A week at Killarney : with descriptions of the routes thither from Dublin, Cork, &c.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. The Tunnel through the mountain above the Upper Lake

   Killarney · town · Kerry

   A road tunnel cut through the mountain, marking the transition from the high ground to the level road along the Upper Lake's shore. Beyond it, the road is overhung by richly clothed rocks with forest trees, arbutus, and miniature cataracts fed by water oozing through crevices.

   Read the passage

   the twisting channel — "the Long Eange " — that connects it with its sister kkes ; numbers of small islets are scattered about its surface ; •>' and in the far-oif glimpse of a broad sheet of water — the Lower Lake — we obtain the foretaste of a banquet — abundant, healthful, and delicious. Bat if the Upper Lake — considered as a Lake, merely — is calculated, as we think it is, to disappoint at fii'st, it is grand beyond conception, and certainly far suipasses its more beautiful sisters in the wild maguificence and stern sublimity of j!^ature. From the point we are describing, this peculiar characteristic is not perhaps so striking as it will be when we descend more into the valley. And let us descend : — presently we reach " the Constabulary Barrack," from a spot adjacent to which there is another glorious view. It is called "The Vikw E.0CK." The eye stretches along over the several islands — the Lake Hotel bounding the distance, behind which is a range of hills. We have been watching, from the height, the road that runs past it, and have marvelled how it can convey us down tlie steep : tracing it closely, however, we perceive that it travels round two or three jutting rocks, covered with the richest foliage ; a peep at it may be had every now and then ; at length it is seen, deeply below, skirting the borders of the Lough. AVe shall reach it anon, and he on level ground ; but not until we have made at least a score of pauses, sprung as olten off and on the car, and mounted some tiny hillock to feast upon the prospect once again. We reach the Tunnel at length ; we pass through it, and the mountain is at our back. We shall have to climb no other while the day lasts. Here we are in the centre of Beauty's attractions only ; the road is overhung by huge rocks ; but each of them is richly clothed — some with huge forest trees, others with the lighter and gayer arbutus ; while, at the bases of all, spring up gigantic weeds in marvellous luxuriance, fed perpetually by the clear water that oozes through every crevice, forming here and there miniature cataracts, bearing down tiny pebbles to deposit by the road side. So, on we go — now and then peeping, tluough breaks in the foliage, at the bleak hills opposite, and occasionally crossing a bridge, under which pushes a rapid river. One of them, on its way into the lake, forms the Cascade of Dereicui^nihy ; and this the Tourist must delay to visit. A by-road of about a quarter of a mile leads to it. We soon hear its roar, and ere long mark its foam ascending above the trees. It is beautiful — very beautiful — and its beauty is enhanced by the charming character of the locality in which it is placed. A little rustic bridge crosses the narrow river, and leads to a cultivated garden, where a cottage — Hyde's Cottage — formerly stood. The old cottage is gone, but the liberality of Lord Castlerosse has given to travellers another in its place, where they may "rest and be thankful ;" but the garden remains ; and never have we seen shrubs of finer growth. The rhododendrons have mounted almost into forest trees, and were literally covered with giant blossoms. A tangled path, overshadowed by the arbutus, holly, yew and hazel, leads to the cascade. It is inferior to that of Tore, which we are now approaching ; and we leave it, therefore, undescribed.f

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 62

2. Views from Glanleam garden across sea and mountains

   near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

   From the Knight's garden-seat at Glanleam, visitors see the Skellig Rocks far out at sea, the Blasket Islands, and Mount Brandon on the mainland. Looking right, the summits of the Reeks are visible, with Carran Tuel rising above them all.

   Read the passage

   full of singular caves, are seen on the promontory opposite : far out at sea are those remarkable islands, the Skelligs ; and, turning in another direction, are the islands — the Blasquets — among which Mount Brandon seems to rear its lofty crest, although in reality on the mainland some thirty miles distant. Looking to the right — still seated in this lovely little garden, with its trim walks under trees among rocks — are seen the summits of the Reeks, old Carran Tuel rising above them all. It is indeed a charming spot we are picturing — where the Tourist who loves nature may have rare delight.

   The slate quarries have long been famous : they are now worked by the Valencia Slate Slab Company, of which Mr. J. G. Magnus is the managing director. They

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

3. Devil's Punch-bowl on Mangerton and Tore Waterfall

   Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

   A stream from the Devil's Punch-bowl on Mangerton mountain forms the Tore Waterfall in its progress toward the lakes. This is one of several tributary mountain streams contributing to the Killarney lake system.

   Read the passage

   The principal river which supplies the lakes — The Plesk — rises in the mountain, and enters the Lower Lake at Cahirnane : contributions to its waters are made also by the Deenagh and several tributary mountain streams ; the principal of which are those from the Devil's Punch-bowl in Mangerton, forming in its progress the Tore Waterfall; that from the summit of Glena, which forms O'Sullivan's Cascade; and

   * The exact length and breadth of the three lakes are as follows : —

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

4. The Ovens and its limestone caves

   Ovens · electoral division · Cork

   The small village of the Ovens, situated about two miles beyond Ballincollig on the road to Macroom, is famous for its limestone caves. It is noted as a distinctive landmark along the route.

   Read the passage

   South of the Lee, the road to Macroom runs upon elevated ground, and, for several miles, commands fine views of the valley, through which the river pursues its tortuous course, and the hills on the opposite side, upon the slopes of which are many beautiful villas. A little to the right, almost on the brink of an overhanging cliff, is the castle of Carrigrohan. Two or three miles farther is the town of BxVllincollig, a Government manufactoiy of powder, and a barrack for artillery and cavalry. South-west of the town about a mile are the remains of an ancient castle, once a stronghold of the Anglo-Saxon BaiTetts. Two miles farther is the small village of "the Ovens," famous for its limestone caves. About halfway between Cork and Macroom, are the friary and castle of Kilceea. They were both built by Cormac, lord of Mu skerry, the one for the protection of the other, and stand on the banks of the small river Bride, a mile to the south of the mail-coach road. They are highly interesting and picturesque. The approach to both is over a long and narrow bridge, which appears to be as old as the venerable structures to which it leads. The castle is described by Smith as "a strong building, having an excellent staii'case of a dark marble from

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   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 27

5. Bog of Allen — vast expanse of bogland

   near Bog of Allen · bog · Kildare

   The railway passes through part of the far-famed Bog of Allen, which is of immense extent, containing above 300,000 Irish acres or about 450,000 English acres. The tourist sees little of it from the railway line.

   Read the passage

   The railway next passes through a part of the far-famed Bog of Allen. The Tourist will, however, see little of it in his way. It is of immense extent, containing above 300,000 Irish acres, i.e. about 450,000 English acres.

   The next station is Moxasterevan, and the next Poktaelingtok : Portarlington is

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 9

6. Cape Clear as most famous island

   Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

   Cape Clear is described as the most famous of the islands dotted along the south-west coast of Ireland. These islands are compared to rich and various gems inlaying the deep.

   Read the passage

   the most famous of which is Cape Cleae. Ixishekkex, immediately opposite Baltimore harbour is full of interest ; its ruined abbey is pictured in the annexed print.

   * At Balledehob are the ruins of two copper mines, discovered and worked by Colonel Hall— one of them so extensively, as for a lonp period to employ between 400 and 500 persons. The copper mine of Kippagh, also discovered and worked by him. is some four or live miles from the sea. It is the famous mine on the Audley estate, to work which a company was formed in London after it had been exhausted and abandoned by Colonel Hall : of course the speculation was a total loss to the shareholders.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 21

7. Comeragh Mountains dominating the county landscape

   near Comeragh Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Waterford

   The Comeragh Mountains occupy the centre of County Waterford and are visible from all parts of it, as well as from a considerable portion of Tipperary. They form a prominent landscape feature along the railway route.

   Read the passage

   All the way, after leaving Waterford, we have views of ranges of mountains. But the CoMMEEAGH mountains, which occupy the centre of the county, and are seen from all parts of it, as well as from a considerable portion of Tipperary, are those

   * The traveller should take the left-hand seat in the railway going from Waterford.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 47

8. Cotton's posting establishment in Pembroke Street, Cork

   Pembroke Street · street · Cork

   Mr. Cotton's posting establishment in Pembroke Street, opposite the Imperial Hotel, supplied carriages and horses for tourists travelling to Killarney. His drivers were generally excellent guides, and he attended personally to travellers' needs.

   Read the passage

   t The best df the lintels is " the Imperial," on the South Mall : it is as well managed as any hotel in the kingdom. Here a table d'hote is fitted u]i especially for Ihe accommodation of tourists, and the charges are verj- reasonable. Those who desire to post the tour to Killaniej' may procure good carriages and horses at the posting establishment of Mr. Cotton, opposite the hotel— in Pembroke Street. His drivers are generally excellent guides ; and he sees himself to all the wants and wishes of travellers.

   t No writer concerning Cork can omit to mention with honour and homage the name of the Eev. Theobald Mathew, who now rests from his labours in this cemeterj'. In the city of Cork this truly great and good man commenced the temperance movement : it spread rapidly throughout Ireland ; millions received "from the hands of the estimable Roman Catholic clergyman a jiledge " to abstain from all intoxicating drinks, and to discountenance the cause and practice of intemperance." The regeneration of the people thus effected can be understood and estimated only by those who knew Ireland and the Irish in "old times : " it is said, indeed, that the pledge has been frequently broken ; and that numbers have gone back to the evil habit of drinking. This may be — we believe is — the case: but liuntlreds of thousands have

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 17

9. Legends of O'Donoghue linked to Ross Island

   Ross Island · townland · Kerry

   Ross Island is described as the natural starting point for considering the Legends of O'Donoghue, called the most fertile topic of interest connected with the Lakes. The tales are a pervasive presence for anyone wandering the neighbourhood.

   Read the passage

   A visit to Ross Island naturally suggests a consideration of the Legends of the O'DoNOGHUE — the most fertile topic of interest connected with the Lakes. We shall therefore delay the reader while we relate some of the most striking.

   Wander where you will in this delicious neighbourhood, either up the mountain,

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 89

10. River Laune connects Killarney to the Atlantic

    near River Laune · river · Kerry

    The river Laune connects the Lakes of Killarney to the broad Atlantic Ocean, described poetically as where the naiads meet the mermaidens of Old Ocean. It is located about a mile to the right when crossing the lake.

    Read the passage

    But although our row round the lake was after sunset, it does not follow that others will postpone it to an hour so late. Those who are voyaging earlier may row by Inisfallen, and enter the river Laune — the river where the naiads meet the mermaidens of Old Ocean ; for it connects Killarney with the broad Atlantic.

    4k^%

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 94

11. Shelter bays of the Kenmare coast

    near Ardgroom · population centre · Cork

    Boats are obtainable at Colleras, Ardgroom, or Ballycrovane, described as charming bays in miniature that afford shelter from all winds. These serve as crossing points to Sneem Harbour on the opposite side of Kenmare Bay.

    Read the passage

    side of Kenmare Harbour, miglit in truth supply materials for a full volume ; but we must hasten back to Kenmare, for it is by the northern road the Tourist will usually travel unless he cross the bay — boats being obtainable at Colleras, Ardgroom, or Ballycrovane — charming bays in miniature, that aflPord shelter from all winds ; they will convey across to Sneem Harbour, where there is a convenient country inn, and where the inn-keeper has a horse and car "ready," or a boat if the Tourist desire to make excursions seaward ; or to visit the opposite, from this, side of the Bay.* But it may be, and is, a question whether on the northern side we may not visit or examine scenery as wonderful and beautiful as that we have described. |

    By this — the northern — road the Tourist is on his way round the coast. A mile or two out of Kenmare are the ancient ruins of Dunkerron Castle, once the hospitable

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 101

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Ardgroom now. This is one of three spots where a traveller can find a boat to cross Kenmare Bay. The others are Colleras and Ballycrovane, and together the book calls them charming bays in miniature that afford shelter from all winds. From any of them you can be conveyed across to Sneem Harbour on the opposite shore, where there is a convenient country inn. The inn-keeper there has a horse and car ready, or a boat if you wish to make excursions seaward or visit the opposite side of the bay. The writer notes, though, that it is a question whether the northern side, the side you are on, may not hold scenery as wonderful and beautiful as anything across the water. The tourist travelling this northern road is on the way round the coast.

12. Steam-boat arrival into the bay of Waterford

    near Waterford Harbour · estuary · Wexford

    The author notes that a railway through South Wales connects to large, well-managed steam-boats that bring travellers across the sea into the beautiful bay of Waterford. The harbour-to-harbour voyage takes barely nine hours.

    Read the passage

    We have said that facilities for travelling to, and in, Ireland, have, of late years, largely increased ; recently, however, they have been much more augmented : a railway conveys the tourist to Holyhead in seven hours, and a packet, across the Channel, in four hours. Another railway, traversing South Wales, takes him by large and admirably managed steam-boats across the sea into the beautiful bay of Waterford, a voyage from harbour to harbour of barely nine hours ; railways also conduct him through several parts of the country, and all the way — either from Dublin, Cork, or Waterford — to Killarney.

    There are many inducements to visit Ireland ; one of them, assuredly, is the smallness of the cost at which the enjoyment may be purchased ; the English and Irish railway companies have combined to bring the expenses of the journey within very narrow limits. Most happily, the agitation for "Repeal" is but a sad theme of history ; poverty and misery are operating in Ireland with diminished power ; a conviction of its approaching prosperity is daily becoming more and more strong;

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 3

13. Tarbert on the Shannon

    Tarbert · town · Kerry

    Tarbert lies twelve and a half miles from Listowel on the banks of the Shannon, described as the largest and broadest of Irish rivers. The town offers a good hotel for tourists arriving at this point on the mighty river.

    Read the passage

    From Listowel to Tarbert, the distance is twelve miles and a half : there is a good hotel at Tarbert, and here the Tourist is on the mighty Shannon — the largest and broadest of island rivers.

    168

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 108

14. The Eagle's Nest on the Upper Lake

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    A craggy rock visible from the road above the Upper Lake, known as the Eagle's Nest. The author notes it is seen to better advantage when rowing through the Long Range connecting the Upper and Lower Lakes.

    Read the passage

    The road is continued just above the lake ; but the lake is hidden, now and then, by intervening trees, and thick masses of underwood ; at length we are opposite the "Eagle's Nest" — a craggy rock from this point of view; we shall see it better when rowing through the Long Range.

    A mile or so, and we reach a small mountain rivulet, trickling down the sides of the natural wall, that makes the land boundary of the road ; the lakes and their con-

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 63

15. Tralee Roman Catholic cathedral interior

    Tralee · town · Kerry

    The new Roman Catholic cathedral of Tralee is described as a remarkably beautiful structure, with an interior decorated in much better taste than usual.

    Read the passage

    Tralee is the assize town of the county. It sends a member to parliament ; its present representative being " The O'Donoghue." It contains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. The new Roman Catholic cathedral of this town- is a remarkably beautiful structure, the interior being decorated in much better taste than usual. The remains of several ruins are in the vicinity of Tralee : among others, that of an abbey, in which for several centuries the Desmonds were buried, the first occupants of its tombs being Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed " the Great," and his son Maurice, who were both slain at Callan, in a fight with the Mac Carthy Mor. The most interesting monastic remains in Kerry are, however, those of the abbey of Ardfert — about six miles northwest of Tralee. Ardfert is a bishop's see, held in commendam with the bishopric of Limerick. The ruins of the cathedral are still in good preservation, and bear marks of high antiquity. In the western front are fom- round arches, and in the eastern front three elegant narrow-pointed windows. On the right of the altar are some niches with Saxon mouldings. A round tower, 120 feet high, and built chiefly of a dark marble, which formerly stood near the west front, suddenly fell down in 1771.

    Between Tralee and Tarbert, a distance of nearly thirty miles, the road is inland, yet at no time far from the sea. There are many places of historic note which the

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

16. The Imperial Hotel on South Mall, Cork

    South Mall · street · Cork

    The Imperial on South Mall is described as the best hotel in Cork, as well managed as any hotel in the kingdom. A table d'hôte is fitted up especially for tourists, and charges are very reasonable. Carriages and horses for posting to Killarney can be procured from Mr. Cotton's establishment opposite, in Pembroke Street.

    Read the passage

    t The best df the lintels is " the Imperial," on the South Mall : it is as well managed as any hotel in the kingdom. Here a table d'hote is fitted u]i especially for Ihe accommodation of tourists, and the charges are verj- reasonable. Those who desire to post the tour to Killaniej' may procure good carriages and horses at the posting establishment of Mr. Cotton, opposite the hotel— in Pembroke Street. His drivers are generally excellent guides ; and he sees himself to all the wants and wishes of travellers.

    t No writer concerning Cork can omit to mention with honour and homage the name of the Eev. Theobald Mathew, who now rests from his labours in this cemeterj'. In the city of Cork this truly great and good man commenced the temperance movement : it spread rapidly throughout Ireland ; millions received "from the hands of the estimable Roman Catholic clergyman a jiledge " to abstain from all intoxicating drinks, and to discountenance the cause and practice of intemperance." The regeneration of the people thus effected can be understood and estimated only by those who knew Ireland and the Irish in "old times : " it is said, indeed, that the pledge has been frequently broken ; and that numbers have gone back to the evil habit of drinking. This may be — we believe is — the case: but liuntlreds of thousands have

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 17

17. Two roads to Macroom along the Lee

    Macroom · town · Cork

    There are two roads to Macroom, one on the south bank and one on the north bank of the river Lee. The southern road runs on elevated ground and commands fine views of the valley and the hills opposite, where many beautiful villas sit on the slopes.

    Read the passage

    There are two roads to Mackoom — one on the south, the other on the north bank of the river Lee. "We shall conduct the Tourist by the former, although the latter is frequently preferred.

    The river Lee, the Luvius of Ptolemy, from the mouth to its source in the romantic lake of Gougane Barra — a distance of fifty-five miles from the city of Cork — is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. It is less rapid than most of the Irish rivers, and its banks are frequently wooded. The Lee is interesting, however, not alone fi'om its natural advantages : it has associations with the history of the past — numerous castles, now in ruins, look down upon it, and many abbeys skirt its sides.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 27

18. Valentia Island slate quarries

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    The slate quarries on Valentia Island have long been famous and are worked by the Valencia Slate Slab Company, managed by Mr. J. G. Magnus.

    Read the passage

    The slate quarries have long been famous : they are now worked by the Valencia Slate Slab Company, of which Mr. J. G. Magnus is the managing director. They

    * The railway at Killamey, by being extended forty miles, would convey passengers from London to the Island in eighteen houi-s. The island is the nearest point in Europe to the American continent.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

19. Mount Brandon between Brandon Bay and Smerwick

    Brandon Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Mount Brandon, one of the 'lions' of Dingle, lies to the north between St. Brandon's Bay and Smerwick Harbour, and can be visited on the same day as Sybil Head, though it makes for a very hard day's work.

    Read the passage

    Another of the " lions" of Dingle is Mount Brandon. It lies to the north, between St. Brandon's Bay and Smerwick Harbour. An energetic Tourist may compass visiting this the same day as Sybil-head ; but it will be a very hard day's work.

    Leaving Dingle by the road over Connor Hill, the traveller proceeds to Tralee.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

20. Sneem Harbour inn and transport

    Sneem · town · Kerry

    Sneem Harbour has a convenient country inn where the inn-keeper provides a horse and car or a boat for tourist excursions. It serves as a base for exploring either side of Kenmare Bay.

    Read the passage

    side of Kenmare Harbour, miglit in truth supply materials for a full volume ; but we must hasten back to Kenmare, for it is by the northern road the Tourist will usually travel unless he cross the bay — boats being obtainable at Colleras, Ardgroom, or Ballycrovane — charming bays in miniature, that aflPord shelter from all winds ; they will convey across to Sneem Harbour, where there is a convenient country inn, and where the inn-keeper has a horse and car "ready," or a boat if the Tourist desire to make excursions seaward ; or to visit the opposite, from this, side of the Bay.* But it may be, and is, a question whether on the northern side we may not visit or examine scenery as wonderful and beautiful as that we have described. |

    By this — the northern — road the Tourist is on his way round the coast. A mile or two out of Kenmare are the ancient ruins of Dunkerron Castle, once the hospitable

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 101

21. Passage West quay for cargo and passengers

    Passage West · town · Cork

    About a mile nearer Cork city than Monkstown lies the village of Passage, where all large vessels discharge their cargoes. An excellent quay was built there to facilitate the embarkation and disembarkation of passengers.

    Read the passage

    About a mile nearer the city is the village of Passage, where all large vessels discharge their cargoes, and where an excellent quay has been built to facilitate the

    J)

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 14

22. Railway extension to Dunmanway

    Dunmanway · town · Cork · 1864

    A railroad to Dunmanway, located fifty-three miles from Cork, was announced to be immediately opened. The town lies on the route to Bantry and Glengariff.

    Read the passage

    * A railroad to Dunmanway (fifty-three miles from Cork cnrnitteXp Bantry and Glenpariff will be immediately ofened • and very soon a railway to Macroom itwenly-four miles from Cork) both towns being en route to Bantry and Glengariff. The realer will be [jleased to bear these facts in mind for his guidance when arranging his lour from Cork.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 1

23. Railway extension to Macroom

    Macroom · town · Cork · 1864

    A railway line to Macroom, situated twenty-four miles from Cork, was expected to open very soon. The town is noted as being on the route to Bantry and Glengariff.

    Read the passage

    * A railroad to Dunmanway (fifty-three miles from Cork cnrnitteXp Bantry and Glenpariff will be immediately ofened • and very soon a railway to Macroom itwenly-four miles from Cork) both towns being en route to Bantry and Glengariff. The realer will be [jleased to bear these facts in mind for his guidance when arranging his lour from Cork.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 1

24. Cannon echoes among the Killarney mountains

    Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

    A cannon was fired near the Eagle's Nest, producing a thousandfold echo that rolled through the surrounding mountains with terrific growls and fearful crashes. The effect was likened to thunder, with sounds mingling in solemn harmony and then discordance before dying away and rising again among distant hills.

    Read the passage

    to minister to our enjoyment — and the day was declining before we had expressed ourselves content — preparations were made for firing off the cannon. As soon as they were completed, the match was applied. In an instant every mountain for miles round us seemed instinct with angry life, and replied in voices of thunder to the insignificant and miserable sound that had roused them. The imagination was excited to absolute terror : the gnomes of the mountains were about to issue forth and punish the mortals who had dared to rouse them from their solitude ; and it was easy for a moment to fancy every creek and crevice peopled with "airy things." The sound was multiplied a thousandfold, and with infinite variety ; at first it was repeated with a terrific growl ; then a fearful cra'^h ; both were caught up and returned by the surrounding hills, mingling together, now in solemn harmony, now in utter discordance ; awhile those that were nearest became silent, awaiting those that were distant — the echoes of echoes ; then joining together in one mighty sound, louder and louder ; then dropping to a gentle lull, as if the winds only gave them life ; then breaking forth again into a combined roar that would seem to have been heard hundreds of miles away.->' It is not only by these louder sounds the echoes of the hills are awakened ; the clapping of a hand will call them forth ; almost a whisper will be repeated — far off — ceasing — resuming — ceasing again. The most eloquent j)oet of our age has happily expressed the idea we desire to convey : —

    " A solitarj' ■wolf-dog, ranging on Through the bleak concave, wakes this wondrous chime

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 83

25. Castle Lough at the Lake Hotel

    Castle Lough · lake or lakes · Clare

    The Lake Hotel was formerly a private residence with a demesne that includes a little island. On this island stand the picturesque remains of an ancient castle known as Castle Lough.

    Read the passage

    " TuE Lake Hotel" was formerly a private residence, famous for its beauty of situation, the fine growth of trees, and the little island that forms part of the demesne, on which stand the picturesque remains of an ancient castle — Castle Lougli. The whole of this demesne, with all its advantages, now forms a part of the hotel grounds. The hotel is surroimded by the most beautiful of the scenery of Killarncy : it is bounded on the southern side by Mucross, on the north by the woods of Calier-

    * "We direct special attention to the " airing room " which effectually prevents (he possibility of clanger from (lamp sheets or beds ; every article of linen is kept in this heated chamber until ordered for use. AVe inspected wiih nuich pleasure the posting establishment, superintended by Mr. John Donovan, and attached to the Railway Hotel. There are rarely less than forty horses in the stables ; and these horses arc of the best. There is no better managed concern than tliis of Mr. Donovan in any part of Ireland.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 54

26. Cultivated ground at the base of Toomies Mountain

    Tomies Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Toomies is one of the mountains that actually rises from the Killarney lakes. Between Toomies and the water's edge lies a tract of fertile ground under cultivation.

    Read the passage

    The only mountains that actually rise from the Lake are Tore, Glena, and Toomies, — the Piirijle Mountain ascends behind tlie latter. Between Toomies and the water's edge, there is a tract of fertile ground under cultivation.

    t The autumn months arc generally recommended for visiting Killarney. cliiefly because the lints of foliage are then more varied ; but to our minds this attraction ill compensates for the shortness of the days. We have visited the Lakes at three different seasons — in April, in June, and in September. The Lakes may be seen to great advantage so early as May or .lune ; when, according to a common saying, Inisfallen is covered with snow — i. e. the hawthorns ai'e in full bloom. This tree blooms most luxuriantly at Killarney, and glows to an amazing size. In the demesne of Lord Kenmare there is one tree of such prodigious growl h, that we imagine four hundred men might stand under its branches.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

27. Glena mountain in the O'Donoghue bride legend

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    In the legend of O'Donoghue's bride, a knight (O'Donoghue) rose from the lake on horseback to meet a beautiful maiden on the shore beneath Glena. Every tree on Glena bowed its branches to do homage to him as their native prince, tying the mountain directly to the O'Donoghue tradition.

    Read the passage

    Una was not long there before she heard a noise as of foaming waters ; and then it came nearer and nearer, until she beheld the form of a knight on horseback, his white plumes waving above his helmet, which seemed one huge diamond, his armour laced together with all manner of coloured jewels. The horse was half hidden by the foam of the wave ; but Una said it seemed as if the knight bestrode a rainbow. The softest, sweetest music that ever was heard accompanied him to the shore ; and when he sprang upon the bank where her lady stood, every tree on Glena bowed down its branches to do homage to their native prince. Una was not so overcome with the sight but that she heard the knight praise her lady's beauty, and promise that if she would be faithful to him, and him alone, for seven years, meeting him on that spot every May morning until the seventh morning, that on the seventh he would bear her away to his lake-guarded palace, and make her his bride. This she promised to do ; and sorry was Una to hear her, for she thought within herself how sad it would be for the country to lose so fair a blossom, the poor so good a friend, and her aged father so dutiful a daughter.

    Tor six May mornings, following each other with their flowers, and wreaths of hawthorn, and tender lambs, and singing-birds, and maids as innocent as the one and as blithe as the other — for six May mornings, before the lark sung its carol, or the thrush left its young to seek for food, did the lady meet her royal lover in the same place. The seventh morning was at hand. She changed not, she thought of no other. Her heart was with the Water-king : and every other suitor was dismissed, to her father's grief and the disappointment of her people.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

28. Glen of Aherlow and agrarian disturbances

    near Glen of Aherlow · valley · Limerick

    The Glen of Aherlow was long notorious in the sad records of agrarian disturbances for which Tipperary county was renowned. By the time of writing, however, the area had become tranquil and well-ordered.

    Read the passage

    Leaving this district, we come in view of the famous Glen of Aherloe — long notorious in the sad records of agrarian disturbances for which Tipperary county has been " renowned; " but which happily is now but a theme of history : there are at present few more tranquil and well-ordered shires in Ireland.

    After Bansha station, the station next reached is that of Tippeeaky. The town, which gave name to the county, although veiy ancient, has yielded in rank, population, and importance to that of Clonmel. Tipperary is said to be a coiTuption of the Irish Tobar-a-neidth, which signifies "The well of the plains," from its situation at the base of the Slieve-na-muck hills — a portion of the Galtee mountains. Other etymo-

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 52

29. Indigenous arbutus on the declivities of Glengarriff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    One eminent botanist argues the arbutus is truly indigenous to Ireland, citing its growth on the wild declivities of Glengarriff and around remote mountain loughs in Kerry.

    Read the passage

    t On this ix)iut, however, botanists are much divided in opinion. We have had opportunities of consulting two of the most eminent in Ireland. By one we are told, " There is not the least doubt of its being truly indigenous; for it is found growing on the wild declivities of Glengariff, and bordering many of the little mountain loughs in the remote parts of Kerry, which still remain in a state of almost primitive nature." By the oilier we are informed, " Touching the Arbutus, although now growing spontaneously around Killarney, particularly on limestone, and what is termed red talcose slate, yet I am inclined to think it not strictly a native, but introduced from Spain by the monks. Inisfallen in the sixth century was a place of great wealth ; numerous and valuable presents were constantly contributed to it ; and the stranger monks procured from their own countries whatever would prove useful, either medicinally, culinary, or ornamental. Consequently, some of our rarest plants are found in the vicinity of these religious buildings."

    THE VARIETIES OF VIEWS. /O

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the wild slopes of Glengarriff, grows the arbutus, the strawberry tree, and a question follows it: is this tree truly native to Ireland, or was it brought here long ago? Botanists are divided. One eminent botanist says there is not the least doubt of its being truly indigenous, for it is found growing on the wild declivities of Glengarriff, and bordering many of the little mountain loughs in the remote parts of Kerry, which still remain in a state of almost primitive nature. Another botanist disagrees. He says that although the arbutus now grows spontaneously around Killarney, particularly on limestone and what is termed red talcose slate, he is inclined to think it not strictly a native but introduced from Spain by the monks. Inisfallen in the sixth century was a place of great wealth. Numerous and valuable presents were constantly contributed to it, and stranger monks procured from their own countries whatever would prove useful, either medicinally, culinary, or ornamental. Consequently, some of our rarest plants are found in the vicinity of these religious buildings.

30. Killarney absent from the Down Survey

    Killarney · town · Kerry · 1656

    When the Down survey was completed around 1656, no town of Killarney existed. Sir William Petty surveyed the parish but recorded no town or village of that name on his general or barony maps.

    Read the passage

    When the Down survey was completed, about the year 1656, there was no such town as Killarney in existence. Sir William Petty then surveyed the parish of Killamey ; but neither in his general map, nor in his barony maps, is there any notice of a town or village of the name.- When Thomas, the fourth Lord Kenmare, came of age in 1747, the town consisted of only his lordship's house, and not more than three or four slated houses and 100 thatched cabins, and the whole population could not have exceeded 500. Before the revolution Lord Kenmare's family resided at Eoss, in the castle, and in a contiguous fortified house, and did not reside at Killarney till 1721. Smith, in 1756, says, "A new street with a large commodious

    * The plan of the proposed Clinrcli has been lithogxaphecl ; it will be an elegant as well as a commodious edifice ; and be a credit in lieu of a reproach to the neighbourhood. A printed circular requests assistance from " visitors and tourists ; " we hope it may be, as it certainl}' ought to be, liberally and considerately rendered, by all •' strangers "—who will give thought to the good they may do while sojourning in this channing locality, " where the scenery around so strikingly displays the beauty of God's works!" They are fairly and rightly reminded that while the present church is " unsafe and incapable of repair," a larger building for their accommodation is required than would be necessary for the resident congi'egation : and while an appeal is made to their sense of justice, it will be obvious there are other— and very strong — reasons why they should contribute to this high, holy, and most important work. [This passage was WTitten some four or five years ago ; we regi-et to say that the buUding is not yet commenced — principally, however, we believe, in conseijuence of the ditficulty of obtaining a satisfactory site.]

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 53

31. Killarney in 1747 under Lord Kenmare

    Killarney · town · Kerry · 1747

    When Thomas, fourth Lord Kenmare, came of age in 1747, Killarney consisted of only his lordship's house, three or four slated houses, and about 100 thatched cabins, with a total population not exceeding 500.

    Read the passage

    When the Down survey was completed, about the year 1656, there was no such town as Killarney in existence. Sir William Petty then surveyed the parish of Killamey ; but neither in his general map, nor in his barony maps, is there any notice of a town or village of the name.- When Thomas, the fourth Lord Kenmare, came of age in 1747, the town consisted of only his lordship's house, and not more than three or four slated houses and 100 thatched cabins, and the whole population could not have exceeded 500. Before the revolution Lord Kenmare's family resided at Eoss, in the castle, and in a contiguous fortified house, and did not reside at Killarney till 1721. Smith, in 1756, says, "A new street with a large commodious

    * The plan of the proposed Clinrcli has been lithogxaphecl ; it will be an elegant as well as a commodious edifice ; and be a credit in lieu of a reproach to the neighbourhood. A printed circular requests assistance from " visitors and tourists ; " we hope it may be, as it certainl}' ought to be, liberally and considerately rendered, by all •' strangers "—who will give thought to the good they may do while sojourning in this channing locality, " where the scenery around so strikingly displays the beauty of God's works!" They are fairly and rightly reminded that while the present church is " unsafe and incapable of repair," a larger building for their accommodation is required than would be necessary for the resident congi'egation : and while an appeal is made to their sense of justice, it will be obvious there are other— and very strong — reasons why they should contribute to this high, holy, and most important work. [This passage was WTitten some four or five years ago ; we regi-et to say that the buUding is not yet commenced — principally, however, we believe, in conseijuence of the ditficulty of obtaining a satisfactory site.]

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 53

32. Lord Kenmare's family residence at Ross Castle

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Before the revolution, the Kenmare family resided at Ross, in the castle and a contiguous fortified house, and did not move to Killarney until 1721.

    Read the passage

    When the Down survey was completed, about the year 1656, there was no such town as Killarney in existence. Sir William Petty then surveyed the parish of Killamey ; but neither in his general map, nor in his barony maps, is there any notice of a town or village of the name.- When Thomas, the fourth Lord Kenmare, came of age in 1747, the town consisted of only his lordship's house, and not more than three or four slated houses and 100 thatched cabins, and the whole population could not have exceeded 500. Before the revolution Lord Kenmare's family resided at Eoss, in the castle, and in a contiguous fortified house, and did not reside at Killarney till 1721. Smith, in 1756, says, "A new street with a large commodious

    * The plan of the proposed Clinrcli has been lithogxaphecl ; it will be an elegant as well as a commodious edifice ; and be a credit in lieu of a reproach to the neighbourhood. A printed circular requests assistance from " visitors and tourists ; " we hope it may be, as it certainl}' ought to be, liberally and considerately rendered, by all •' strangers "—who will give thought to the good they may do while sojourning in this channing locality, " where the scenery around so strikingly displays the beauty of God's works!" They are fairly and rightly reminded that while the present church is " unsafe and incapable of repair," a larger building for their accommodation is required than would be necessary for the resident congi'egation : and while an appeal is made to their sense of justice, it will be obvious there are other— and very strong — reasons why they should contribute to this high, holy, and most important work. [This passage was WTitten some four or five years ago ; we regi-et to say that the buUding is not yet commenced — principally, however, we believe, in conseijuence of the ditficulty of obtaining a satisfactory site.]

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 53

33. Lough Leane, 'Lake of Learning,' and its monasteries

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Killarney lakes were celebrated in a very ancient poem as 'the tenth wonder' of Ireland. The Irish name Loch Lene, still recognised among the peasantry, is thought to mean 'the Lake of Learning,' derived from the number of learned monks who once crowded the monasteries of Inisfallen, Mucross, and Aghadoe.

    Read the passage

    The romantic beauties of the Killarney lakes were celebrated ages ago ; in a very ancient poem they are classed as " the tenth wonder" of Ireland. The Irish name is Loch Lcne — "the Lake of Learning," according to some authorities — a name by which it is still recognised among the peasantry, and which it is presumed to have derived from the number of "bookish monks," by whom its monasteries of Inisfallen, Mucross, and Aghadoe were at one time crowded. :j; The lakes are formed and supplied by numerous minor lakes that exist in the surrounding mountains, and may be described as an immense reservoir for the several rivers that also flow into them, having received on their way the waters of innumerable tributary streams. The ouly outlet for the waters thus collected is the narrow and rapid river Laune — a channel along which they proceed to the Atlantic through the beautiful bay of Dingle. The origin of these lakes — covering an extensive valley — is, therefore, self-evident ; but fiction has assigned to them one of a far less obvious natiu'e ; for, as will be readily

    * " The whole scene exquisite. Loveliness is the word that suits it best. The grand is less grand Ihan what may ho found among the Alps, but the softness, the luxuriance, the variety of colouring, the little gardens tliat evorj- small rock exhibits, the romantic disposition of the islands, and graceful sweep of the shores — all this is unequalled anywhere else." — Moore, Dkiry.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

34. Musical echoes at the Eagle's Nest

    Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

    A bugler named Spillane played notes at the Eagle's Nest, and the mountain echoes multiplied and repeated them with extraordinary beauty, as if from a hundred instruments and a multitude of hills. The effect was described as 'enchanting ravishment' and among the chief attractions of the Killarney lakes.

    Read the passage

    effect was magical — that is a poor word to convoy an idea. First he played a single note — it was caught up and repeated, loudly, softly — again loudly, again softly, and then as if by a hundred instruments, each a thousand times more musical than that which gave its rivals birth, twirling and twisting around the mountain, running up from its foot to its summit, then "rolling above it, and at length dying away in the distance until it was heard as a mere whisper, barely audible, far away. Then Spillane blew a few notes — ti-ra-la-ti-ra-la : a multitude of voices, seemingly from a multitude of hills, at once sent forth a reply, sometimes pausing for a second, as if waiting for some tardy comrade to join in the marvellous chorus, then mingling together in a strain of sublime grandeur, and delicate sweetness, utterly indescribable. Again Spillane sent forth his summons to the mountains, and blew, for perhaps a minute, a variety of sounds ; the eifect was indeed that of "■ enchanting ravishment " — giving

    " Eesouudiug grace to all Heaven's harmonies."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 82

35. O'Donoghue's bride carried across Lough Leane

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    A legend tells how a lady, pledged to the O'Donoghue (the Lake-king), walked out at dawn wearing a wreath of white water-lilies and sprang from the bank to join her royal lover on horseback upon the water. The Prince and his bride then flashed across the lake, attended by spirits scattering flowers.

    Read the passage

    wreath she phaced upon her hrow with her own hands, and then walked out into the halmy air, while the stars were alive in the shy, and the wood-pigeons dixaming over their nests. Una followed at a distance, and saw that the Lake-king was waiting for his hride. For a moment her lady stood upon the hank, and waved her arms towards the home of her youth ; then paused, and turned towards her lover, whose noble steed stood as firmly on the liquid waters as if his silver shoes had pressed the earth — the white plumes of his helmet wa'S'ed and danced in the morning air — he stood in his stirrups to receive her, and the same moment the sweetest music floated all around. The lady sprang from earth for ever ; and away — away — away, swifter and brighter than a thousand sunbeams — the Prince and his beautiful Bride flashed across the lake !

    " And spirits, from all the lake's deep bowers, Glide o'er the blue wave, scattering flowers."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

36. O'Donoghue's library visible beneath the lake

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    In the legend of O'Donoghue's pigs, the narrator refers to O'Donoghue taking a turn in his library and remarks that the listener 'may see it in the lake now,' suggesting a submerged or ruinous structure associated with the chieftain beneath the waters of Lough Leane.

    Read the passage

    " And did you never hear of O'Donoghue's pigs'? Sure, the pigs he had war wonderful — so fat and large and handsome, broad-backed and cleep-chested — more like cows — the wonder of the whole counthry they were. "Well, he was a little a' one side for want of money; and he said to his wife, 'My darlin,' he says, — for he was very fond of her, always, — ' My darlin,' he says, ' the times are bad enough, and there's so much talk about the pigs that I'll sell 'em.' ' Sell 'em ! ' she says, looking all ways at him — for she knew her own now — ' is it sell them ? ' ' "VVhisht ! ' he says, ' and don't be talking of what you don't understand ; keep to your little parlour, my dear, and leave O'Donoghue to manage his pigs ! ' "Well, whatever she answered, she said half to herself ; and by that token it wasn't, maybe, agreeble — for when a woman doesn't care to spake out, there is something she wants to keep in, you may be certain sure of, — and O'Donoghue put a frown upon himself that would terrify the lake into a storm at any hour of the day or night ; and so she made a curtshey to him by way of obadience, and left him to himself. Well, he thought to himself, while he was taking a turn in his library (you may see it in the lake now), that, as he only wanted the money for present use, he might as well sell the pigs ; and so off' he druv them to market the next morning. Ye think it quare he'd drive the pigs ? Bedad ! and so it was ; but he had a rason for it — they wotddnH be druv hy any one else. So presently a travelling pig-merchant came up to them, as well as he could through the fau- — for the crowd round the pigs went beyant all, to see O'Donoghue on his white horse standing at the tail of a hundred o' pigs. Well, he offered for the pigs ; and O'Donoghue, when he buttoned up the money, says, ' My good man,' he says, ' if yer discontinted wid yer bargain, jist let me know, and I'll give ye yer money back again.' But the vagabone thought how soft O'Donoghue must be, for he knew he got the pigs for half their value. And one went home, and the other went home ; but the home of O'Donoghue and the home of the pig-driver did not lie the same road. Well, the man drove off his pigs ; and they most broke the heart in him and his men, from the unasy way they wandered — here and there, up and down, in and out. Still, when he thought of the fine bacon they'd make, he Avent on, never heeding the trouble. After two days' weary journey he came to a river ford ; and if ever there had been a bridge there, it was broke down, and the I'iver was foaming and dancing over and around the rocks, cutting and slashing like fun, and glittering

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

37. Prodigious hawthorn tree in Lord Kenmare's demesne

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Within the demesne of Lord Kenmare at Killarney, a hawthorn tree of prodigious growth stands, with branches wide enough to shelter four hundred men. Hawthorns bloom luxuriantly in Killarney, glowing to an amazing size.

    Read the passage

    t The autumn months arc generally recommended for visiting Killarney. cliiefly because the lints of foliage are then more varied ; but to our minds this attraction ill compensates for the shortness of the days. We have visited the Lakes at three different seasons — in April, in June, and in September. The Lakes may be seen to great advantage so early as May or .lune ; when, according to a common saying, Inisfallen is covered with snow — i. e. the hawthorns ai'e in full bloom. This tree blooms most luxuriantly at Killarney, and glows to an amazing size. In the demesne of Lord Kenmare there is one tree of such prodigious growl h, that we imagine four hundred men might stand under its branches.

    X Pliny says it is called " Unedo," because, having ealen one, yon will never desire to eat another. It is said, however, that an agreeable wine is made from the berrj' in the south of Europe.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

38. River Laune, sole outlet of the Killarney lakes

    near River Laune · river · Kerry

    The only outlet for the waters collected in the Killarney lakes is the narrow and rapid River Laune, which channels them to the Atlantic Ocean through Dingle Bay. The river's existence explains the natural origin of the lakes as an immense reservoir in an extensive valley.

    Read the passage

    The romantic beauties of the Killarney lakes were celebrated ages ago ; in a very ancient poem they are classed as " the tenth wonder" of Ireland. The Irish name is Loch Lcne — "the Lake of Learning," according to some authorities — a name by which it is still recognised among the peasantry, and which it is presumed to have derived from the number of "bookish monks," by whom its monasteries of Inisfallen, Mucross, and Aghadoe were at one time crowded. :j; The lakes are formed and supplied by numerous minor lakes that exist in the surrounding mountains, and may be described as an immense reservoir for the several rivers that also flow into them, having received on their way the waters of innumerable tributary streams. The ouly outlet for the waters thus collected is the narrow and rapid river Laune — a channel along which they proceed to the Atlantic through the beautiful bay of Dingle. The origin of these lakes — covering an extensive valley — is, therefore, self-evident ; but fiction has assigned to them one of a far less obvious natiu'e ; for, as will be readily

    * " The whole scene exquisite. Loveliness is the word that suits it best. The grand is less grand Ihan what may ho found among the Alps, but the softness, the luxuriance, the variety of colouring, the little gardens tliat evorj- small rock exhibits, the romantic disposition of the islands, and graceful sweep of the shores — all this is unequalled anywhere else." — Moore, Dkiry.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

39. Royal Victoria Lake Hotel scenery

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Located two miles from Killarney on the road to the Gap of Dunloe, the hotel stands on the northern bank of the Lower Lake. It offers views of Toomies, Purple Mountain, Glena, Inisfallen, the Reeks, and Mangerton.

    Read the passage

    Much that we have said in praise of this hotel will apply with equal force to the EoTAX ViCTOEiA Lake Hotel, the proprietor and manager of which is Mr. O'Leary. Here are also excellent public rooms and " private apartments," with all the other advantages that make a " home" of an " inn." It is about two miles from the town, on the road to the Gap of Dunloe, and the site it occupies is peculiarly auspicious. It stands on the northern bank of the Lower Lake. Immediately fronting the windows are the Toomies, Purple Mountain, and beautiful Glena ; while midway, in a direct line, is fair Inisfallen. To the right are seen the gigantic Eeeks — with the entrance to Dunloe Gap ; to the left is rugged and lofty Mangerton ; behind is the hill, topped by the ruins of Aghadoe, and fringed by the beautiful woods of Lord Headley's demesne ; so that, look where we will over the noble expanse of water, or towards the land, some object of interest meets our view. AVe prefer to a view of the Hotel an engraving of the scenery presented from the windows of either of the front rooms.

    " TuE Lake Hotel" was formerly a private residence, famous for its beauty of situation, the fine growth of trees, and the little island that forms part of the demesne, on which stand the picturesque remains of an ancient castle — Castle Lougli. The whole of this demesne, with all its advantages, now forms a part of the hotel grounds. The hotel is surroimded by the most beautiful of the scenery of Killarncy : it is bounded on the southern side by Mucross, on the north by the woods of Calier-

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 54

40. Ruins of Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    From the Royal Victoria Lake Hotel, one can see the hill topped by the ruins of Aghadoe. The hill is fringed by the beautiful woods of Lord Headley's demesne.

    Read the passage

    Much that we have said in praise of this hotel will apply with equal force to the EoTAX ViCTOEiA Lake Hotel, the proprietor and manager of which is Mr. O'Leary. Here are also excellent public rooms and " private apartments," with all the other advantages that make a " home" of an " inn." It is about two miles from the town, on the road to the Gap of Dunloe, and the site it occupies is peculiarly auspicious. It stands on the northern bank of the Lower Lake. Immediately fronting the windows are the Toomies, Purple Mountain, and beautiful Glena ; while midway, in a direct line, is fair Inisfallen. To the right are seen the gigantic Eeeks — with the entrance to Dunloe Gap ; to the left is rugged and lofty Mangerton ; behind is the hill, topped by the ruins of Aghadoe, and fringed by the beautiful woods of Lord Headley's demesne ; so that, look where we will over the noble expanse of water, or towards the land, some object of interest meets our view. AVe prefer to a view of the Hotel an engraving of the scenery presented from the windows of either of the front rooms.

    " TuE Lake Hotel" was formerly a private residence, famous for its beauty of situation, the fine growth of trees, and the little island that forms part of the demesne, on which stand the picturesque remains of an ancient castle — Castle Lougli. The whole of this demesne, with all its advantages, now forms a part of the hotel grounds. The hotel is surroimded by the most beautiful of the scenery of Killarncy : it is bounded on the southern side by Mucross, on the north by the woods of Calier-

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 54

41. The Earl of Kenmare's estate at Killarney

    Killarney · town · Kerry · 1555

    The Earl of Kenmare, a Roman Catholic peer, owns Killarney town and much of the adjoining district. His family entered Ireland in 1555, and his ancestor Sir Valentine Browne received forfeited Desmond estates under Elizabeth.

    Read the passage

    The population of Killarney is about 7,000 ; and the number of houses may be about 1,000. The proprietor of the town and a large portion of the adjoining district is the Earl of Kenmare, a Eoman Catholic peer,! whose family first entered Ireland a.d. 1555, and whose ancestor, Sir Valentine Browne, received, as an English " undertaker," J a grant of 6,560 acres of the estates forfeited in the Desmond rebellion, temp. Elizabeth. The property so acquired he increased by purchase, and it was subsequently augmented by intermarriages with the princely families of the Eitzgeralds, Mac Carthys, and O'Sullivans.

    When the Down survey was completed, about the year 1656, there was no such town as Killarney in existence. Sir William Petty then surveyed the parish of Killamey ; but neither in his general map, nor in his barony maps, is there any notice of a town or village of the name.- When Thomas, the fourth Lord Kenmare, came of age in 1747, the town consisted of only his lordship's house, and not more than three or four slated houses and 100 thatched cabins, and the whole population could not have exceeded 500. Before the revolution Lord Kenmare's family resided at Eoss, in the castle, and in a contiguous fortified house, and did not reside at Killarney till 1721. Smith, in 1756, says, "A new street with a large commodious

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 53

42. The Killarney workhouse

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The workhouse at Killarney is described as a well-managed institution with clean wards, good ventilation, and sufficient food and employment. The author marvels that destitute poor would remain outside it.

    Read the passage

    inn are designed to be built here ; for the curiosities of the neighbouring lake have of late drawn great numbers of curious travellers to visit it." The town lies in a valley ; from which the lake is hidden by the well- wooded demesne of Lord Kenmare. The workhouse at Killarney should be inspected by every \dsitor : it is at once a most painful and a most gratifying sight. The whole of the arrangements seem to be as near perfection as they can be : the wards, the dormitories especially, are clean and neat and well provided ; the ventilation is admirable, the clothing good, the food wholesome and abundant, and a sufficiency of employment is found in grinding flour, and in manufacturing Ihe various articles used in the house. Our only marvel is that any of the destitute poor remain out of it to endure the want and misery of their own wretched hovels.

    IHji KAILWAV nOTKL.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 54

43. The Paps mountains near Millstreet

    near The Paps · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    About two miles beyond Millstreet on the railway route to Killarney are 'the Paps,' two mountains of singular formation located in Kerry. From there, the mountain scenery remains very fine all the way to Killarney.

    Read the passage

    comes in sight; and about two miles beyond Millstreet we encounter "the

    Paps," two moiuitains of singular formation. Hence, all the way into

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 53

44. The Railway Hotel at Killarney

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Built by the South-Western Railway Company near the station, the Railway Hotel is an elegant building with extensive facilities for tourists. It is located opposite the entrance to Lord Kenmare's beautiful grounds.

    Read the passage

    flowers, to the entrance door. It is a building of mnch architectural elegance ; a reasonably good idea of which may be formed from the appended woodcut. It was built by the South- Western Railway Company, expressly for the accommodation of tourists, and contains all modern improvements : a very spacious coffee-room (upwards of seventy feet long) ; a public drawing-room ; hot and cold baths, of large size ; and all the appliances that can minister to comfort, including " the kitchen." It may be well to observe that ladies freely use both the coffee-room and the public drawingroom ; but there are many private sitting rooms, and upwards of one hundred bedrooms. The manager is Mr. Goodman, who personally attends to every pai't of his huge establishment, directing the several servants, from the waiter to the guide, and being always present at the liberal Table d'Hote. It is indeed impossible to overpraise the management of this hotel. '^'' "VVe speak less from our own experience than from the reports of all with whom we have conversed on the subject. Its drawback is that it does not command views of the lake, that is to say, from the grounds : for from any of the windows of the second floor, there are fine and extensive views of the waters and the mountains. Some will consider the absence of perpetual views a disadvantage, others will hold an opposite opinion ; for from morning till after dusk, tourists will have seen so much of the beauties of the district that perhaps repose will be a relief. The grounds around the hotel are laid out with much taste ; the walks are among choice ferns and flowers ; fountains are judiciously placed ; garden seats are scattered here and there ; and all available means have been adopted that can supply enjoyment when the day's tour has been done. The hotel is opposite the entrance to the beautiful grounds of Lord Kenmare.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 54

45. The three Killarney lakes and their distinctive characters

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The three Killarney lakes are separated by narrow channels but each has distinctive characteristics. The Lower Lake is studded with evergreen-clad islands, the Upper Lake is enclosed by mountains with wild magnificence, and the Middle Lake mingles grace and majestic grandeur.

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    islands, the singailarly fantastic character of the island-rocks, the delicate elegance of the shores, the perpetual occurrence of hays ; but in the wonderful variety produced by the combination of their attractions, which, together, give to the scenery a character inconceivably fascinating — such as the pen and pencil are utterly incompetent to describe.* The shadows from the mountains, perpetually changing, produce a variety of which there can be no adequate conception ; insomuch that the very same spot shall present a different aspect twenty times within a day, Assuredlj^, they far surpass in natural beauty aught that nature has supplied elsewhere in Great Britain; for, with scarcely an exception, the devoted worshippers of Loch Katrine, and the fervid admirers of the northern English lakes, have yielded the palm to those of Killarney ; some, however, having qualitied the praise they bestow upon "the pride of Ireland," by admitting only that "the three lakes considered as one — which they may naturally be, lying so close to each other — are, together, more important than any one of the lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland."! A glance at the map will show, as we have intimated, that the three are separated but by very narrow channels ; and that two of them have scarcely any perceptible division. They have, nevertheless, very distinctive characteristics : the Lower Lake is studded with islands, nearly all being richly clothed with evergreens ; the Tipper Lake is remarkable for its wild magnificence, the mountains completely enclosing it ; and the Middle Lake is conspicuous for a happy mingling of both — not inferior to the one in grace and beauty, or to the other in majestic grandeur.

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46. The three Lakes of Killarney described

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The Lakes of Killarney comprise three bodies of water — the Lower Lake, the Upper Lake, and the Middle or Tore Lake — divided only by narrow channels. They are situated among lofty mountains including Carran Tuel and Mangerton.

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    The Lakes of Killarney are three in number ; the Lowee Lake, the IJprEE, Lake, and the Middle, or Toec Lake. In reality, however, the three must be considered as one ; for they are divided only by narrow channels, the passage between the lower and middle lakes being, indeed, only of a bridge's breadth. ••■' They are situated in the centre of a range of lofty mountains, among which are Carran Tuel and Mangerton,

    * " The Lake consists of three distinct bodies of water ; of these, the first, which is called the Upper Lake, lies embosomed amidst the mountains ; the others, situated at the exterior base of the chain, are bounded at one side alone by mountains ; and in the opposite direction lliey open to a cultivated country, whose surface is diversified by innumerable hills. The last two divisions are nearly upon the same levi-l, ami lie contiguous to each otliei', being separated merely by a narrow peninsula (MuCROSS) and some small islands (Uru'keen and DiKls), between which there are cliannels passable for boats: but the Upper Lake stands three miles distant, at the head of a navigable river, which flows through a romantic valley or defile (Tun LoxQ Range), l^ear the temiination of its course Uiis river divides into two branc'lies, one of which flows peaceably into the Bay of Glena, on the Great or Lower Lake ; the other, forcing its way through a rocky channel, issues with considerable impetuosity into the Middle Lake, under the woods of l)inis Island." (Weld.) This river separates after passing the " Old Weir Bridge.''

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47. Torc Waterfall, finest of the Killarney falls

    near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

    The Tore (Torc) Waterfall is described as the most beautiful of the Killarney Falls. It lay within half a mile of the hotels at Cloghreen, on the direct route to the Upper Lake and the new line to Kenmare.

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    At Cloghreen, close to Mucross Abbey, there are two good hotels ; they do not vie with the three we have named, but they are comfortable and somewhat extensive, and the charges are less than those of their rivals. "The Muckoss Hotel" is close to the Abbey, and near to it is O'Sullivax's Hotel. They are both near the foot of Mangerton, within half a mile of the Tore Waterfall — the most beautiful of the Killarney Falls — and on the direct route to the Upper Lake, and the "new line " to Kenmare. Their situation therefore is highly advantageous, being equally ''convenient" to the three lakes; but "the view" is excluded by the tall trees of Mr. Herbert's demesne.

    In the town there are two hotels ; they will be occupied when the other hotels are full. These are "The Kenmake Arms" and "The Inisfalleit." In the town also there are several lodging-houses, some of which are boarding-houses.

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