A week at Killarney : with descriptions of the routes thither from Dublin, Cork, &c.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Muckross Abbey cloister and ancient yew tree

   Muckross · townland · Kerry

   The cloister of Mucross Abbey is its best preserved portion, consisting of twenty-two arches—ten semicircular and twelve pointed. In the centre grows a magnificent yew-tree with a circumference of thirteen feet that covers the entire area like a roof, likely coeval with the Abbey itself.

   Read the passage

   The cloister, which consists of twenty-two arches, ten of them semicircular and twelve pointed, is the best preserved portion of the Abbey. In the centre grows a magnificent yew-tree, which covers, as a roof, the whole area ; its circumference is thirteen feet, and its height in proportion. It is more than probable that the tree is coeval with the Abbey ; that it was planted by the hands of the monk who built the sacred edifice centuries ago.

   Although for a very long period the monks must have lived and died in the abbey of Mucross, posterity has been puzzled to find out the places where they are interied. Time has mingled their remains with those of the tens of thousands of nameless men who have here found their homes ; but the peasantry still point out

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 68

2. Shannon's falls from Killaloe to Limerick

   Killaloe · town · Clare

   The Shannon descends twenty-one feet in a mile at the Falls of Killaloe and over 100 feet between Killaloe and Limerick, yet scarcely a single mill operates along the entire course. Spenser described the river as spreading like a sea, and ancient writers derived its name from 'Seen-awn,' meaning the slow river.

   Read the passage

   "The spacious Shenan spreading like a sea," thus answers to the description of Spenser. For a long space its course is so gentle that ancient writers supposed its name to have been derived from " Seen-awn," the slow river; and for many miles, between O'Brien's Bridge and Limerick, it rolls so rapidly along as almost to be characterised as a scries of cataracts. At the Falls of Killaloe it descends twenty-one feet in a mile, and above 100 feet from Killaloe to Limerick; yet there is scarcely a single mill at work all that way. Its banks too are, nearly all along its course, of surpassing beauty. As it nears Limerick, the adjacent hills are crowned with villas ; and upon its sides are the ruins of many ancient castles. Castle Connell, a village about six miles from the city, is perhaps uurivalled in the kingdom for natural graces ; and immediately below it are the Falls of Doonas, where the river rushes over huge mountain-rocks, aflforditig a passage which the more daring only will make, for the current, narrowed to a boat's breadth, rushes along with such frightful rapidity that the deviation of a few inches would be inevitable destruction.* This, although the most remarkable of the falls, is succeeded by several 'others, between Castle Connell and Limerick — the whole scene, hovv^ever discouraging to the political economist, as presenting a picture of wasted strength, being delicious in the highest degree to the lover of natural beauty.

   The immediate environs of Limerick are not picturesque ; the city lies, as we have said, in a spacious plain, the greater portion of which is scarcely above the level of the water ; at short distances, however, there are some of the most interesting ruins in the kingdom, in the midst of scenery of surpassing loveliness. As we have said, there is a railway to Foynes, a port on the Shannon, whence there is a good road to Tarbert, and so on to Tialee.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 42

3. Theobald Mathew and the Cork temperance movement

   Cork · city · Cork

   The Rev. Theobald Mathew commenced the temperance movement in Cork, from which it spread rapidly throughout Ireland. Millions received from him a pledge to abstain from all intoxicating drinks, and he is buried in the Cork cemetery he himself established.

   Read the passage

   t No writer concerning Cork can omit to mention with honour and homage the name of the Eev. Theobald Mathew, who now rests from his labours in this cemeterj'. In the city of Cork this truly great and good man commenced the temperance movement : it spread rapidly throughout Ireland ; millions received "from the hands of the estimable Roman Catholic clergyman a jiledge " to abstain from all intoxicating drinks, and to discountenance the cause and practice of intemperance." The regeneration of the people thus effected can be understood and estimated only by those who knew Ireland and the Irish in "old times : " it is said, indeed, that the pledge has been frequently broken ; and that numbers have gone back to the evil habit of drinking. This may be — we believe is — the case: but liuntlreds of thousands have

   20

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 17

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Cork, you are in the city where the Reverend Theobald Mathew began the temperance movement. He rests now in the cemetery he himself established here. From Cork the movement spread rapidly throughout Ireland. Millions received from the hands of this estimable Catholic clergyman a pledge

4. Waterford City: Harbour of the Sun

   Waterford · city · Waterford · 155

   Waterford is one of Ireland's oldest and most famous cities, anciently called 'Cuan-na-Grioth' or the Harbour of the Sun. Its existence is said to date back to AD 155.

   Read the passage

   The city of Waterfbrd ranks among the oldest and most famous of the cities of Ireland. It was anciently called " Cuan-na-Grioth" — the Harbour of the Sun; and its existence is said to be dated so far back as a.d. 155. Certain it is, however, that it was a place of some note in the ninth century, when it was a colony of the Danes, who retained possession of it until the invasion of Ireland in 1171. A singular round castle still stands on the qnaj, and bears an inscription, signed by Sir John Newport, Bart., as mayor, which records that it was erected by Reginald the Dane, in the year 1003; was held as a fortress by Strongbow, in 1171; was used as a mint, by statute 3rd Edward IV. in 1463 ; and that in the year 1819 it was converted into a jail for refractoiy boys and sturdy beggars. From the Danes the city is said to have derived its name — AVaterford being considered a coiTuption of " Vader Fiord," the Ford of the Father, or the Great Haven, for it has received both

   DUSBRODY ABBZr.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 46

5. Blind piper Daniel O'Leary at Glena

   Glena · townland · Kerry

   Daniel O'Leary, a blind piper described as a reasonably good successor to the great Gan, frequents Glena and its arbutus woods. Visitors to the area may hear him tuning his pipes there.

   Read the passage

   The Tourist cannot now hear this admirable player and excellent old man, whose mantle has not descended xipon any of his successors in the art. A reasonably good substitute, however, may be found in the piper, Daniel O'Leary. Tou will, perhaps, hear him when you visit beautiful Glena ; for he is fond of tuning his pipes among its sweet woods of arbutus, albeit he is " dark." He will convince the most sceptical as to the rare powers of the Irish pipes, when in hands able to sustain their longestablished repute.

   In no district can acquaintance with Irish native melody be so profitably and pleasantly cultivated as at Killamey. Many will visit the Lakes whose knowledge of the national music of Ireland is limited to " Jullien's quadrilles," and a few melodies married to the immortal verse of Moore ; but the wild, unearthly character of some of the finest airs renders them unsuited to English words ; and they are even yet in a great degree secreted among the glens and fastnesses of the wildest parts of the country, where those who would fain gather them have never gone. Be it remembered, Irish music was never the oftspring of fashion or caprice ; it was literally the voice of the people. Whether excited by joy, or sorrow, or love, or injustice, their feelings found vent in music : their grief for the dead was relieved by a dirge ; they roused their troops by song, and off'ered their prayers in chorus and chant : their music was poetry, and their poetry music.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 76

6. Gougane Barra island: penitential cells and Father O'Mahony's tomb

   near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork · 1700

   The island in Gougane Barra is reached by a rude artificial causeway and bears the ruins of a chapel, appurtenant buildings, and a cloister with eight arched cells where penitents perform graduated prayers. Before beginning, five prayers must be said at the tomb of Father O'Mahony, a priest who ended a life of seclusion there around the beginning of the eighteenth century.

   Read the passage

   The greater portion of the island is covered by the ruins of a chapel with its appurtenant buildings, and a large court or cloister containing, eight arched cells. In these arched cells the penance is performed. The penitent proceeds to one, where he repeats five "aves" and five "paters," adding five prayers to each of the cells subsequently visited, making forty to be said at the eighth cell ; and the whole, with the addition of five more, are to be repeated at a chapel outside. First, however, five prayers must have been said at " the tomb of Father O'Mahony " — a priest who about the beginning of the last century closed a life of seclusion here. A spot better fitted for gloomy anchorite or stern ascetic, who desired perfect seclusion from

   " The cheerful haunt of men and herJs,"

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

7. Red deer of Torc and the stag hunt

   Torc · townland · Kerry

   Torc mountain abounds with red deer, heard belling in summer evenings on all sides of its lake. A famous stag hunt ended when the hounds tracked a majestic stag into the lake and up the mountain side, and a hundred voices proclaimed the monarch of Tore had fallen.

   Read the passage

   * Among the inducements to visit the Lakes, there is one we cannot omit to notice. For a description of it we must draw upon a friend, as we were not ourselves fortunate enough to witness it : we allude to one of Killamey's far-famed stag-hunts. Our visits to tlie Lakes were paid during months when the j'oung fawns were about, and when a "stag hunt" was impossible without doing much mischief. It is not generally known that the mountains abound with red deer. Tore alone contains man)-, and in the summer evenings they may be heard belling on all sides of its lake. The hounds are now kept by Mr. Herbert ; — a famous pack, well suited to the wildness of these glens. The place of meeting on this occasion was Derricunniliy, the beautiful cascade on tlie Upper Lake. The morning was .ine, and we procured one of the many fine boats which are to be "hired at Killarney. They were all in requisition : nothing could surpass the beauty of tlie scene as we threaded along the various windings between the Upper and Lower Lakes ; boats, lustily manned, filled with ladies, whose gay attire and cheerful faces caused even the mountains to sing with pleasure, — for a merrj' laugh from each boat as it passed the far-famed Eagle's Nest was returned tenfold by its echoes, which kept up a constant reply to the view-halloo of the boatmen, the bugle of the helmsman, and the fainter cadence of the female voice. At length we reached the Upper Lake, and were surprised at the number, beaut)', and appointments of the various boats ; — Lord Headley's with his crew, Mr. O'Connell's, O'SuUivan's, &c., &c., the flags bearing their respective mottoes, all eagerly awaiting the moment of action. At length Mr. Herbert arrived in a splendid cutter, manned by some old college friends, himself pulling stroke — his blue banner bearing the title of his bark, the " Colleen Dhas" (the beautiful mnid). The hounds were now laid on, and soon made the echoes ring with their music. We pulled along shore parallel with their cry ; at length we turned into a bay at the bottom of the lake, and then lay-to by the advice of our boatmen. We had scarcely reached the spot when the helmsman raised his hand in silence, and pointed towards the glens ; we saw a majestic stag bounding towards us. Within a few yards of our boat he dashed into the lake, and was quickly followed by the liounds, tracking him with fatal accuracy. 'I hey soon reached the opposite shore, and climbed tlie mountain side ; at length tlie bugle sounded, and a hundred voices proclaimed tliat the monarch of Tore had fallen. The novelty of the scene, the excitement of the peasantry, the beauty of the rowing — all contributed to render interesting this novel pastime.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

8. Daniel O'Connell's birthplace near Cahirciveen

   Cahersiveen · town · Kerry

   About a mile from Cahirciveen stands a ruined ivy-covered house in a wooded dell beside a river, identified as the birthplace of Daniel O'Connell. The remains of the room in which he was born are shown to visitors.

   Read the passage

   We continue our route, and at the end of a few miles come in. sight of Cahirciveen : this is the town of the district, commanding the whole trade of the country within a circuit of nearly forty miles, north, south, and east ; while to the west is the Isla^^d OF Valencia. Yet Cahirciveen is little better than it was thirty years ago — a dull town, that conveys no idea of either activity or prosperity, although its advantages are large and many. It has one object that may interest the Tourist. A mile or so distant is a ruined house, overgrown with ivy, pleasantly situate in a wooded dell beside a river. It is the birthplace of Daniel O'Connell ; and the remains of the room in which he was born are still shown to the curious or patriotic visitor."^'

   Before we reach Cahirciveen, proceeding from AVaterville, we turn off to the Ferry — less than a quarter of a mile in length — by which we cross to reach the renowned island of Valencia. Valencia is the property of Fitzgerald, the Knight of Kerry. He is an excellent, considerate, and enterprising landlord ; and if there be, here and there, in his "dominions" evidence of miseiy, or, at all events, of indifference to decency and comfort, the evil arises from circumstances he can, as yet, neither change nor control. The Knight resides at Glanleam, a charming wooded demesne at the north-east shore of the island, and finds ample occupation in striving to make contented, happy, and comparatively prosperous, the isolated, simple, and interesting people, numbering about two thousand, whom Providence has placed under his rule. It is not too much to say that the heroic qualities of this branch of the Geraldines have remained with their descendants.!

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

9. O'Donoghue Rath and subterranean chambers

   Killarney · town · Kerry

   An ancient house of the O'Donoghues near Killarney was abandoned as unlucky due to its proximity to a Rath. Explorers dug into the circular green mound, discovering a series of narrow, water-filled subterranean chambers of uncertain purpose.

   Read the passage

   It was rumoured that an ancient house of the O'Donoghues, in this vicinity, was abandoned soon after it was built, as "unlucky," in consequence of the builder's erecting it " convanient to a Rath." This was a clue: we followed it up, and, under the guardianship of " Sir Richard," proceeded to make our inquiries. The result was the proceeding about half a mile from this ruined house, with half a score of candles, and a couple of stout fellows with spades. "We found the Rath easily — a green mound on the summit of a small hill, perfectly circular, the circle formed Dy a hedge of mould ; of the ai'tificial character of which there could be no doubt. We saw what we supposed to be the entrance to the chambers underneath ; it was nearly in the middle of the enclosure, and open as they all are — to the east. With some difficulty we persuaded our workmen to aid us in the task of clearing away the stones that had been flung into this opening. After a couple of hours' hard labour, we had the satisfaction to find the passage clear, and wide enough to admit the body of a man.f As the service was one of some little danger, we drew lots with Sir Richard who should adventure first. The task fell to him. Lighting each a couple of candles, and bearing each a small stick, we entered as nearly together as we could. Having descended about ten yards — a gradual slope — there was a sort of landing, upon which we took rest : the passage was so narrow that we could not sit upright.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

10. Williamite siege of Limerick, 1690

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1690

    In August 1690, William summoned Limerick to surrender. The French general Boileau, commanding the garrison, refused on behalf of King James, and the siege was raised on the 30th of August.

    Read the passage

    The city is, indeed, very famous in history. Before it, in 1651, Ireton " sate down;" there he continued to "sit" for six months; and underneath its walls the fierce republican died of plague. Greater celebrity and higher honour were, however, obtained by Limerick in 1690. Early in August, William summoned it to surrender : the French general, Boileau, who commanded the garrison — "rather for the king of France than the king of England" — returned for answer that "he was surprised at the summons, and thought the best way to gain the good opinion of the Prince of Orange was to defend the place for his master King James." The siege was at once commenced. It was raised on the 30th of August. But in the autumn of 1691 it endured a second, which occupied about six months, when the garrison wearied of a struggle from which they could derive nothing but glory ; on the 23rd of September a cessation of hostilities took place ; an amicable intercourse was opened between the two armies ; and articles of capitulation were, after a few brief delays, agreed upon. The treaty was signed on the 3rd of October, 1691 ; it consisted of two parts, civil and military. It is said to have been signed by the several contracting parties on a large stone, near to Thomond Bridge, on the county of Clare side of the river. The stone remains in the position it occupied at the period, and is an object of curiosity to strangers, as well as of interest to the citizens of Limerick. AYe therefore thought it desirable to procure a drawing of the relic, which retains its name of " the Treaty Stone." tradition, it is not unlikely to be true.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Limerick now, a city famous in its history. In 1690, early in August, William summoned it to surrender. The French general Boileau commanded the garrison, and he answered that he was surprised at the summons, and thought the best way to gain the good opinion of the Prince of Orange was to defend the place for his master King James. The siege was at once commenced, and it was raised on the 30th of August. Before that, in 1651, Ireton had sat down before Limerick and stayed for six months, and underneath its walls the fierce republican died of plague. In the autumn of 1691 the city endured a second siege, which occupied about six months, when the garrison wearied of a struggle from which they could derive nothing but glory. On the 23rd of September a cessation of hostilities took place. An amicable intercourse was opened between the two armies, and articles of capitulation were agreed upon after a few brief delays. The treaty was signed on the 3rd of October, 1691, and it consisted of two parts, civil and military. It is said to have been signed by the contracting parties on a large stone near Thomond Bridge, on the county of Clare side of the river. The stone remains where it stood then, and keeps its name of the Treaty Stone.

11. Castle-Lough castle destroyed in 1652 wars

    Castle Lough · lake or lakes · Clare · 1652

    Castle-Lough, on Castle-Lough Bay in the Lower Lake, was once a castle destroyed so completely in the wars of 1652 that scarcely one stone remained upon another. Barely enough survives to mark its locality, though its position may have given it importance.

    Read the passage

    Tourist should first row among the small island-rocks in Casile-Lough Bat, the bay in which he will enter the boat, and be consigned to the care of four as civil and obliging " Kerry-boys" as ever told a legend — or believed one. All about him are odd-looking rocks and pretty islets ; some so bare that not a blade of gi^ass grows over them ; others so thick with foliage, that, literally, you see nothing but a clump of trees rising out of the water, and sometimes little more than the topmost branches of these very trees are visible. There are in this Castle-Lough Bay just "a baker's dozen," and very pretty they look ; but there is not one of them that will recompense a landing. At Castle-Lough, however, we must pause a moment. The castle perished in the wars of 1652. So completely was it destroyed, that scarcely one stone was left standing on another. Barely sufficient now remains to point out its locality. It may have been of importance, from its position, but never could have been of any extent. North of Castle-Lough Bay the Flesk runs into the lake, passing by the groiinds of Cahimane. It has voyaged a long way, to help the waters at Killarney.

    Those who are located at the Victoria will probably proceed to visit the island by a different course ; for the boat-house of the hotel lies about a mile almost due north of the Bay. There is, however, a road from the Victoria through the island. And from the Railway Hotel there 'is a road that leads direct to the castle, where boats are usually taken by those who are located at that hotel.^'

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 86

12. Kate Kearney's cottage at the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    Near the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe stands the cottage of the granddaughter of the famous Kate Kearney, who inspired Sydney Lady Morgan's song. The granddaughter sells cakes and goat's-milk to tourists and is described as a fine, substantial woman with a large family.

    Read the passage

    The grand-daughter— herself the mamma of a fine family, Irish in number and in growth — is not unworthy the high fame of lier grand-dame. She is wliat in Ireland is called "a "fine fla-hu-lagh woman," — meaning that she lias " blood and bone," but as for the "beauty " — we shall not be ungallant enougli to question her legitimate right. The Tourist will find cakes and goat's-milk at her collage, which neatness and order miglit very much improve. The cottage is close to the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe, so that he will be sure to see her: for he may be quite certain that she will be at hand with her — " offerings."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 78

13. O'Donoghue kings of Loch Lein in Annals of Inisfallen

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry · 1024–1238

    The Annals of Inisfallen record that of the Kings of Loch Lein from 1024 to 1238, nineteen out of twenty were slain—some in open fight, some by treachery, some after being driven from their territories. The last entry tells of Geffrey O'Donoghue burned in his house at the garden of the Greenford, betrayed by his own huntsman.

    Read the passage

    * Of course the several legends connected with the name of the O'Donoshne have their source in this, his castle of Ross. The peasantry will point out the window from which he leaped into the lake when he exchanrred his sovereignity on earth for that of the waters under it. He was endowed, they say, with the gift of transforming himself into any shape, and his wife requested him to exhibit some of his transformations before her. He warned her that if he did so, and she displayed any symptoms of fear, they would be separated for ever. She still persisted, in the spirit of female curiosity, and in perfect confidence that she could look on unmoved. On his assuming, however, some verj' terrible sha|ie, she shrieked with terror. He immediately sprang from the window into the lake below, and remains there an enchanted spirit ; his enchantment to continue until, by his brief annual ride, his silver shoes are worn out by the attrition of the surface of the water. Of the race of the O'Donoghues, "the Annals of Inisfallen " have furnished various jiarticulars, which give a pretty clear insight into the character of gone-by times, when "might made right," and illustrate the utter insecurity of life and property,that kept the "petty kings" always armed lestthe stronger should come and strip them. From the year 1024 to 1238, of the " Kings of Loclia Lein," nineteen out of twenty were " slain ;" some in open fight, some by treachery, and some having been previously driven out of their territories. The last item in the dismal account stands thus: — " Jeoffery O'l'onoghue, and Saova, daughter of Douchad Cairbreach O'Brien, his wife, as also his brother and his three sons, burned in his house at the garden of the Grcenford, by Finecn jVI'Donnell Gud, being betrayed by his own huntsman." Among the "fierce leaders of battles," nevertheless, there were a few distinguished as " gentle at arms;'' and some who " never forsook the muse." This list, however, which gives so dark a picture of the ape, refers to the O'Donoghue of the Glens, and not to the ancestors of the spirit chieftain. Yet the milder branch has aUogether withered and vanished; wliile of the "turbulent," "the ruthless,' the "proud and stern in battle," the representative still exists.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 88

14. Passage village succumbs to steam

    Passage East · townland · Waterford

    The village of Passage on the Waterford side of the harbour is now a ruinous place, having succumbed to steam and harbour improvements that removed the necessity for vessels to rest there.

    Read the passage

    On the "VVaterford side of the bay, the only other object that will attract notice is the village of Passage ; now a ruinous place, having succumbed to steam, and the several harbour improvements which prevent a necessity for vessels resting there.

    To the opposite — the northern — side of the harbour, the attention of the voyager will be directed : from its commencement in the county of Wexford to its continuation into the county of Kilkexxy.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 44

15. Aghadoe ruins: round tower, cathedral church, and round castle

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Aghadoe, about two miles from Killarney Town, contains the remnant of a round tower, the walls of a small cathedral church of two chapels of unequal antiquity, and the base of a round castle called 'the Pulpit' or 'the Bishop's Chair.' The round castle stands within a square bawn fortified by a foss and earthen ramparts, with walls seven feet thick and a height of about thirty feet.

    Read the passage

    once, then. "We shall first go a mile out of our way to visit Aghadoe ; it is not in the direct road to the Gap, but is about two miles from Killarney Town. If not to-day, some time or other Aghadoe should certainly be visited, for the ruins are very interesting as well as venerable. They consist of the remnant of a round tower, the walls of a small cathedral church, and the base of a round castle, called sometimes "the Pulpit" and sometimes "the Bishop's Chair." The church is alow, oblong building, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity.* The ornamented

    doorway, although much injured by time, is still graceful and beautiful. The graveyard is "neat and clean;" formerly it was in a disgi'aceful state, the relics of mortality being scattered everywhere about it ; they are shown in the engraving, but happily they will not now meet the eye of the visitor.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 77

16. Kilcrea Friary: MacCarthy burial place and surviving tower

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1494

    The friary at Kilcrea, erroneously called 'the abbey,' contains the remains of numerous MacCarthys including its founder, who died of battle wounds in 1494. The convent and church ruins retain considerable magnificence, with a tower still in good preservation and ancient elm-trees lining the approach.

    Read the passage

    In the friary, or, as it is usually but erroneously called, " the abbey," are interred the bodies of a host of the MacCarthys, and among them that of its founder, who died of wounds received in battle, in 1494. A. considerable poi'tion of the edifice still remains. It is divided into two principal parts — the convent and the church — and retains a character of considerable magnificence as well as of great extent. As in all the ancient churches, human bones are piled in every nook and cranny, thrust into corners, or gathered in heaps directly at the entrance — a sight far more revolting than affecting. The tower of the church is still in a good state of preservation, and may be ascended to the top with a little difficulty. Rows of ancient elm-trees lead to the venerable ruin.

    Between Kilcrea and Macroom there are several ruins of castles, once the strongholds of the Mac Sweeneys, powerful chieftains, although feudatories to the lords of Muskerry. On the high road, it is stated on the authority of Smith, there was a

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

17. Legend of the Clancarty plate in Blarney Lake

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    A fine expanse of water about a quarter mile from Blarney Castle is hallowed by legend: it is believed that the last Earl of Clancarty who inhabited the castle committed his plate to the deepest waters, and it will never be recovered until a MacCarthy is again Lord of Blarney. Enchanted cows are said to dispute the pasture on midsummer nights.

    Read the passage

    sions were confiscated. Tlie scenery that adjoins the castle is exceedingly beautiful. We visited "The sweet Rock-close" — it well deserves the epithet — during a sunny day in June ; and never can we forget the fragrant shade afforded by the luxuriant evergreens that seem rooted in the limestone rock. The little river Comane is guarded by a natural terrace, fringed by noble trees ; several of the spaces between are gi'ottos — natural also ; some with seats, where many a love-tale has been told, and will be, doubtless, as long as Cork lads and lasses indulge in pic-nic fetes, while the blackbird whistles, and the wood-pigeon coos in the twisted foliage above their heads : it is indeed a spot of exceeding wildness and singular beauty ; at some particular points you catch a glimpse of the castle, the river, and the mysterious entrance to the " Witches' Stairs." "We wandered from the shades of the Rock-close across the green pastures that lead to the lake — a fine expanse of water about a quarter of a mile from the castle. The scenery here is rather English than Irish, but every step is hallowed by a legend ; it is implicitly believed that the last Earl of Clancarty who inhabited the castle committed the keeping of his plate to the deepest waters, and that it will never be recovered until a Mac Carthy be again Lord of Blarney. Enchanted cows on midsummer nights dispute the pasture with those of the present possessor, and many an earthly bull has been worsted in the contest. As to fairies — their rings are upon the grass from early summer to the last week in harvest.

    The road to Blarney is singularly beautiful : it runs along the upper Lee, through Sunday's Well ; commanding charming views, near and distant. On a hill side, approaching Blarney, is the famous and prosperous establishment of Dr. Barter — the " cold water cure ;" the Turkish baths are under the same roof.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 19

18. Ballinlough fairy legend and rath

    Ballinlough · townland · Cork

    Ballinlough is associated with fairies who keep nightly guard, protecting the passage from an ancient rath to the lake's bottom. This bottom is said to be the location of the Thierna-na-oge, the land of perpetual youth.

    Read the passage

    The ocean with its tales of shipwrecks and piracies, the land with its legends and traditions, afford themes to fill folios of interest and excitement ; every castle (of which there remain the ruins of many) has its story of bold adventure. The lakes, too, are fertile of legends : for examples — that on the summit of Mount Gabriel, with its eternal serpent and depth that has never been fathomed ; Loughdrine, where on a certain day in eveiy year the islands used to dance merrily, change places, and shift from one side to the other from sunrise to sunset ; Ballinlough, where the fairies keep nightly guard, protecting the passage that leads from the ancient rath that borders it to the bottom, where flourishes the Thierna-na-oge — " the land of perpetual youth." The stranger will, in short, find, wherever he travels in this wild and comparatively primitive neighbourhood, a rich abundance to interest, excite, and amuse, and not a little to inform and instruct.

    And so, by this Coast Route, the Tourist arrives at Bantiy. A brief sojourn here will suffice : it will be recompensed principally by the views to be obtained from the summits of adjacent hills, or by a sail across the bay.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 22

19. Buttevant: ancient abbey town and Spenser country

    Buttevant · town · Cork

    Buttevant, anciently called Botham and Kilnemulagh by the Irish, was described by Borlace as 'an old nest of abbots, priests, and friars.' It dwindled into a mere village with the decay of its noble abbey, while its hills and valleys were made classic by Spenser's poetry.

    Read the passage

    The next station is Buttevant, described by Borlace as "an old nest of abbots, priests, and friars." Though formerly a place of note, it dwindled into a mere village with the decay of its noble abbey. Buttevant was anciently called Botham ; and by the Irish — a name which Spenser has recorded — Kilnemulagh.

    Buttevant and its neighbourhood — its hills, its valleys, and its rivers — have been rendered classic by the pen of the immortal poet ; for Spenser not only resided at Kilcoleman — the ruined walls of which still remain — but here he composed his " Faery Queen," making surrounding objects themes of his undying song.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 12

20. Gougane Barra: St. Fin Bar's hermitage and healing pilgrimage

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Gougane Barra, the source of the river Lee, is the famous hermitage of St. Fin Bar, who lived there before founding Cork cathedral. Long classed among the holiest places in Ireland, devotees assemble twice yearly to bathe sick children and ailing animals in its consecrated waters, hanging fragments of clothing and halters on nearby bushes as proof of cures.

    Read the passage

    The small island is nearly midway in the lake ; a rude artificial causeway leads into it from the mainland. This is the famous hermitage of St. Fin Bar, who is said to have lived here previous to his founding the cathedral of Cork. It is classed among the "holiest" places in Ireland, and has long been a favourite resort of devotees, in the confident expectation that its consecrated waters have power to heal

    GOUCrANE BAEHA.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

21. Great Skellig peaks, sea-fowl, and pilgrim traditions

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

    The Great Skellig consisted of two sugar-loaf peaks, the larger rising 710 feet above the ocean, nearly covered with sea-fowl. Keating attributed the abundance of birds to an attractive virtue in the soil, and a whimsical tradition held that every madman would instinctively make his way toward the rocks.

    Read the passage

    They were formerly celebrated as the resort of pilgrims ; and many a weary penance has been performed upon their naked and inhospitable crags. The great fSkellig consists of two peaks, which rise from the ocean so perpendicularly as closely to approximate to the shape of a sugar-loaf : the larger aising m thirty-four fathoms of the ocean to 710 feet above its level ; the occasional projections being clothed with grass of "a delicious verdure and remarkable sweetness." The island is, at all times, nearly covered with sea-fowl ; a circumstance for which Dr. Keating, the fanciful "historian" of Ireland, thus accounts: — "There is an attractive virtue in the soil, which draws down all the birds that attempt to fly over it, and obliges them to light upon the rock;" a notion of which the poet Moore has availed himself: —

    " Islets so freshly fair

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

22. Killarney guide culture: children instinctively become guides

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Killarney had an abundance of guides, so much so that every child seemed to have a natural instinct to become one from the time they could crawl. The guides were known for their humour, endurance, wit, and ability to enliven the dreariest roads with stories, some heard and some coined.

    Read the passage

    But our especial business, now, is with the Killarney guides, and truly theii- name is "Legion;" every child, boy or girl, from the time it is able to crawl over the door-step, seems to have a strong natural instinct to become a guide.

    Our pleasantest memories of Killarney are associated with those of a guide — Sir Eichard Courtenayf — who now sleeps in the mid-aisle of Mucross. His picture, although that of a hero gone by, may be worth retaining, for it is a picture of a class in the old times ; his successors being far less " Irish," and much more refined. Note his peculiar hat — not quite a " caubeen," although the mountain blasts have materially changed its shape since it was "a bran-new baaver ;" his small keen grey eyes ; his loose good-natured mouth, that pours forth in abundance courteous, if not courtly phrases, and pronounces scraps of French with the true pronunciation of an actual native — of Kerry; for Sir Richard, having mixed in good society, " parley- voos " as well as bows with the grace of a travelled gentleman. His coat was certainly not made by a Stulz, nor his brogue by a Hoby ; but the frieze suits well with his healthy and sunburnt countenance, and the shoes are a fitting match for limbs that have borne him a thousand times up the steep and high mountain of Mangerton.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 59

23. Kingstown renamed for George IV's 1821 departure

    near Dún Laoghaire · town · Dublin · 1821

    Kingstown, formerly called Dunleary, received its modern name in honour of George IV, who boarded ship there when leaving Ireland in 1821. An obelisk was erected on the spot where the king last stood, with an inscription commemorating the event.

    Read the passage

    Leaving to the left the pretty island of Dalket, we enter the channel, between two huge sand-banks called, from the perpetual roaring of the sea that rolls over them, " the Bulls," north and south. But the place of ordinary debai-kation is Kingstown, formerly Dunleary, which received its modern name in honour of His Majesty George the Fourth, who took ship-board here on leaving Ireland in 1821. To commemorate the event of the king's visit, an obelisk was erected on the spot where he last stood ; with an inscription setting forth the fact. The harbour of Kingstown is safe, commodious, and exceedingly picturesque. From the quay at which the passengers land, the railway carriages start, and convey passengers a distance of seven miles, in about twenty minutes, to the terminus, within a few hundred yards of the centre of the city ; leaving to the right a long and narrow range of stone-work, known as the South Wall, which runs for above three miles into the sea, and nearly midway in which is an apology for a battery, called " the Pigeon-house," — but keeping in sight all the way the opposite coast, speckled with villages, and beautifully varied by alternate hill and dale.

    The stranger cannot fail to receive a most agreeable impression of Dublin, no matter in what part of it, out of the mere suburbs, he chances to be set down ; for its principal streets and leading attractions lie within a comparatively narrow compass ; and his attention is sure to be fixed upon some object worthy of observation— to be succeeded, almost immediately, by some other of equal note. If he an-ive sea- ward he will have fully estimated the magnificence of the approach, which nature has formed, and which art has improved ; and there is scarcely one of the

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 5

24. Lough Allua: lost forests and the wild solitude of the Lee

    near Lough Allua · lake or lakes · Cork

    After Inchageela the river Lee widens into the picturesque Lough Allua, where the road winds for three miles along the northern margin between bare rocks and deep water. A century and a half earlier these hills and valleys were forested to the water's edge, where red deer roved; labourers still unearth huge buried trunks from mountain bogs testifying to the lost woods.

    Read the passage

    Soon after passing Inchageela, the Lee widens out into a sheet of water, forming the picturesque Lough Alltja. The road winds for about three miles along its northern margin ; the rocks on one side, the clear and deep water on the other — a more perfect solitude it is impossible to imagine. Not a tree is to be seen ; but the rocks, as if to remedy the defect, have assumed forms the most singular and fantastic ; and, every now and then, seem to stay the further progress of the wayfarer by pushing a monstrous base directly across his path. Yet a century and a half ago, these rocks and hills, as well as the valleys, were clothed with forests to the water's edge ; in their fastnesses, unfamiliar with the step of man, the red deer roved ; and often the labourer delves out, from a patch of mountain bog, some huge trunk that tells of the former occupiers of the soil — existing in decay many feet below the surface. Some three or four miles onwards, and we reach the first bridge that crosses the Lee — a bridge of many arches. We are now about two miles from the source of the noble river, in the singularly romantic lake of Gougane Barra. The car stops suddenly in the midst of I'emarkably savage scenery ; and while the horses rest, a guide is summoned, or rather is sure to be at hand, and the Tourist prepares for a walk across the hill to the Holy Lough.

    The approach to Gougane Bakra is now sufficiently easy ; although, a hundred years ago, a pilgrimage of two miles occupied two hours. Dr. Smith pathetically describes the toil; he calls it "the rudest highway that ever was passed; a wellspirited beast trembles at every step : some parts of the road lie shelving from one side to the other, which often trips up a horse ; other places are pointed rocks, standing like so many sugar-loaves, from one to three feet high, between which a horse must take time to place and fix his feet."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

25. Lough Hyne, O'Driscoll castle and children's graveyard

    near Lough Hyne · lake or lakes · Cork

    Near Skibbereen lies Lough Hyne, a salt-water lake with a long island containing ruins of one of the O'Driscolls' castles. A churchyard on its shore, formerly with a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget, was devoted exclusively to the interment of children. A ring-stone with inscrutable characters stands in the foreground.

    Read the passage

    and to one point in particular his attention should be directed — the glen called "the Leap," the ancient boundary which divided the civilised from the uncivilised, " Beyond the Leap, beyond the Law," being, even within our memory, an accepted proverb.* Not far from Skibbereen is a singular salt-water lake — Lough Hyne, or Ine (the Deep Lake). In the centre is a long island, upon which are the ruins of one of the castles of the O'Driscolls. It is surrounded by picturesque hills, some rocky and precipitous, others steep and woody, rising Irom the lake. Our sketch is from a churchyard, peculiar to Ireland, devoted exclusively to the interment of children,! and where there was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. In the foreground is one of the singular ring -stones, or pillar-stones, engraven with inscrutable characters. It is

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead along the lake is Lough Hyne, a salt-water lake not far from Skibbereen. A long island in the centre holds the ruins of one of the O'Driscolls' castles. The hills around it are rocky and woody, rising straight from the water. On the shore there was a churchyard given over entirely to the burial of children, where a chapel once stood dedicated to St. Bridget. A ring-stone stands there, engraved with characters no one can read.

26. Mangerton dethroned as Ireland's supposed highest mountain

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    Mangerton was long regarded as Ireland's highest mountain until surveys by Mr. Nimmo in the nineteenth century corrected this. Dr. Smith had described Mangerton as the highest, though admitting the Reeks "look more lofty."

    Read the passage

    If the ascent up Carran Tuel be a serious labour, neither is the journey to the summit of Mangerton to be thought of lightly ; although mighty efforts at mounting both may excite a smile in those who have climbed the "Monarch of Mountains." For a very long period, until within the present century, indeed, Mangerton had usurped the honour of ranking as the highest of the Irish mountains: so Dr. Smith describes it, although he admits that the Reeks " /oo/c more lofty." Since the inquiries of Mr. Nimmo, and the improvements in surveying, Mangerton has, however, been compelled to resign its thi'one, and "hide its diminished head." Still, to dwellers in the valley, and more especially those of the city, its height is sufficient to afPord a pretty correct idea of what a veritable mountain actually is. We commenced our

    '^'^ l^u

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 73

27. O'Donoghue's spectre explained as a lake mirage

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The legend of O'Donoghue, whose spectral horseman is said to appear on the lake at Killarney at a fixed hour and season, is explained as an optical mirage reflecting a rider on the opposite shore onto the water's surface. The author compares it to the Brocken Spectre and other recorded mirages, arguing the apparition terrifies the peasantry through natural atmospheric causes.

    Read the passage

    » This tradition, therefore, is founded upon natural causes, and the spectre of O'Donoghue is a real vision. Many such illusions are on record. The mirage of the sands of the East exliibits distorted images of real objects, so as to deceive all travellers. M. Monge, who accompanied the French army in Egypt, and Dr. Clarke, witnessed and have described those plienomena — lakes, trees, and houses in the midst of a naked desert; and so great was the optical deception, that they would not believe it such till they passed through the lovely spots, and found nothing but a few miserable Arab huts and stunted shrubs in a waste of arid land. Similar appearances are recorded by Scoresby and others as occurring in the Arctic seas: one of the ships seemed, as by enchantment, floating in the air; which Scoresby afterwards discovered to have been the rejection of his father's vessel which accompanied him in the atmosphere, though the real ship was at a disi ance far beyond that at which objects could be seen by direct vision.;; From a similar cause arise the " Fata Morgana," in the Straits of Messina, described by Swinbui'ne, and others. Beautiful landscapes, with men and cattle in motion, appear on the surface of the seas. It was found to be reHectious of objects on the distant opposite coast of Reggio. In certain states of the atmosphere, these spectra are lost as it were on the surface of the sea, and every sheet of water as it passes becomes a distinct mirror reflecting them. But perhaps the most striking of these appearances is the celebrated " Spectra of the Harlz Mountains,'' which kept the district in terror and alarm from time immemorial, till M. Haue, the French chemist, discovered the cause. He went for the express purpose of witnessing the phenomena ; and for thirty mornings climbed the Brocken Mountain, without being gratified. At length, early one morning, he observed on the ojjjiosite side of the hill the gigantic figure of a man turned towards him. The distinctness of the form left no doubt of the reality of the figure; while he contemplated the monster with wonder and awe, a sudden gust of wind nearly blew off his hat, and when he put up his liand to hold it on, he obsei-ved the giant do the same. He now found that it was notliing more tlian a dilated image of himself reflected on the surface of an opposite closed atmosphere. No doubt the legend of O'Donoghue took its rise from some similar optical deception. It is said to be seen at the same hour of the morning, and at the same time of the year, as that of the Brocken Spectre. Some horseman riding along the opposite shore of the lake is I'cflccted by the almosplioric mirror, and seems to continue his course along the surface of the water. Ujion tliis ]inn< iple it is easy to account for the appearances which from tuae to time terrify the peasantry —and the scene witnessed by lieynolds is to be thus explained.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 91

28. Pig-driver returns to O'Donoghue's castle at Killarney

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    In the pig legend, the cheated pig-driver returns to O'Donoghue's castle at Killarney to demand his money back. He knocks at the hall door with 'the Dane's hammer that hung there,' and the lady of the castle directs him upstairs to wake the sleeping prince.

    Read the passage

    "A green growing rush, rooted under the wathiu- — quite natural -like, waying, with its little tuft of brown bud at the top. — There war his beautiful pigs — his broad bacon turned into green rushes ! First of all, he set up an ullagawn that would shake the Reeks ; and then he turned back fairly and softly towards Killarney to get his money back from the O'Donoghue. When he reached the castle, he knocked at the hall door wid the Dane's hammer that hung there ; and_ out comes the lady. ' And what do ye want, my good man ? ' she says ; so he explained to her. ' Then,' she says, 'you must go up to the Prince's bedside and shake him up,' she says, ' for he is asleep ; and if you find that won't do, pull him by the foot.' He did as she bid him ; but son-a a wake he'd wake. So lifting up the golden quilt that covered the bed, he pulled his foot ; and if he did, as sure as Glena is darkening the wathur, foot, ankle, leg, and thigh came away in his hand. Oh ! how he blessed O'Donoghue and his pigs — the wrong way — as he stood holding the limb, and the Prince sleeping as sweet and as quiet as if the May breezes were playing round his head. So he tucks the leg under the tail of his coat : and though he was trembling from head to foot, he walks past the lady as howU as a ram, and says, ' Thank yer honor, — I've finished my business.' He flew ofi" like the wind, and the leg slipped from under his arm ; and as sure as it did, it took to running before him ! Whichever way he ran, it was before him. More than once he raised his hand to make the blessed sign, hut he had no jmwer. And sure his condition was not bettered when looking back, he saw O'Donoghue hot foot after him. 'Stop,' he cries, 'ye beggarly pig-driver. What ails ye, that ye can't stop when a gentleman tells ye? Give me my leg, he says; and I think it a very unmannerly thing of ye, and a proof of yer ill-breeding, to come to a gentleman's house, and to stale the leg off his body without his lave, and he asleep. Give me my beautiful leg,' says he, coming up to him. ' Plaze yer honorable honor's glory for ever ! ' says the fellow, stopping. ' Sure, it run away, sir— it's on before, sir.' ' Where?' thundered out the Prince; and every echo from the Eagle's Nest to the Gap of Dunloe shouted ' Where ? ' ' There,' answered the nagur. ' Oh ! oh ! ' — and the O'Donoghue laughed — the leg was in its own place. ' And there,' said the Prince, throwing a purse towards him. ' My pigs are at home, and there's yer money. I only wanted my turn out of the Saxon's goold.' "

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

29. Prince of Asculi burial at Dunquin ruined church

    near Dunquin · parish · Kerry · 1588

    The Spanish Prince of Asculi, who perished in the Armada wreck, is buried near the ruined church at Dunquin, and his burial-place is still pointed out to visitors.

    Read the passage

    If the visitor should have time to visit the Eagle Mountain and Blasket Islands, on Dunquin Promontoiy, he will be rewarded by seeing some very magnificent coast and rock scenery, and meeting on the islands a singular primitive race of people ; but this will occupy more time than most tourists have to spare. An additional historic interest is given to these islands from the circumstance that a portion of the Spanish Armada was wrecked among them, including an admiral's ship — " Our Lady of the Rosary^ Among those who perished was a Spanish Prince — the Prince of Asculi — whose burial-place is still shown, near the ruined church at Dunquin.

    Another of the " lions" of Dingle is Mount Brandon. It lies to the north, between St. Brandon's Bay and Smerwick Harbour. An energetic Tourist may compass visiting this the same day as Sybil-head ; but it will be a very hard day's work.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

30. The Tower of Hook and its lights

    near Hook Head · promontory · Wexford

    From the Tower of Hook, one can count at least half a score of lights that have made the Wexford coast far less perilous than in the past. Wrecks are now comparatively rare upon this once merciless coastline.

    Read the passage

    the sound was, for a long period, one of fear. Farther west, again, and passing Carnsore Point, is the TusKAE rock, beside which many a gallant vessel went down, the calamity being briefly noticed Avith the melancholy postscript, "All hands perished." But Wexford county is now far less perilous than of yore ; for from the very spot — the Tower of Hook — on which we have placed the reader, we may count at least half a score of " lights ;" and wrecks are now comparatively rare upon this once merciless coast.

    The object that will next claim attention is Duncannon Fort, occupying a small promontory nearly midway in the harbour ; it is still a fortification, as it was so far back as the reign of Henry VI. : but is maintained more for show than defence.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 45

31. St. Mary's Cathedral on O'Brien's palace site

    Limerick · city · Limerick

    St. Mary's Cathedral is a large, heavy-looking structure built on the site of the palace of O'Brien, king of Limerick. Its remarkably high tower affords a magnificent prospect of the surrounding neighbourhood.

    Read the passage

    The city of Limerick, situated in an extensive plain watered by the mighty Shannon, about sixty Irish miles from the sea, is divided, like all the towns of note in Ireland, into English town and Irish town ; but a third division, called Xewtown Pery, was added to it during the last century — the work being commenced in 1769, by the Right Hon. Edmond Sexton Pery. The English town stands on "the King's Island," an island formed by the Shannon, which divides, about half a mile above the city, into two streams ; the narrowest of which is named the Abbey lliver. There is also an extensive and populous suburb on the opposite side of the river, in the county of Clare. The more modern parts are remarkably handsome, the streets being wide and the houses evenly built : the ancient portions, on the contrary, are narrow and confined, and dirty to a proverb. Limerick may be classed among the best cities of Ireland ; and it is rapidly improving. The most remarkable of the ancient structures of Limeiick, with the exception of "King Jolui's Castle," is the cathedi-al, dedicated to " St. Mary;" a large and heavy-looking structure, built on the site of the palace of O'Brien, king of Limerick. Its tower is remarkably high ; and from the summit there is a magnificent prospect of the various objects of attraction in the immediate

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Limerick sits in an extensive plain watered by the Shannon, about sixty Irish miles from the sea. Like all the towns of note in Ireland, it is divided into English town and Irish town. A third division, called Newtown Pery, was added during the last century, the work commenced in 1769 by the Right Honourable Edmond Sexton Pery. The English town stands on the King's Island, an island formed by the Shannon, which divides about half a mile above the city into two streams, the narrowest called the Abbey River. The more modern parts are remarkably handsome, wide streets and evenly built houses. The ancient portions, on the contrary, are narrow and confined, and dirty to a proverb. The most remarkable of the ancient structures here, with the exception of King John's Castle, is St. Mary's Cathedral, a large and heavy-looking structure built on the site of the palace of O'Brien, king of Limerick. Its tower is remarkably high, and from the summit there is a magnificent prospect of the various objects of attraction in the immediate neighbourhood.

32. The Treaty Stone at Thomond Bridge

    Thomond Bridge · street · Limerick · 1691

    After the second siege of 1691, the Treaty of Limerick was signed on October 3rd on a large stone near Thomond Bridge on the Clare side of the Shannon. The stone remains in place and is known as the Treaty Stone.

    Read the passage

    The city is, indeed, very famous in history. Before it, in 1651, Ireton " sate down;" there he continued to "sit" for six months; and underneath its walls the fierce republican died of plague. Greater celebrity and higher honour were, however, obtained by Limerick in 1690. Early in August, William summoned it to surrender : the French general, Boileau, who commanded the garrison — "rather for the king of France than the king of England" — returned for answer that "he was surprised at the summons, and thought the best way to gain the good opinion of the Prince of Orange was to defend the place for his master King James." The siege was at once commenced. It was raised on the 30th of August. But in the autumn of 1691 it endured a second, which occupied about six months, when the garrison wearied of a struggle from which they could derive nothing but glory ; on the 23rd of September a cessation of hostilities took place ; an amicable intercourse was opened between the two armies ; and articles of capitulation were, after a few brief delays, agreed upon. The treaty was signed on the 3rd of October, 1691 ; it consisted of two parts, civil and military. It is said to have been signed by the several contracting parties on a large stone, near to Thomond Bridge, on the county of Clare side of the river. The stone remains in the position it occupied at the period, and is an object of curiosity to strangers, as well as of interest to the citizens of Limerick. AYe therefore thought it desirable to procure a drawing of the relic, which retains its name of " the Treaty Stone." tradition, it is not unlikely to be true.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Along here at Thomond Bridge, on the Clare side of the Shannon, stands the stone they call the Treaty Stone. Limerick earned its fame through sieges. In 1651, Ireton sat down before the city and stayed six months, and underneath its walls the fierce republican died of plague. Greater celebrity came in 1690. Early in August, William summoned the city to surrender. The French general Boileau commanded the garrison, and returned for answer that he was surprised at the summons, and thought the best way to gain the good opinion of the Prince of Orange was to defend the place for his master King James. The siege was raised on the 30th of August. But in the autumn of 1691 the city endured a second siege, which lasted about six months, until the garrison wearied of a struggle from which they could derive nothing but glory. On the 23rd of September a cessation of hostilities took place. An amicable intercourse was opened between the two armies, and articles of capitulation were agreed upon after a few brief delays. The treaty was signed on the 3rd of October, 1691, and consisted of two parts, civil and military. It is said to have been signed by the contracting parties on a large stone near Thomond Bridge, on the county of Clare side of the river. The stone remains in the position it occupied then, and keeps its name, the Treaty Stone.

33. Colonel Hall's son born at Ross Castle barracks, 1798

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1798

    Ross Castle served as a barracks where Colonel Hall was quartered with the staff of his regiment. In one of its rooms, a son was born to him in 1798.

    Read the passage

    t While a barrack Colonel Hall was quartered there with the staff of his regiment; and in one of the rooms a sou was born to him m 1798.

    come " to Dunsinane." Although it is very unlikely that Ludlow liad heard of this tradition, or would have heeded it if he had, it is certain that, having considered it wisest to attack the castle hy water, he had constructed boats for the purpose; "and," as he says, "when we had received our boats, each of which was capable of containing one hundred and twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about, in order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon the enemy, which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent the danger that threatened them." General Ludlow does not explain how the boats were conveyed into the lakes ; and so great must have been the difl&culty of transporting them from any distant part, covered as this district of Ireland then was with bog and forests, that the boat has been generally considered to have been nothing more than a raft. An accident enabled us to remove all doubts on the subject.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 88

34. Gougane Barra's sacred isle and the expelled serpent

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Gougane Barra, associated with St. Fin Bar, was believed to be protected from the monster eels said to infest many Irish lakes. A serpent once snatched a holy water vessel from a priest's hand on the blessed isle but was expelled and never returned.

    Read the passage

    The sacred character of Gougane Barra has, it is said, preserved it from the pest of so many Irish lakes — the monster worm or enchanted eel. We have heard stories of them in abundance ; and " have seen the man who had seen" the metamorphosed demon that infests the little lough on the top of Mount Gabriel — it is ' ' deeper than did ever plummet sound ;" yet not so deep but that it supplies a home to one of these " things horrible." Often, but always at night, the hideous head of the serpent is raised above the surface of the water; and if a cow be missing from some neighbouring herd, there is no difliculty in ascertaining its fate — it has been made "a toothful for the ould enemy." In ancient times, indeed, the blessed isle of St. Fin Bar was subjected to the visits of such an intruder ; who having been guilty of the imprudence and impudence of snatching, from the very hand of the officiating priest, the loneen — a vessel for holding holy water — as he was in the act of sprinkling with it a crowd of devotees, witnesses of the sacrilegious act, he was expelled the neighbourhood for his wickedness, and has never since ventured to leave his loathsome slime upon the green banks of the lake.

    The Tourist will greatly enjoy a visit to the Holy Lake, not only as introducing him to one of the strongholds of which superstition held possession for centuries ; but the stern and sterile grandeur of the place will astonish him, if perchance here his first acquaintance shall have been formed with the wild magnificence of Nature in Ireland. The scene is a fine subject for the poet ; and it has been happily treated by one who " died too soon," J. J. Callanan : —

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

35. Ballydehob copper mines

    Ballydehob · townland · Cork

    Ruins of two copper mines at Ballydehob were discovered and worked by Colonel Hall, employing between 400 and 500 people. The nearby Kippagh mine on the Audley estate was also extensively worked by him.

    Read the passage

    * At Balledehob are the ruins of two copper mines, discovered and worked by Colonel Hall— one of them so extensively, as for a lonp period to employ between 400 and 500 persons. The copper mine of Kippagh, also discovered and worked by him. is some four or live miles from the sea. It is the famous mine on the Audley estate, to work which a company was formed in London after it had been exhausted and abandoned by Colonel Hall : of course the speculation was a total loss to the shareholders.

    E

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here are the ruins of two copper mines, discovered and worked by Colonel Hall. One was worked so extensively that it employed between 400 and 500 people. He also discovered and worked the Kippagh mine on the Audley estate. After Hall had exhausted and abandoned it, a company was formed in London to work it, and the speculation was a total loss to the shareholders.

36. Fort-del-Or Spanish fortification at Smerwick

    Smerwick Harbour · harbour · Kerry

    On the north-west side of Smerwick Harbour, nearer Drumlin Head, stand the remains of a Spanish fortification called Fort-del-Or, a relic of Spanish military presence on the Kerry coast.

    Read the passage

    On the north-west side of Smerwick Harbour, nearer Drumlin-head, are the remains of a Spanish fortification, called " Fort-del-Or." At the southern side of Cape Sybil, at the head of a small creek, are the remains of another castle, called Sybilla's or Ferriter's Castle.

    If the visitor should have time to visit the Eagle Mountain and Blasket Islands, on Dunquin Promontoiy, he will be rewarded by seeing some very magnificent coast and rock scenery, and meeting on the islands a singular primitive race of people ; but this will occupy more time than most tourists have to spare. An additional historic interest is given to these islands from the circumstance that a portion of the Spanish Armada was wrecked among them, including an admiral's ship — " Our Lady of the Rosary^ Among those who perished was a Spanish Prince — the Prince of Asculi — whose burial-place is still shown, near the ruined church at Dunquin.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

37. Glanleam, seat of the Knight of Kerry on Valentia Island

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    The Knight of Kerry, Fitzgerald, resides at Glanleam, a charming wooded demesne on the north-east shore of Valentia Island. He strives to improve the lot of about two thousand islanders under his care, continuing the heroic qualities of the Geraldine line.

    Read the passage

    Before we reach Cahirciveen, proceeding from AVaterville, we turn off to the Ferry — less than a quarter of a mile in length — by which we cross to reach the renowned island of Valencia. Valencia is the property of Fitzgerald, the Knight of Kerry. He is an excellent, considerate, and enterprising landlord ; and if there be, here and there, in his "dominions" evidence of miseiy, or, at all events, of indifference to decency and comfort, the evil arises from circumstances he can, as yet, neither change nor control. The Knight resides at Glanleam, a charming wooded demesne at the north-east shore of the island, and finds ample occupation in striving to make contented, happy, and comparatively prosperous, the isolated, simple, and interesting people, numbering about two thousand, whom Providence has placed under his rule. It is not too much to say that the heroic qualities of this branch of the Geraldines have remained with their descendants.!

    The island is six and three quarter miles in length by two and a half miles in breadth. It has been long famous for KeiTy cows — a veiy beautiful little animal, when of the pure kind, which gives an abundance of rich milk. The Knight has been very studious to preserve here the true breed, that has much deteriorated in nearly all other parts of the county. One of the neatest and best inns of the south of Ireland is at Knightstown, which adjoins the Ferry, and which, indeed, is the only collection of houses on the island. It is not our business to do more than allude to the controversy that has long been carried on as to whether Valencia ought or ought not to be the great "Packet Station" of the two hemispheres ; but if it do not belong to us to report concerning the depth of water, the haven in which the navies of both

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

38. Druid's altar near Dunmore

    Dunmore East · town · Waterford

    A Druid's altar stands on a wild and rocky eminence near Dunmore, commanding views of the Suir estuary with Cremla Island and Hook Tower on one side, and the great bay of Tramore with the rugged Cuma rocks in the distance on the other.

    Read the passage

    beautifully situated ; the coast is bold and rocky, and it is immediately upon the sea. The pier is 600 feet in length, and the cost of the works is believed to have exceeded £100,000, a sum immensely disproportionate to their value to the public. "A DruiJs' altar" stands on a wild and rocky eminence near Dunmore. It commands a view, on one side of the estuary, of the Suir with Cremla Island and Hook Tower, and on the other the great bay of Tramore, with the rugged precipices of the Cuma rocks in the distance.

    On the "VVaterford side of the bay, the only other object that will attract notice is the village of Passage ; now a ruinous place, having succumbed to steam, and the several harbour improvements which prevent a necessity for vessels resting there.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 44

39. Bank of Ireland, former Irish Parliament House

    Dublin · city · Dublin

    The Bank of Ireland occupies the former Parliament House on Dame Street, praised as one of the finest examples of British architecture in the kingdom. Built entirely of Portland stone, it is noted for pure classic simplicity, though its architect remains unknown.

    Read the passage

    We must limit ourselves to a very brief notice of the principal public buildings. The front of "the College" faces Dame Street, and by its architectural beauty harmonises with the magnificent structure formerly occupied by the Irish Parliament. The Bank of Ireland — the "Parliament House" before "the Union" — is universally classed among the most perfect examples of British architecture in the kingdom ; and indeed is, perhaps, unsurpassed in Europe. Yet, strange to say, little or nothing is known of the architect — the history of the graceful and beautiful structure being wrapt in obscurity almost approaching to mystery. It is built entirely of Portland stone, and is remarkable for an absence of all meretricious ornament, attracting entirely by its pure and classic, and rigidly simple, architecture.

    The Exchange may, perhaps, rank in beauty next to the Bank ; it was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779, under the immediate direction of Mr. Thomas Cooley, an architect to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. The Custom-house was designed and erected by Mr. James Gandon ; the foundation-stone having been laid in 1781. "The Four Courts" — the building which contains the several Irish courts of law — was commenced by the architect, Mr. Thomas Cooley, in 1786 ; and in consequence of his death, continued by Mr. James Gandon. It is situated on the north side of the lAWej : and is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive object, seen

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dublin along Dame Street, one building stands out among the public buildings. The Bank of Ireland occupies what was the Irish Parliament House before the Union. It is universally classed among the most perfect examples of British architecture in the kingdom, and perhaps unsurpassed in Europe. Yet little or nothing is known of the architect. The history of this graceful and beautiful structure is wrapped in obscurity almost approaching mystery. It is built entirely of Portland stone. What sets it apart is the absence of all meretricious ornament. It attracts entirely by its pure and classic, and rigidly simple, architecture. The Exchange may rank next to it in beauty. It was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779, under Thomas Cooley, an architect to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. The Custom-house was designed and erected by James Gandon, its foundation stone laid in 1781. The Four Courts, containing the several Irish courts of law, was commenced by Thomas Cooley in 1786, and after his death continued by James Gandon. It is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive object.

40. Bograh mountains road brought peace to wild Cork tract

    near Boggeragh Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Cork

    The Bograh mountains in County Cork were a wild and dangerous mountain-tract that posed a source of annoyance to the Government. A shrewd adviser recommended building a road through it; the advice was taken and the area became peaceable and prosperous.

    Read the passage

    * It woxild be impossible to exafrgerate the importance of opening roads through the less frequented districts of Ireland. The necessit)' which formerly existed for keeping a large armed force there has had, at least, this one good effect : " military roads " are to be found in all quarters. One of the wildest mountain-tracts of the county of Cork was, a few }-cars ago, dangerous for travellers at all seasons, and a source of considerable annoyance to the Government. The question was asked, " What was to be done?" A shrewd adviser answered, "Make a road through it." The advice was taken, andtlie Bograh mountains are now peaceable and prosperous.

    t Bianconi, at the Social Science in 1861, made these remarks :— " Notwithstanding the inroads made on my establishment by the railways, and which displaced over 1,000 horses, and obliged me to direct my attention to such portions of the countrs' as had not before the benefit of irtv conveyances, it still employs about 900 horses, travelling over 4.000 miles daily, passing through twentv-three counties, having i:i7 stations, and working twelve mail and day coaches 672 miles ; fifty four-wheel cars, witli"two and more horses, travelling l,9:i0 miles; and sixtj^-six two-wheel one-horse cars, travelling 1,604 miles. And I repeat with pleasure the testimony I gave in 18.57— namely, that 'my conveyances have been in existence now forty-six rears ; many of them carrying verj- important mails, have been travelling during all hours of the day and the night, often in lonely and unfrequented places, yet the slightest injury has never been done by the people to my property, or that entrusted to my care.' "

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 24

41. Clonmel town, population, and scenic walks

    Clonmel · town · Tipperary

    Clonmel had a population exceeding 20,000 and over 1,500 houses, serving as the great outlet for county produce via the navigable Suir. Notable walks included the Wilderness, noted for solemn gloom and wild grandeur, the Hound of Heywood, Fairy-hill Road, and the Quay.

    Read the passage

    suggested the straits to which the gamson was reduced ; he accordingly renewed the siege, and the castle was surrendered, but on very favourable terms. The town has a very "business air; " and is indeed conspicuous for its prosperity, being the great outlet for the produce of the county, the Suir being navigable for vessels of size to within a short distance of its quays. Its population exceeds 20,000, and the number of houses is above 1,500. The surrounding scenery is remarkably beautiful, combining every variety of landscape, from the alpine to the pastoral ; the Commera mountains which rise to the south, appearing to terminate the streets. There are several agreeable walks in the immediate vicinity of the town, the principal of which are the Wilderness, which for solemn gloom and wild grandeur might convey no inadequate idea of that in which the Baptist preached ; the Hound of Heywood, a charming sylvan walk; the Green, commanding a delightful prospect of the river; Fairy-hill Road, the fashionable promenade ; and the Quay, from which there is another pleasing view of the river.

    The principal church at Clonmel, St. Mary's, is picturesque in character, and of great antiquity. The steeple is unique in structure, being an embattled octagon tower rising from a square base. Close to the summit of the steeple, and in each of the

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Clonmel, a town the road passes through in Tipperary. It has a pronounced business air and a prosperity that comes from being the great outlet for the produce of the county. The River Suir is navigable for vessels of size to within a short distance of its quays. The population exceeds 20,000, and the number of houses is above 1,500. The surrounding scenery is remarkably beautiful, combining every variety of landscape from the alpine to the pastoral. The Commera mountains rise to the south and appear to terminate the streets. There are several agreeable walks in the immediate vicinity of the town. The Wilderness is noted for solemn gloom and wild grandeur, said to convey no inadequate idea of that in which the Baptist preached. The Hound of Heywood is a charming sylvan walk. The Green commands a delightful prospect of the river. Fairy-hill Road is the fashionable promenade. And the Quay offers another pleasing view of the river. The principal church, St. Mary's, is picturesque in character and of great antiquity. Its steeple is unique in structure, an embattled octagon tower rising from a square base.

42. Cork city origin on marshy islands

    Cork · city · Cork

    Cork city was originally built on marshy islands, giving it its Irish name 'Corcagh,' meaning land occasionally overflowed by the tide. Until relatively recently the river ran through its principal streets, which were formed by arching over the stream. Spenser described the Lee as enclosing Cork 'with his divided flood.'

    Read the passage

    The situation of Cork is low, having been originally built on marshy islands ; whence its name — " Corcagh," signifying in Irish, land occasionally overflowed by the tide : but the northern and southern suburbs stand u])on high ground. Scarcely a centuiy has passed since the river ran through its piincipal streets, which are formed by arching over the stream. Spenser has happily described —

    " The spreading Lee, that like an island fair Encloseth Cork witli his divided flood."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Cork sits low, built originally on marshy islands. Its Irish name, Corcagh, means land occasionally overflowed by the tide, while the northern and southern suburbs stand on higher ground. Scarcely a century has passed since the river ran through the principal streets, which were formed by arching over the stream. Spenser described the spreading Lee that, in his words, like an island fair, encloseth Cork with his divided flood.

43. Ecclesiastical ruins crowning the Rock of Cashel

    Cashel · town · Tipperary

    The Rock of Cashel rises dramatically above the surrounding country, crowned by venerable ecclesiastical ruins that surpass all others in Tipperary and Ireland. The fortress was built for eternity yet now lies scattered in picturesque confusion, having been several times taken and retaken by Irish and English forces.

    Read the passage

    All the ecclesiastical ruins (of which there are many) in Tipperary, and indeed in Ireland, sink into insignificance compared with those that croAvu the far-famed " Pock of Cashel." The rock, rising above the adjacent countiy, is seen from a very long distance, and from every direction by which it is approached — its summit croAA'ned by the venerable remains that have excited the Avonder and admiration of ages, and Avill continue to do for ages yet to come.

    The "city" — for the rank belongs to it — has an aspect almost as time-AVorn as

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cashel in Tipperary, the rock rises above the surrounding country, visible from a very long distance and from every direction of approach. Its summit is crowned by venerable ruins that surpass all other ecclesiastical remains in Tipperary and in Ireland. These are ruins that have excited the wonder and admiration of ages, and will continue to do so for ages yet to come. The place itself holds the rank of a city, with an aspect almost as time-worn as the remains upon the rock.

44. Giant's Causeway guides compared to Killarney guides

    near Giant's Causeway · population centre · Antrim

    The author contrasts guides at the Giant's Causeway with those at Killarney, noting that northern guides are matter-of-fact and rely on learned scientific authority, while Killarney guides are imaginative, merry, and inventive, making them more pleasant companions.

    Read the passage

    It will interest and amuse those who have visited the Giant's Causeway, to compare and contrast the guides there with those at Killarney. In the north, they are singularly matter of fact ;" all their " discoorse " is learned. Tliey tell you what Doctors This and That said of Tliat and This, and school you with science upon some learned " authority.'"' In Killarney, on the contrary, they are all imaginative ; full of rich fan<ies, and fruitful in the inventive facultj-. They are lively and merry withal, and infinitely more pleasant companions than their fellows of Uie nonh.

    80

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 59

45. Limerick, city of the violated treaty

    Limerick · city · Limerick

    Limerick is historically known as the city of the violated treaty. Its brave defenders, like those of Londonderry, earned praise from both Protestant and Catholic historians as monuments of Irish bravery, generosity, and integrity.

    Read the passage

    0 doubt many tourists will visit en route the city of Limeeick, inasmuch as it is not distant more than twenty-two miles from the Limerick Junction, and also inasmuch as it may be taken en route to Killarney, partly by railway to Eotnes (twenty-six miles), or by voyaging the "mighty Shannon." Limerick is distinguished in history as ' ' the city of the violated treaty;" and the Shannoji, on which it stands, has been aptly termed " the King of Island Rivers." Few of the Irish counties possess so many attractions as that of Limerick for the antiquarian and the lover of the picturesque ; and, with one exception, no city of Ireland has contributed so largely to maintain the honour and glory of the country. The brave defenders of Limerick and Londonderry have received — the former from the Protestant, and the latter from the Catholic historian — the praise that party spirit cannot weaken ; the heroic gallantly, the indomitable perseverance, and the patient and resolute endurance under suffering of both, having deprived political partisans of their asperity — compelling them, for once j at least, to render justice to

    ; their opponents ; all having --^v., \ ^'"7"""^-^

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Limerick, a city distinguished in history as "the city of the violated treaty." It stands on the Shannon, a river that has been aptly termed "the King of Island Rivers." Few Irish counties possess so many attractions for the antiquarian and the lover of the picturesque as Limerick. With one exception, no city of Ireland has contributed so largely to maintain the honour and glory of the country. The brave defenders of Limerick and Londonderry both earned their place in history. The defenders of Limerick received their praise from the Protestant historian, and the defenders of Londonderry from the Catholic historian. That praise is the kind party spirit cannot weaken. The heroic gallantry, the indomitable perseverance, the patient and resolute endurance under suffering of both deprived political partisans of their asperity. It compelled them, for once at least, to render justice to their opponents.

46. Lough Hyne legend of silenced skylarks

    near Lough Hyne · lake or lakes · Cork

    Lough Hyne is associated with a legend, common to lonely loughs with gloomy shores, that a saint disturbed by singing birds prayed to the Virgin to silence their song. The birds were ordered into a less sacred solitude.

    Read the passage

    As at Glendalough, the sweet birds " singing to heaven's gate" having disturbed the saint at her orisons, she prayed to the Yii-gin to silence their song ; and was so far answered, that they were ordered into a solitude less sacred to penitence and prayer. From Skibbereen the Tourist will probably proceed to Bantry : leaving the wild coast with its two village-towns, BALLEDJiHOB and Skull.* To the south-west the coast is dotted with islands —

    " Sea-girt isles, Tliat, like to rich and various gems, inlay The unadorned bosom of the deep ; "

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass Lough Hyne in Cork, there's a legend told of this lake. A saint at her prayers was disturbed by sweet birds, as the old book says, "singing to heaven's gate." She prayed to the Virgin to silence their song, and was answered. The birds were ordered into a solitude less sacred to penitence and prayer.

47. Natural rock with basin hollows at mountain church burial ground

    Priest's Leap · pass · Kerry

    Outside the burial ground of the ancient church on the Priest's Leap road is a natural rock of tabular form with five basin-like hollows on its surface, each about four or five inches deep and a foot in diameter. Each hollow contains a long oval stone fitting the space fully.

    Read the passage

    Nearly midway in the course of the mountain road stand the ruins of one of those small, ancient -, churches, whose era, from their style — the Romanesque — must be placed between the fifth and eleventh centuries. A portion of the walls only remains. The stones are large and Cyclopean, curiously jointed, and well-fashioned. We were told that it is " one of the first churches called at Rome " — a traditional record of its high antiquity. Outside the burial- ground is a curiosity ; — a natural rock of a tabular form with five basinlike hollows on the surface, of four or five inches in depth, and about a foot in diameter. These are filled with water, and in each is a stone of a long oval form fitting the space fully.

    Language utterly fails to convey even a limited idea of the exceeding beauty of

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 34

48. River Lee from source to mouth

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    The river Lee, identified by Ptolemy as the Luvius, flows 55 miles from its source in the romantic lake of Gougane Barra to the city of Cork. Its banks are frequently wooded and less rapid than most Irish rivers, with numerous ruined castles and abbeys along its course.

    Read the passage

    The river Lee, the Luvius of Ptolemy, from the mouth to its source in the romantic lake of Gougane Barra — a distance of fifty-five miles from the city of Cork — is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. It is less rapid than most of the Irish rivers, and its banks are frequently wooded. The Lee is interesting, however, not alone fi'om its natural advantages : it has associations with the history of the past — numerous castles, now in ruins, look down upon it, and many abbeys skirt its sides.

    South of the Lee, the road to Macroom runs upon elevated ground, and, for several miles, commands fine views of the valley, through which the river pursues its tortuous course, and the hills on the opposite side, upon the slopes of which are many beautiful villas. A little to the right, almost on the brink of an overhanging cliff, is the castle of Carrigrohan. Two or three miles farther is the town of BxVllincollig, a Government manufactoiy of powder, and a barrack for artillery and cavalry. South-west of the town about a mile are the remains of an ancient castle, once a stronghold of the Anglo-Saxon BaiTetts. Two miles farther is the small village of "the Ovens," famous for its limestone caves. About halfway between Cork and Macroom, are the friary and castle of Kilceea. They were both built by Cormac, lord of Mu skerry, the one for the protection of the other, and stand on the banks of the small river Bride, a mile to the south of the mail-coach road. They are highly interesting and picturesque. The approach to both is over a long and narrow bridge, which appears to be as old as the venerable structures to which it leads. The castle is described by Smith as "a strong building, having an excellent staii'case of a dark marble from

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 27

49. Ruins of Ventry Castle destroyed after 1641

    Strandsend · townland · Kerry · 1641

    A small castle at Ventry shared in the general destruction of Irish fortresses after the 1641 rebellion, and its ruins remain visible to travellers passing through on the way to Sybil Head.

    Read the passage

    Passing Ventry, and stopping, if you choose,, to look at the ruins of a small castle which shared in the general blowing up of Irish fortresses after 1641, you pursue your road to the northward, by Sugar-loaf Mountains, to Sybil-head. Ascending the slope of the promontory, you expect, when you reach the summit, to descend to the sea, which is shut out from your view until you reach the veiy top : but you suddenly find that one half of the hill has been cut completely away by the ocean, and the instant you reach the summit you see below you the waves of the Atlantic rolling at the foot of a perpendicular clilf of the most stupendous and awful grandeur. Looking down from this point, you see on your right a romantic bay — Smerwick Harbour — and a portion of the coast, formed by successive hills cut in two by the sea, in the same manner as Sybil-head itself. They are called "the Sisters;" and Avhen first they attract the eye they have the appearance of a row of sugar-loafs behind each other. On the left of the promontory, stretching out into the Atlantic, are the Blasket Islands. If the day be windy, you will see eagles soaring about the cliff's ; but if it be calm, you must look for them perched on some of the pinnacles of the rocks rising from the sea below, where you will be sure to discover at least one. There the monarch of the air will sit for hours in solitude, moving nothing but his head, apparently contemplating the sublime scene that surrounds him, and listening to the giant waves that lash their ceaseless spray on the rocks far below his feet, rendering his resting-place iinapproachable by any other of God's creatures. In contrast to him, at the inland side of the hill, you will be frequently passed by the familiar chough, with his glossy black body and scarlet legs, shining in the sun. Far out in the ocean, with the aid of a glass, you will discern ships on their way to or fi'om the ports of America. How peacefully and securely these distant specks seem to traverse that trackless waste, whose unknown terrors so long limited the knowledge and enterprise of civilised man ! You stand on the promontory which for ages was deemed the extreme west of the world ! The most westerly part of it is, however, not Sybil-head, but on the promontory of Dunquin, a little to the south of it, and is called " Tig vourneen Geeran," or " Mary Geeran's house."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Strandsend, you pass Ventry, where the ruins of a small castle still stand. It shared in the general blowing up of Irish fortresses after the 1641 rebellion, when castles across Ireland were destroyed. The ruins are there to be seen as you pass. From Ventry the road runs northward, by the Sugar-loaf Mountains, toward Sybil Head. As you climb the slope of the promontory, the sea is hidden from view until the very top. Then you find that one half of the hill has been cut completely away by the ocean. The instant you reach the summit you see below you the waves of the Atlantic rolling at the foot of a perpendicular cliff of the most stupendous and awful grandeur. Looking down, on your right is Smerwick Harbour, and a portion of the coast formed by successive hills cut in two by the sea. They are called the Sisters, and at first glance they have the appearance of a row of sugar-loafs behind each other. On the left, stretching out into the Atlantic, are the Blasket Islands. If the day is windy, eagles soar about the cliffs. If it is calm, look for them perched on pinnacles of rock rising from the sea, where you will find at least one, sitting for hours in solitude, moving nothing but his head, listening to the giant waves that lash their ceaseless spray on the rocks below. On the inland side of the hill, the chough passes by, with its glossy black body and scarlet legs shining in the sun. Far out in the ocean, with a glass, you can discern ships on their way to or from the ports of America. You stand on the promontory which for ages was deemed the extreme west of the world, though the most westerly point is not Sybil Head itself but the promontory of Dunquin, a little to the south, called Tig vourneen Geeran, or Mary Geeran's house.

50. St. Finn Bar's Cathedral on early church site

    Cork · city · Cork

    Cork's cathedral, dedicated to St. Finn Bar, is built on the site of the early church, with some remains incorporated into the modern structure. The steeple tower is comparatively ancient, and a pointed, richly moulded doorway survives. The cathedral was about to be rebuilt at the time of writing.

    Read the passage

    Antiquities are rare ; the cathedral, dedicated to St. Finn Bar, is built on the site of the early church, a few of the remains of which have been introduced into the modern structure. The tower of the steeple is comparatively ancient. The pointed doorway, recessed and richly moidded, is shown in the annexed cut. A round tower formerly stood in the churchyard ; but having been considerably injured by the fire from the fort on Barrack Hill when ihe great Marlborough stormed Cork, this venerable remain was taken down, and no trace of it at present exists.* Institutions, charitable, scientific, and literary, abound in Cork; -it has been celebrated more than any other city of Ireland for the production and fosterage of genius, and is the birthplace of many persons who have attained eminence in literature, science, and the arts.

    The jails of Cork — the "city" and "county" — are models of good management, cleanliness, and order ; and the Lunatic Asylum is among the best conducted institutions of the kingdom. The hotels are excellent ; f and the city contains many fine buildings ; the most recently erected, the College, the Athena3um, and some others, being now its chief architectural ornaments.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through Cork, you come near St. Finn Bar's Cathedral. Antiquities are rare in the city, but this cathedral stands on the site of the early church, and a few remains of that older building have been worked into the modern structure. The tower of the steeple is comparatively ancient. A pointed doorway survives, recessed and richly moulded. A round tower once stood in the churchyard, but it was considerably injured by fire from the fort on Barrack Hill when the great Marlborough stormed Cork. After that, this venerable remain was taken down, and no trace of it exists at present. Cork abounds in charitable, scientific, and literary institutions. It has been celebrated more than any other city of Ireland for the production and fosterage of genius, and is the birthplace of many who attained eminence in literature, science, and the arts.

51. Stone bridge linked to William III's signing of Cashel charter

    Cashel · town · Tipperary · 1690–1702

    A picturesque stone bridge of great antiquity near Cahir is said to be where William the Third signed the charter of Cashel. The remains of an old circular round tower that once protected the pass are also nearby in tolerable preservation.

    Read the passage

    The Tourist may, soon after leaving Cahir, see the hill of Knockgkaffox, with its time-honoured moat ; and also a picturesque stone bridge of great antiquity, upon which William the Third is said to have signed the charter of Cashel. The remains of an old circular round tower, which in former times protected the pass, continue in a tolerable state of preservation.

    GOLDE>' BRIDGE.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cashel, there is a story of a stone bridge near Cahir, old and picturesque, where William the Third is said to have signed the charter of Cashel sometime between 1690 and 1702. Close by, the remains of an old circular round tower that once protected the pass still stand in tolerable preservation.

52. The Gap of Dunloe and the Loe river

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The Gap of Dunloe is a dark, deep ravine traversed by a bridle track along precipice brinks. The dark stream called the Loe runs through it, expanding into lakes and contracting again, while the rocks along the pass bear grotesque forms with names given by the peasantry.

    Read the passage

    the wayfarer. The dark stream is the Loe ; and in its limited course through the Gap it expands at several points into lakes of various and unequal magnitude, and again contracts itself to gather force for a new rush through the valley. The rocks along the pass are of forms the most grotesque ; and each has received some distinguishing name from the peasantry.* The one we have pictured is called "The Turnpike." Soon after passing the Turnpike, the wildest part of the Gap is reached ; and not far off, the ear is suddenly arrested by a "concord of sweet sounds" produced by the water gurgling through a subterranean channel, on its way to the " serpent lake " — but it will be easy to discern the winding channel, rendered black by its depth, and marked out by the green water-plants that grow underneath the water beside it. Although the mountains on either side are for the most part bare, they present occasionally patches of cultivation, " few and far between ; " but sufficient to show that even in this savage region the hand of industry may be employed with

    * One of them is christened, from its singular shape, " O'Donoghua's Heart." The guide maj- perhaps tell you tliat though everj-bodj' knew his heart was a big one, they never thought it was so hard. One of them is the Serpent's Lake ; it obtains its name, according to John Spillane, from an obrious cause — a serpentine channel that conveys the river into it, and when under water, the black mark assumes the form of a seqieut.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 79

53. Tintern Abbey and Clonraines castles

    near Tintern Abbey · monument · Wexford

    At the extremity of a broad bay lies the ancient Tintern Abbey, while a narrow creek terminates at the seven castles of Clonraines. These features mark the rich historical landscape along the Wexford coast.

    Read the passage

    and where the first hostile Englishman trode upon Irish soil. Farther inland is the castle and village of Fethaed — a corruption of "Fought hard" — where the Irish made theii- earliest stand against the onward march of the Anglo-Xorman invaders,* under Strongbow. At the extremity of its broad bay is the ancient abbey of Tinteex ; and, at the termination of a narrow creek, are the seven castles of Clonraines. On the land opposite, the old church of Bannow crowns the summit of a small hill that looks down upon " the Irish Herculaneum " — a town buried long ago in the sand. Looking seaward again, tlie eye falls upon the two small islands called " the Keeroes" — then

    upon a narrow neck of land, that,

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 45

54. Tralee abbey burial place of the Desmonds

    Tralee · town · Kerry

    An abbey near Tralee served for several centuries as the burial place of the Desmonds. The first occupants of its tombs were Thomas Fitzgerald 'the Great' and his son Maurice, both slain at Callan in a fight with the MacCarthy Mor.

    Read the passage

    Tralee is the assize town of the county. It sends a member to parliament ; its present representative being " The O'Donoghue." It contains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. The new Roman Catholic cathedral of this town- is a remarkably beautiful structure, the interior being decorated in much better taste than usual. The remains of several ruins are in the vicinity of Tralee : among others, that of an abbey, in which for several centuries the Desmonds were buried, the first occupants of its tombs being Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed " the Great," and his son Maurice, who were both slain at Callan, in a fight with the Mac Carthy Mor. The most interesting monastic remains in Kerry are, however, those of the abbey of Ardfert — about six miles northwest of Tralee. Ardfert is a bishop's see, held in commendam with the bishopric of Limerick. The ruins of the cathedral are still in good preservation, and bear marks of high antiquity. In the western front are fom- round arches, and in the eastern front three elegant narrow-pointed windows. On the right of the altar are some niches with Saxon mouldings. A round tower, 120 feet high, and built chiefly of a dark marble, which formerly stood near the west front, suddenly fell down in 1771.

    Between Tralee and Tarbert, a distance of nearly thirty miles, the road is inland, yet at no time far from the sea. There are many places of historic note which the

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Tralee, you are passing through the assize town of Kerry, a place of nearly 10,000 inhabitants that sends a member to parliament, its present representative being The O'Donoghue. Among the ruins in the vicinity is the site of an abbey where the Desmonds were buried for several centuries. The first occupants of its tombs were Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed the Great, and his son Maurice. Both were slain at Callan, in a fight with the MacCarthy Mor. The new Roman Catholic cathedral in the town is a remarkably beautiful structure, its interior decorated in better taste than most. The most interesting monastic remains in Kerry are those of the abbey of Ardfert, about six miles northwest of Tralee. Ardfert is a bishop's see, held in commendam with the bishopric of Limerick. The ruins of the cathedral there are still in good preservation and bear marks of high antiquity. The western front has four round arches, and the eastern front has three elegant narrow-pointed windows. On the right of the altar are niches with Saxon mouldings. A round tower, 120 feet high, built chiefly of a dark marble, formerly stood near the west front. It suddenly fell down in 1771.

55. Blarney Castle built by Cormac MacCarthy

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1440–1689

    The stronghold of Blarney was erected about the middle of the fifteenth century by Cormac MacCarthy, surnamed 'Laider' or the Strong, whose ancestors had been chieftains in Munster long before the English invasion. The MacCarthy descendants retained power as Lords of Muskerry and Clancarty until 1689, when their immense possessions were confiscated.

    Read the passage

    The stronghold of Blarney was erected about the middle of the fifteenth century by Cormac Mac Carthy, surnamed " Laider," or the Strong; whose ancestors had been chieftains in Munster from a period long antecedent to the English invasion, and whose descendants, as Lords of Muskerry and Clancarty, retained no inconsiderable portion of their power and estates untirthe year 1689, when their immense posses-

    22 A WEEK AT KILLARNEY.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 19

56. Bray Head watch-tower and views of the Skelligs

    near Bray Head · promontory · Kerry

    Bray Head, the westermost part of Valencia Island, had an old watch-tower on its summit offering views of the famous sea-rocks called the Skelligs. The Skelligs were formerly celebrated as a resort of pilgrims, where many weary penances were performed on their inhospitable crags.

    Read the passage

    The "walker" to Eray Head — although it is distant a few miles from Knight'stown — will receive ample recompense ; there is a good car-road nearly all the way. What a glorious view is obtained from the summit ! standing beside an old, but not an ancient, watch-tower, you gaze in all directions on objects singular, striking, or sublime. Far out in ocean, are the famous sea-rocks, the Skelligs. They rank among the most remarkable curiosities of the Atlantic.

    They were formerly celebrated as the resort of pilgrims ; and many a weary penance has been performed upon their naked and inhospitable crags. The great fSkellig consists of two peaks, which rise from the ocean so perpendicularly as closely to approximate to the shape of a sugar-loaf : the larger aising m thirty-four fathoms of the ocean to 710 feet above its level ; the occasional projections being clothed with grass of "a delicious verdure and remarkable sweetness." The island is, at all times, nearly covered with sea-fowl ; a circumstance for which Dr. Keating, the fanciful "historian" of Ireland, thus accounts: — "There is an attractive virtue in the soil, which draws down all the birds that attempt to fly over it, and obliges them to light upon the rock;" a notion of which the poet Moore has availed himself: —

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

57. Cloch-na-Cuddy holy stone

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    In Lord Kenmare's demesne sits the famous "Cloch-na-Cuddy" stone, surrounded by ancient hawthorns planted in a circle. The peasantry consider it holy and visit it continually, with the blind washing their eyes in water held by two holes in the stone.

    Read the passage

    We have still another Druidic remain to introduce to the reader. Those who walk in Lord Xenmare's beautiful demesne should on no account omit to visit the famous " CLorGH-XA-CrDDT," the stone of Cuddy. It is surrounded by trees, chiefly hawthorn, of immense age and growth, and planted in a circle. From time immemorial this stone has been considered holy by the peasantry. It is visited continually by the ailing — the blind particularly, who wash their eyes with the water contained in two holes here indicated.

    When the Tourist has examined CioroH-s-A- CtTDDY, the circle of Loisavigeen, the Logan Stone in the Gap, the Ogham Library, and orR cave, he will have, perhaps, a clearer notion of the works of the Druids than he can have within an equally limited space elsewhere.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

58. Dingle: most western town in Europe

    Dingle · town · Kerry

    Dingle is described as a town of similar size to Killarney and the most western town in Europe. Its full Irish name, Dingle-i-Couch, is a proverb for an out-of-the-way place. The town retains an old-fashioned character suited to its remote locality.

    Read the passage

    Dingle is a town of little larger size than Killarney. It is the most western town in Europe ; and its full name — Dingie-i-Couch — is an Irish proverb, expressive of a very out-of-the-way place. There are two moderately good hotels. The visitor will find things here somewhat old-fashioned — as suits the locality.

    Let the Tourist rest at Dingle, and prepare for a short journey of singular interest and beauty. We will suppose him to have arrived in the evening. Let him, then, on the following morning, take the road by Yentry to Sybil-head. Yentry is the centre of the earliest attempt at Protestantising in the west of Ireland, and one of the places at which it is said to have been successful. The two adjoining parishes of Yentry and Dunquin now contain several congregations attending Protestant worship, for whom new churches have been built. "Whatever the opinion of the traveller may be of the spiritual results of unquestionably zealous and well-meant exertions in this way, there can be but one as to their temporal consequences. The houses about Yentry are generally neat, clean, and whitewashed ; the smoke has chimneys to get out through, and the light has windows to get in at ; and one at least of John Wesley's doctrines, that cleanliness is akin to godliness, seems to have taken hold of the inmates. The people appear to be more industrious, and therefore more comfortable. The heart-burnings, contentions, and violence which arose at the commencement of the "new reformation" in this district, have now ceased; the numbers of Protestant

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 106

    As the companion tells it

    The road brings you to Dingle, the most western town in Europe. It's about the size of Killarney, and its full Irish name, Dingie-i-Couch, is a proverb for a very out-of-the-way place. Things here are somewhat old-fashioned, as suits the locality. There are two moderately good hotels. The traveller should rest here and prepare for a short journey of singular interest and beauty. Arriving in the evening, the following morning brings the road by Yentry to Sybil-head. Yentry is the centre of the earliest attempt at Protestantising in the west of Ireland, and one of the places where it is said to have been successful. The two adjoining parishes of Yentry and Dunquin now contain several congregations attending Protestant worship, for whom new churches have been built. Whatever the opinion of the traveller may be of the spiritual results of unquestionably zealous and well-meant exertions in this way, there can be but one as to their temporal consequences. The houses about Yentry are generally neat, clean, and whitewashed. The smoke has chimneys to get out through, and the light has windows to get in at. One at least of John Wesley's doctrines, that cleanliness is akin to godliness, seems to have taken hold of the inmates. The people appear to be more industrious, and therefore more comfortable. The heart-burnings, contentions, and violence which arose at the commencement of the new reformation in this district have now ceased; the numbers of Protestant

59. Killarney guides retained at the Victoria Hotel

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Several named guides were attached to Killarney hotels, including Gandsey, son of a famous piper and an intelligent man who had travelled in America, and Miles Mac Sweeny, the angler of the lakes. Both were retained at the Victoria Hotel. Thomas Murphy was noted as a good guide and excellent fisherman.

    Read the passage

    There is Gandsey, son of the famous piper, himself a good musician, plays an excellent bugle, and is a very intelligent man, having travelled also in America and mingled much with ''the quality." Miles Mac Sweeny, a most attentive and obliging person, who knows the locality, and can describe it well. He throws a fly, too, can aid the craftsman, and teach the neophyte, and makes the flies he uses. He is par excellence the angler of the lakes. Both these "good men and true" are now retained at the Victoria. Thomas Murphy, a good guide, a careful boatman, and an excellent fisherman — as we know by experience, for he contrived, although the wind

    THE OLD GriDE.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 60

60. Prince of Wales ascends Carrauntoohil, May 1858

    near Carrauntoohil · mountain or mountain range · Kerry · 1858

    In May 1858, the Prince of Wales, aged sixteen, completed the arduous ascent of Carrauntoohil without assistance, descending through the Black Valley to Brandon's Lodge where a boat provided by Mr. Herbert awaited. The guide Spillane marked the summit with stones, the Prince placing the first.

    Read the passage

    t Spillane has marked the spot upon the highest point on Carran Tuel by a few stones, of which his Royal Highness plated tlie tirst. It is probable that all after visitors will add to it, and that in time it will become a large cairn with a

    liappj' memory.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 72