A week at Killarney : with descriptions of the routes thither from Dublin, Cork, &c.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Ross Castle siege and prophecy, 1652

   Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1652

   Ross Castle was famous as the last in Munster to hold out against the Parliamentary army. In 1652 Ludlow, successor of Ireton, assisted by Sir Hardress Waller, laid siege to it; Lord Muskerry defended it with sufficient troops and provisions, yet it surrendered without a blow when the garrison saw war-ships on the lake, fulfilling an ancient prophecy.

   Read the passage

   a graceful and carefully kept flower-garden, where seats are placed so as to command the more striking and picturesque views ; and in every part, Nature has been so judiciously trained and guided, that the whole scene is one of surpassing beauty. The castle is a fine ruin ; much less injured by time than the majority of its co-mates in Kerry county. It is a tall, square, embattled building, based upon a limestone rock, sustained at the land side by a plain massive buttress ; from the northeast and north-west angles project two machicolated defences. It contains a spiral staircase of cut stone. It was erected by one of the earlier chieftains of the Donoghues.* It forms a conspicuous feature in the landscape from every part of the Lower Lake. During the war, the outbuildings were fitted up as a barrack. j- The castle is famous in Irish history as being the last in Munster to hold out against the Parliamentary army. In 1652, Ludlow, the successor of Ireton, assisted by Sir Hardress Waller, laid siege to it. It was defended by Lord Muskcrry with a sufficiency of troops, and an ample supply of provisions ; yet the castle, so well prepared for defence, surrendered upon articles, without striking a vigorous blow. The circumstance is attributable to the terror that seized upon the garrison when they beheld war-ships floating on the lake, in fulfilment of an ancient prophecy, which foretold that the castle could be taken only when an event occurred almost as improbable as that " Birnam Wood" should

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 87

2. Discovery of the Ogham Cave of Dunloe, 1838

   Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry · 1838

   In 1838, workmen constructing a sunk fence broke into a subterranean circular chamber with uncemented stone walls and a roof of long transverse stones. Human skulls and bones were found in the passage. The roof stones bear Ogham writing, making the cave a remarkable antiquity and evidence of ancient Irish literacy.

   Read the passage

   It is situated in a field immediately adjoining the high road ; and was discovered in 1838 by some workmen who, in constructing a sunk fence, broke into a subterranean chamber of a circular form, the walls of which were of uncemented stones inclining inwards, with a roof, also, of long transverse stones. In the passage were found several human skulls and bones.*

   This Cave of Dunloe must be regarded as an ancient Irish library, lately disinterred and restored to the light. The books are the large impost stones which form the roof. Their angles contain the writing. The discovery opens a new page concerning the hitherto tlisputed question touching the acquaintance of the ancient Irish with letters. The Ogham writing, as it is called, is stated to have been known and practised in Ireland long before the era of Christianity ; it is to the Irish antiquary what the Rimes are in the north, and the Arrow-headed or TFedge character is in Babylonia and Persepolis. It is more intelligible, however, than the latter, but far less known and elucidated than the former. As we have said, it has been a much disputed question amongst Irish writers ; and as, imtil a late period, it was nowhere found on monuments, there were not wanting persons disposed to treat the claims of its upholders with contempt, and to regard the character as the impostiu'e of idle bards and sennachies. The scale consists of four series of scores, each series embracing five characters, and each letter ranging from one score to five. The position of these groups in reference to a main or medial line, called Fleasg, constitutes their power. It has been called the Craov or branch Ogham, because it has been assimilated to a tree ; the fleas^g answering to the trunk or stem, and the scores at either side, or passing through it horizontally, or diagonally, to the branches. On the majority of the monuments on which it has been found, the angle is availed of to foiTH the fleasg. On the Callan-stone, and on one other hitherto discovered, the medial line is cut on the centre of the stone.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 78

3. Cahir Castle: structure and capture by Essex in 1599

   near Cahir Castle · castle · Tipperary · 1599

   Cahir Castle occupies an insular site with a great square keep surrounded by extensive outworks, an outer and inner ballium, and seven flanking towers. Its character in 1865 still closely resembled its appearance in 1599 when it was taken by the Earl of Essex, as depicted in the Pacata Hibernia. It had recently been repaired without injury to its picturesque effect.

   Read the passage

   the site on which a Caliir, or stone fort, was erected subsequently." It is of considerable extent, but irregular outline, consequent upon its adaptation to the form and broken surface of its insular site, and consists of a great square keep, surrounded by extensive outworks, forming an outer and an inner ballium, with a small court-yard between the two ; these outworks being flanked by seven towers, four of which are circular, and three of larger size, square. Its general character, even now, closely assimilates to that which it presented in 1599 (when it was taken by the Earl of Essex), as it is pictured in the Pacata Hibernia. Yery recently it has been put into thorough repair ; but so judiciously, that its picturesque etfect is in no degree injured. At a short distance up the river are the ruins of an ancient monastery, built, it is said in the reign of King John, for canons regular of the order of St. Augustin.

   The town of Cahir has a remarkably cheerful aspect, and its prosperity is not alone upon the surface ; it is derived principally from the extensive flour- mills, actively and continually at work, in the immediate neighbourhood, and conducted almost exclusively by the " people called Quakers." There are, in several pa)-ts of the south of Ireland, towns universally known and distinguished as " Quaker Towns" — they are remarkable for neatness and cleanliness, for the industry and sobriety of the inhabitants, and an air of comfort and good order in their dwellings — so surely does a good example influence all within its reach. The railway bridge which here crosses the

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 51

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Cahir Castle, near here, stands a fortress built on an island, its walls shaped to the broken ground they sit on. The name Cahir itself comes from a stone fort that once stood on this site. What you see is a great square keep, ringed by extensive outworks forming an outer and an inner ballium, with a small court-yard between the two. Seven towers flank these works, four of them circular and three larger ones square. In 1599 the Earl of Essex took this castle, and a picture of it from that time survives in the Pacata Hibernia. Even now its general character closely matches that 1599 appearance. The castle has recently been put into thorough repair, but so judiciously that its picturesque effect is in no degree injured. A short distance up the river stand the ruins of an ancient monastery, said to have been built in the reign of King John for canons regular of the order of Saint Augustin. The town of Cahir itself has a cheerful aspect, its prosperity drawn principally from extensive flour mills in the immediate neighbourhood, mills actively and continually at work and conducted almost exclusively by people called Quakers. Several towns in the south of Ireland are known as Quaker Towns, remarkable for neatness and cleanliness, for the industry and sobriety of their inhabitants, and an air of comfort and good order in their dwellings.

4. French invasion fleet anchors at Bantry Bay

   near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1796–1797

   In December 1796, a French fleet of 43 ships sailed from Brest but only 16 reached Bantry Bay. A gale dispersed them, and a council of war decided against landing as no Irish uprising materialised. The fleet departed, and Bantry was freed from the threat of invasion without any Frenchman treading on Irish ground.

   Read the passage

   other, in vain, along the ocean. Of the 43 that quitted Brest, 16 only anchored at Bantry ; next day a heavy gale once more dispersed them. On the morning of the 26th, others having parted company, the fleet was reduced to seven sail of the line and one frigate. The force in men had by this time dwindled to 4,168; it was, therefore, resolved at a council of war " not to attempt a landing, as no demonstration had been made " by the Irish on shore in favour of the French ;•'• and it was determined to put out to sea, and to cruise off the Shannon, in the hope that the dissevered armament might be concentrated there. On the 27th, they weighed anchor and quitted the Bay ; but on the 1st of January a portion of them returned, and remained inactive for two or three days. By degrees, ship after ship of the once formidable fleet re-entered the French harbours ; and on the 15th, Hoche himself, in the "Fraternite," reached Kochelle, having had several narrow escapes from captui-e by the English fleet.

   Bantry was, thus, soon freed from the presence of invaders ; no Frenchmen having trodden upon Irish ground, excepting an officer and seven men, who being sent in a boat to reconnoitre, were taken prisoners.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 33

5. Listowel and the Feal: Desmond heir tradition

   Listowel · town · Kerry

   Listowel is watered by the Feal, a river immortalised by an Irish poet in a song founded on a tradition. The young heir of the princely Desmonds, benighted while hunting, took shelter with a dependant named Mac Cormac and married his daughter, alienating followers who regarded the match as a family degradation.

   Read the passage

   Lord Kerry against the Lord President, was besieged by Sir Charles "Wilmot. Listowel is watered by the Feal, a river which the Irish poet has immortalised in one of the sweetest of his songs ; founded on a tradition, that the young heir of the princely Desmonds, having been benighted while hunting, took shelter in the house of one of his dependants, named Mac Cormac, with whose fair daughter he became suddenly enamoured. " He mamed her ; and by this infeiior alliance alienated his followers, whose brutal pride regarded this indulgence of his love as an unpardonable degi-adation of his family."

   A few miles "out of the road" are the far-famed caves of Ballybunian. They are not often visited ; yet may be classed among the most remarkable of the natural wonders of Ireland. The only county historian alludes to them very briefly : — " The whole shore here hath a variety of romantic caves and caverns, formed by the dashing of the waves ; in some places are high open arches, and in others impending rocks, ready to tumble down upon the first storm." A small volume descriptive of them was published in 1834, by Francis Ainsworth, Esq., to whom we must refer the reader. They are distinguished by names, each name bearing reference to some particular circumstance: as, "the Hunter's Path," from a tradition that a rider once rode his horse over it ; " Smugglers' Bay," for centuries famous as a shelter for " free traders;" the "Seal Cave," &c. &c.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 108

6. Colonel Hall's force marches to Bantry amid loyal peasantry

   Bantry · town · Cork · 1796

   Colonel Hall commanded about 700 men hastily collected and sent to oppose the French landing at Bantry. His troops were cheered by the peasantry, supplied with food and drink, and received unequivocal demonstrations of the people's resolve to fight the French from their cabin-thresholds.

   Read the passage

   * The French had marvellously miscalculated as to the co-operation they anticipated from the Irish people ; who were, in 1796, totally unprepared to receive tliem as friends, or to adopt the republican prino'iples and goveninient they designed to disseminate and establish. In his memorials to the Directoiy, Tone had represented the Irish as " tixing their eyes most earnestly on France," as " eager to Hy to the standai'd of the republic ; " the Caiholics as " ready to join it to a man ;"' and tliat " it would be just as easy, in a month, to have an army in Ireland of 200,000 men as 10,000." Whetlier he had wilfully misstated the fact, or whether his sanguine temperament had led him to believe that his countrj-men would join the French en masse, it is difficult to say; but it is certain that the invaders would have been received by the Irish generally, not as friends, but as enemies. Along the coast, the south and west, most distinctly tlu-eatened, the peasants were actually in arms — such anns as they could command— to repel them. We have frequently heaid Colonel Hall state that on his marcli to Bantry his men were cheered by the peasantry, supplied with food and drink by them, and received unequivocal demonstrations nf their resolve to fight upon their cabin-thresliolds against the entrance of a Frenchman. (Colonel Hall commantied tlie small force of about 700 men, hastily collected, and foolishly sent " to oppose the landing of the French.") In the London Gazette of the 7th of January, 1797, this feeUng is particularly adverted to. " llie accounts of the disposition of the country where the troops are assembled aie as favourable as possible, and the greatest loyalty has manifested itself throughout the kingdom. In the south and west, when the troops have been in motion, they have been met by the countiy people of all descriptions with provisions and all sorts of accommodation to faciUtate their march; and every demonstration has been given of the zeal and ardour to oppose the enemy in every place where it could be supposed a descent might be attempted." The Gazette of tlie 17th contains a letter from the lord-Ueutenant (Karl Camden), in which, after noticing the good disposition evinced by the troops, his excellency states, "The roads, which in parts were rendered impassable by the snow, were cleai-ed by the peasantry. The poor people often shared tlicir iiotutoes with the soldiers » » » In sliort, had the enemy landed, then- hope of assistance from the inhabitants would have been totally disappointed." Every account pubUshed at the time bears out this statement.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 33

   As the companion tells it

   As the road passes through Bantry, a coastal town in County Cork. In 1796, a French fleet arrived in Bantry Bay. The Irish peasantry, contrary to French expectations, did not welcome the invaders. Instead, they took up arms to repel them. Colonel Hall commanded a small force of about 700 men, hastily collected and sent to oppose the landing. He later recounted that on his march to Bantry, his men were cheered by the peasantry, who supplied them with food and drink. From their cabin thresholds, the people demonstrated their resolve to fight against any Frenchman who might enter. The London Gazette of 7 January 1797 noted the favorable disposition of the country where troops were assembled and the greatest loyalty manifested throughout the kingdom. It recorded that in the south and west, troops in motion were met by country people of all descriptions with provisions and all sorts of accommodation to facilitate their march, and that every demonstration was given of zeal and ardor to oppose the enemy in every place where a descent might be attempted. The Gazette of 17 January contained a letter from the lord-lieutenant, Earl Camden, who stated that the roads, rendered impassable in parts by snow, were cleared by the peasantry. He wrote that the poor people often shared their potatoes with the soldiers, and that had the enemy landed, their hope of assistance from the inhabitants would have been totally disappointed.

7. Knockgraffon moat and fairy lore

   Knockgraffon · townland · Tipperary

   The moat of Knockgraffon is the setting of several of Croker's fairy legends and a treasury of legendary lore. Local aged women preserved traditions of ancient Irish kings and fairies who guard their hereditary dominions, and Dr. Keating's wild fictions were found alive among the peasantry.

   Read the passage

   The moat of KnockgrafFon is the scene of several of Croker's fairy legends. It is indeed a treasury of legendary lore ; we gathered from some of the aged women in the neighbourhood a store of traditions of the ancient Irish kings, and of the fairies who still continue to guard their hereditary dominions, to which they are expected, at some future period, to lay claim, and again govern "in the flesh." The wild fictions of Dr. Keating (a native of, and long a resident in, the neighbourhood) are rife among the peasantry ; in many instances we found precisely the incidents and events, which the doctor dignified by the term " history," preserved by the memories of old and young in this remarkable locality.

   Leaving this district, we come in view of the famous Glen of Aherloe — long notorious in the sad records of agrarian disturbances for which Tipperary county has been " renowned; " but which happily is now but a theme of history : there are at present few more tranquil and well-ordered shires in Ireland.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 52

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is the moat of Knockgraffon, the scene of several of Croker's fairy legends. It is a treasury of legendary lore. Aged women in the neighbourhood kept alive a store of traditions about the ancient Irish kings, and about the fairies who still guard their hereditary dominions. Those fairies are expected, at some future period, to lay claim to those dominions and again govern, in the words of the source, "in the flesh." The wild fictions of Dr. Keating are rife among the peasantry here. Keating was a native of the neighbourhood and long a resident in it. In many instances, the incidents and events the doctor dignified by the term history were found preserved by the memories of old and young alike in this remarkable locality. What one writer set down as fact, the people here carried as living memory.

8. Monkstown Castle built for a groat, 1636

   Monkstown · townland · Cork · 1636–1688

   Monkstown Castle was built in 1636. Popular tradition holds it cost only a groat: Anastatia Goold, wife of John Archdeken, supplied workmen with provisions at retail prices while buying wholesale, so the profit covered all building costs except fourpence. The Archdeken family, who became 'more Irish than the Irish' and took the name Mac Odo, forfeited the estate in 1688 after following James II.

   Read the passage

   Leaving these islands to the left, the voyager passes up the beautiful river; rounding a wooded promontory, the village and castle of Monkstown come in sight. The castle was built in the year 1636, and, according to popular tradition, at the cost of a groat. To explain the enigma, the following story is told : — Anastatia Goold, who had become the wife of John Archdckcn, determined while her husband was abroad, serving in the army of Philip of Spain, to give him evidence of her thrift on his return, by surprising him with a noble residence which he might call his own. Her plan was, to supply the workmen with provisions and other articles they required, for which she charged the ordinary price ; but as she had made her purchases wholesale, upon balancing her accounts it appeared that the retail profit had paid all the expenses of the structure, except fourpcncc ! The Archdekens were an Anglo-Irish family, who, "degenerating," became " Hibernices quam Hiberniores " — more Irish than tlie Irish themselves — and assumed the name of Mac Odo, or Cody. They "forfeited" in 1688, having followed the fortunes of James II.

   About a mile nearer the city is the village of Passage, where all large vessels discharge their cargoes, and where an excellent quay has been built to facilitate the

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 14

9. Beggars' rents collected at old entrance to Kerry

   Kenmare · townland · Kerry

   A tradition held that at stated seasons the agents of the lord of the land stationed themselves at the old entrance into County Kerry to meet beggars returning homewards from Cork to Kerry, collecting the rents of their cabins by taking the half-pence they had gathered through begging.

   Read the passage

   Cork and Kerry. The entrance to the county of Kerry (" the kingdom of Kerry," as it was anciently called), from that of Cork, is through a tunnel of about two hundred yards in length ; a very short distance from which there are two others of much more limited extent. They have been cut through rocks, peaks to the Esk mountain. As the traveller emerges from comparative darkness, a scene of striking magnificence bursts upon him, very opposite in character from that which he leaves immediately behind ; for while his eye retains the rich and cultivated beauty of the wooded and watered " glen," he is startled by the contrast of barren and frightful precipices along the brinks of which he is driving, and gazes with a shudder down into the fai'-off valley, where a broad and angry stream is diminished by distance into a m(>re line of white. Nothing can exceed the wild grandem- of the prospect ; it extends miles upon miles : scattered through the vale and among the hill slopes are many cottages, white always, and generally slated ; while to several of them are attached the picturesque limekilns so numerous in all parts of the country. The road, of which there is a view almost the whole way to Kcnmare Harbour, is a gradual descent, and has been so admirably constructed, and is kept so carefully in repair, that it is smooth and finished enough to be the entiy to a demesne, and is classed by universal consent among the best roads of the kingdom ; such was not always the case ; at one period it was proverbial for the poverty of the land and the wretchedness of its inhabitants. The misery of the soil has been illustrated by a saying, that " a Kerry cow never looks up at a passing stranger, for fear it would lose the hite ;'''' and it was asserted that, long ago, at stated seasons, the agents of the lord of the land stationed themselves at the old entrance into the county to meet the beggars as they were returning homewards from Cork to Kerry, and received the rents of their cabins by taking from them the half-pence they had collected.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Kenmare, the old entrance into County Kerry once had a grim custom attached to it. Kerry itself was anciently called the kingdom of Kerry, and the traveller coming from Cork passed through a tunnel of about 200 yards cut through the rocks of the Esk mountain, with two shorter tunnels close by. Emerging from that darkness, the scene changes sharply. Behind is a wooded and watered glen, rich and cultivated. Ahead are barren and frightful precipices, and far below a broad angry stream shrunk by distance to a line of white. The wild grandeur stretches for miles, with white slated cottages scattered through the valley and along the hill slopes, many of them with the picturesque limekilns found all over the country. The road descends gradually toward Kenmare Harbour and is so well built and kept that it might be the entry to a demesne. It is counted among the best roads in the kingdom. But it was not always so. At one period the land was proverbial for its poverty and the wretchedness of its people. A saying went that a Kerry cow never looks up at a passing stranger, for fear it would lose the bite. And it was asserted that long ago, at stated seasons, the agents of the lord of the land stationed themselves at the old entrance into the county, to meet the beggars as they were returning homewards from Cork to Kerry, and took the rents of their cabins by collecting the half-pence the beggars had gathered.

10. French invasion fleet anchored off Bere Island in 1796

    near Bear Island · island or archipelago · Cork · 1796

    In December 1796, a large French expeditionary fleet of about 14,000 men under Wolfe Tone's influence set sail from Brest and anchored off Bere Island in Bantry Bay on the 22nd. Storms and fog ultimately prevented the landing, averting what could have been a bloody war in Ireland.

    Read the passage

    subsequently to encounter, one of their ships, a seventy-four, struck on a rock, and of 550 men on board only thirty were saved ; and a few days afterwards another was driven on shore, when 1,000 out of 1,800 perisfied. After other disastrous accidents — every ship of the line being more or less injured — the main body arrived off the coast of Ireland, and on the 22nd anchored oflf Bere Island, in Bantry Bay. Intelligence of the event was, as rapidly as possible, communicated to the Irish and English governments. Not the slightest preparation, however, had been made to meet the enemy ; and, but for the interposition of Divine Providence, Ireland must have been the seat of a bloody and desolating war.

    For several days previous, the weather had been very stormy ; and when the wind lulled, a dense fog overspread the sea, so that the French ships were seeking each

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 32

11. Legend of a lost city beneath the Shannon estuary

    near Shannon Estuary · estuary · Kerry

    Local inhabitants of the Shannon mouth point to a part of the estuary where tides rush violently, claiming it is the site of a lost city buried beneath the waves. Its towers and spires are said to act as breakers, and the whole city becomes visible every seventh year, though the sight bodes ill-luck to fishermen.

    Read the passage

    The mouth of the Shannon is grand almost beyond conception. Its inhabitants point to a part of the river, within the headlands, over which the tides rush with extraordinary rapidity and violence. They say it is the site of a lost city, long buried beneath the waves ; and that its towers, and spires, and turrets, acting as breakers against the tide- water, occasion the roughness of this part of the estuary. The whole city becomes visible every seventh year, and has been often seen by the fishermen sailing over it ; but the sight bodes ill-luck.

    Nearly opposite Kilrush is the far-famed island of Scattery, memorable in ecclesiastical history, and celebrated as the residence of that ungaUant and un-Irish saint — St. Senanus — who having

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 109

12. Legend of the Lone Widow at Ross Island quay

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    A local legend tells of a distressed widow near Killarney who, facing eviction by a hard sub-letter, walked to the quay of Ross Island to pray. There she met a tall gentleman—identified as the spirit of O'Donoghue—who gave her gold pieces to pay her rent; by morning the gold in the landlord's strong box had turned to arbutus leaves.

    Read the passage

    Killamey is no more exempt than other parts of Ireland from ^^ hard men,'''' — subletters of the soil, who extort to the uttermost farthing. One of these had been "very hard intirely" upon a widow — a lone woman — who had been industrious but unfortunate. He had come to her " little place,"' and told her that unless her rent was paid the next morning, he would distrain forthwith— there should be no more delay. The widow knew that, as the man had no pity, her time was come. She sat for a few minutes, watching the turf ashes smoulder upon the hearth, wondering if they would go out or continue burning until after twelve — and then, throwing the hood of her cloak over her face, she thought she would just walk down to the quay of Ross Island, and " see if the air would raise her heart." She came to the quay, and sat down, praying (if it was God's will) that He would take her out of her trouble ^-that she might be as calm as the lake ; and she prayed also for patience, and when she arose, she felt stronger both in body and mind than she had been for many a long day. She turned her steps homeward, but, just as she raised her eyes, "she was struck," by seeing a tali fine-looking gentleman before her. She curtsied, and was passing on, when he bid her good evening, very kindly, and asked her what she was doing there by herself so late, just as the moon was rising ; so she told him how her little place was to be taken from her in the morning, and how she had come out just to breathe the fresh air, and be alone with God and her own heart for a while, and was going home to sleep, maybe for the last time, under her own roof. The gentleman watched every word she said, and asked her how much she owed ; and she told him, and it was both a long gale and a heavy rent. So he made no more words, but pulling out a purse that looked both long and heavy, " Take those," he says, " and go home, and pay your rent before a witness, and take a receipt." Well, they were gold pieces she held in her hand, and while she was down on her knees blessing him he was gone. So she went home, and calling on a neighbour, they both went to the hard man's door. " It's no use," he says — and he smoking his pipe like a gentleman/ore?«'«i^ his tumbler of punch — "it's no use, ma'am, coming to me; — -the money — or the road." " Here's the money, sir," she says, " if you'll be pleased to give me the receipt." Well, to see the look he gave at her, and then at the money — and then at her again — and how he tested the gold, and was mean enough to ask her how she got it — for the rich of his kind are mighty fond of thinking the poor are thieves — but she scorned to give him any satisfaction beyond the money ; — her neighbour saw her pay it, and she took her receipt, and the hard man locked up the rent in his strong box : but the next morning — never was there anything higher than the " ullagawn " he raised — for in place of the ten gold pieces the widow gave him, what had he in the strong box but ten " arrabutus leaves! " — and then all the town knew it was U'Donoghue himself that righted the poor widow, and punished the hard man."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 91

13. O'Donoghue legend of the drowning of the Killarney valley

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    A legend attributes the creation of the Killarney lakes to an O'Donoghue who, sceptical and drunk, removed the enchanted stone over a well-head, causing an overnight inundation that drowned the entire valley. The legend holds that the submerged people still live beneath the lake, where O'Donoghue rules in a gorgeous palace.

    Read the passage

    The legends all agree, however, that the men and women who then peopled the lovely valley did not perish, but still exist beneath the lake ; where the O'Donoghue continues to lord it over his people, living in his gorgeous palace, surrounded by faithful friends and devoted followers, and enjoying the delights of feasting, dancing, and music, as fully as he did upon dry land. Many a time and oft as by the backs of the lake

    " The fisherman strays Wlien the clear cold eve's declining, He sees the round towers of other daj's In the wave beneath him shinuig."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

14. Sieges of Waterford

    Waterford · city · Waterford

    Waterford played a conspicuous part in Irish conflicts, enduring sieges from Strongbow, Cromwell, and William III. Its citizens famously fought Perkin Warbeck for eleven days, earning the city motto 'Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia'.

    Read the passage

    translations. In the various contests of which Ireland has been the arena, Waterford has played a conspicuous part ; having endured sieges from Strongbow, Cromwell, and William III., to say nothing of Perkin Warbeck, against whom the citizens fought lustily for eleven days, bringing many prisoners into the city, " who had their heads chopped oft" in the market-place." For their gallantry they received, among other honour's, the motto they still retain —

    " rUBS INTACTA 3JA.XET WATEEFOKDIA."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 46

15. Bannow Church and the buried town

    Bannow · townland · Wexford

    The old church of Bannow sits atop a hill overlooking a town buried long ago in sand, known as the 'Irish Herculaneum'. This site preserves the memory of a lost settlement.

    Read the passage

    and where the first hostile Englishman trode upon Irish soil. Farther inland is the castle and village of Fethaed — a corruption of "Fought hard" — where the Irish made theii- earliest stand against the onward march of the Anglo-Xorman invaders,* under Strongbow. At the extremity of its broad bay is the ancient abbey of Tinteex ; and, at the termination of a narrow creek, are the seven castles of Clonraines. On the land opposite, the old church of Bannow crowns the summit of a small hill that looks down upon " the Irish Herculaneum " — a town buried long ago in the sand. Looking seaward again, tlie eye falls upon the two small islands called " the Keeroes" — then

    upon a narrow neck of land, that,

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 45

16. Ogham stone stolen from Aghadoe churchyard, now at Aghadoe House

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    An Ogham stone described by Vallancey and Weld as located in the north-west corner of Aghadoe church was stolen by a Killarney butcher to make a doorstep. It was discovered in time and rescued, though broken, and now resides in the grounds of Aghadoe House.

    Read the passage

    The Ogham stone described by Vallencey, and referred to by Mr. Weld, as " in the north-west corner of the church, of Aghadoe," is now in the grounds of Aghadoe House. It was stolen from the chm-chyard by a Killarney butcher, to make a stoue for his " hall door; " and was luckily discovered in time to be rescued, although not before it was broken.

    t It stands sixty feet from theN.W. angle of the church, and is called " The Pulpit " by the peasantry. All that now remains of this ancient structure is the basement, reaching from the sill of tlie door downward. The height is about fifteen feet ; it measures in its outer circumference fifty-two feet ; the diameter within the walls is six feet ten inches ; the wall is four feet six inches thick. The stones are large, regular, and well-dressed. The greater part of the facing stone of the north side has been unfortunately taken away for the erection of tombs in the adjacent burying-ground. Within and without the spoiliator has been effectually at work, aided liy those worst of pests, the gold-seekers, whose unhallowed dreams are most fatal to our antiquities. 'I his tower must liave fallen previously to the last centiu'y ; but no notice of it in its erect state has sui-vived." — Windele.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 77

17. Clonmel town wall, Magazine tower, and Cromwell's breach

    Clonmel · town · Tipperary · 1650

    Remains of the old town wall surround three sides of the graveyard at St. Mary's, with small square towers at intervals and a massive bomb-proof tower called 'the Magazine' at the north-west angle. Tradition identifies a gap in the wall as the breach made by Cromwell when he besieged and took Clonmel.

    Read the passage

    through a stone Gothic portico, which, though well built, docs not hamionise at all with the general tone and character of the building. Surrounding three sides of the graveyard are the remains of the old town wall, on which, with a view more effectually to protect it, are small square towers at stated intervals ; at the northwest angle of the wall is a massive bomb-proof tower, called "the Magazine;" about 120 yards south of this tower, thei'e is a portion of the wall wanting, which tradition points out as being the breach made by Cromwell when he besieged and took Clonmcl.

    Clonmcl is remarkable as the birthplace of Lawrence Sterne ; and of this town the accomplished Countess of Blessington was also a native.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now, Clonmel in Tipperary. Around the graveyard at St. Mary's, the old town wall still stands on three sides, with small square towers set at intervals along it. At the wall's north-west angle there is a massive bomb-proof tower called the Magazine. About 120 yards south of that tower, a section of the wall is missing. Tradition says that gap is the breach Cromwell made when he besieged and took Clonmel in 1650. The town is also the birthplace of Laurence Sterne, and the Countess of Blessington was a native here too.

18. Industrial transformation of Portlaw by the Malcolmsons

    Portlaw · town · Waterford

    Portlaw was transformed from a wretched village into a flourishing town of 5,000 inhabitants by the Malcolmson family, who established a cotton factory there. The cotton was shipped globally in vessels built in Waterford.

    Read the passage

    ranks among the noblest rivers of Ireland ; it is broad, deep, not too rapid, and its character is highly picturesque, both above and below the city. It is by the side of this river the railway goes a long way. The first station is Grange, the next Poetlaw. Portlaw is now a flourishing town, made so by the " Malcolmsons." A few years ago it was a wretched village, among the most wretched of Ireland. It now, we understand, contains 5,000 inhabitants; for here is the cotton factory of this enterprising family ; here it is manufactured ; and hence it is sent in their own vessels, built in Waterford, to all parts of the world. The Messrs. Malcolmson have made — deservedly and most honourably made — large fortunes by this concern ; and they have set an example we may hope to see extensively followed.

    It has, indeed, been for a long time obvious that Ireland, with its immense waterpower and its superabundant population, living cheaply, and therefore able to work cheaply, was peculiarly calculated to manufacture articles in cotton ; but, unhappily, there has been so entire a want of confidence in the steadiness and sobriety of the people, that few were found willing to risk a property which might be destroyed by the evil passions or caprice of a single individual, influencing other individuals. Happily, all difficulties of this kind are now removed ; capital is rapidly finding its way into Ireland, and there can be no doubt of its being at no distant period " a great manufacturing country," in which there will be many places flourishing like Portlaw, under the auspices of other such men as the Malcolmsons.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 47

19. O'Donoghue leap legend at Ross Castle

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    The peasantry identify a window at Ross Castle from which the O'Donoghue leapt into the lake, exchanging earthly sovereignty for rule beneath the waters. He remains an enchanted spirit there, doomed to ride annually until his silver shoes wear out on the water's surface.

    Read the passage

    * Of course the several legends connected with the name of the O'Donoshne have their source in this, his castle of Ross. The peasantry will point out the window from which he leaped into the lake when he exchanrred his sovereignity on earth for that of the waters under it. He was endowed, they say, with the gift of transforming himself into any shape, and his wife requested him to exhibit some of his transformations before her. He warned her that if he did so, and she displayed any symptoms of fear, they would be separated for ever. She still persisted, in the spirit of female curiosity, and in perfect confidence that she could look on unmoved. On his assuming, however, some verj' terrible sha|ie, she shrieked with terror. He immediately sprang from the window into the lake below, and remains there an enchanted spirit ; his enchantment to continue until, by his brief annual ride, his silver shoes are worn out by the attrition of the surface of the water. Of the race of the O'Donoghues, "the Annals of Inisfallen " have furnished various jiarticulars, which give a pretty clear insight into the character of gone-by times, when "might made right," and illustrate the utter insecurity of life and property,that kept the "petty kings" always armed lestthe stronger should come and strip them. From the year 1024 to 1238, of the " Kings of Loclia Lein," nineteen out of twenty were " slain ;" some in open fight, some by treachery, and some having been previously driven out of their territories. The last item in the dismal account stands thus: — " Jeoffery O'l'onoghue, and Saova, daughter of Douchad Cairbreach O'Brien, his wife, as also his brother and his three sons, burned in his house at the garden of the Grcenford, by Finecn jVI'Donnell Gud, being betrayed by his own huntsman." Among the "fierce leaders of battles," nevertheless, there were a few distinguished as " gentle at arms;'' and some who " never forsook the muse." This list, however, which gives so dark a picture of the ape, refers to the O'Donoghue of the Glens, and not to the ancestors of the spirit chieftain. Yet the milder branch has aUogether withered and vanished; wliile of the "turbulent," "the ruthless,' the "proud and stern in battle," the representative still exists.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 88

20. Priest's Leap road: old road-making and leacht murder markers

    Priest's Leap · pass · Kerry

    The old Priest's Leap road exemplifies the uncompromising old system of road-making that followed the straightest line regardless of terrain. Along its lonely paths, 'leacht' stone-heaps mark spots where travellers were murdered by way-side plunderers, and peasants still fling stones onto these heaps as a solemn duty.

    Read the passage

    most picturesque portions of Irish scenery, GlengarifF and Killarney, but now abandoned for one of the best roads in the kingdom. This okl road possesses to perfection the characteristics of the fine old vigorous and uncompromising system of road-making, now exploded, that was observant only of the straightest line of access — following as nearly as possible the flight of the bird — regardless alike of acclivity or declivity, of cliff or crag, of stream or torrent. In this respect the Priest's Leap road offers to every student of the ancient mystery of road-making the fairest subject for inquiry and contemplation; nothing can be more direct than its up-hill flights, or more decided and unswerving than its downward progressions ; no mountain elevation, however bristling with crags or formidable the aspect of its precipitous sides, deterred the stern and uncompromising engineer who laid it down. He carried it over the loftiest summits, the wildest moors, at the bottom of the most desolate glens, and along the most dizzy steeps overlooking the deepest dells. A savage-looking defile is sometimes made available as a conduit for every ferocious breeze that loves to howl and sweep along such localities ; and the loneliness of many of the scenes is emphatically marked by the significant " leacht," or stone-heap, that points out the spot where, in other times, some solitary traveller met his fate from the way-side plunderer. Such alarming "hints" are now, indeed, rare; and, of later years, the record of acts of violence, committed in the security of these seldomtrodden paths, is a ban^en one. The heaps of stones, to indicate where deeds of murder have been done, still remain, however ; and to the present day the peasant discharges what he considers his solemn duty by flinging, as he walks or rides by, a contribution to the mass.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 34

21. Prince of Wales guided around Killarney by Stephen Spillane

    Killarney · town · Kerry · 1858

    In the spring of 1858, the Prince of Wales spent eight days at the Royal Victoria Lake Hotel in Killarney. Stephen Spillane served as his guide, and Micky Sullivan drove him to locations including Valentia and the wild sea-coast.

    Read the passage

    The guide for whom all parties inquire — and ought to inquire — is Stephen Spillane. Stephen is, perhaps, better fitted for the new, than he would have been for the old, order of things; for he is of new, rather than of old, Ireland; a young man of good education, a teetotaller, and, although quite as courteous and actively obliging as his predecessors, he is acquainted with none of the " tricks " which, it must be confessed, have given their renown to Irish guides. He is a good angler, plays a bugle second only to his father, and in addition to being exceedingly well read in the history of the district, he is familiar with all the legends concerning which the Tourist should be anxious to hear. AYe consider, indeed, that Stephen Spillane is an acquisition to Killarney ; and rejoice that, if the fun, and frolic, and " rollicking " of the guide are daily becoming more and more matters of history, in their successors we find greater intelligence supplying the place of wit ; and at least as much civility, attention, and zeal."^' Stephen had, in the spring of 1858, the honour to act as guide to his Eoyal Highness the Prince of Wales, during his Eoyal Highness's sojourn of eight days at " The Royal Yictoria Lake Hotel," accompanying him also to Yalentia and the wild sea-coast ; Micky Sullivan having had the honour to be his driver — the Prince using, on that occasion, the common car of the country. Stephen does not by any means appear to have been " puflcd up " by the privilege he enjoyed of so long and so often sitting beside the heir-apparent; but he speaks, in tenns it was very gratifying to hear, of the Prince's condescending and unaffected goodness to all who came within his reach. So also it may be said of the "charioteer," Micky Sullivan. His Royal Highness is a pleasant and happy "memory" at Killarney.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 61

22. Scattery Island and St. Senanus

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare

    Scattery Island, opposite Kilrush, is celebrated in ecclesiastical history as the residence of St. Senanus, who swore no woman should set foot on the island. St. Cannera was brought by an angel to the island to meet him, but was refused entry by the saint.

    Read the passage

    Nearly opposite Kilrush is the far-famed island of Scattery, memorable in ecclesiastical history, and celebrated as the residence of that ungaUant and un-Irish saint — St. Senanus — who having

    " sworn his sainted sod Should ne'er by woman's feet be trod,"

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 109

23. Folklore of eagle's nest robbery attempts

    Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

    Local peasants recounted stories of daring attempts to rob the eagle's nest at this prominent rock on the Killarney lakes. One humorous tale tells of a soldier who tried to steal the eaglets but was confronted by the mother eagle, who used the mountain echo to expose his intentions and sent him tumbling into the lake.

    Read the passage

    * The peasants relate several amusing stones of attempts to rob the " Aigle's Nest ; " and many feats are detailed of the efforts of daring mountaineers to make property of the royal progeny. The boatmen tell an illustrative anecdote of a " vagabone " sold.er, " who says, says he, ■ I'll go" bail I'll rob it,' says he. ' Maybe you will, and maybe you won't,' says the aigle ; and with that she purtinded to tiy off wid herself. So the sodger, when he sees that, lets himself down by a long npe he had with him; and, • I have ye now by your sharp noses, every mother's son of ye,' says he. When all of a sudden out conies the ould aigle, from a thunder cloud, and says veiy civilly, says she. • Good morrow, sir,' sa s she; "and what brings ye to visit my fine family so airly, before they've had their break'a^t?' says she. 'Oh, nothing at idl,' says the sodger, who ye see was gratcly frightened ; ' only to ax after their health, ma'am,' says he, « and

    L'r a one of em ha: brought some blai"

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 81

24. King John's Castle and Limerick's royal charter

    Limerick · city · Limerick

    Limerick's charter dates to the reign of Richard I. King John, pleased with the city's agreeableness, ordered a fine castle and bridge built there. The castle endured over six centuries as Ireland's most coveted stronghold.

    Read the passage

    The charter of Limerick is as old as Eichard the First ; and King John, according to Stanihurst, "was so pleased with the agreeableness of the city that he caused a very fine castle and bridge to be built there." The castle has endured for above six centuries; in all the "battles, sieges, fortunes," that have since occurred, it has been the object most coveted perhaps in Ireland by the contending parties ; and it still frowns a dark mass, upon the waters of the mighty Shannon. Eecently, improvements that have taken place in the

    CAblLE 01 LIMEHICK.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Limerick, you are in a city whose charter goes back to the reign of Richard the First. King John, according to Stanihurst, was so pleased with the agreeableness of the city that he caused a very fine castle and bridge to be built there. That castle endured for above six centuries. In all the battles, sieges, and fortunes that followed, it was the object most coveted in Ireland by the contending parties. It still frowns a dark mass upon the waters of the mighty Shannon.

25. Lady Kenmare's cottage ornée at Glena

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    Lady Kenmare built a cottage ornée in the valley of Glena, designed in keeping with the natural beauty of the scene. A separate cottage for the accommodation of strangers was also erected in a forest glade near the shore, where visitors could dine and enjoy entertainment by the piper O'Leary and dancers.

    Read the passage

    built a cottage-oruee in this delicious valley ; it is in happy keeping with the beautiful and graceful scene, and the walks and gardens that surround it are so formed and disposed as in no degree to deduct from its simple beauty. Here, also, a pretty and convenient cottage has been erected for the accommodation of strangers : it is placed in one of the forest glades, close to the shore. Here we rested awhile ; enjoyed a plentiful dinner, which Mr. Goodman had prepared for us ; and here O'Leary *' played the pipes," while Jerry Clifford danced a jig with a pretty colleen. The day was fine, and it was indeed a happy day — a day to remember as long as we live.*

    We had with us on that delicious day a pleasant companion and a kind and sympathising friend — who has since left earth. He thoroughly enjoyed the scene, his generous nature entering fully into the spirit of tranquil happiness it inspired. His name is in no way known to fame, and we do not here give it record. But his spirit will accept this loving tribute to his memory, and it will surely be with us when we again visit beautiful Killarney.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 85

26. O'Donoghue's supernatural hurling match at Castle Lough

    Castle Lough · lake or lakes · Clare

    In the legend of O'Donoghue, Jerry the innocent boy is told to come to Castle Lough at dawn and watch silently. There he sees the Emperor of Prussia, the Prince of France, and the King of Russia with their hurlers walking on the lake, challenged by O'Donoghue and his Kerry boys with black oak hurleys and white silk shirts tied with green, to the music of O'Donoghue's whistle.

    Read the passage

    " So Jerry thought he'd take one day's divarshun out of himself; and sure enough he was earlier than the sunbeam at Castle Lough — and doing as he was bid — and there he saw the Emperor of Proosha, and his hurlers — and the Prence of France, and his hurlers — and the King of Poosha, and his hurlers, all walking on the lake, and trying their bits of hurleys ; and of a sudden up rose O'Donoghue and his boys, with black oak hurleys, and every man of them had a white silk shirt tied about his middle with green, and the pipers playing O'Donoghue's whistle as grand as Gandsey ; and wasn't Jerry, by the same token, as proud as a red deer that he belonged to the kingdom of Kerry. Well, it was O'Donoghue against Eoosha, and Proosha, and Prance — and one Kerry boy to three furriners— but Kerry had the best of the day, until — but Jerry — for he was but soft, you understand — Jerry never could tell what turned the luck, but it was turned — and whir-r — the Irish were bet — just for a while — and the poor boy clapping his hands in a fair agony, he shouted out, ' Oh, O'Donoghue, fire ye going to live and stand that ? ' And as he spoke something rowled in the heavens above his head, and he was struclc down between the two eyes ; and when he did rise up, he rose up a blind boy upon his own mountain, and remained blind to the day of his death. Some said he was struck by lightning ; but, considering everything, it was more natural to suppose he was struck by O'Donoghue for not minding what he told him."

    And another lc";end still : —

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

27. Ossian's return from Tír na nÓg and conversion at Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Ossian, after dwelling in the land of eternal youth, returned to find Ireland transformed by Cromwell's passage, with old castles in ruins. He met a monk going home to holy Aghadoe, leapt from his enchanted horse to help lift a sack of corn, and instantly withered into an old man; the monk then converted him to Christianity on the spot.

    Read the passage

    says he. "Pooh!" says Ossian ; ''sure I haven't been here more than a year?" " "Well, go and see," says the king ; "mount one o' my white horses ; but mind, if ye get off his back, ye'll be ould, shrivelled, and withered," says he, "and not the fine bould gorsoon ye are now." So Ossian went; and he wondered greatly to see such a many ould castles in ruins — for ye see, yer honours, 'twas after Cromwell went through the country like a blast ; bad luck to his seed, breed, and generation ; Amin! "Well, Ossian meets an ould clargy, going home to holy Aghadoe, and he trying to lift a sack o' com on his back; and "help," says he, "for the sake o' the Virgin." " Faiks, I will, honest man," says Ossian; "for the sake of virgin or married woman, or widdy," says he ; for ye see Ossian was a hathen, and didn't know what the holy father meant by " the Virgin." So he leaped off his horse, and in a moment he was an ould, shrivelled, withered man, oulder looking a dale than the priest he was going to help wid the sack o' corn. So the blessed monk of Aghadoe knew that the spell of the enchantment was broke ; and he convarted Ossian — made a Christian of him on the spot : and by the same token, it was to a dale finer and

    better country than the Thierna na oge, that Ossian was carried that same night.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 93

28. Reginald's Tower history

    Reginald's Tower · man-made feature · Waterford · 1003–1819

    A singular round castle on the quay, Reginald's Tower, was erected by Reginald the Dane in 1003 and held by Strongbow in 1171. It later served as a mint in 1463 and was converted into a jail in 1819.

    Read the passage

    The city of Waterfbrd ranks among the oldest and most famous of the cities of Ireland. It was anciently called " Cuan-na-Grioth" — the Harbour of the Sun; and its existence is said to be dated so far back as a.d. 155. Certain it is, however, that it was a place of some note in the ninth century, when it was a colony of the Danes, who retained possession of it until the invasion of Ireland in 1171. A singular round castle still stands on the qnaj, and bears an inscription, signed by Sir John Newport, Bart., as mayor, which records that it was erected by Reginald the Dane, in the year 1003; was held as a fortress by Strongbow, in 1171; was used as a mint, by statute 3rd Edward IV. in 1463 ; and that in the year 1819 it was converted into a jail for refractoiy boys and sturdy beggars. From the Danes the city is said to have derived its name — AVaterford being considered a coiTuption of " Vader Fiord," the Ford of the Father, or the Great Haven, for it has received both

    DUSBRODY ABBZr.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 46

29. Sir Richard Courtenay's thousand ascents of Mangerton

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    Sir Richard Courtenay, the celebrated Killarney guide, was said to have climbed the steep and high mountain of Mangerton a thousand times. He once guided a Viceroy to the summit, after which he was ever known as 'Sir Richard.'

    Read the passage

    Our pleasantest memories of Killarney are associated with those of a guide — Sir Eichard Courtenayf — who now sleeps in the mid-aisle of Mucross. His picture, although that of a hero gone by, may be worth retaining, for it is a picture of a class in the old times ; his successors being far less " Irish," and much more refined. Note his peculiar hat — not quite a " caubeen," although the mountain blasts have materially changed its shape since it was "a bran-new baaver ;" his small keen grey eyes ; his loose good-natured mouth, that pours forth in abundance courteous, if not courtly phrases, and pronounces scraps of French with the true pronunciation of an actual native — of Kerry; for Sir Richard, having mixed in good society, " parley- voos " as well as bows with the grace of a travelled gentleman. His coat was certainly not made by a Stulz, nor his brogue by a Hoby ; but the frieze suits well with his healthy and sunburnt countenance, and the shoes are a fitting match for limbs that have borne him a thousand times up the steep and high mountain of Mangerton.

    Alas ! the Tourist who has experienced his courtesy will miss him now from his

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 59

30. Fethard and the Anglo-Norman invasion

    Fethard · town · Wexford

    The castle and village of Fethard, whose name is popularly derived from 'Fought hard', marks the site of the Irish's earliest resistance against Strongbow's Anglo-Norman invaders.

    Read the passage

    and where the first hostile Englishman trode upon Irish soil. Farther inland is the castle and village of Fethaed — a corruption of "Fought hard" — where the Irish made theii- earliest stand against the onward march of the Anglo-Xorman invaders,* under Strongbow. At the extremity of its broad bay is the ancient abbey of Tinteex ; and, at the termination of a narrow creek, are the seven castles of Clonraines. On the land opposite, the old church of Bannow crowns the summit of a small hill that looks down upon " the Irish Herculaneum " — a town buried long ago in the sand. Looking seaward again, tlie eye falls upon the two small islands called " the Keeroes" — then

    upon a narrow neck of land, that,

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 45

31. Derrynane: O'Connell's home by the Atlantic

    Derrynane · street · Limerick

    Derrynane was the only real home of Daniel O'Connell, 'the Liberator,' where he hosted guests of every political persuasion. The demesne overlooks the Atlantic, and until near his death O'Connell had only a rugged old road to reach the house among the mountains.

    Read the passage

    From "West Cove, the Tourist will proceed to Derrtixaxe, en route to AVaterville, where he will rest awhile, for here there are two "hotels" — one of them fitted up entirely for his special accommodation. But Derrynane cannot be dismissed in a paragraph; it has, and will long have, a place in history. It was here " the Liberator " or " the Agitator " — call him Avhich you will — had his only real home ; here, where the waves of the Atlantic gave him health and strength, "the great advocate of Ireland " threw off the shackles of politics and party, and became the hospitable host, at whose board every comer, hostile or friendly, was a welcome guest. The Tourist, no matter what may be his creed, religious or political, who walks the paths of this demesne, listens to the wild rush of ocean against huge cliff's, visits the small ruin on a small island close by, or stands in the little bay, where the waters seem hushed as if listening to the fierce clamour of the waves outside — cannot do this without homage to the memory of one of the most remarkable men of any age or country. A shame it will be to Ireland if this " bit of land" be suffered to pass away from his descendants. The family reside at Derrynane ; and there will be no difficulty, we believe, in the way of any stranger visiting the place.

    The road that passes above the dell in which lies Derrynane House, is now one of the best roads in Ireland ; but the Tourist will see "the old road," and wonder how it was ever possible for horse or carriage to ascend or descend the hills and the valleys over which it passes : yet, until within a few years of his death, 0' Council had no other way to his home by the ocean among the mountains.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 102

    As the companion tells it

    Along here, you are coming into Derrynane, and it cannot be dismissed in a paragraph. This place has, and will long have, a place in history. It was here the Liberator, or the Agitator, call him which you will, had his only real home. The waves of the Atlantic gave him health and strength, and the great advocate of Ireland threw off the shackles of politics and party, and became the hospitable host, at whose board every comer, hostile or friendly, was a welcome guest. No matter what your creed, religious or political, if you walk the paths of this demesne, listen to the wild rush of ocean against huge cliffs, visit the small ruin on a small island close by, or stand in the little bay where the waters seem hushed as if listening to the fierce clamour of the waves outside, you cannot do this without homage to the memory of one of the most remarkable men of any age or country. It would be a shame to Ireland if this bit of land were suffered to pass away from his descendants. The family still reside at Derrynane, and there is no difficulty in the way of any stranger visiting the place. The road that passes above the dell in which Derrynane House lies is now one of the best roads in Ireland. But you will see the old road, and wonder how it was ever possible for horse or carriage to ascend or descend the hills and the valleys over which it passes. Until within a few years of his death, O'Connell had no other way to his home by the ocean among the mountains.

32. Eagle's Nest cliff and O'Sullivan legend

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    A cliff five hundred feet above the Glengarriff valley where eagles have nested for centuries. A legend relates how the dispossessed O'Sullivan's wife and children were sheltered by his follower Gorrane M'Swiney, who ingeniously used the eagles' prey to feed the Princess of Bere and Bantry.

    Read the passage

    * The " Eagle's Nest — " the cliff where the lordly bird has for centuries made this dwelling — rises five hnndred feet above the valley. Csesar Otway relates a story connected with it — so beautifully, that we recommend it to all who love a well-told legend, merely offering a brief outline of what, entire, wotild here occupy too much space.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Glengarriff, the Eagle's Nest rises 500 feet above the valley, where eagles have nested for centuries. A legend tells how the dispossessed O'Sullivan's wife and children were sheltered here by his follower Gorrane M'Swiney, who used the eagles' own prey to feed the Princess of Bere and Bantry.

33. Giant's sword tradition at the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The Gap of Dunloe is a deep ravine of wild grandeur between the MacGillycuddy's Reeks and the Purple Mountain. Popular tradition holds that the gap was produced by a stroke of a giant's sword, which divided the mountains and left them apart forever.

    Read the passage

    The very entrance to The Gap is a sudden introduction to its marvels ;* the visitor is at once convinced tbat he is about to visit a scene rarely paralleled for wild grandeur and stern magnificence ; the singular character of the deep ravine would seem to confirm the popular tradition that it was produced by a stroke of the sword of one of the giants of old, which divided the mountains, and left them apart for ever. Anywhere, and under any circumstances, this rugged and gloomy pass would be a most striking object ; but its interest and importance are, no doubt, considerably enhanced by the position it occupies in the very centre of gentle and delicious beauty. The varied "greenery" of the pleasant glades that skirt the lakes, or line the banks of their tributary rivers, has hardly faded from the eye, before the bleak and barren rocks, of forms as varied and fantastic as they are numerous, are placed before it ; and the ear, in lieu of the mingled harmony of dancing leaves, and rippling waters, and song of birds, is compelled to listen only to the brawling and angry stream rushing onwards, wasting its strength in foam, but continually changing its form — here a creeping rivulet — there a broad lake — and there a fierce cataract. Along the banks of the river is a narrow, and, of course, circuitous path. On the right, the Reeks, with their grand-master, Carran Tuel, look down upon the dark glen : while on the left, Toomies and the Purple Mountain rise above it, and with a more gracious countenance ; for their sides are not so steep but that the goat finds sure footing and pleasant pasture ; and the cow — if it be Kerry born — may also wander and ruminate

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 78

34. Infant graveyards and Ogham stone on Valencia Island

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    Valencia Island contained four singular graveyards devoted exclusively to unbaptised infants, with graves formed of stones and covered by a single larger slab, many hundreds visible within traceable walls. One graveyard had an Ogham stone at its centre, and an adjacent hill contained a cromleach.

    Read the passage

    Uut the visit to Yalencia must not be too short to forbid a visit to the "westermost" part of the island — Bray Head. The Tourist will pass on his way two of those singular grave-yards peculiar to the south-west ; and of which we understand there are in Valencia no fewer than four — conclusive proofs that the island must have been thickly populated in remote ages. They are grave-yards devoted exclusively to infants, such as had not undergone the rite of baptism ; the graves being formed of stones, with stones at the head and foot, with a single larger slab as the covering ; they have continued to this day to keep the forms they received many centuries figo. They lie as close as they can be, and many hundreds may be counted in either of the enclosures — the walls around which can be distinctly traced. In the centre of one of these grave-yards is an Ogham stone, while a hill immediately adjacent contains a cromleach.

    The "walker" to Eray Head — although it is distant a few miles from Knight'stown — will receive ample recompense ; there is a good car-road nearly all the way. What a glorious view is obtained from the summit ! standing beside an old, but not an ancient, watch-tower, you gaze in all directions on objects singular, striking, or sublime. Far out in ocean, are the famous sea-rocks, the Skelligs. They rank among the most remarkable curiosities of the Atlantic.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

35. Jerry's supernatural ride to College Green, Dublin

    near College Green · street · Dublin

    In O'Donoghue's legend, a dark gentleman gives Jerry a letter for the Emperor of Prussia, telling him he will find him with the King of Russia and the Prince of France walking into the Parliament house in College Green, Dublin. A magical horse carries Jerry there by making the mountains his stepping-stones.

    Read the passage

    *' ' If you don't be oiF to Dublin this minute,' says the dark gentleman, ' and' give this letter to the Emperor of Proosha, who you'll meet wid the King of Roosha, and the Prence of Prance, all walking arm in arm into the Parliament house in College Green; if you don't fly this minute, and give it to the Emperor of Proosha — the shortest of the three he'll be, with sandy whiskers, and a stoop in his neck ; for his crown ' — goes on the dark gentleman, with a bit of a wink — ' his crown is like many another crown in the world, more than he can convaynently carry ; give him the letter, and don't wait for an answer, and if you don't do it, I'll — ! ' and as he shook his fist in the poor boy's face, every single mountain, even the tlu'ee reeks that form the crest of the Macgillicuddy, trembled like young rushes. ' It's done, yer honour!' shouted Jerry, brave as a lion and bould as a ram, springing on the horse's back as a kid springs to its mother's side, and off wont the horse, making the mountains his stepping-stones, until he stopt in College Green, and then turning his head like a Christian to Jerry, he says, ' Get down, you fool, and don't be keeping me waiting, for the smoke of the city makes me sneeze.' So poor Jerry got down, and sees the King of Roosha, and the Emperor of Proosha, and the Prence of Prance, all walking into the Parliament house, and he up at once to the Emperor of Proosha, and making a bow, gave him the letter, and then mounted his horse that was trying to keep in the sneeze, and away they went, till he came to where he had left the dark gentleman, who was no other than O'Donoghue himself — and, ' Ye'r a nate boy,' says the chief to him, ' mighty nate, and if you want to see raal sport, come down to-moi'row morning to Castle Lough, and make this sign over yer eyes, and its there you'll see fun — only, if you dare to open yer lips it will be the worse for you.'

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about College Green, the old Parliament house stood. In the legend O'Donoghue's dark gentleman gave Jerry a letter for the Emperor of Prussia. He told Jerry he would find him with the King of Russia and the Prince of France, all walking arm in arm into the Parliament house. The Emperor would be the shortest of the three, with sandy whiskers and a stoop in his neck, because, the dark gentleman said with a wink, his crown was more than he could conveniently carry. Jerry was told to give the letter and not wait for an answer. When the dark gentleman shook his fist in Jerry's face, every mountain, even the three reeks that form the crest of the Macgillicuddy, trembled like young rushes. Jerry shouted that it was done and sprang on the horse's back. The horse made the mountains his stepping-stones until he stopped in College Green. Then he turned his head to Jerry and said, "Get down, you fool, and don't be keeping me waiting, for the smoke of the city makes me sneeze." Jerry got down and saw the King of Russia, the Emperor of Prussia, and the Prince of France all walking into the Parliament house. He went up to the Emperor, made a bow, and gave him the letter. Then he mounted his horse, who was trying to keep in the sneeze, and away they went until he came back to the dark gentleman, who was no other than O'Donoghue himself. O'Donoghue told him he was a neat boy, mighty neat, and if he wanted to see real sport to come down the next morning to Castle Lough and make a sign over his eyes, and he would see fun there, only if he dared to open his lips it would be the worse for him.

36. Kilmallock, the 'Baalbec of Ireland' and seat of the Desmonds

    Kilmallock · town · Limerick · 1783

    Kilmallock was the chief seat of the Desmonds and has been called the 'Baalbec of Ireland.' Now a mass of ruins with miserable hovels propped against stately mansion walls, it was styled 'the ancient and loyal borough' as recently as 1783, when it still sent two members to parliament.

    Read the passage

    The station next, on the Cork line, is Knocklong, and next, that of the ancient and venerable town of Kilmallock — the ruins of which are seen to the right. Kilmallock has been termed, not inaptly, the "Baalbec of Ireland." It was JJie chief seat of "the Desmonds." Their history is akin to romance. Throughout the south of Ireland, and in Limerick county more especially, it will be difficult to travel a dozen miles in any direction without encountering some object that tells of their former greatness.* Kilmallock is now a mass of ruins ; miserable hovels are propped up by the walls of stately mansions, and "the ancient and loyal borough" — for so it was styled so recently as 1783, when it retained the privilege of sending two members

    * The whole central district of Limerick is, indeed, studded with remains, religious and castellated, still emphatically speaking of tlie fonner power of the Geraldines— now ruined and decaj-ed. A chain of towers may be traced in continuous succession from the Shannon to Kilmallock, indicating the territorial supremacy of the Filzgeralds; whilst their numerous and elaborate ecclesiastical structures tell of the wealth, munificence, and taste of that noble race. Kilmallock, Askeaton, and Adare are objects of pilgrimage, to all who love tlie picturesque and relics of the magnificent.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 11

37. Ross Castle built by the O'Donoghues

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Ross Castle is a tall square embattled building on a limestone rock, with a spiral staircase of cut stone and machicolated defences, erected by one of the earlier chieftains of the O'Donoghues. It forms a conspicuous feature in the landscape from every part of the Lower Lake.

    Read the passage

    a graceful and carefully kept flower-garden, where seats are placed so as to command the more striking and picturesque views ; and in every part, Nature has been so judiciously trained and guided, that the whole scene is one of surpassing beauty. The castle is a fine ruin ; much less injured by time than the majority of its co-mates in Kerry county. It is a tall, square, embattled building, based upon a limestone rock, sustained at the land side by a plain massive buttress ; from the northeast and north-west angles project two machicolated defences. It contains a spiral staircase of cut stone. It was erected by one of the earlier chieftains of the Donoghues.* It forms a conspicuous feature in the landscape from every part of the Lower Lake. During the war, the outbuildings were fitted up as a barrack. j- The castle is famous in Irish history as being the last in Munster to hold out against the Parliamentary army. In 1652, Ludlow, the successor of Ireton, assisted by Sir Hardress Waller, laid siege to it. It was defended by Lord Muskcrry with a sufficiency of troops, and an ample supply of provisions ; yet the castle, so well prepared for defence, surrendered upon articles, without striking a vigorous blow. The circumstance is attributable to the terror that seized upon the garrison when they beheld war-ships floating on the lake, in fulfilment of an ancient prophecy, which foretold that the castle could be taken only when an event occurred almost as improbable as that " Birnam Wood" should

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 87

38. Baal fires on Midsummer Eve near Glengariff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    On the evening before Midsummer Day, 'bone-fires' or Baal fires were observed kindling on the most prominent headlands around Glengarriff bay, their lights brightly reflected in the water below. The custom recalls ancient pagan ritual.

    Read the passage

    drive through, the demesne is one of a peculiar kind ; for though art and cultivation have done a great deal, the wild, rugged, abrupt character of the glen is admirably retained. Patclies of rich brown bog produce the most luxuriant vegetation — marsh weeds of every hue flourish — rocks of various sizes form the bases of now sloping, now abrupt hills ; while above them are the mountains ; and above them again, canopied by the clear blue sky, the eagle floats calmly, now rising, now falling, and then soaring away, away, until he becomes to our pained and restricted vision a speck, an atom.* Sometimes the drive is arched over by trees ; then you cross a bridge feathered with ferns and wild heaths, beneath whose arches a bright glittering river steals along, as if half asleep ; then you turn away from the cultivation, and are by the borders of mimic morasses, with hoar mountains on the one side, and such peeps and glances of the bay on the other, that you are fairly bewildered ; then again you are plunged into thickets of stunted oak and birch — and sunbeams creep through the branches, and freckle the long dark grass ; and after thanking Heaven for the cool green shade, you open upon a bit of fresh prairie, watered by countless little shy, sly brooks, crawling listlessly from their " home in the mountains ; " while above them float an absolute host of sparkling insects. It was !5Iidsummer-day, and the previous evening we had watched for nearly two hours "the bone-fires," or, properly speaking, the Baal fires, kindling on the most prominent headlands, and brightly reflected in the glorious bay beneath.

    But to enjoy the adjacent scenery to perfection, the Tourist should ascend the " SrGAE Loaf " mountain. This will be hard labour — amply recompensed.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the evening before Midsummer Day, travellers watched for nearly two hours what they called the bone-fires, or, properly speaking, the Baal fires, kindling on the most prominent headlands and brightly reflected in the glorious bay beneath. The demesne keeps its wild, rugged, abrupt character even where art and cultivation have done their part. Rich brown bog produces the most luxuriant vegetation, marsh weeds of every hue flourish, and rocks of various sizes form the bases of hills that slope and rise abruptly, with mountains above them, and above them again, under clear blue sky, an eagle floating calmly, rising and falling, then soaring away until it becomes a speck. Sometimes the drive is arched over by trees. You cross a bridge feathered with ferns and wild heaths, beneath whose arches a bright glittering river steals along as if half asleep. Then you turn from cultivation to the borders of mimic morasses, with hoar mountains on one side and peeps and glances of the bay on the other. Then you are plunged into thickets of stunted oak and birch, where sunbeams creep through the branches and freckle the long dark grass. After thanking Heaven for the cool green shade, you open upon a bit of fresh prairie, watered by countless little shy, sly brooks crawling listlessly from their home in the mountains, while above them float a host of sparkling insects. It was Midsummer Day, and the previous evening they had watched the Baal fires on the headlands around the bay.

39. Cahir town and its Quaker flour-mills

    Caher · town · Tipperary

    Cahir town has a cheerful aspect and derives its prosperity principally from extensive flour-mills in the immediate neighbourhood, conducted almost exclusively by Quakers. The author notes that Quaker towns in the south of Ireland are distinguished for neatness, cleanliness, industry, and sobriety.

    Read the passage

    The town of Cahir has a remarkably cheerful aspect, and its prosperity is not alone upon the surface ; it is derived principally from the extensive flour- mills, actively and continually at work, in the immediate neighbourhood, and conducted almost exclusively by the " people called Quakers." There are, in several pa)-ts of the south of Ireland, towns universally known and distinguished as " Quaker Towns" — they are remarkable for neatness and cleanliness, for the industry and sobriety of the inhabitants, and an air of comfort and good order in their dwellings — so surely does a good example influence all within its reach. The railway bridge which here crosses the

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cahir, you will notice it has a cheerful look. The prosperity here is not just on the surface. It comes mainly from the extensive flour mills at work in the immediate neighbourhood, conducted almost exclusively by the people called Quakers. In several parts of the south of Ireland there are towns universally known as Quaker Towns. They are remarkable for neatness and cleanliness, for the industry and sobriety of the inhabitants, and for an air of comfort and good order in their dwellings. So surely does a good example influence all within its reach. A railway bridge crosses here, and the mills are actively and continually at work.

40. Catholic exclusion from Trinity College Dublin

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1825–1865

    The author notes that forty years before 1865 (c. 1825), Roman Catholics were barred from holding the position of 'Scholar' at Trinity College Dublin, along with being excluded from judgeships and other paths to advancement. This is cited as part of the broader systematic discrimination against Irish Catholics that has since been remedied.

    Read the passage

    " conquered " people ; forty years ago there was not a Roman Catholic member of any Corporate body in Ireland; a Eoman Catholic could not be a "Scholar" in Trinity College, a Judge, or a Queen's Counsel — or, in short, be found anywhere on the road to preferment : no Eoman Catholic could be a Member of Parliament — none a Lord of "the Treasury — none a Governor of a Colony. There are now five Irishmen on the English Bench, and one of them is a Eoman Catholic ; and of the twelve Irish Judges, eight are Eoman Catholics. The Englishman and Protestant enjoys no privilege, no advantage, from which the Legislature debars the Irishman and Eoman Catholic. Forty years ago, it was forbidden, under penalties, to ring a bell in any Eoman Catholic "Chapel" to call the people to prayer. "Middlemen" farmed more than half the lands of Ireland : devouring locusts they were ; generally a low class, insensible to any touch of humanity — greedy, remorseless — grinding the poor, and amassing wealth out of misery. The middleman is now hardly known in Ireland : that curse has been removed. The spii'it of the age — so resolute in advancing and extending freedom and equal rights — has marvellously changed for the better the character of Irish landlords. For one bad landlord now, there were ten thirty years ago. Hai'd and inconsiderate task-masters are still plenty enough ; but public opinion would consign to instant ignominy such merciless exterminators as "flourished" when the fathers of the present generation took land. The eternal truth that "property has its duties as well as its rights" is now universally admitted, and very generally forms the basis of new engagements. Thirty years ago, wages for labour were seldom beyond fivepence a day ; the peasant never eat meat, and rarely bread ; he raised his potatoes and lived — that was all. The Police were mockeries, notoriously inefficient — made up, chiefly, of rogues and spies ; it is now, perhaps, the best force in the world, not only for the detection of crime, but for its prevention. As one of them expressed himself to us, they "take off" the match before the shell explodes." For discipline, order, activity, and integrity they are unsurpassed. Thirty years ago, drunkenness was a distinction, and not, as it is now, a shame — to the higher, as well as to the lower classes, it was anything but dishonour; in truth, he was " an Irishman all in his glory" who was unable to walk home from a feast. Faction fights disgraced every ftte day. Hedge-schools were the only seminaries of education. There are now schools in every part of the Island, supported, as they ought to be, by annual national grants. In a word — forty, thirty, nay twenty, years ago, Ireland was indeed a wretched country — made wretched, and kept so, from a cruel and foolish policy that has long been bearing its natural frait.*

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dublin, this is the city where Trinity College once barred Roman Catholics from its highest rank. The book says that forty years before 1865, a Roman Catholic could not be a Scholar in Trinity College. The exclusion did not stop there. A Roman Catholic could not be a Judge, or a Queen's Counsel, or, in the author's words, be found anywhere on the road to preferment. No Roman Catholic could be a Member of Parliament, none a Lord of the Treasury, none a Governor of a Colony. There was not a Roman Catholic member of any Corporate body in Ireland. By the time the book was written, the author says the situation had changed. There were five Irishmen on the English Bench, and one of them was a Roman Catholic. Of the twelve Irish Judges, eight were Roman Catholics. The Englishman and Protestant, the author writes, enjoys no privilege, no advantage, from which the Legislature debars the Irishman and Roman Catholic. The same forty years saw other burdens. It was forbidden, under penalties, to ring a bell in any Roman Catholic chapel to call the people to prayer. Middlemen farmed more than half the lands of Ireland. The author calls them devouring locusts, a low class, greedy, remorseless, grinding the poor and amassing wealth out of misery. Wages for labour were seldom beyond fivepence a day. The peasant never ate meat, and rarely bread. Hedge-schools were the only seminaries of education. The author's judgement is plain. Forty, thirty, even twenty years ago, Ireland was a wretched country, made wretched and kept so by a cruel and foolish policy that had long been bearing its natural fruit.

41. Cromwell's Bridge at Glengariff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    A picturesque ruin of an old bridge near Glengariff, formerly on the high road to Berehaven. Tradition holds that Oliver Cromwell, passing through the glen to visit the O'Sullivans, ordered the inhabitants to build him a bridge or face punishment on his return.

    Read the passage

    The village of Glengariff" consists of but a few houses. The only " antiquity" in the immediate neighbourhood is the old bridge, now a picturesque ruin, which, in ancient times, was on the high road to Berehaven ; it is called " Cromwell's Bridge." History being silent as to the origin of the name, we must have recourse to tradition, ^'hen Oliver was passing through the glen to visit the O'Sullivans, he had so much trouble in getting across the narrow but rushing river, that he told the inhabitants if they did not build him a bridge by the time he returned, he would

    * The " Eagle's Nest — " the cliff where the lordly bird has for centuries made this dwelling — rises five hnndred feet above the valley. Csesar Otway relates a story connected with it — so beautifully, that we recommend it to all who love a well-told legend, merely offering a brief outline of what, entire, wotild here occupy too much space.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Glengarriff you will find the ruins of an old bridge on what was once the high road to Berehaven. It is called Cromwell's Bridge, though history is silent on why. Tradition says that when Oliver Cromwell was passing through the glen to visit the O'Sullivans, he had so much trouble crossing the narrow but rushing river that he told the inhabitants to build him a bridge by the time he returned, or else.

42. Glendalough guide George Winter fabricates legends overnight

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    George Winter, a guide at Glendalough, amused visitors by recounting legends of the area. When pressed about the authenticity of one tale, he admitted he made up as many legends overnight as would suffice for the quality tourists the next day.

    Read the passage

    * It is not to be questioned that they sometimes "malte" as well as "tell." Once at Glendalough, when George Win'ler was relalinp to us " a laagend,'' we said, " Now, AVinder, tell us trulj', is that a veritable legend ? " " Well," he reiilii'd, "I'll teU truth to your honors: it is not, for ye see I make as many laagends over night as will do for the quality next day."

    t Hy"what means he obtained his dignity we could never leani ; but the knight had once the honour of conducting a 'V'iciToy to the top of Mangerton, where the peer and the peasant being botli literally "in the clouds," the latter, at least, descoiided to mid-earth a much more important personage than he was when he commenced the ascent— and ever afterwards with plain Richard Cuurtenay it was

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 59

43. Shipwrecks at Tuskar Rock

    near Tuskar Rock · island or archipelago · Wexford

    Located past Carnsore Point, the Tuskar Rock was the site of many tragic shipwrecks. Maritime disasters here were often recorded with the melancholy postscript, 'All hands perished.'

    Read the passage

    the sound was, for a long period, one of fear. Farther west, again, and passing Carnsore Point, is the TusKAE rock, beside which many a gallant vessel went down, the calamity being briefly noticed Avith the melancholy postscript, "All hands perished." But Wexford county is now far less perilous than of yore ; for from the very spot — the Tower of Hook — on which we have placed the reader, we may count at least half a score of " lights ;" and wrecks are now comparatively rare upon this once merciless coast.

    The object that will next claim attention is Duncannon Fort, occupying a small promontory nearly midway in the harbour ; it is still a fortification, as it was so far back as the reign of Henry VI. : but is maintained more for show than defence.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 45

44. The Devil's Punch-Bowl on Mangerton Mountain

    Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

    A small lake sits among almost perpendicular rocks on Mangerton Mountain, with intensely cold water that never freezes in winter. No trout inhabit the lake, though they are plentiful in the outlet stream (dubbed the 'Styx') that feeds the Tore Waterfall.

    Read the passage

    A crowd soon gathered about us, men, women, girls, and boys, with vial-bottles of potheen and cans of goat-milk: each with a greeting — " Yer honour's welcome to Mangerton." About a score of them were in attendance as we reached a group of wretched hovels at the foot of the mountain ; and the crowd grew like a snow-ball as it moved onwards.* Take a portiait of one of them — a fine hale and healthy mountain maid ; as buoyant as the breeze, and as hardy as the heath that blossoms on its summit. The sure feet of our horses were soon tried ; the little rough-coated animals had to make their way over rocks, bogs, and huge stones, through rushing and brawling streams, and along the brinks of precipices — places where it would be very difficult for persons unaccustomed to mountain travelling to move along on foot. At length we reached "the Devil's Punch-bowl," a small lake in the midst of rocks almost perpendicular. Our rude sketch may convey some idea of its singular character. The water is intensely cold ; yet, in the

    severest winter it never freezes; trout are ■ €''' /-

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 74

45. The Outlaw's Bed on Phil-a-dhaoun in Glenflesk

    near Glenflesk · population centre · Kerry

    Labig-Owen, the Bed of Owen, is a flat hiding-place about twelve feet square in the side of Phil-a-dhaoun (the Demon's Cliff) in Glenflesk, accessible only by ladder and naturally defensible. Owen Mac Carthy, a daring outlaw of the noble Mac Carthy race and ally of the O'Donoghues of the Glens, used it as a stronghold, supplied with food by sympathetic peasantry.

    Read the passage

    Owen, the real hero of the Phil-a-dhaoun, was of the noble race of the ISIac Carthys, and, as in duty bound, an ally of the O'Donoghues of the Glens. He was a rover of the most daring character, a man of great personal strength and beauty, bold and brave, possessing the qualities which even now exercise an almost unbounded influence over the Irish peasant. It is said that one of his followers was so devoted to him, that he left kith and kin to companion his wanderings ; and when trouble {i.e. justice) was in pursuit of the mountaineer, and he found it necessary to retreat like the fox to his lair, or the eagle to his eyiy, when he made Phil-a-dhaoun his resting-place, and slept upon the heather-coverecl rock, his friend would sit at the entrance to the cave and watch his slumbers. With the assistance of this untiring comrade he kept possession of the heights, the peasantry supplying him with food, placing goat' -milk, oaten cakes, and whisky in the crevices of the rocks, or beneath the thick moss. Thus he subsisted for a long time ; but although a price was set upon his head, he became weary of restraint, and also thought that by retiring into the wilder ancl deeper glens of Iveleary he might withdraw suspicion from his favourite Phil-a-dhaoun. His follower resolved to maintain his post, so as to divert attention, and enable Owen to make good his retreat to the house of one Reardon, in the glens of Iveleary, who, while professing the greatest devotion to the outlaw, cherished a bitter hatred towards him. The determined bravery and great personal strength of Owen Mac Carthy prevented the false coward from resorting to open violence ; but he resolved to ensnare what he dared not combat : he placed the bed of the gigantic glensman over a trap-door, and when he slept secure in the hospitality of an Irish roof, Reardon and his accomplices lowered the bed, murdered their guest, and cut off his head. The disgrace of this cold-blooded and treacherous action clings to them still, for the Reardons of that district are still called Reardane na ceaji, meaning "Reardon of the head." Owen's faithful follower, who had remained at the Lahifi, when he heard of the murder flung himself off the ledge in a fit of despair, and was found dead among the rocks in the glen.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

46. Castle Connell village and Falls of Doonas

    Castleconnell · town · Limerick

    Castle Connell, a village about six miles from Limerick, is described as perhaps unrivalled in the kingdom for natural graces. Immediately below it are the Falls of Doonas, where the Shannon rushes over huge mountain-rocks with such frightful rapidity that deviation of a few inches means destruction.

    Read the passage

    "The spacious Shenan spreading like a sea," thus answers to the description of Spenser. For a long space its course is so gentle that ancient writers supposed its name to have been derived from " Seen-awn," the slow river; and for many miles, between O'Brien's Bridge and Limerick, it rolls so rapidly along as almost to be characterised as a scries of cataracts. At the Falls of Killaloe it descends twenty-one feet in a mile, and above 100 feet from Killaloe to Limerick; yet there is scarcely a single mill at work all that way. Its banks too are, nearly all along its course, of surpassing beauty. As it nears Limerick, the adjacent hills are crowned with villas ; and upon its sides are the ruins of many ancient castles. Castle Connell, a village about six miles from the city, is perhaps uurivalled in the kingdom for natural graces ; and immediately below it are the Falls of Doonas, where the river rushes over huge mountain-rocks, aflforditig a passage which the more daring only will make, for the current, narrowed to a boat's breadth, rushes along with such frightful rapidity that the deviation of a few inches would be inevitable destruction.* This, although the most remarkable of the falls, is succeeded by several 'others, between Castle Connell and Limerick — the whole scene, hovv^ever discouraging to the political economist, as presenting a picture of wasted strength, being delicious in the highest degree to the lover of natural beauty.

    The immediate environs of Limerick are not picturesque ; the city lies, as we have said, in a spacious plain, the greater portion of which is scarcely above the level of the water ; at short distances, however, there are some of the most interesting ruins in the kingdom, in the midst of scenery of surpassing loveliness. As we have said, there is a railway to Foynes, a port on the Shannon, whence there is a good road to Tarbert, and so on to Tialee.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Castleconnell, about six miles from Limerick, you are passing a village that was said to be perhaps unrivalled in the kingdom for natural graces. The Shannon here is a different creature from the slow river it is upstream, where ancient writers supposed its name came from Seen-awn, the slow river. Between O'Brien's Bridge and Limerick it rolls so rapidly along that it is almost a series of cataracts. At the Falls of Killaloe it descends 21 feet in a mile, and above 100 feet from Killaloe to Limerick altogether, yet scarcely a single mill was at work all that way. Immediately below the village are the Falls of Doonas, the most remarkable of the falls. The river rushes over huge mountain-rocks, offering a passage which the more daring only will make. The current narrows to a boat's breadth and rushes along with what the writer calls such frightful rapidity that the deviation of a few inches would be inevitable destruction. Several more falls follow between here and Limerick. The whole scene, the writer says, is discouraging to the political economist as presenting a picture of wasted strength, but delicious in the highest degree to the lover of natural beauty. The banks of the Shannon are of surpassing beauty nearly all along its course, and as the river nears Limerick the adjacent hills are crowned with villas and the ruins of many ancient castles stand upon its sides.

47. Bandon's founding by Earl of Cork

    Bandon · town · Cork · 1614–1750

    Bandon, formerly called Brandon-bridge, was built by the first Earl of Cork on what was a waste of bog and wood inhabited by wood-kernes, rebels, thieves, and wolves. By 1632 no Catholic was permitted to live in the town, a prohibition that persisted in some form until at least 1750.

    Read the passage

    The woods have, however, long since fallen under the axe of the woodman. The town was formerly called Brandon-bridge, and was built by the first Earl of Cork, who in a letter to Mr. Secretary Cook, dated April 13, 1632, describes "the place in which it is situated" as "upon a great district of the country, that was until lately a mere waste of bog and wood, serving for a retreat and harbour to wood-kernes, rebels, thieves, and wolves." His lordship adds, as the strong claim of Bandon to royal favour and protection, that "no Popish recusant, or un- 1 |1 conforming novelist, is admitted to live in all the town;"f and Smith, so

    late as 1750, states, that " in the town there is not a Popish inhabitant, nor will the townsmen suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place, that being the music formerly used by the Irish in their wars." The old and illiberal system has long since been exploded.; the bag-pipes are now heard as frequently in Bandon as elsewhere ; and among its dealers and chapmen are numerous descendants of the Irish Mac Sweeneys and O'Sullivans, and the Anglo-Irish Coppingers and Fitzgeralds. The town is of considerable size, populous and flourishing, being the great thoroughfare into Carbery. It belongs partly to the Duke of Devonshire, and partly to the Earl of Bandon, whose beautiful seat, Castle Bernard, is in its immediate neighbourhood.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 20

48. Ireton's siege of Limerick, 1651

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1651

    In 1651, Ireton besieged Limerick, sitting before the city for six months before dying of plague beneath its walls. The city's natural strength and fortifications were notable features of the siege.

    Read the passage

    The city is, indeed, very famous in history. Before it, in 1651, Ireton " sate down;" there he continued to "sit" for six months; and underneath its walls the fierce republican died of plague. Greater celebrity and higher honour were, however, obtained by Limerick in 1690. Early in August, William summoned it to surrender : the French general, Boileau, who commanded the garrison — "rather for the king of France than the king of England" — returned for answer that "he was surprised at the summons, and thought the best way to gain the good opinion of the Prince of Orange was to defend the place for his master King James." The siege was at once commenced. It was raised on the 30th of August. But in the autumn of 1691 it endured a second, which occupied about six months, when the garrison wearied of a struggle from which they could derive nothing but glory ; on the 23rd of September a cessation of hostilities took place ; an amicable intercourse was opened between the two armies ; and articles of capitulation were, after a few brief delays, agreed upon. The treaty was signed on the 3rd of October, 1691 ; it consisted of two parts, civil and military. It is said to have been signed by the several contracting parties on a large stone, near to Thomond Bridge, on the county of Clare side of the river. The stone remains in the position it occupied at the period, and is an object of curiosity to strangers, as well as of interest to the citizens of Limerick. AYe therefore thought it desirable to procure a drawing of the relic, which retains its name of " the Treaty Stone." tradition, it is not unlikely to be true.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Limerick stands before you, a city famous in its history. In 1651, Ireton sat down before it. He continued to sit there for six months, and underneath its walls the fierce republican died of plague. Greater celebrity and higher honour came to Limerick in 1690. Early in August, William summoned it to surrender. The French general Boileau, who commanded the garrison, rather for the king of France than the king of England, returned for answer that he was surprised at the summons, and thought the best way to gain the good opinion of the Prince of Orange was to defend the place for his master King James. The siege was at once commenced. It was raised on the 30th of August. But in the autumn of 1691 the city endured a second siege, which occupied about six months, when the garrison wearied of a struggle from which they could derive nothing but glory. On the 23rd of September a cessation of hostilities took place. An amicable intercourse was opened between the two armies, and articles of capitulation were, after a few brief delays, agreed upon. The treaty was signed on the 3rd of October, 1691. It consisted of two parts, civil and military. It is said to have been signed by the several contracting parties on a large stone, near to Thomond Bridge, on the county of Clare side of the river. The stone remains in the position it occupied then, an object of curiosity to strangers and of interest to the citizens of Limerick. It retains its name of the Treaty Stone.

49. King of Irish pipers buried at Muckross Abbey

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The celebrated piper Gan, described as the king of Irish pipers and the equal of the best of the old race, is buried in the mid aisle of Mucross (Muckross) Abbey. He was known for his intelligence, native humour, and gentlemanly manners acquired through long association with the high-born.

    Read the passage

    The king of Irish pipers — one who was worthy of his throne, and was the equal of the best of the old race — Gan'dsjkt — is gone : he sleeps calmly in the mid aisle of Mucross, and his spirit, no doubt, roams among the pleasant places he knew and loved so well. He was full of intelligence, point, and native humour ; but his humour was never coarse, and he had been so' much among the high-born and the high-bred as to have caught much of the manner that proclaims the gentleman.

    The Tourist cannot now hear this admirable player and excellent old man, whose mantle has not descended xipon any of his successors in the art. A reasonably good substitute, however, may be found in the piper, Daniel O'Leary. Tou will, perhaps, hear him when you visit beautiful Glena ; for he is fond of tuning his pipes among its sweet woods of arbutus, albeit he is " dark." He will convince the most sceptical as to the rare powers of the Irish pipes, when in hands able to sustain their longestablished repute.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 76

50. Waterford's great quay and Suir bridge

    Waterford · city · Waterford

    Waterford's quay is described as unrivalled in Ireland and perhaps England, extending a mile in a continuous line. At its western extremity a wooden bridge 832 feet long and forty feet broad connects the city with county Kilkenny across the Suir, supported on stone abutments and forty sets of oak piers.

    Read the passage

    Wateefoed Haebotje is exceedingly beautiful ; not so richly planted or ornamented by villas as that of Cork, yet scarcely inferior to it in the grace of its foreground, and the grandeur of the mountains that look down upon it. But Waterford has one great advantage over its neighbour — the river Suir is navigable for very large ships ; having sufficient depth of water to allow vessels of from 800 to 1,000 tons burden to discharge their cargoes at the quay. The Malcolmsons, famous merchants of the city, have indeed built there vessels of larg-e size, which trade to all parts of the world ; and their steam-boats, built also in Waterford, are among the largest and best of the trading ships of the kingdom. The quay is um^ivalled in Ireland, and, perhaps, in England. It is a mile in length, and in a continuous line. At its western extremity, connecting the city with the county of Kilkenny, is a wooden bridge across the Suir ; it is 832 feet in length and forty in breadth ; supported on stone abutments and forty sets of piers of oak.

    * The South Wales Eailway— which joins the Great Western at Gloucester— conveys passengers to Milford Haven through a very delightful and higlily picturesque district. It leads also to the beautiful sea-bathing place, Tenby, -where there are attiactions as large and as numerous as can be found in any of the sea-side towns of the kingdom, frequently passing through delicious sceneiy— especially the Vale of Neath and Chepstow on the Wye, and for a very long distance by the side of "rapid Severn."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 43

51. Ancient Romanesque church ruins on Priest's Leap road

    Priest's Leap · pass · Kerry

    Nearly midway along the mountain road stand the ruins of a small ancient church of Romanesque style, dating from between the fifth and eleventh centuries. Only portions of the walls remain, built of large Cyclopean stones. Local tradition holds it is 'one of the first churches called at Rome.'

    Read the passage

    Nearly midway in the course of the mountain road stand the ruins of one of those small, ancient -, churches, whose era, from their style — the Romanesque — must be placed between the fifth and eleventh centuries. A portion of the walls only remains. The stones are large and Cyclopean, curiously jointed, and well-fashioned. We were told that it is " one of the first churches called at Rome " — a traditional record of its high antiquity. Outside the burial- ground is a curiosity ; — a natural rock of a tabular form with five basinlike hollows on the surface, of four or five inches in depth, and about a foot in diameter. These are filled with water, and in each is a stone of a long oval form fitting the space fully.

    Language utterly fails to convey even a limited idea of the exceeding beauty of

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 34

52. Bianconi's first car: Clonmel to Cahir, 1815

    Clonmel · town · Tipperary · 1815

    Charles Bianconi, a native of Milan, ran his first horse-drawn car from Clonmel to Cahir on 6 July 1815. The venture was initially discouraging, with weeks passing without a passenger, but perseverance led to a vast transport network across Ireland.

    Read the passage

    all respects, very comfortable and convenient vehicles. It would be difficult for a stranger to conceive the immense influence which this establishment has had upon the character and condition of the country ; its introduction, indeed, has been only second to that of steam in promoting the improvement of Ii-eland, by facilitating intercourse between remote districts, and enabling the farmer to transact his own business at a small expense and with little sacrifice of time.* Mr. Bianconi, a native of Milan, ran his first car— from Clonmel to Cahir — on the 6th of July, 1815. The experiment was at the commencement very discouraging : he was frequently for whole weeks ^rtdthout a passenger. But his energy and perseverance ultimately triumphed, and he has succeeded in obtaining a large fortune, while conferring incalculable benefit on the community ; having preserved an irreproachable character, and gained the respect of all classes. f

    * It woxild be impossible to exafrgerate the importance of opening roads through the less frequented districts of Ireland. The necessit)' which formerly existed for keeping a large armed force there has had, at least, this one good effect : " military roads " are to be found in all quarters. One of the wildest mountain-tracts of the county of Cork was, a few }-cars ago, dangerous for travellers at all seasons, and a source of considerable annoyance to the Government. The question was asked, " What was to be done?" A shrewd adviser answered, "Make a road through it." The advice was taken, andtlie Bograh mountains are now peaceable and prosperous.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 24

53. Legend of Showery Jack at Muckross

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    A poor man buried long ago at Muckross was known locally as 'Showery Jack' because whenever a shower came he would rush out to see where the rainbow rested, hoping to locate a hidden gold mine. This became a local tradition about the Killarney landscape.

    Read the passage

    " Yes, my lady, that would be money-luck ; and I often prayed I might catch the rainbow at it. And a poor fellow, laid long ago in holy Mucross, was, I heard tell, known by the name of ' Showery Jack ;' for the minute a shower came, he was off to see where the rainbow rested. It's fine exercise he had, I'm thinking, during his lifetime, dancing after the Killarney showers!"

    "But," we persisted, "we do not see the luck you talked of that is to come to us from only seeing the foot of the rainbow among those royal ferns."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall

54. Round tower destroyed during Marlborough's siege of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    A round tower formerly stood in the churchyard of St. Finn Bar's Cathedral in Cork. It was considerably injured by fire from the fort on Barrack Hill when the Duke of Marlborough stormed Cork, after which the venerable remain was taken down and no trace of it exists.

    Read the passage

    Antiquities are rare ; the cathedral, dedicated to St. Finn Bar, is built on the site of the early church, a few of the remains of which have been introduced into the modern structure. The tower of the steeple is comparatively ancient. The pointed doorway, recessed and richly moidded, is shown in the annexed cut. A round tower formerly stood in the churchyard ; but having been considerably injured by the fire from the fort on Barrack Hill when ihe great Marlborough stormed Cork, this venerable remain was taken down, and no trace of it at present exists.* Institutions, charitable, scientific, and literary, abound in Cork; -it has been celebrated more than any other city of Ireland for the production and fosterage of genius, and is the birthplace of many persons who have attained eminence in literature, science, and the arts.

    The jails of Cork — the "city" and "county" — are models of good management, cleanliness, and order ; and the Lunatic Asylum is among the best conducted institutions of the kingdom. The hotels are excellent ; f and the city contains many fine buildings ; the most recently erected, the College, the Athena3um, and some others, being now its chief architectural ornaments.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, there is one lost thing worth knowing about. The cathedral here is dedicated to St. Finn Bar, built on the site of the early church. A few remains of that old church were worked into the modern structure. The steeple tower is comparatively ancient, with a pointed doorway, recessed and richly moulded. But what is gone is the round tower that once stood in the churchyard. When the great Marlborough stormed Cork, fire from the fort on Barrack Hill considerably injured it. After that, this venerable remain was taken down, and no trace of it exists today. The book calls it a venerable remain, and that is all that is left of it, the phrase itself. Cork has been celebrated more than any other city of Ireland for the production and fosterage of genius, the birthplace of many who attained eminence in literature, science, and the arts. But the round tower is simply gone, destroyed in war and then cleared away.

55. St. Bridget's nunnery and inextinguishable fire at Kildare

    Kildare · town · Kildare · 484

    St. Bridget established a nunnery at Kildare in 484, and her nuns were celebrated as guardians of an inextinguishable fire that burned continuously from St. Bridget's time. According to Giraldus Cambrensis, the fire remained unextinguished through many centuries despite vast quantities of wood consumed, yet the ashes never increased.

    Read the passage

    cathedi'al retaining marks of its original beauty, extent, and magnificence ; and the "round-tower," one of the "tallest" in the kingdom, still attracting the attention of the curious, and the veneration of the antiquary. The bishopric of Kildare is said to have been founded by St. Conloeth, about the middle of the fifth century. The saint, however, was assisted in his labours by the famous St. Bridget, who established a nunnery here, a.d. 484. Her nuns were long celebrated as the guardians of an " inextinguishable fire " —

    " Tlie bright lamp that shone in Kildare's holy fane, And burn'd through long ages of darkness and storm," —

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Kildare now. The cathedral here retains marks of its original beauty and magnificence, and the round tower, one of the tallest in the kingdom, still draws the curious. Saint Conloeth founded the bishopric about the middle of the fifth century. Saint Bridget established a nunnery here in 484, working alongside him. Her nuns were long celebrated as guardians of an inextinguishable fire.

56. John Drake, pilgrim resident of Muckross Abbey

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1765–1775

    A recess in Mucross Abbey is pointed out as the bed of John Drake, a pilgrim who about a century ago took up his abode in the Abbey and remained its inmate for several years. His singular choice of residence gave rise to abundant marvellous stories among the local guides and boatmen.

    Read the passage

    into,_to act upon the advice of St. Paul, "And be given to hospitality." This recess is pointed out as the bed of John Drake — a pilgrim who about a century ago took up his abode in the Abbey, and continued its inmate during a period of several years.

    1*1 Tl^® descendant and reiiresentative of this ancient fumily is still happily "to the fore " a prosperous and accompiisUed gentleman ; whose tide, " The O'Donoghue," ia among the most honourable titles of the kingdom.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 68

57. Paddy Blake echo under Ross Castle

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    Just beneath Ross Castle lies the famous echo known as "Paddy Blake," which answers the question "How d'ye do, Paddy Blake?" with "Pretty well, I thank ye." At certain times it is the clearest of all the lake echoes.

    Read the passage

    t It is just under Ross Castle that " Paddj' Blake '' must be talked to : Paddy Blake, the famous Echo, that, when you ask him, " How d'ye do, Paddy Blake ?" makes instant answer, " Pretty well', I thank ye." At certain times it is the clearest of all the lake echoes.

    1. Brown or Rabbit Island.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 86

58. Hook Tower lighthouse on Hook peninsula

    near Hook Head · promontory · Wexford

    The famous tower of Hook stands at the extremity of the peninsula dividing Waterford harbour from Bannow Bay. Converted into a lighthouse, it occupies a high point of land above the ocean and offers a magnificent view of the coast with its creeks, bays, barrier rocks, and small islands.

    Read the passage

    On entering, the eye will be at once directed to the famous tower of Hook:, standing at the extremity of the peninsula which divides the harbour from the Bay OF Baxnow ; it has been converted into a lighthouse, and occupies a point of land high above the ocean ; one of the many marks to mariners with which Wexford county abounds. From its summit there is a magnificent view of the coast, with its numerous creeks and bays, and miniature harbours ; its bold barrier of rocks, and the small islands that dot the surface of the ocean. First in interest and

    56

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 44

59. Valencia Island slate quarries and Atlantic Telegraph terminus

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 1858

    Valencia Island's slate quarries were renowned for the very large dimensions of their slabs, which were sawn and shaped on the island with demand exceeding supply. The island also served as the terminus of the Atlantic Telegraph Company's cable, which briefly transmitted messages from Valencia to Newfoundland in 1858 before the wire broke.

    Read the passage

    are, consequently, now in good hands ; the name of that gentleman gives sufficient guarantee that they are all worked to the best advantage. These quarries are chiefly renowned for the very large dimensions of the slabs; which are, consequently, of great value in the important works of Mr. Magnus and others. The blocks are sawn and shaped as well as raised in the island ; and we understand the demand far exceeds the supply.

    In the island, also, is the "Tenninus" of the cahle of the Atlantic Telegraph Company. It was worked for a short time in 1858, messages having been conveyed from Valencia to ^Newfoundland. In October of that year, however, the "wire" broke ; but there can be no doubt that ere long a complete restoration will be effected, and we shall know what takes place in America an hour after incidents have occurred ; Yalencia recovering the proud position it for a time occupied.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

60. Lord Bantry's cottage and the 1796 wreck-plank bridge

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork · 1796

    Lord Bantry's cottage sits sheltered on a little island in Glengarriff, reached by a foot-bridge said to be made from planks drifted ashore after the wrecks of 1796 in Bantry Bay. The grounds command panoramic views of mountain, rock, river, and ocean.

    Read the passage

    But one of the grandest views is from the height of the hill-road that leads to Killarney. Before we ascend it, however, we must visit Lord Bantry's pretty cottage. It is sheltered like a wren's nest in its little island. We cross a foot-bridge, made it is said, from the planks drifted on shore after the wrecks of 1796 in the Bay, and are in the grounds. Crossing another little bridge, we are invited to ascend a soft and

    * Of these islands there is only one of size — Gamisli Island, which contains tliirty-six acres. It is crowned by a Martello Tower. The other islands are, Brandy Island, Sliip Inland, Rougli Island, Bark Island, &c., &c.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Lord Bantry's cottage, sheltered like a wren's nest on its little island. You reach it by a foot-bridge said to be made from planks washed ashore after the wrecks of 1796 in Bantry Bay. The grounds look out over mountain, rock, river and ocean.