the outer extremity stand the ruins of a castle, easily defensible against a large force because of the narrowness of the approach. Situations of this nature, devoid of every recommendation save the single one of defensibility, were never overlooked in those days. They give, as the surveyor wrote, a melancholy picture of the state of the times in which they were built. As ruins, they have doubtless a fine effect, partly arising from their own character and partly from the wild setting they stand in. The southern cliffs in this district also afford an abundance of good slate, occasionally sent to Cork and Kinsale in the summer months. Coolmain, not far off, affords a good argillaceous freestone for building, some of which was used in the octagon at Courtmacsherry. It is not improbable that the neighbouring abbeys of Timoleague and Abbeymahon were supplied from the same quarries.

42. Old hilltop roads and planned mail coach routes in Cork

    Innishannon · town · Cork

    The author describes how old roads in Cork universally ran over hill summits for firm footing, with causeways of large stones for wet ground, and that later generations preserved these impractical elevations when widening roads. New mail coach road lines were being planned from Cork through Inishannon, Bandon, Clonakilty and Ross Carbery (with a branch to Kinsale), through Macroom and Millstreet to Kerry, and through Mallow to Limerick.

    Read the passage

    ously preserved. The idea of avoiding these hills, which they and their ancestors had been accustomed to travel over, seems not to have entered into their plan of reformation. Within a later period some occasional improvements in this respect have taken place, but the great alteration is yet to be made, and fortunately its arrival appears to be at hand. For the attainment, or at least the acceleration of this desirable object, we are indebted to the spirited example of Mr. Anderson in undertaking and accomplishing the establishment of mail coaches in this county. In consequence of his success, and partly under his auspices, many new lines of mail coach road are now in contemplation, from which the greatest advantages, too obvious to require enlargement, must necessarily accrue. The principal of these are a line of road from Cork to Skibbereen through Inishannon, Bandon, Cldghnikilty, and Ross Carbery, a branch from which will communicate with Kinsale ; a line of road from Cork to Kerry through Macromp, and Milktreet; and another to Limerick through Mallow. Besides these, some new roads of great local utility, but less public importance, are under consideration, and the accomplishment of these plans will probably lead to many others. The new lines are laid out under the * direction

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 277

43. Ross Carbery Abbey and cathedral antiquity and founding by St. Faughnan

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 500–1810

    The abbey at Ross Carbery is considered of great antiquity, possibly dating to St. Faughnan who in the beginning of the sixth century is said to have founded both the abbey and the cathedral of Ross. The cathedral nearby bears no particular feature of antiquity but recently had a tower and spire of hewn stone added by the dean and chapter, erected by Mr. Edward Shanahan of Cork.

    Read the passage

    able from this description to form some judgment of the probable age of this abbey. It is considered, and I believe justly, as of great antiquity, though I will not venture to say, that it has lasted since the days of JSt Faughoan, who in the beginning of the sixth century is said to have founded both the abbey and the cathedral of Ross. In examining the inside, I found that the walls had Once been incrusted with a thick coat or plaister of lime and gravel, of which only a very small part remains on the side facing the north, and where it was least exposed ta the inclemency of the weather. The little, that does remain, shews that it was a composition of great durability, the general disappeaiaaee of which is another argument of the building's age. The cathe** dral, not far distant fromr the abbey, bears no partU cular feature of antiquity, though it is not improbable that some part of the walls may be very ancient* It is, however, remarkable for a very elegant and modern improvement, lately added by the dean and chapter, under whose direction a tower, standing at the west entrance, was raised, and a spire of Jbewa stone, fifty feet high, erected thereon. The work was erected by Mr. Edward Sbanahan, of Cork, and does great credit to his taste and skill.

    St. Faughnan and bis successors, however, had

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ross Carbery in Cork, the old abbey here is considered a place of great antiquity. Some say it dates back to St. Faughnan, who in the beginning of the 6th century is said to have founded both the abbey and the cathedral of Ross. The writer of the survey would not venture to say the building has lasted since those days, but he believed it to be genuinely old. Inside, the walls had once been covered with a thick coat of lime and gravel plaster. Only a small part remains, on the north side, where it was least exposed to the weather. What little remains shows it was a composition of great durability, and its general disappearance is another argument for the building's age. The cathedral, not far from the abbey, bears no particular feature of antiquity, though some part of the walls may be very ancient. It is remarkable, though, for a modern improvement lately added by the dean and chapter. Under their direction, a tower standing at the west entrance was raised, and a spire of hewn stone, 50 feet high, erected on top. The work was done by Mr. Edward Shanahan of Cork, and does great credit to his taste and skill.

44. Short-lived linen manufactory at Fermoy

    Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1802–1803

    During a brief interval of peace, a coarse linen manufactory was established in Fermoy with over fifty looms employing weavers, mostly discharged soldiers from the north of Ireland. When war resumed, these weavers left and returned to their former military situations.

    Read the passage

    candle trade, in whijch he has had great success, and which find a ready sale in the town and neighbourhood ; and, had it not been for the renewal of the war, after the short duration of Mr. Addington's peace, a pretty, tolerable coarse linen manufactory might, by this time, have been added to the foregoing little list. During the twelve months interval of peace, upwards of fifty looms were actually procured arid fully employed by as many weavers; but being mostly north of Ireland men from reduced regiments, they slipped off, one by one, into their former situations, as soon as these were re-opened for them. The idea of encouraging this branch of trade, however, is not relinquished by the proprietor, as it is evidently one of those, to which the rude state of this country is most particularly adapted."

    " In the foregoing enumeration, scarce any of the sources of employment for the inhabitants of Fermoy have been omitted, except two. One of these is the building trade, which is, properly speaking, a species of manufacture, the returns of which are made by posterity. Ever since the origin of the place, much circulation has been occasioned by this means, and a great many hands employed. To have erected, in the short space of ten or twelve years, even so small a town as Fer-

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 170

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Fermoy, there was a short-lived attempt at a coarse linen manufactory, from 1802 to 1803. It came about during a brief interval of peace, what the source calls Mr. Addington's peace, after a short duration of which war was renewed. During that twelve months of peace, upwards of fifty looms were procured and fully employed by as many weavers. The weavers were mostly men from the north of Ireland, drawn from reduced regiments. When war resumed and their former military situations were re-opened for them, they slipped off, one by one, back to the army. The proprietor, though, had not relinquished the idea of encouraging this branch of trade, since it was evidently one of those to which the rude state of this country was most particularly adapted. There had also been some success in the candle trade, which found a ready sale in the town and neighbourhood. And the building trade had employed a great many hands ever since the origin of the place.

45. Limestone quarry and land reclamation at Kildinan

    Kildinan · townland · Cork · 1771

    A limestone quarry on the lands of Kildinan supplied materials to improve nearby unreclaimed mountain land. Mr. Roche took possession of the property in 1771 and incentivized settlers to reclaim the waste land by building houses and offering favorable leases.

    Read the passage

    There is a limestone-quarry on the lands of Kildinin, and not more than a mile from the unreclaimed land, which, as the turf was abundant in the premises, promised to increase the facility of improving it

    Such was the state of this property, when Mr. Roche became possessed of it in 1771 ; and, not having yet determined in what manner he was to dispose of it, he advertised the grass of the entire, die first year, and set it for twenty pounds, with which the tenant decamped at the end of die season.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 212

46. Lord Carbery's clover seed initiative at Castlefreke

    near Castlefreke · street · Cork

    Lord Carbery imported clover seed and offered it at reduced prices to his tenants at Castlefreke, but was disappointed by their backwardness in adopting it. The author corrects Weld's claim that this reluctance reflected Irish peasants' deep-seated suspicion of improvement, attributing it instead to simple unfamiliarity with the crop.

    Read the passage

    equal to his wishes, but he would have learned nothing more. His Lordship imported some seed, which he offered at reduced prices, and was much disappointed by the backwardness of the people to take advantage of so kind an. act. This, however, was very far from being a rejection upon principle. The fact is, they were not then sufficiently acquainted with its use. They might also have felt it awkward to go to such a place to buy, for I find no similar complaint among the sellers at the neighbouring town of Cloghnikilty, where they bought seed, and continue to do so still. The general indisposition to adopt new practices is easily accounted for, without having recourse to far-fetched and fanciful suppositions, libellous of the people, and incompatible with common understanding. It is by no means peculiar to the Irish, but found among the lower tribes of every country, as the natural result of attachment to ancient usage and established custom*. It is absurd as well as erroneous to suppose them actuated by any other motives, than those arising from the common prejudices of an ignorant

    peasantry*

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 94

47. Ancient oak cistern discovered near Castlefreke

    near Castlefreke · street · Cork · 1803

    In the summer of 1803, a farmer scouring a trench by the river Anahincha, which separates the baronies of Barryroe and Carbery, discovered a large oak cistern forming a regular square of 72 feet with paved bottom and mortise-jointed oak walls. Lord Carbery furnished the account.

    Read the passage

    I cannot relate better than in his own words. " In the summer of 1803, by the side of the. river Anahincha, which separates the baronies of Barryroe and Carbery, and near the place where it discharges itself into the sea, a farmer, in scouring a trench, perceived the end of a piece of timber, which, upon further examination, he discovered to be part of a large cistern* or tank, composing a regular square of seventy-two feet. The bottom was paved, and the sides constructed with oak in the following tnanner."

    " Along each side of the cistern were laid three pieces of oak, twenty-four feet long each, about five inches thick, and sixteen inches broad, spliced together by an oblique joint rudely cut Along the centre of each of these beams were three mortises, in which were placed upright, three pieces of oak about four feet long; the centre piece of these was broader at top than at bottom, and acted as a key, the two side pieces being made to extend, at the surface of the flat beam, somewhat beyond the mortise. The mortises were so near, that the outside uprights of one touched the outside uprights 2N of

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 89

48. Glangarriffe glen: romantic woodland with arbutus and former iron smelting

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    Glangarriffe, meaning 'the rough glen,' is situated on the north side of Bantry Bay at the head of a small harbour. Its enclosing hills are covered with trees and shrubs, including flourishing arbutus rarely found in native Irish woods. Iron was formerly smelted in this neighbourhood when timber was more abundant and less valuable.

    Read the passage

    But the place, most celebrated for combining the softer j»races of the waving wood with the wildest rudeness of mountain aspect, is Glangarriffe (the rough glen) situated, on the north side of the bay, at the head of a small harbour or cove. The hills, that inclose this romantic glen, rise in great variety of rocky forms, their sides and hollows being covered profusely with trees and shrubs, among which the arbutus, rarely found to adorn our native woods, appears in a flourishing state. Here, as at Killarnev, nature seems to have been at wanton variance with herself, and, after exciting a war between two rival powers, to have decided in favour of the weaker party. Among stones of immense size, thrown together in the wildest confusion, and apparently forbidding the possibility of useful produce; among bare and massive rocks, that should seem destined to reign for ever in barren desolation, arises a luxuriance of sylvan growth, which art would hardly hope for in the happiest situations. The extent of this woody region, which winds through the mountains for some miles, is very considerable. Iron was formerly smelted in this neighbourhood, when timber was more abundant and less valuable.

    A river

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 133

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Glangarriffe, the rough glen, on the north side of Bantry Bay at the head of a small harbour. The hills that enclose this glen rise in great variety of rocky forms, their sides and hollows covered profusely with trees and shrubs. Among them the arbutus, rarely found to adorn our native woods, appears in a flourishing state. Here, as at Killarney, nature seems to have been at wanton variance with herself, and, after exciting a war between two rival powers, to have decided in favour of the weaker party. Among stones of immense size, thrown together in the wildest confusion, and apparently forbidding the possibility of useful produce, among bare and massive rocks that should seem destined to reign for ever in barren desolation, arises a luxuriance of sylvan growth, which art would hardly hope for in the happiest situations. This woody region winds through the mountains for some miles. Iron was formerly smelted in this neighbourhood, when timber was more abundant and less valuable.

49. Mr. Gordon's failed improvements at Newgrove

    Newgrove · townland · Cork

    Mr. Gordon spent £60,000 building a dwelling house, offices, bleach-mill, factory, and inn at New-grove, attempting to establish the linen manufacture on a bleak, barren spot. The enterprises failed from mismanagement and local unfamiliarity with flax culture, leaving only ruins and an indifferent farm.

    Read the passage

    mine, who lived near the place, aad often lamented the misapplication of his money and talents, was a^wred by Mr. Gordon's chief superintendent, that no less a sum than £60,000. bad passed through bis hands, in the various expences of what were called the improvements of New-grove, Of all these great works, little now remains but ruins. Whatever there is of profitable return, arises from the reclaimed grounds, which, after all, make but an indifferent farm.

    This neighbourhood is also remarkable for another instance of great and fruitless expenditure, on principles, however, different from those of Mr. Gordon, whose conduct, tho' indiscreet, was publicspirited- At Dromore, the old seat of the Deane family, Lord Muskerry erected a most superb house, which was never entirely finished, and of which not 4 s a stone

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog

50. Ancient silver coins discovered at Castlefreke

    near Castlefreke · street · Cork

    Labourers levelling an enclosure at Castlefreke discovered ancient silver coins wrapped in a small leather bag that crumbled to dust on exposure. The coins bore the names of Edmund and Athelstan, and Lord Carbery suggested they were brought by Anlaff, a chief who fled to Ireland to escape Athelstan's pursuit.

    Read the passage

    Among the curiosities of this district I should have noticed the discovery of some ancient silver coins, by some labourers employed in levelling an inclosure at Castlefreke. They were wrapped in g, small bag, probably of leather, whic^i mouldered 2 p into

    290 STATISTICAL SURVEY

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Castlefreke, labourers levelling an enclosure found ancient silver coins, wrapped in a small bag, probably of leather, which crumbled to dust on exposure. The coins bore the names of Edmund and Athelstan. Lord Carbery suggested they were brought by Anlaff, a chief who fled to Ireland to escape Athelstan's pursuit.

51. Bandon founded by Earl of Cork in early 17th century

    Bandon · town · Cork · 1600–1625

    Bandon, originally called Bandonbridge, was established as a fortified town by the first Earl of Cork at the beginning of the seventeenth century. Despite the district's troubled state, he built a town with two churches, two market-houses, and a large number of industrious inhabitants, purchasing the ground from the Bechers.

    Read the passage

    The town was incorporated, through the interest of the founder, by James the first. The corporation consists of a provost* thirteen burgesses, and twelve common council men. ' It returns one member to parliament.

    The first branch of business established here, and which continued for a Jong time to flourish, was the woollen. The industry of the inhabitants has since been variously dlrfected under the influence of fluctuating demands, and changing fashions. Most articles of shop business may here be' procured on reasonable terms, some of them the manufacture of the place. The inhabitants generally respectable, and frequently opulent, are * remarkable for sober demeanour, and diligent attention to their respective' pursuits. It seems remarkable, that in a town of such consideration, and apparently well situated for tiie purpose, the banking business should never have been undertaken. It is probably ascrib&ble to the prudent character of the people, more inclined to seek moderate profits on secure grounds, than to

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 123

52. Bleaching-green and cotton mill on Argideen near Clonakilty

    Clonakilty · town · Cork · 1775

    Lord Shannon appropriated 25 acres with a house for a bleaching-green about 35 years prior, leased in perpetuity. Robert Pratt erected a bolting mill on the site, and the present tenant James Sadleir carries on an extensive cotton business with machinery brought from Manchester.

    Read the passage

    could with equal gratitude and delight indulge myself in commemorating, did not recent recollection render it as unnecessary to record, as I find myself incompetent to do justice to his* virtues. About thirty-five years ago, his lordship appropriated twenty-five acres with a house, for this purpose, subject to a small rent, by a lease for ever. It has since passed through different hands, and is now in possession of James Sadleir, Esq. The great command of water it enjoys, being situate on the Arigadeen, one mile north of Cloghnikilty, induced one of the proprietors (Robert Pratt, Esq.) to erect a bolting mill on the site. In addition to this Mr. Sadleir, the present tenant, carries on the cotton business extensively, having brought machinery from Manchester at a considerable expence. Something is still done in the bleaching way, but the new works have almost superseded the original intention.

    At Balinascarthy, in the same neighbourhood, another bleaching-green was established shortly after by Sampson Stowell, Esq. which did a good deal of business for several years'. The convenience of a fine stream of water, presenting a hope of more profit from a mill, has occasioned a similar deviation from the original plan.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 108

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Clonakilty, there is a site on the Argideen about a mile north of the town that began as a bleaching-green. About thirty-five years ago Lord Shannon set aside twenty-five acres with a house for that purpose, subject to a small rent, on a lease for ever. The property has since passed through different hands and is now in the possession of James Sadleir. The great command of water on the Argideen induced one of the proprietors, Robert Pratt, to erect a bolting mill on the site. Mr. Sadleir, the present tenant, carries on the cotton business extensively, having brought machinery from Manchester at considerable expense. Something is still done in the bleaching way, but the new works have almost superseded the original intention. A similar pattern followed at Balinascarthy in the same neighbourhood, where another bleaching-green was established shortly after by Sampson Stowell. That did a good deal of business for several years, but a fine stream of water again presented the hope of more profit from a mill, and caused a similar deviation from the original plan.

53. Buttevant abbey ruins of friars minor

    Buttevant · town · Cork · 1272–1307

    The village and neighbourhood of Buttevant exhibit ruins of an abbey of friars minor founded by Edward de Barry in the reign of Edward the First. The ruins display fine Gothic architecture in remaining windows and arches, with masonry executed in a superior style using excellent local materials. The possessions of these religious houses were very considerable, one said to have held 2060 Irish acres.

    Read the passage

    considerable portion of ease and celebrity. The ruins of their establishment are viewed with some degree of reverence, but excite in the mind no other emotion. The term of their existence attained a fair extent of mortal duration ; they fulfilled their ends, and are gone. The fate of similar establishments, undertaken with equal hopes and very superior means, appears to have been less fortunate. The village and neighbourhood of Buttevant exhibit an assemblage of religious edifices, sufficient at any period to have engaged admiration. The ruins of an abbey of friars minor, founded by Edward de Barry, in the reign of- Edward the first, exhibit a fine specimen of Gothic architecture in the windows and arches, which remain. The mason work of all the buildings appears to have been executed in a superior stile, nature having afforded every desirable advantage in a supply of the best materials. The possessions of these religious houses were very considerable, one of them being said to have held 2060 Irish acres ; but their most valuable property wa? in tidies. By a fatality often attending human affairs, die very circumstance, that was fondly considered as a permanent cause of prosperity, became a principal instrument of their ruin. Had die abbeys been poor, they might have passed unnoticed by that rapacity, which wealth had little chance

    of

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 46

54. Cape Clear Island: hard living on infertile rock

    Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    Cape Clear Island comprises about 1400 acres of rough, shallow, infertile land covered in heath and furze, lacking even fuel. Despite these hardships it supports roughly 1200 inhabitants who subsist partly on potatoes purchased from the mainland, fishing, pilotage, and occasional trade with passing vessels.

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    ward and homeward bound vessels, being the southermost point of the Irish coast, is within the precincts of West Carbery. It contains about 1400 acres of land, some of which is very elevated, and the far greater part extremely rough, shallow, and infertile, wholly incapable of producing trees, and furnished by nature with a poor covering of heath and creeping furze. The comforts even of fuel, so generally found in rude and dreary regions, are here wanting, the inhabitants being compelled to resort to the most convenient shores of the neighbouring bay for a supply of that necessary article. Under aH these disadvantages it supports a population, computed to amount to at least 1 200 souls, who are so far from considering themselves in a desolate or unenviable situation, that they fear no punishment so much as an expulsion from their favourite island. Its inconveniencies, however, are counterbalanced by some circumstances of a favourable nature resulting from a maritime situation. Besides their occupation as fishermen, which was formerly a more profitable business than at present, they have frequent opportunities of a little traffic with homeward bound vessels, as well as of emoluments derived from pilotage. One of their chief disadvantages in this respect, is the want of a safe station for their boats, which, from the necessity of

    hauling

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 103

55. Castletownsend built up by Richard Townsend

    Castletownsend · townland · Cork

    Castletownsend was originally a neat village adjoining the mansion-house on the west side, improved and extended by Richard Townsend, Esq., a commissioner of the revenue and long-time representative of Cork in parliament. A new custom-house was built there for the district of Baltimore, replacing the old one at Bridgetown, and a new town quickly arose with many respectable inhabitants.

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    Casde-Toflrnsend, the first *nd principal seat of the family, whose name it bears, was nothing more than a neat and. well built village adjoining the mansion-house, on the west side, until improved and extended by its late possessor, Richard Towuteiad* Esq. a commissioned of the revenue, and m*ny years a representative of this county ia parliament. A new custom-house was built here for the district of Baltimore, in place of the old one, which stood ai; Bridgetown, and &ueh was the encouragement Mr, Townsend gave for building, as well as the desire of being near a man beloved, admired, and respected in a degree, which only those who knew him cqn* justly appretiate, that in a short space of time a newf town arose, numbering among its inhabitants more persons of respectability than are usually found &qt such a situation. In this respect it still continues to maintain its character, ev^n under die disadvantage of the pretent proprietor'? seclusion from his country and . friends, a circumstance, whether arising from actual or supposed necessity, always to be lamented! There are many genteel families, some peqna-> netntly, others occasionally resided, who live ia pleasant and friendly association. Thjbi, however* seems to be the utmost of its attainment, berpg ill calculated for a town of any importance from the general nature of the neighbouring lands, which are

    very

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 116

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Castletownsend, the first and principal seat of the Townsend family. It began as nothing more than a neat, well-built village adjoining the mansion-house on the west side, until it was improved and extended by its late possessor, Richard Townsend, a commissioner of the revenue and for many years a representative of this county in parliament. A new custom-house was built here for the district of Baltimore, in place of the old one that stood at Bridgetown. Richard Townsend gave such encouragement for building, and there was such a desire to be near a man beloved, admired, and respected in a degree only those who knew him could justly appreciate, that in a short space of time a new town arose, numbering among its inhabitants more persons of respectability than are usually found in such a situation. It still continues to maintain its character, even under the disadvantage of the present proprietor's seclusion from his country and friends, a circumstance, whether arising from actual or supposed necessity, always to be lamented. Many genteel families, some permanently, others occasionally, reside here, living in pleasant and friendly association. It seems ill-calculated for a town of any importance, given the general nature of the neighbouring lands.

56. Clonakilty's rapid growth in population and trade over 25 years

    Clonakilty · town · Cork · 1785–1810

    Clonakilty made rapid progress in population, industry, and opulence over the preceding twenty-five years, during which extensive quays, large corn stores, and many good dwelling-houses were built. Previously the town had few shops and residents depended on Bandon and Cork for basic goods, but by 1810 it was well supplied with markets and shops.

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    Cloghnikilty * has made a rapid progress in population, industry, and opulence, in the course of the last twenty-five years. Within that time have been built extensive quays, large corn stores, and a great many good dwelling-houses. Before that period there were few shops, and those, for the most part, so dear and ill -furnished, that most articles of common requirement were procured from Bandon and Cork. Now there is hardly any thing necessary for domestic use and accommodation, that may not be had on reasonable terms in the town. For the greater part of the year, the markets are well and cheaply supplied with butcher's meat, poultry, and fish. The profits of the retailing trade must be very considerable, that can enable shop-keepers to pay such heavy rents, as they frequently do, for central and convenient situations. Thirty and forty

    pounds

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along Clonakilty in Cork. Over the last twenty-five years, this town has made rapid progress in population, industry, and opulence. Extensive quays have been built, along with large corn stores and a great many good dwelling-houses. Before this period of growth, there were few shops here, and those that existed were so dear and ill-furnished that most articles of common requirement had to be procured from Bandon and Cork. Now there is hardly anything necessary for domestic use and accommodation that may not be had on reasonable terms in the town. For the greater part of the year, the markets are well and cheaply supplied with butcher's meat, poultry, and fish. The profits of the retail trade must be very considerable, to enable shop-keepers to pay thirty and forty pounds in rent for central and convenient situations.

57. Coal mining at Kanturk and Castlecor estate

    Kanturk · town · Cork

    Coal pits on Mr. Freeman's estate south-west of Kanturk, about eight miles from his residence at Castlecor, were being actively developed with a new water-wheel to work pumps. A vein of 'sweet coal' superior in purity to the common sulphureous type was discovered on his ground, fit for domestic use and roughly three feet thick near the surface.

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    it could not be confided to better bands. Some of the best pits are upon his estate, to the south-west of Kanturk, and about eight miles from his residence (Castle Cor). Under the direction of an experienced artist, he has just erected, at considerable expence, a large water-wheel, to work the pumps necessary for discharging the water of the pits. The shaft now sinking at the south side of the coalvein will, it is calculated, meet it, supposing that it descends with an uniform declination, at the depth of about an hundred feet. In this case the miners will have the advantage of working upwards, as well as laterally, the difficulty lessening as they proceed, the reverse of which has hitherto attended the more unskilful labours of preceding operators. In quality, the coal of Dubai low resembles that of Kilkenny, very sulphureous for the most part, and containing no bitumen. Though the genus* be the same in all, great difference is observable in the species. The far greater part is wholly unfit for domestic use, but upon Mr. Freeman's ground (and in one or two ott^er places) a bed has been discovered of superior purity, free from any dangerous or even disagreeable vapour, and perfectly fit for kitchen or parlour. This is distinguished by the name of sweet coal, and forms the object of his

    present

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 145

58. College of Mitchelstown charitable almshouse

    Mitchelstown · townland · Cork

    Lord Baron Kingston founded the College of Mitchelstown, an almshouse providing houses, gardens, and annual salaries for twelve decayed gentlemen and sixteen gentlewomen. The establishment included a chapel and chaplain's residence, with trustees being the archbishop of Cashel and bishops of Cloyne, Limerick, and Waterford.

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    Mitchelstown has been singularly distinguished by the liberality of charitable donation. Lord Baron Kingston, grandfather to the present lady, left a sum of money secured upon the Kingston estate, . the interest of which was to be applied in forming an establishment equally honourable to his humanity and his munificence. It is called the College of Mitchelstown, and provides for the comfortable maintenance of twelve decayed gentlemen, and as many gentlewomen, the latter of which have been since increased to sixteen. Each person has a house and small garden free of rent and taxes, and an annual salary of forty pounds, paid quarterly, and is under an obligation of residing, at least, ten months in the year. That nothing conducive to the support of declining years, or the consolation of afflicted minds, should be wanting, a chapel constitutes apart of the establishment, accompanied with an income of one hundred and twenty pounds per annum, and a good house, offices2 and garden for the chaplain. The trustees are, the archbishop of Cashel, and the bishops of Cloyne, Limerick,

    and

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 186

59. Cotton mill converted to flax and hemp spinning at Blarney

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    A cotton mill erected by Thomas Deaves at Blarney failed and was converted into a flax and hemp spinning mill and linen manufactory by James B. O'Sullivan. With 1500 spindles it gave employment to many children of the vicinity and enabled neighbouring weavers to stay at work during a scarcity of flax.

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    A v cotton mill of some extent, erected by Mr. Thomas Deaves, had experienced a failure very injurious to the undertaker and his associates. This has been changed into a flax and hemp spinning mill, linen manufactory, &c. There are now at full work in the concern 1 500 spindles giving employment to many children of the vicinity. In the Scotch and English mills the yarn is sent off to manufacturers ; here the whole process is combined within a small range. Sheeting of superior quality, 4 R 2 camp

    67U STATISTICAL SURVEY

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 238

60. Cove's rise from fishing village to naval station

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork

    Cove, situated on Great Island in Cork harbour, was until recently a poor village principally inhabited by fishermen. It grew prosperous during wartime through naval convoys and became the fixed station of a port admiral, with new streets, a costly quay, church, and chapel built by Lord Middleton and the Smith Barry estate.

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    trict, was, till within a late period, a poor village, * affording some little accommodation to such ships as remained in the harbour, but principally inhabited by fishermen. The time of war was always its time of harvest, in consequence of fleets assembling there for convoy, and king's ships occasionally visiting the harbour. It has now become the fixed station of a port admiral, and in consequence of the removal of the arsenal from Kinsale, and the erection of many strong fortifications, enjoys a permanence of profitable establishment, which peace will certainly impair, but not, as formerly, destroy. The principal proprietors are Lerd Middleton, and the representatives of the late Hugh Smith Barry, Esq. both possessing very large estates in this county. New and spacious streets have been lately built, chiefly on Lord Middleton's part; and on that of Mr. Barry a beautiful and extensive quay, of very difficult con- , struction from the steep and rocky nature of the shore. It is supposed to have cost near twenty thousand pounds. Cove has also a new church and Roman Catholic chapel, contains a great number of inhabitants, some of whom are very wealthy, and is upon the whole in a state of very rapid advancement

    • In the charter of Middleton, granted by Charles tbe second, and enumerating all Lord Middleton's estates in this quarter, do mention is made of a town at Core.

    Internet Archive statisticalsurv11socigoog, Chapter 210