A week at Killarney : with descriptions of the routes thither from Dublin, Cork, &c.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Castlemaine: fortress demolished by Cromwell

   Castlemaine · town · Kerry

   Castlemaine derives its name from the small River Maine which runs through the town. A strong fortress formerly stood in the town, demolished by Cromwell.

   Read the passage

   He will first pass through the small towns of Miltown and Castlemaine ; Castlemaine derives its name from a small river — the Maine — which runs through the town, in which formerly stood a strong fortress demolished by "Cromwell."

   ►Shortly after passing this, the character of the scenery begins to change. The road lies along the edge of the haven, which is bounded by a low, flat shore for some miles ; the distant mountains still forming the most attractive feature in the landscape. The mouth of the Laune can be distinguished, where the waters of Killarney Lakes

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 105

2. Chudleigh tomb discovered in St. Multose's Church, Kinsale

   Kinsale · town · Cork

   In the wall of the ancient church of St. Multose at Kinsale, the authors discovered an old tomb partly concealed by rubbish, with a Latin inscription on a nearly rotted wooden panel. The inscription, triggered by the name 'Kerria,' commemorates Thomas Chudleigh, a shipbuilder connected to the taking of Ross Castle.

   Read the passage

   In the wall of the ancient church of St. Multose, at Kinsale, we discovered an old tomb, partly concealed by rubbish ; and learned that this division of the structure had, until very lately, been blocked up by heaps of stone and mortar. The inscription on a wooden panel, almost rotted away, and fixed immediately over the grave, was in Latin. The word "Kerria" excited our curiosity; and, on clearing the stone, we were amply rewarded for our labour.'^'

   As we have observed, from all parts of the lake, and from every one of the adjacent mountains, the Castle of Ross is a most interesting and attractive point in the scenery, and it amply repays the honour it receives by enabling the visitor to obtain, from the summit of its tower, a commanding view of every important object by which it is surrounded. An hour passed in walking round the island will be an hour pleasantly and profitably spent ; and curiosity may be gratified by inspecting the surface of the famous copper mine, the debris of which is scattered in profusion upon the western shore ; among them are several huge portions of a steam-engine— the first, we believe, ever introduced into Ireland. When opened by Colonel Hall in 1804, he obtained unequivocal proof that they had been worked previously; but at a period very remote, and when mining, as an art, was utterly unknown. f

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 88

   As the companion tells it

   As the road passes through Kinsale, the ancient church of St. Multose stands in this town, and in its wall lies an old tomb the authors found partly concealed by rubbish. This part of the structure had, until very lately, been blocked up by heaps of stone and mortar. The inscription was in Latin, on a wooden panel almost rotted away, fixed immediately over the grave. The word "Kerria" excited their curiosity, and on clearing the stone, they were amply rewarded for their labour. The tomb commemorates Thomas Chudleigh, a shipbuilder connected to the taking of Ross Castle. Ross Castle itself stands as a most interesting and attractive point in the scenery, visible from all parts of the lake and from every one of the adjacent mountains. From the summit of its tower you can obtain a commanding view of every important object by which it is surrounded. An hour spent walking round the island inspecting the surface of the famous copper mine may gratify curiosity. The debris is scattered in profusion upon the western shore, among them several huge portions of a steam engine, believed to be the first ever introduced into Ireland. When Colonel Hall opened the mine in 1804, he obtained unequivocal proof that they had been worked previously, at a period very remote, when mining as an art was utterly unknown.

3. Church service at Aghadoe before a thunderstorm drive

   Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

   The author attended service in the pretty church of Aghadoe, after which they enjoyed a delightful drive through the surrounding woods catching glimpses of the lakes, before a mountain storm overtook them.

   Read the passage

   We had attended service in the pretty church of Aghadoe. After service we had a delightful drive through the Headley Woods, catching occasional glimpses of the lakes and the surrounding scenery ; the coney and the hare crossing the road and bounding up the tangled banks every moment. We hastened through the drives ; for the mountains were backed by a deep lurid light, and huge drops of rain Splashed amid the trees — mountain mutterings told of the coming storm. We had hardly reached the shelter of our hotel when the thunder began in right down earnest ; and glorious it was — commencing behind the Reeks, rushing through the Gap of Dunloe — then, bursting forth anew above the Toomies, and shaking the echoes of Glena, pealing hoarsely through the glens and fastnesses of Mangerton — broad hoary Mangerton ! — while the lightning played like a diadem around the beautiful brow of Tore. We sat at the open window of the Victoria, which commanded a panoramic view of the mountains we have named — Inisfallen sleeping in the dark waters of the lake beneath. Every other sound was hushed — even the rail ceased its croaking; — all was silent, save the eagle, whose broken wing secured its liberty in the grounds of the hotel ; and as it sat upon the garden-seat, its head outstretched to the mountains, to which it could never soar, it answered each fresh peal of thunder with a scream, bending as if to listen for the echoes, which, rolling amid the mountains, now loudly, now indistinctly, were indeed most glorious ! Sometimes the thunder

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 97

4. Clondalkin round tower and ancient church

   near Clondalkin · town · Dublin

   At Clondalkin village, four and a half miles from Dublin, stands a round tower in a perfect state of preservation, about ninety feet high and fifteen feet in diameter. Its base was encased with masonry about sixty years prior to protect it from decay. Adjoining ruins of an ancient church and an early abbey are also found here.

   Read the passage

   The first station out of Dublin is that of CLO>^DAXKi]sr — a distance of but four miles and a half. At this village there is a round-tower, in a perfect state of preservation. Its height is about ninety feet, and it measures fifteen feet in diameter ; its base was, however, about sixty years ago, encased with strong mason- work, in order to protect it from the assaults of time. Immediately adjoining the roimd-tower are, as usual, the ruins of an ancient church ; and it is certain that an abbey was founded here at a very early period.

   Passing the stations of LucAN, Hazlehatch, Stkaffan, Salitxs, and Newbeldge, places of little note and of no interest, the train stops within sight of Kildake. The city, although famous for centuries as a " city renowned for saints," has dwindled into comparative insignificance ; some remains of its ancient grandeur, however, still exist, the ruined

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 8

5. Clonmel as birthplace of Sterne and Countess of Blessington

   Clonmel · town · Tipperary

   Clonmel is noted as the birthplace of the author Laurence Sterne and of the accomplished Countess of Blessington, both natives of the town.

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   Clonmcl is remarkable as the birthplace of Lawrence Sterne ; and of this town the accomplished Countess of Blessington was also a native.

   The station next to Clonmcl is Cahie. Passing by the prosperous and well-managed estate of Lord Glengall, we come in view of " the Castle," which stands on the river Suir, and was, as well as the town it protected, very famous in former times. It is said,

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 50

6. Cork's new cemetery converted from botanic garden, 1826

   Cork · city · Cork · 1826

   Cork's new cemetery was formerly a botanic garden attached to the Cork Institution. In 1826 it was sold to the Very Rev. Theobald Mathew, who converted it to its present use as a burial ground. It is described as perhaps unrivalled in the kingdom.

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   Promenades in the immediate neighbourhood of Cork are few ; the oldest is the Mardyke, a walk between rows of aged but ungracefully lopped trees. Once it was lonely and retii'ed, but the spirit of building has surrounded it with houses, and its solitary character, its only recommendation — is for ever gone. The new cemetery, however, demands some notice. It was formerly a botanic garden attached to the Cork Institution; but in 1826 was sold to the Very Rev. Theobald Mathew, who converted it to its present use.;}: It is, therefore, perhaps unrivalled in the kingdom.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 16

7. Eagle's Nest echoes on the Lakes of Killarney

   Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

   The Eagle's Nest is described as a far-famed landmark on the Lakes of Killarney, where echoes return laughs, bugle calls, and female voices tenfold from passing boats.

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   * Among the inducements to visit the Lakes, there is one we cannot omit to notice. For a description of it we must draw upon a friend, as we were not ourselves fortunate enough to witness it : we allude to one of Killamey's far-famed stag-hunts. Our visits to tlie Lakes were paid during months when the j'oung fawns were about, and when a "stag hunt" was impossible without doing much mischief. It is not generally known that the mountains abound with red deer. Tore alone contains man)-, and in the summer evenings they may be heard belling on all sides of its lake. The hounds are now kept by Mr. Herbert ; — a famous pack, well suited to the wildness of these glens. The place of meeting on this occasion was Derricunniliy, the beautiful cascade on tlie Upper Lake. The morning was .ine, and we procured one of the many fine boats which are to be "hired at Killarney. They were all in requisition : nothing could surpass the beauty of tlie scene as we threaded along the various windings between the Upper and Lower Lakes ; boats, lustily manned, filled with ladies, whose gay attire and cheerful faces caused even the mountains to sing with pleasure, — for a merrj' laugh from each boat as it passed the far-famed Eagle's Nest was returned tenfold by its echoes, which kept up a constant reply to the view-halloo of the boatmen, the bugle of the helmsman, and the fainter cadence of the female voice. At length we reached the Upper Lake, and were surprised at the number, beaut)', and appointments of the various boats ; — Lord Headley's with his crew, Mr. O'Connell's, O'SuUivan's, &c., &c., the flags bearing their respective mottoes, all eagerly awaiting the moment of action. At length Mr. Herbert arrived in a splendid cutter, manned by some old college friends, himself pulling stroke — his blue banner bearing the title of his bark, the " Colleen Dhas" (the beautiful mnid). The hounds were now laid on, and soon made the echoes ring with their music. We pulled along shore parallel with their cry ; at length we turned into a bay at the bottom of the lake, and then lay-to by the advice of our boatmen. We had scarcely reached the spot when the helmsman raised his hand in silence, and pointed towards the glens ; we saw a majestic stag bounding towards us. Within a few yards of our boat he dashed into the lake, and was quickly followed by the liounds, tracking him with fatal accuracy. 'I hey soon reached the opposite shore, and climbed tlie mountain side ; at length tlie bugle sounded, and a hundred voices proclaimed tliat the monarch of Tore had fallen. The novelty of the scene, the excitement of the peasantry, the beauty of the rowing — all contributed to render interesting this novel pastime.

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

8. Echoes from Eagle's Nest to the Gap of Dunloe

   near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

   In the pig legend, when O'Donoghue thunders 'Where?' at the pig-driver, every echo from the Eagle's Nest to the Gap of Dunloe is said to shout the word back, demonstrating the acoustic renown of these Killarney landmarks across the mountain landscape.

   Read the passage

   "A green growing rush, rooted under the wathiu- — quite natural -like, waying, with its little tuft of brown bud at the top. — There war his beautiful pigs — his broad bacon turned into green rushes ! First of all, he set up an ullagawn that would shake the Reeks ; and then he turned back fairly and softly towards Killarney to get his money back from the O'Donoghue. When he reached the castle, he knocked at the hall door wid the Dane's hammer that hung there ; and_ out comes the lady. ' And what do ye want, my good man ? ' she says ; so he explained to her. ' Then,' she says, 'you must go up to the Prince's bedside and shake him up,' she says, ' for he is asleep ; and if you find that won't do, pull him by the foot.' He did as she bid him ; but son-a a wake he'd wake. So lifting up the golden quilt that covered the bed, he pulled his foot ; and if he did, as sure as Glena is darkening the wathur, foot, ankle, leg, and thigh came away in his hand. Oh ! how he blessed O'Donoghue and his pigs — the wrong way — as he stood holding the limb, and the Prince sleeping as sweet and as quiet as if the May breezes were playing round his head. So he tucks the leg under the tail of his coat : and though he was trembling from head to foot, he walks past the lady as howU as a ram, and says, ' Thank yer honor, — I've finished my business.' He flew ofi" like the wind, and the leg slipped from under his arm ; and as sure as it did, it took to running before him ! Whichever way he ran, it was before him. More than once he raised his hand to make the blessed sign, hut he had no jmwer. And sure his condition was not bettered when looking back, he saw O'Donoghue hot foot after him. 'Stop,' he cries, 'ye beggarly pig-driver. What ails ye, that ye can't stop when a gentleman tells ye? Give me my leg, he says; and I think it a very unmannerly thing of ye, and a proof of yer ill-breeding, to come to a gentleman's house, and to stale the leg off his body without his lave, and he asleep. Give me my beautiful leg,' says he, coming up to him. ' Plaze yer honorable honor's glory for ever ! ' says the fellow, stopping. ' Sure, it run away, sir— it's on before, sir.' ' Where?' thundered out the Prince; and every echo from the Eagle's Nest to the Gap of Dunloe shouted ' Where ? ' ' There,' answered the nagur. ' Oh ! oh ! ' — and the O'Donoghue laughed — the leg was in its own place. ' And there,' said the Prince, throwing a purse towards him. ' My pigs are at home, and there's yer money. I only wanted my turn out of the Saxon's goold.' "

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

9. Mucross demesne drive around the lake

   Muckross · townland · Kerry

   Mr. Herbert created a ten-mile drive girdling his beautiful lake at Mucross, likened to a huge diamond encircled by emeralds. The drive passes the Abbey and woodland on the left, with alternating views of mountain and water, and is open to visitors every day.

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   The tourist, then, will enter at Mucross gate — open to visitors every day, and on Sundays after two o'clock — and proceed along "the drive," by which Mr. Herbert, with admirable taste, has girdled his beautiful lake. A poet might liken it to a huge diamond encircled by emeralds; and surely, in the three kingdoms, for its extent (ten English miles), there is nothing to surpass it. Immediately after entering, the Abbey to the left, and the deep woodland, are so close and sheltered, that you are unprepared for the alternating views of mountain and water presented at every turn.

   The peninsula, which luns out in a line with the Abbey, divides the two lakes. On the right, glimpses are perpetually caught of the Lower Lake ; while on the left the prettiest parts of Tore have been skilfully brought into view — the mountains, distant and near, overhanging all. Passing the "old mines" (marked on the map)

   Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 66

10. O'Donoghue's Library near Ross Castle

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    A legend holds that when O'Donoghue leapt from the window of Ross Castle, his enchanted books flew after him and were turned into stone. The stone formation, known as O'Donoghue's Library, can still be seen in the Lakes of Killarney.

    Read the passage

    experiment agin. How, when O'Donoghue leaped out of the windy of Poss Castle,

    his enchanted books flew after him — and there they are — O'Donoghue's library, to be seen this day; only turned into stone, and like the Killarney guidebooks — rather

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 92

11. Queenstown: from Cove to royally renamed port

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork · 1849

    Queenstown, built on the side of a steep hill rising terrace above terrace from the water's edge, fronts the mouth of Cork Harbour. Its name was changed from Cove to Queenstown in 1849 in honour of Queen Victoria, who first landed there in Ireland.

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    * " Queenstown " will not be found in any of the books older Ihan 1849, although " Cove '' has been at aU times famous. The name of this port-town was changed from Cove to Queenstown in honour of Her Majesty, who there fii'st lauded in Ireland, in the year 1849.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 13

12. Ruined Augustinian monastery near Cahir

    Caher · town · Tipperary · 1199–1216

    A short distance up the river from Cahir Castle stand the ruins of an ancient monastery, said to have been built in the reign of King John for canons regular of the Order of St. Augustine.

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    the site on which a Caliir, or stone fort, was erected subsequently." It is of considerable extent, but irregular outline, consequent upon its adaptation to the form and broken surface of its insular site, and consists of a great square keep, surrounded by extensive outworks, forming an outer and an inner ballium, with a small court-yard between the two ; these outworks being flanked by seven towers, four of which are circular, and three of larger size, square. Its general character, even now, closely assimilates to that which it presented in 1599 (when it was taken by the Earl of Essex), as it is pictured in the Pacata Hibernia. Yery recently it has been put into thorough repair ; but so judiciously, that its picturesque etfect is in no degree injured. At a short distance up the river are the ruins of an ancient monastery, built, it is said in the reign of King John, for canons regular of the order of St. Augustin.

    The town of Cahir has a remarkably cheerful aspect, and its prosperity is not alone upon the surface ; it is derived principally from the extensive flour- mills, actively and continually at work, in the immediate neighbourhood, and conducted almost exclusively by the " people called Quakers." There are, in several pa)-ts of the south of Ireland, towns universally known and distinguished as " Quaker Towns" — they are remarkable for neatness and cleanliness, for the industry and sobriety of the inhabitants, and an air of comfort and good order in their dwellings — so surely does a good example influence all within its reach. The railway bridge which here crosses the

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 51

13. Schull former collegiate town

    Skull · town · Cork

    Schull, described as a poor village, was once a famous collegiate town. It sits at the base of the bleak and barren Mount Gabriel.

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    picturesque portion of the Irish coast will have to pursue a route less easy of access, but far more certain of recompense for the expenditure of time and labour. The mountains appear to rise directly from the sea, as if they were but the continuations of mountains underneath the ocean ; small villages are thickly scattered at their base. Mount Gabriel, bleak and barren from the foot to the summit, looks down upon the poor village — once a famous collegiate town — of Schull.

    Lakes are to be seen in every valley, upon the mountain sides, and on their summits, from whence pour down the streams that now and then break in cataracts over precipices ; while opposite is the sea, with its stores of green islands, or black rocks — creeks, and bays, and harbours running into the land ; and beyond all, the broad Atlantic, that affords no resting-place for the sea-bird until he closes up his wings and stands on the continent of America.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Schull, a town the road passes through in this stretch of Cork coast. The mountains here seem to rise straight from the sea, as if they are just the continuations of mountains underneath the ocean. Small villages are thickly scattered at their base. Mount Gabriel stands over Schull, bleak and barren from the foot to the summit. It looks down on what the old writer calls a poor village, though he notes it was once a famous collegiate town. Lakes appear in every valley, on the mountain sides, and on their summits, with streams pouring down that now and then break in cataracts over precipices. Opposite is the sea, with its green islands and black rocks, creeks and bays and harbours running into the land. Beyond all is the broad Atlantic, that affords no resting-place for the sea-bird until he closes up his wings and stands on the continent of America.

14. Sugarloaf or Slieve-na-goil, mountain of the wild people

    Sugarloaf Hill · hill or hills · Tipperary

    The Sugarloaf, called Slieve-na-goil meaning 'the mountain of the wild people,' is identified as the most prominent mountain overlooking Glengarriff, distinguished by its conical head soaring into the clouds.

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    Glexgaelff — "the rough glen" — which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise that has Jjeen lavished upon it hy every traveller by whom it has been visited. It is a deep alpine valley, enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles in length, and seldom exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom, as it were, a scene of sui'passing loveliness — endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water ; for the trees are gi'aceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in character ; and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract, are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all, is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands — by one of which it is so guarded and sheltered as to receive the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice ; and the pen must be laid aside in despair ! Our memories, indeed, recall every portion of the magic spot — but only to convince us how weak and inefficient must be our efforts to describe it. AYe are again wandering through the glen — among majestic trees, fantastic rocks, and bubbling rivulets which every now and then rush by huge masses of stone, and, finding a declivity, roar along theii' rapid way, until, encountering some new obstruction, they creep awhile, and anon force a passage onwards, breaking into masses of foam — for there the mountain torrents creep or gallop to mingle with the broad Atlantic. The song of birds is either hushed or unheard ; and but for the ripple, or the roar of waters, there is no sound to distiu'b a solitude perfect and profound. We look up to the mountains ; they are of all forms, altitudes, and outlines. The most prominent among them is the Sugar-loaf, Slieve-na-goil, "the mountain of the wild people," with its conical head, soaring into the clouds ; and, to the rear, Hungiy Hill, with its naked and meagre sides, down which runs a stream from the lake upon its summit, until, gathering as it goes, it breaks in a tremendous cataract of eight hundi'ed feet, expanding as it falls, and flingiag a spray around it, that seems to cover with a thick mist a thu'd part of the hill.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 35

15. The Rock-close at Blarney Castle

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    The Rock-close at Blarney is described as a spot of exceeding wildness and singular beauty, with luxuriant evergreens rooted in limestone rock and the little river Comane guarded by a natural terrace fringed with noble trees. Natural grottos with seats overlook the river, and glimpses of the castle, river, and the mysterious 'Witches' Stairs' can be caught from particular points.

    Read the passage

    sions were confiscated. Tlie scenery that adjoins the castle is exceedingly beautiful. We visited "The sweet Rock-close" — it well deserves the epithet — during a sunny day in June ; and never can we forget the fragrant shade afforded by the luxuriant evergreens that seem rooted in the limestone rock. The little river Comane is guarded by a natural terrace, fringed by noble trees ; several of the spaces between are gi'ottos — natural also ; some with seats, where many a love-tale has been told, and will be, doubtless, as long as Cork lads and lasses indulge in pic-nic fetes, while the blackbird whistles, and the wood-pigeon coos in the twisted foliage above their heads : it is indeed a spot of exceeding wildness and singular beauty ; at some particular points you catch a glimpse of the castle, the river, and the mysterious entrance to the " Witches' Stairs." "We wandered from the shades of the Rock-close across the green pastures that lead to the lake — a fine expanse of water about a quarter of a mile from the castle. The scenery here is rather English than Irish, but every step is hallowed by a legend ; it is implicitly believed that the last Earl of Clancarty who inhabited the castle committed the keeping of his plate to the deepest waters, and that it will never be recovered until a Mac Carthy be again Lord of Blarney. Enchanted cows on midsummer nights dispute the pasture with those of the present possessor, and many an earthly bull has been worsted in the contest. As to fairies — their rings are upon the grass from early summer to the last week in harvest.

    The road to Blarney is singularly beautiful : it runs along the upper Lee, through Sunday's Well ; commanding charming views, near and distant. On a hill side, approaching Blarney, is the famous and prosperous establishment of Dr. Barter — the " cold water cure ;" the Turkish baths are under the same roof.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 19

16. Thunderstorm echoes across Mangerton and the Gap of Dunloe

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    A thunderstorm commenced behind the Reeks, rushed through the Gap of Dunloe, burst above the Toomies, and pealed hoarsely through the glens and fastnesses of Mangerton, while lightning played around the brow of Tore. The echoes rolling amid the mountains were described as most glorious.

    Read the passage

    We had attended service in the pretty church of Aghadoe. After service we had a delightful drive through the Headley Woods, catching occasional glimpses of the lakes and the surrounding scenery ; the coney and the hare crossing the road and bounding up the tangled banks every moment. We hastened through the drives ; for the mountains were backed by a deep lurid light, and huge drops of rain Splashed amid the trees — mountain mutterings told of the coming storm. We had hardly reached the shelter of our hotel when the thunder began in right down earnest ; and glorious it was — commencing behind the Reeks, rushing through the Gap of Dunloe — then, bursting forth anew above the Toomies, and shaking the echoes of Glena, pealing hoarsely through the glens and fastnesses of Mangerton — broad hoary Mangerton ! — while the lightning played like a diadem around the beautiful brow of Tore. We sat at the open window of the Victoria, which commanded a panoramic view of the mountains we have named — Inisfallen sleeping in the dark waters of the lake beneath. Every other sound was hushed — even the rail ceased its croaking; — all was silent, save the eagle, whose broken wing secured its liberty in the grounds of the hotel ; and as it sat upon the garden-seat, its head outstretched to the mountains, to which it could never soar, it answered each fresh peal of thunder with a scream, bending as if to listen for the echoes, which, rolling amid the mountains, now loudly, now indistinctly, were indeed most glorious ! Sometimes the thunder

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 97

17. Torc Waterfall between Torc and Mangerton mountains

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The most famous cascade of the Killarney lakes, a chasm between Torc and Mangerton mountains with a fall of sixty to seventy feet. The approach path is deliberately curved to conceal the full view until the visitor stands directly beneath the waterfall, with the opposite hill planted with young trees and arbutus.

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    At length we arrive at the Torc "Waterfall — the most famous, and beyond comparison the most grand and beautiful of all the cascades about the Lakes. The path that leads to it is entered through a gate (close to which is a small lodge) and over a bridge which crosses the stream that runs into the lake.

    The cascade is a chasm beween the mountains of Torc and Maugerton : the fall is between sixty and seventy feet. The path that leads to it by the side of the rushing and brawling current, which conducts it to the lake, has been judiciously curved, so as to conceal a full view of the fall until the visitor is immediately under it ; but the opposite hill has been beautifully planted — Art having been summoned to the aid of Nature — and the tall young trees are blended with the evergreen arbutus, the holly, and a vast variety of shrubs. As we advance, the rush of waters gradually breaks

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 64

18. Tore Waterfall in full spate after rainstorm

    near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

    The Tore Waterfall is described at its most magnificent, roaring over the ledge as one mass of crystal foam, unusually clear and pellucid after the storm. Sunbeams striking the mist above the falls create halo-like effects of violet, amber, and a hundred tints of light.

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    Again the rain has ceased — paused suddenly. According to Jerry, "de day has taken up for good;" and, after a little more driving, we arrive at the gate that admits to the path leading to the Tore Waterfall. We climb the ascent, slippery thoi;gh it is ; and certainly the waterfall is magnificent — roaring in its pride of power as it dashes on — one mass of crystal foam over the ledge ; we never saw it in such perfection. The surrounding woods are so dark and heavy from recent rain that the foaming torrent looks doubly bright; in general, there is a yellow tone of colour, as if some clayey matter was mingled with the water ; but here every drop is clear — pure — transparent — pellucid. From the height where we stand to the lowest fall it is one mass of sparkling crystal : the sunbeams fall occasionally upon the haze that floats like a halo above the falls, imparting the hues of earth's brightest gems to the trembling dews — violet and amber — a hundred tints of light and glory.

    As we entered our hotel the clocks were at loud variance ; the hall clock deliberately beating three, while that on the landing rattled on — ding — ding — ding — until it paused, from fatigue it is supposed, at twelve.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 97

19. Whiddy Island: largest island in Bantry Bay with fortifications

    near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    Whiddy Island is the largest island in Bantry Bay, lying nearly facing the town of Bantry. It is noted for its fierce-looking fortifications and its fertile fields promising harvest.

    Read the passage

    ^jj ITHER by the Coast road, the road throngli Drjr3i.onvAT, or the road through Gougane Barra, the Tourist arrives at BAyxEY. The far-famed "Bay" is, perhaps, unsurpassed by any harbour in the kingdom for natural beauties combined with natural advantages. As we approach it, along the dreary road from Skibbereen, a sudden turn, at the base of a rugged hill, brings us suddenly within view of the most striking objects which make up the glorious scene. Ear away, in the distant backgi'ound, ai-e dimly seen Mangcrton and the Beeks ; nearer, rise Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and a long range — the Caha Mountains ; among which, it is said, there are no fewer than three hundred and sixty-five lakes — the number having, of course, suggested a legend that some holy saint prayed effectually for one to supply water for each day of the year. Little flat and fertile islands lie at the feet of the spectator; and, nearly facing the toAvn, is Whiddt Island, with its fierce-looking fortifications, and its fields rich with the promised harvest. It is impossible to do jiistice to the exceeding grandeur and surpassing loveliness of the scene ; the whole of it is taken in by the eye at once. We are not called upon to turn from side to side for new objects -we gaze upon it all ; and he must be indeed dead to nature Avho does not drink in as delicious a cb'aught as Nature, in the fulness of her bounty, ever presented.

    The road into the town — a town that has been too truly described as " a seaport without trade, a harbour without shipping, and a coast with a failing fishery " — runs immediately under the fine demesne of the Earl of Bantry — and all the way it is one continued line of beauty : we never for a moment lose sight of the distant mountains, or the foreground of green islands ; while the ear is gladdened by the mingled harmony of rippling waves, and birds that sing among the foliage of the thickly and gracefully wooded plantations.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 31

20. The Four Courts, Dublin

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1786

    The Four Courts, containing the several Irish courts of law, was commenced by Thomas Cooley in 1786 and continued by James Gandon after Cooley's death. It stands on the north side of the Liffey and is described as exceedingly beautiful and attractive.

    Read the passage

    The Exchange may, perhaps, rank in beauty next to the Bank ; it was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779, under the immediate direction of Mr. Thomas Cooley, an architect to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. The Custom-house was designed and erected by Mr. James Gandon ; the foundation-stone having been laid in 1781. "The Four Courts" — the building which contains the several Irish courts of law — was commenced by the architect, Mr. Thomas Cooley, in 1786 ; and in consequence of his death, continued by Mr. James Gandon. It is situated on the north side of the lAWej : and is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive object, seen

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 6

21. Ballincollig powder mills and barracks

    near Ballincollig · town · Cork

    The town of Ballincollig, located two or three miles beyond Carrigrohan on the road to Macroom, contains a Government gunpowder manufactory and a barracks for artillery and cavalry.

    Read the passage

    South of the Lee, the road to Macroom runs upon elevated ground, and, for several miles, commands fine views of the valley, through which the river pursues its tortuous course, and the hills on the opposite side, upon the slopes of which are many beautiful villas. A little to the right, almost on the brink of an overhanging cliff, is the castle of Carrigrohan. Two or three miles farther is the town of BxVllincollig, a Government manufactoiy of powder, and a barrack for artillery and cavalry. South-west of the town about a mile are the remains of an ancient castle, once a stronghold of the Anglo-Saxon BaiTetts. Two miles farther is the small village of "the Ovens," famous for its limestone caves. About halfway between Cork and Macroom, are the friary and castle of Kilceea. They were both built by Cormac, lord of Mu skerry, the one for the protection of the other, and stand on the banks of the small river Bride, a mile to the south of the mail-coach road. They are highly interesting and picturesque. The approach to both is over a long and narrow bridge, which appears to be as old as the venerable structures to which it leads. The castle is described by Smith as "a strong building, having an excellent staii'case of a dark marble from

    34

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 27

22. Muckross demesne drive through rain and sudden views

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The party drove through the Mucross gate and dashed along the drive girdling the beautiful demesne, up hill and down dale, with their driver Jerry pausing to point out beautiful views despite the relentless rain.

    Read the passage

    But it is a thing of moment to be ready in time for our car — inculcating a lesson of punctuality in others by being punctual ourselves. So we agree to "never mind " the clocks, but attend to Jerry's watch, which is "always with Cork;" and the driver, Jerry Sullivan, being as quick and anxious to gratify us as the waiter, Jeny Connor, we migrated from the dwelling-house to the covered car. It is a sort of miniature waggon; and though the wind still blows, and the rain still poiu's, we heed neither, but drive through the Mucross gate. Certainly the Kerry people are the civilest and gentlest in all Ireland — ever ready and good-natured. It pours incessantly ; yet the driver, Jerry, heedless of the rain, only hopes we shall get a view of something, for we deserve it. The beautiful cows are grouped under the trees that so often afford them shelter — but now each leaf is a water-spout. We can only distinguish the outline of the Abbey — pour — pour — the lake has overflowed all its banks, and we splash through the water where the road is generally high and dry. Suddenly, as we arrive at Brickecn Bridge, the rain ceases, and while we get out of the car the sun bursts forth through the gorged clouds ; the face of nature has a damp, drowned aspect, yet words convey no idea of the effect of the sudden sunshine on the landscape ; the view, both to the right and left, created, as it were, in a moment by the sudden burst of light, is magical ; the clouds roll up the mountains — woods, hills, valleys, rocks, cascades, are all illuminated : but, in less time than we have taken to write this line, the sun is again enclosed by a wall of black clouds ; the vapours pour down the mountains, and we are thankful, as we ought to be, for the shelter of the " covered car." We dash through the drive that girdles the beautiful demesne ; up hill and down dale ; Jerry pausing every now and then, and exclaiming, * ' Oh ! den, but it is a pity ! derc is a beautiful view, just dere ! — AVeil, praise to de Almighty, but it is a wonderful day of rain, and no end to it." We get out at Dinis Island, and walk through the pouring shower to the best point for seeing the Old Weii-. Ay ! that is indeed worth seeing — it is almost impossible to believe we have ever glided under

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 97

23. Hyde's Cottage garden and Lord Castlerosse's replacement

    Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

    At the Derrycunihy cascade, a rustic bridge leads to a cultivated garden where Hyde's Cottage formerly stood. The old cottage is gone, but Lord Castlerosse provided a replacement cottage where travellers may rest, and the garden's rhododendrons have grown nearly to the size of forest trees.

    Read the passage

    the twisting channel — "the Long Eange " — that connects it with its sister kkes ; numbers of small islets are scattered about its surface ; •>' and in the far-oif glimpse of a broad sheet of water — the Lower Lake — we obtain the foretaste of a banquet — abundant, healthful, and delicious. Bat if the Upper Lake — considered as a Lake, merely — is calculated, as we think it is, to disappoint at fii'st, it is grand beyond conception, and certainly far suipasses its more beautiful sisters in the wild maguificence and stern sublimity of j!^ature. From the point we are describing, this peculiar characteristic is not perhaps so striking as it will be when we descend more into the valley. And let us descend : — presently we reach " the Constabulary Barrack," from a spot adjacent to which there is another glorious view. It is called "The Vikw E.0CK." The eye stretches along over the several islands — the Lake Hotel bounding the distance, behind which is a range of hills. We have been watching, from the height, the road that runs past it, and have marvelled how it can convey us down tlie steep : tracing it closely, however, we perceive that it travels round two or three jutting rocks, covered with the richest foliage ; a peep at it may be had every now and then ; at length it is seen, deeply below, skirting the borders of the Lough. AVe shall reach it anon, and he on level ground ; but not until we have made at least a score of pauses, sprung as olten off and on the car, and mounted some tiny hillock to feast upon the prospect once again. We reach the Tunnel at length ; we pass through it, and the mountain is at our back. We shall have to climb no other while the day lasts. Here we are in the centre of Beauty's attractions only ; the road is overhung by huge rocks ; but each of them is richly clothed — some with huge forest trees, others with the lighter and gayer arbutus ; while, at the bases of all, spring up gigantic weeds in marvellous luxuriance, fed perpetually by the clear water that oozes through every crevice, forming here and there miniature cataracts, bearing down tiny pebbles to deposit by the road side. So, on we go — now and then peeping, tluough breaks in the foliage, at the bleak hills opposite, and occasionally crossing a bridge, under which pushes a rapid river. One of them, on its way into the lake, forms the Cascade of Dereicui^nihy ; and this the Tourist must delay to visit. A by-road of about a quarter of a mile leads to it. We soon hear its roar, and ere long mark its foam ascending above the trees. It is beautiful — very beautiful — and its beauty is enhanced by the charming character of the locality in which it is placed. A little rustic bridge crosses the narrow river, and leads to a cultivated garden, where a cottage — Hyde's Cottage — formerly stood. The old cottage is gone, but the liberality of Lord Castlerosse has given to travellers another in its place, where they may "rest and be thankful ;" but the garden remains ; and never have we seen shrubs of finer growth. The rhododendrons have mounted almost into forest trees, and were literally covered with giant blossoms. A tangled path, overshadowed by the arbutus, holly, yew and hazel, leads to the cascade. It is inferior to that of Tore, which we are now approaching ; and we leave it, therefore, undescribed.f

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 62

24. Lakes of Clonee - angling and scenery

    near Cloonee Loughs · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The upper and lower Clonee lakes and Lough Inchiquin are united by rapid rivers and contain gracefully wooded islands set among huge mountains. The lakes are noted as among the best fishing waters in Kerry, with salmon, white trout, and brown trout, though little known and seldom visited.

    Read the passage

    While resting at the comfortable " country" inn at Kenmare, the Tourist (especially if he be an angler) should give a day to the southern side of the bay, visiting the lovely lakes of Clonee, that of Glenmore, the harbour of Killmichaeloge, and the adjacent mountains, from the summit of which we look upon the Bay of Bantry ; that beautiful bay is seen on the one side, while the almost as beautiful Bay of Kenmare is in full view on the other. "We cannot find space to describe minutely this charaiing route ; but we must say to the Tourist a word or two of entreaty that he will visit the Lakes of Clonee : they are distant but seven miles from Kenmare, and the road to them has many attractions — the mountains to the left, the bay to the right, midway in which is Dinish Island with its ruined church. A rugged hill bv-road leads along a wild valley to these lovely lakes. Lower and upper Clonee and Lough Inchiquin are united by small but rapid rivers : they contain islands gi'accfully wooded. Huge mountains look down upon them ; and at the extremity is a rich tract of alluvial soil, on which there is a farmhouse, inhabited by a "strong" farmer, who is ever willing to assist the angler — to lend his boats, to lend his flies, to lend (in the Irish way) his bacon, his potatoes, and his whisky. From all we could learn there is no "water" in Kerry more full of fish — the salmon in their season, the white trout generally, and the brown trout always. The place is little known, and seldom trodden. Fair fishing is free, or at least only taxed by the duty of a message to the agent of the Marquis of Lansdowne, to whom the property belongs. But if the angler throw his fly all day without "a rise," his day will not have been ill-spent if he look about him. From all the hill-sides pour contributory streams : —

    " And rushing from their native hills, The voices of a thousand rills Come shouting down the mountain sides ! "

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 100

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along here are the Cloonee Loughs. Upper and lower Clonee and Lough Inchiquin are united by small but rapid rivers, and they contain islands gracefully wooded. Huge mountains look down upon them. At the extremity is a rich tract of alluvial soil, where there is a farmhouse, lived in by a "strong" farmer, who is ever willing to assist the angler. He will lend his boats, lend his flies, and lend, in the Irish way, his bacon, his potatoes, and his whisky. There is no water in Kerry more full of fish. Salmon in their season, white trout generally, brown trout always. The place is little known and seldom trodden. Fair fishing is free, or at least only taxed by the duty of a message to the agent of the Marquis of Lansdowne, to whom the property belongs. But if the angler throw his fly all day without "a rise," the day will not have been ill-spent if he look about him. From all the hill-sides pour contributory streams. "And rushing from their native hills, The voices of a thousand rills Come shouting down the mountain sides." The road to these lakes has its own attractions. The mountains on one side, the bay on the other, and midway in the bay is Dinish Island with its ruined church. A rugged hill by-road leads along a wild valley to reach them.

25. Panoramic view from Mangerton summit

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    The summit of Mangerton affords a vast panorama encompassing the Atlantic, Kenmare River, Bantry Bay, Dingle Bay, the Iveragh coast, the Shannon, Tarbert, Kilrush, the three Killarney lakes, and surrounding mountains including Tore and Toomies.

    Read the passage

    The view from the mountain-top defies any attempt at description ; it was the most magnificent sight we had ever witnessed, and one that greatly surpassed even the dream of our imagination. In the far away distance is the broad Atlantic, with the river of Kenmare, the Bay of Eantry, the Bay of Dingle, and the storm-beaten coast of Iveragh ; farther off still, in another direction, are the Shannon, Tarbert, and Kilrush. Midway are the mountains, of all forms and altitudes, with their lakes, and cataracts, and streams of white foam. At oui" feet lie the three Killarney lakes, with Gleua, and Tore, and even Toomies, looking like protecting walls girdling tliem round about. The islands in the Upper and Lower Lake have, some of them, dwindled into mere

    DEVIL'S PUXCU-IiOWL.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 74

26. Arbutus wood craft workshops in Killarney town

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    In Killarney town, four or five manufacturers craft toys and items from arbutus wood, yew, holly, and bog-oak. Visitors are invited to inspect the workshops and watch the artisans at work.

    Read the passage

    Of the Arbutus wood a variety of toys are made at Killarney, for which there is considerable sale to visitors anxious to retain some palpable reminiscence of the beautiful place. The Tourist will not have passed many minutes at his inn before a fair messenger from one of the "arbutus factories" makes her appearance, and with winning looks and wiling words endeavours to effect sales from the full basket she canies with her. The Arbutus wood — and, very surely, the wood of other trees, such as the yew, the holly, and, above all, the bog-oak — has been converted by the craftsman into a vast variety of items — card- cases, needle boxes, paper-cutters, silk- winders, and so forth ; and sometimes into objects of magnitude — such as tables, writing-desks, and work-boxes. They are manufactured with considerable skill and neatness, and are very pretty specimens of the various woods produced in the neighboui'hood — which it would be a serious reproach to any Toui-ist to leave without having procured a few of these indubitable proofs that he has been where Nature has made a garden of her own for her own self. There are, in the town, four or five manufacturers of these articles, and visitors are invited to inspect the workshops, and see the artisans at work.

    Of course there are plenty of photographs of the Lake scenery to be obtained in Dublin. But visitors will do well to postpone purchases until they are at Killarney, where they will find a skilful and intelligent artist — Mr. Hudson — who has a large stock of views, taken by himself, which exhibit nearly all the places of interest and beauty in the locality.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 57

27. Kilrush described as a fashionable bathing-place

    Kilrush · town · Clare

    Kilrush is described as a pretty and fashionable bathing-place on the mainland opposite Scattery Island. The coast from Kilrush to Kilkee is said to rival any part of the kingdom for sublime grandeur.

    Read the passage

    The coast from Kilrush — on the mainland opposite the island — a pretty and fashionable bathing-place, round to K4lkee, which faces the Atlantic, may vie for sublime grandeur with that of any part of the kingdom. The two towns are distant about eight miles by land ; but, to reach the one from the other by sea, a voyage of little short of forty miles would be necessary, for the long and narrow promontory — the barony of Moyarta — stretches out between them, and forms the northern boundary of the mouth of the Shannon.

    But the Tourist, who begins to consider his journey as finished, will, instead of making this visit to the north side of the Shannon, make his way from Tarbert to Foynes, with its charming and most convenient harbour ; from Foynes by railway to Limerick — through Asheaton, Eathkeale, Adare, and Patrick's Well: thence from Limerick to the Junction, through a rich district ; and from Limerick to Waterford, to Cork, or to Dublin.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 109

28. Knightstown, Valentia Island's only settlement

    Knightstown · townland · Dublin

    Knightstown adjoins the ferry crossing to Valentia Island and is the only collection of houses on the island. It boasts one of the neatest and best inns in the south of Ireland.

    Read the passage

    The island is six and three quarter miles in length by two and a half miles in breadth. It has been long famous for KeiTy cows — a veiy beautiful little animal, when of the pure kind, which gives an abundance of rich milk. The Knight has been very studious to preserve here the true breed, that has much deteriorated in nearly all other parts of the county. One of the neatest and best inns of the south of Ireland is at Knightstown, which adjoins the Ferry, and which, indeed, is the only collection of houses on the island. It is not our business to do more than allude to the controversy that has long been carried on as to whether Valencia ought or ought not to be the great "Packet Station" of the two hemispheres ; but if it do not belong to us to report concerning the depth of water, the haven in which the navies of both

    * The house is a picturesque ruin, richly clad in luxurious ivy; it must have been a good house in its prime, and the neighbouring scenery waa no doubt attractive ; for there is much foliage about it, and it is adjacent to a river. Altliough restoration is out of the question, it would be well if some steps were taken to preserve the remains, and to keep them with some degree of neatness and order.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

29. Lough Currane island chapel ruins

    Lough Currane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Currane contains several pretty islands, one of which has a group of interesting ruins including an ancient chapel still used as a burial-place. The lake is part of a chain of lakes among the surrounding hills.

    Read the passage

    Lough Currane is a charming spot, only partially \roocled, but containing several pretty islands, on one of which is a group of interesting ruins — that of an ancient chapel being still used as a burial-place. It is one of a chain of lakes ; those among the surrounding hills being, we understand, still more beautiful and more productive of sport. If the Tourist look across the bay, he will see the ruins of Ballinskellig Abbey ; it is but six miles distant, and will amply repay a visit.

    We continue our route, and at the end of a few miles come in. sight of Cahirciveen : this is the town of the district, commanding the whole trade of the country within a circuit of nearly forty miles, north, south, and east ; while to the west is the Isla^^d OF Valencia. Yet Cahirciveen is little better than it was thirty years ago — a dull town, that conveys no idea of either activity or prosperity, although its advantages are large and many. It has one object that may interest the Tourist. A mile or so distant is a ruined house, overgrown with ivy, pleasantly situate in a wooded dell beside a river. It is the birthplace of Daniel O'Connell ; and the remains of the room in which he was born are still shown to the curious or patriotic visitor."^'

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

30. Priest's Leap mountain: former communication route

    Priest's Leap · pass · Kerry

    The mountain of the Priest's Leap, north-west of Bantry and visible from all parts of the road, was formerly the principal line of communication between the two picturesque regions of Glengariff and Killarney, though now replaced by a better road.

    Read the passage

    The traveller should not pass unnoticed a mountain, north-west of Bantry several miles, but seen from all parts of the road he journeys. It is the mountain of the Priest's Leap — formerly the principal line of communication between the two

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 33

31. River Laune journey to Dunloe Castle

    Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry

    The author recommends rowing down the River Laune to visit Dunloe Castle by water, describing the scenic journey through a wilderness of water-beauty, lush trees, and salmon and trout springing from the waters.

    Read the passage

    Let no one leave Killarney without rowing a mile or two down the Laune, and visiting DrxLOE Castle by water; — as we did, in the "gloaming" of a summer evening, when the lake was calm — the grey fly floating on its surface, and the salmon and trout springing from the waters. As you turn into the Laune, the current flows so silently that you wonder how it is you rush past the ferry, and then float on through a wilderness of water-beauty. The river widens at each side into little bays, over-arched by trees of the most luxuriant growth, and foliage of every tint ; then turns, so that you get another view of the mountains of the Gap to the left ; while

    148 A WEEK AT KILLARNEY.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

32. Ross Castle – romantic ruins on the lake shore

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Ross Castle is described as a ivy-clad ruin evoking memories of medieval times when the glen chief received homage within its walls. The passage imagines abbot and knight passing through the portal and mountains echoing with the war-pipe.

    Read the passage

    to the whole ; so that it seems like some fairy enchantment — the island in itself containing a sufficiency of beauty, without looking to the lake or mountains beyond. What visions, too, of old, old times, crowd the memory, when pennon and banner floated on the breeze — wlien the glen chief received homage and tribute within those walls upon which the green ivy clusters — when abbot and knight passed through the portal, and the mountains echoed the war-pipe or the shout of joyous revellers !

    A visit to Ross Island naturally suggests a consideration of the Legends of the O'DoNOGHUE — the most fertile topic of interest connected with the Lakes. We shall therefore delay the reader while we relate some of the most striking.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 89

33. Ross copper mine opened by Colonel Hall in 1804

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry · 1804

    Colonel Hall opened the Ross copper mine in 1804 and found unequivocal proof it had been worked previously at a very remote period when mining as an art was unknown. The debris on the western shore includes huge portions of a steam-engine believed to be the first ever introduced into Ireland.

    Read the passage

    As we have observed, from all parts of the lake, and from every one of the adjacent mountains, the Castle of Ross is a most interesting and attractive point in the scenery, and it amply repays the honour it receives by enabling the visitor to obtain, from the summit of its tower, a commanding view of every important object by which it is surrounded. An hour passed in walking round the island will be an hour pleasantly and profitably spent ; and curiosity may be gratified by inspecting the surface of the famous copper mine, the debris of which is scattered in profusion upon the western shore ; among them are several huge portions of a steam-engine— the first, we believe, ever introduced into Ireland. When opened by Colonel Hall in 1804, he obtained unequivocal proof that they had been worked previously; but at a period very remote, and when mining, as an art, was utterly unknown. f

    * The following is a translation of the epitaph —

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 88

34. The Lene streamlet and the naming of the Great Lake

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    A small mountain rivulet trickling down the natural wall beside the road along the Upper Lake, known as 'the Lexe' or Lene. Tradition holds, on uncertain evidence, that this streamlet gave its name in days of old to the Great Lake of Killarney.

    Read the passage

    uecting river form it on the other side. This streamlet is " the Lexe," said (upon what evidence we cannot tell) to have given, in days of old, a name to the Great Lake. To point out all the scenic beauties that occur along this course is out of the question. That must be the task of the guide. He will not hurry you, if you let him have his own way — as you will do, if you are wise. Once at least in every furlong you will have to stop, and gaze either upon some distant object or some beauty close within your ken ; noting where the ancient denizens of the woods and forests — the oak, and yew, and holly of centuries old — are mingled with the young growths of

    Bac^ of Eaftle's Nest

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 64

35. The Royal Exchange, Dublin

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1769–1779

    The Exchange in Dublin was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779 under architect Thomas Cooley, to whom Dublin owed other fine structures. It ranks in beauty next to the Bank of Ireland.

    Read the passage

    The Exchange may, perhaps, rank in beauty next to the Bank ; it was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779, under the immediate direction of Mr. Thomas Cooley, an architect to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. The Custom-house was designed and erected by Mr. James Gandon ; the foundation-stone having been laid in 1781. "The Four Courts" — the building which contains the several Irish courts of law — was commenced by the architect, Mr. Thomas Cooley, in 1786 ; and in consequence of his death, continued by Mr. James Gandon. It is situated on the north side of the lAWej : and is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive object, seen

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 6

36. Tore Waterfall described in glory

    near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

    The Tore Waterfall descends in a broad sheet with a succession of falls rushing against the mountain sides, from the base of the great fall down to Tore Lake. In winter its magnificence can scarcely be pictured, while even in arid seasons it is beautiful with white foam breaking over huge rocks.

    Read the passage

    In the hot summer time this waterfall is indeed beautiful ; but in winter — or in winter weather — its magnificence can scarcely be pictured by the imagination. Let not the reader think this poor print can do it. It conveys about as much idea of the grace and grandeur of the Tore Waterfall as a single feather can do of the form and plumage of a bird of paradise. The water descends in a broad sheet, and the first fall is of considerable width. The passage is then narrowed, and another fall occurs ; then follows a succession of falls — all rushing and foaming against the mountain sides ; and, indeed, almost from the base of the great fall until it reaches Tore Lake, the river goes leaping from one rock to another. Sitting by its side, it requires no great stretch of fancy to believe it a living thing. ^'

    Leaving the waterfall we resume our journey, and soon reach the pretty village of Cloghkeen. Mr. Weld described it, in 1812, as "a decayed village." It has, we are happy to say, got rid of that character, A very elegant little building — the village school — has been placed here, at the expense of the Herbert family; and a pretty church, of recent erection, gives an aspect of cheerfulness and comfoi't to the locality. The shops and cottages about are neatly built and well ordered. Behind it is a pretty lough, out of which a clear stream runs, and flows into the Lower Lake. On a height immediately above the village is the little church of Killaghie — we believe the smallest church in the kingdom. In its construction it is very simple, and is obviously, with the exception of its tower, of remote antiquity. AVild flowers, of various hues, grow from the walls, and adorn its roof of stone. From this spot an extensive and most attractive view may be obtained ; indeed, it is one of the favoured places from which to gain a prospect of the Tore and Lower Lakes.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 65

37. Cahir Castle on the river Suir

    near Cahir Castle · castle · Tipperary

    Cahir Castle stands on the river Suir and was, along with the town it protected, very famous in former times. It is encountered after passing the well-managed estate of Lord Glengall on the railway line from Clonmel.

    Read the passage

    The station next to Clonmcl is Cahie. Passing by the prosperous and well-managed estate of Lord Glengall, we come in view of " the Castle," which stands on the river Suir, and was, as well as the town it protected, very famous in former times. It is said,

    62

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 50

38. Gap of Dunloe route and summit view

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    Tourists are recommended to drive or ride through the Gap of Dunloe first, as reaching the summit reveals a glorious, unexpected view of the upper lake laid out below with its wooded islands. The Purple Valley lies to the left, described as the most sublime scenery at Killarney.

    Read the passage

    * We adopt the following description of a new road from Kenmare to Killarney, which we regret to sa}' we neglected to visit. "There is also scenery of great beauty to the west of the. Lakes of Killarney, at present very little known, partly from want of roads, and partly from want of hotel accommodation. A new road has just been opened by Mr. G-eorge Preston White, through his estate, of about two miles in length, near tlie upper lake, which now enables tourists to drive all round the lakes, which they could not do formerly, and which was a great disadvantage. This new route opens up scenery of the most charming cliaracter; the new drive round the lakes is about thirty miles in length, and there is certainly not in the Queen's dominions a more charming tour tlian this route unfolds. The tourist had better first proceed tlirough the Gap of Dunloe, rather than return that way, because the view which bursts upon the sight on reaching the summit of the Gap, would not have the same effect by reversing the route. It possesses tlie advantage also of presenting another view of the lakes near Luisscauiigli Lough, which comes suddenly into view, and which does not present the same advantage in coming in the opposite <lireTtion. For these and other reasons, therefore, the tourist is recommended first to drive or ride through the Gap of Dunloe, when on reaching the sinnmit of the Gap, that glorious view unexpectedly and suddenly bursts upon the spectator. Here the upper lake is, at it were, mapped out at your feet, displaying its beam if iilly irregular outline with its wooded islands, whilst on the left, in solemn grandeur, lies the Purple Valley, tlie most (l<'(i'lf(l appi'oach to the sublime of anything at Killarney." It is intended to build an hotel on this estate ; it will add materially to the accommodation and enjoyment of tourists.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 99

39. Rossbegh bathing-place and Lough Carha

    Rossbehy · townland · Kerry

    Rossbegh was a pretty creek on Castlemaine Harbour with a good hotel on the main road, serving as the bathing-place of the district with neat lodges for visitors. Nearby Lough Carha, a charming lake environed by hills, was a resting-place for fishermen travelling to Killarney.

    Read the passage

    From an ascent, as we leave the town, we look back on the small island in Valencia Harbour ; it contains one of those singular stone cells, similar to those that are found on the great Skellig, and which are attributed to recluses of the sixth century, with an ancient stone tomb or chapel close by ; while on the north-east side of the harbour stands the ruined Castle of Ballycarberry ; there is here one of those singular forts, that, like Staig Fort, has no history, and concerning which even tradition is silent. It is this harbour — that of Valencia — which connects Cahirciveen with the sea, and supplies it with natui'al advantages of which, unhappily, there have been few to avail themselves. We pursue our route, still by Dingle Bay, until we reach Castlemaine Harbour, which is, in reality, but a continuation of that of Dingle, stretching inland. We gaze over a pretty creek, Rossbegh, where, on the main road, there is a good hotel ; for this is the bathing-place of the district, with its many neat and pretty lodges for the accommodation of visitors. As we pass along we obtain a charming view of a calm and pleasant nook that, nestling among high hills, draws in the milder sea-breezes, and gives them out in health.

    This is the resting-place of those who fish in Lough Carha — a charming lake which we leave to the right in travelling to Killarney. It is environed by hiUs, some

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

40. Tig vourneen Geeran, westernmost point of Ireland

    near Dunquin · parish · Kerry

    The most westerly point of the promontory is not Sybil Head but a spot on the Dunquin promontory called 'Tig vourneen Geeran' or 'Mary Geeran's house,' a little south of Sybil Head.

    Read the passage

    Passing Ventry, and stopping, if you choose,, to look at the ruins of a small castle which shared in the general blowing up of Irish fortresses after 1641, you pursue your road to the northward, by Sugar-loaf Mountains, to Sybil-head. Ascending the slope of the promontory, you expect, when you reach the summit, to descend to the sea, which is shut out from your view until you reach the veiy top : but you suddenly find that one half of the hill has been cut completely away by the ocean, and the instant you reach the summit you see below you the waves of the Atlantic rolling at the foot of a perpendicular clilf of the most stupendous and awful grandeur. Looking down from this point, you see on your right a romantic bay — Smerwick Harbour — and a portion of the coast, formed by successive hills cut in two by the sea, in the same manner as Sybil-head itself. They are called "the Sisters;" and Avhen first they attract the eye they have the appearance of a row of sugar-loafs behind each other. On the left of the promontory, stretching out into the Atlantic, are the Blasket Islands. If the day be windy, you will see eagles soaring about the cliff's ; but if it be calm, you must look for them perched on some of the pinnacles of the rocks rising from the sea below, where you will be sure to discover at least one. There the monarch of the air will sit for hours in solitude, moving nothing but his head, apparently contemplating the sublime scene that surrounds him, and listening to the giant waves that lash their ceaseless spray on the rocks far below his feet, rendering his resting-place iinapproachable by any other of God's creatures. In contrast to him, at the inland side of the hill, you will be frequently passed by the familiar chough, with his glossy black body and scarlet legs, shining in the sun. Far out in the ocean, with the aid of a glass, you will discern ships on their way to or fi'om the ports of America. How peacefully and securely these distant specks seem to traverse that trackless waste, whose unknown terrors so long limited the knowledge and enterprise of civilised man ! You stand on the promontory which for ages was deemed the extreme west of the world ! The most westerly part of it is, however, not Sybil-head, but on the promontory of Dunquin, a little to the south of it, and is called " Tig vourneen Geeran," or " Mary Geeran's house."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

41. Lough Napeasta - dark mountain lake

    near Lough Napeasta · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Napeasta is described as a dark and gloomy lake surrounded by rocky, barren, and precipitous steeps. Its waters find passage to the lower lakes through a single small opening, and it is visited en route to the summit above Lough Inchiquin.

    Read the passage

    Tourist or angler, let him ascend the mountain that bounds Lough Inchiquin : visiting on his way the dark and gloomy lake of Napeasta, surrounded by rocky, barren, and precipitous steeps, and completely hemmed in, except at the small opening by which its waters find a passage to the lower lakes. Having climbed this mountain — what a prospect I The view obtained from the summit is indeed sublime ; it is scarcely possible to conceive aught grander than the expanse of ocean, lake, and mountain. In the immediate foregi'ound is Kenmare Bay : then appear the Macgillieuddy's Reeks, with the fantastic peaks of Carran Tuel ; a little to the right is the Gap of Dunloe, its mountain barriers seeming like huge perpendicular walls ; in fact, from this point of view, you look right through "the G;q)." To the west are Ballinskellig Bay, the Skellig Rocks, and Valencia Island ; and more to the north the magnificent Bay of Dingle, with its great mountain barriers ; to the south is Bantry Bay, with Glcngariff — the whole district being covered with innumerable mountain lakes. But the leading feature of the scene is the broad ocean, which presents itself, broken by great projecting headlands from this point of view. The journey of a day, made on this, the southern

    156

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 100

42. Ancient Castle of Killaha on the old road from Glenflesk

    Killaha · townland · Kerry

    The old road from Glenflesk passes the ancient Castle of Killaha and runs alongside Lough Kittane. The castle is noted as an antiquity along the return route from Glenflesk to Killarney.

    Read the passage

    The Tourist should return from Glenflesk by the old road, which, leaving to the right the ancient Castle of Killaha, runs for some distance by the side of, or at least not far from. Lough Kittane. It is a barren lake on the eastern side of Mangerton, or rather at the base of Crochan Mountain, and is supplied by the streams which run from both ; its own waters are poured into the Flesk by the river Finou. The pedestrian may examine many magnificent objects among the neighbouring glens. We refer to it chiefly to indicate the locality of a wonderful cave, or rather series of caves, of which we may claim the merit of discovery. Paths abound in the neigh-

    TJ

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 95

43. Haulbowline as naval stores depot in Cork Harbour

    near Haulbowline Island · population centre · Cork

    Haulbowline island in Cork Harbour is described as the depot for naval stores. Fishing-boats are depicted waiting for the tide to proceed to sea from the island.

    Read the passage

    The harbour is diversified by other islands beside that of Spike — the largest : one of the most conspicuous, Haulbowlin — the depot for naval stores — is here represented, with fishing-boats waiting for the tide to proceed to sea.

    Leaving these islands to the left, the voyager passes up the beautiful river; rounding a wooded promontory, the village and castle of Monkstown come in sight. The castle was built in the year 1636, and, according to popular tradition, at the cost of a groat. To explain the enigma, the following story is told : — Anastatia Goold, who had become the wife of John Archdckcn, determined while her husband was abroad, serving in the army of Philip of Spain, to give him evidence of her thrift on his return, by surprising him with a noble residence which he might call his own. Her plan was, to supply the workmen with provisions and other articles they required, for which she charged the ordinary price ; but as she had made her purchases wholesale, upon balancing her accounts it appeared that the retail profit had paid all the expenses of the structure, except fourpcncc ! The Archdekens were an Anglo-Irish family, who, "degenerating," became " Hibernices quam Hiberniores " — more Irish than tlie Irish themselves — and assumed the name of Mac Odo, or Cody. They "forfeited" in 1688, having followed the fortunes of James II.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 14

44. Moyarta promontory between Kilrush and Kilkee

    Moyarta · parish · Clare

    The barony of Moyarta is a long and narrow promontory stretching between Kilrush and Kilkee, forming the northern boundary of the mouth of the Shannon. It forces a sea voyage of nearly forty miles between the two towns, though they are only eight miles apart by land.

    Read the passage

    The coast from Kilrush — on the mainland opposite the island — a pretty and fashionable bathing-place, round to K4lkee, which faces the Atlantic, may vie for sublime grandeur with that of any part of the kingdom. The two towns are distant about eight miles by land ; but, to reach the one from the other by sea, a voyage of little short of forty miles would be necessary, for the long and narrow promontory — the barony of Moyarta — stretches out between them, and forms the northern boundary of the mouth of the Shannon.

    But the Tourist, who begins to consider his journey as finished, will, instead of making this visit to the north side of the Shannon, make his way from Tarbert to Foynes, with its charming and most convenient harbour ; from Foynes by railway to Limerick — through Asheaton, Eathkeale, Adare, and Patrick's Well: thence from Limerick to the Junction, through a rich district ; and from Limerick to Waterford, to Cork, or to Dublin.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 109

45. St. Patrick blesses Kerry from afar

    Macgillycuddy's Reeks · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Local oral tradition relates that St. Patrick never entered Kerry but only looked into it, holding his hands out and blessing 'all beyond the Reeks,' referring to the Macgillycuddy's Reeks mountain range.

    Read the passage

    They told us — How St. Patrick never came into Kerry ; but only looked into it,

    holding his hands out to it, and saying, "I bless all beyond the Eeeks." How

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 92

46. The Lady's Leap on Glena mountain

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    A named spot on or near Glena mountain at Killarney, called 'The Lady's Leap,' was associated with a legend in which a lady leaped and was never afterwards seen upon earth. Boatmen disagreed as to the exact point along the shore that bore the name.

    Read the passage

    " There is ; and some say it is that point, and others say it is this one, just above us, pushing out there through the trees."

    " Do you know the legend? "

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

47. The Lady's Walk along the Lower Lake at Muckross

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    A walk called 'the Lady's Walk' lies immediately under the Muckross Abbey graveyard and runs just above the borders of the Lower Lake for two or three miles. Seats are placed at intervals along the route, offering continually refreshed views of the lake scenery.

    Read the passage

    inaccessible precipices, and the red deer are not to be disturbed with impunity among their fastnesses, into which entrance is very rarely efTected without considerable peril. By the time he returns to the entrance-gate near Cloghreen, the Tourist will thus have driven ten miles — encii'cling a demesne that assuredly cannot have its equal in the dominions of the Queen. But let him not imagine that this drive will show him all he has to see — very far from it. To the most charming of its beauties neither car nor horse can conduct him. Immediately under the Abbey graveyard is a walk called "the Lady's Walk," which leads just above the borders of the Lower Lake. You may follow it on for two or three miles, and you cannot be wearied ; for seats are placed at proper intervals, and the mind will be perpetually refreshed. Above the borders of Tore Lake, also, there is another walk — " the Bock Walk" — of even greater beauty. It extends for nearly two miles, and may indeed be continued to Brickeen Bridge, and so into the island of Dinis. These walks are absolutely delicious. It is impossible for any description to do them justice. Nature formed them ; but Art and Taste have combined to render them perfect. Let the Tourist take especial care that the guide under whose guardianship he visits Mucross leads him to them.*

    At one particular turn we paused ; and as we did so, as if by magic, a glowing rainbow suddenly spanned the lake. It seemed to rise from the slope of a distant hill, and we fancied we could trace its course.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall

48. Cahirciveen and Valencia Harbour connection to the sea

    Cahersiveen · town · Kerry

    Cahirciveen, about two miles from the ferry, connected to the sea through Valencia Harbour, which supplied it with natural advantages that had been little utilised. From Cahirciveen the tourist could take a public or private car to drive to Tralee or Killarney.

    Read the passage

    From an ascent, as we leave the town, we look back on the small island in Valencia Harbour ; it contains one of those singular stone cells, similar to those that are found on the great Skellig, and which are attributed to recluses of the sixth century, with an ancient stone tomb or chapel close by ; while on the north-east side of the harbour stands the ruined Castle of Ballycarberry ; there is here one of those singular forts, that, like Staig Fort, has no history, and concerning which even tradition is silent. It is this harbour — that of Valencia — which connects Cahirciveen with the sea, and supplies it with natui'al advantages of which, unhappily, there have been few to avail themselves. We pursue our route, still by Dingle Bay, until we reach Castlemaine Harbour, which is, in reality, but a continuation of that of Dingle, stretching inland. We gaze over a pretty creek, Rossbegh, where, on the main road, there is a good hotel ; for this is the bathing-place of the district, with its many neat and pretty lodges for the accommodation of visitors. As we pass along we obtain a charming view of a calm and pleasant nook that, nestling among high hills, draws in the milder sea-breezes, and gives them out in health.

    This is the resting-place of those who fish in Lough Carha — a charming lake which we leave to the right in travelling to Killarney. It is environed by hiUs, some

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

49. Foynes harbour on the Shannon route

    Foynes · town · Limerick

    Foynes is noted for its charming and most convenient harbour, serving as a landing point for travellers crossing from Tarbert on the north side of the Shannon to continue by railway to Limerick.

    Read the passage

    But the Tourist, who begins to consider his journey as finished, will, instead of making this visit to the north side of the Shannon, make his way from Tarbert to Foynes, with its charming and most convenient harbour ; from Foynes by railway to Limerick — through Asheaton, Eathkeale, Adare, and Patrick's Well: thence from Limerick to the Junction, through a rich district ; and from Limerick to Waterford, to Cork, or to Dublin.

    ■^'" u

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 109

50. Foynes port on the Shannon

    Foynes · town · Limerick

    A railway connects Limerick to Foynes, a port on the Shannon, from which a good road leads to Tarbert and onwards to Tialee. The text notes reasonably good inns and readily obtainable cars at both places.

    Read the passage

    The immediate environs of Limerick are not picturesque ; the city lies, as we have said, in a spacious plain, the greater portion of which is scarcely above the level of the water ; at short distances, however, there are some of the most interesting ruins in the kingdom, in the midst of scenery of surpassing loveliness. As we have said, there is a railway to Foynes, a port on the Shannon, whence there is a good road to Tarbert, and so on to Tialee.

    We shall describe this route at the close of our book, when we are taking note of the sea-coast accessible from Killarncy. We need only now observe that there are reasonably good inns at both places, and that cars are readily obtained at either.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 42

51. The Mardyke, Cork's oldest promenade

    Mardyke · electoral division · Cork

    The Mardyke is the oldest promenade in Cork, a walk between rows of aged but ungracefully lopped trees. Once lonely and retired, building has surrounded it with houses, and its solitary character — its only recommendation — is gone forever.

    Read the passage

    Promenades in the immediate neighbourhood of Cork are few ; the oldest is the Mardyke, a walk between rows of aged but ungracefully lopped trees. Once it was lonely and retii'ed, but the spirit of building has surrounded it with houses, and its solitary character, its only recommendation — is for ever gone. The new cemetery, however, demands some notice. It was formerly a botanic garden attached to the Cork Institution; but in 1826 was sold to the Very Rev. Theobald Mathew, who converted it to its present use.;}: It is, therefore, perhaps unrivalled in the kingdom.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 16

52. View of the Lakes from Aghadoe hilltop

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    From the top of the hill at Aghadoe, visitors can enjoy a glorious view of the Lakes of Killarney, which most visitors prefer to any other viewpoint within convenient reach.

    Read the passage

    ject of deep interest to all strangers.f Let the Tourist climb to "the top," — the task is not a very difficult one, and see what a glorious view he will have of "the Lakes ; " a view, by the way, which most visitors prefer to any other within conveiiient reach.

    Descending the hill, we continue the road along the northern borders of the lake until we reach the Laune Bridge, from which there is a fine view of the rapid

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 77

53. Ballinskellig Abbey ruins across the bay

    Ballinskelligs · townland · Kerry

    The ruins of Ballinskellig Abbey are visible across the bay from Lough Currane, about six miles distant. The author recommends it as amply repaying a visit.

    Read the passage

    Lough Currane is a charming spot, only partially \roocled, but containing several pretty islands, on one of which is a group of interesting ruins — that of an ancient chapel being still used as a burial-place. It is one of a chain of lakes ; those among the surrounding hills being, we understand, still more beautiful and more productive of sport. If the Tourist look across the bay, he will see the ruins of Ballinskellig Abbey ; it is but six miles distant, and will amply repay a visit.

    We continue our route, and at the end of a few miles come in. sight of Cahirciveen : this is the town of the district, commanding the whole trade of the country within a circuit of nearly forty miles, north, south, and east ; while to the west is the Isla^^d OF Valencia. Yet Cahirciveen is little better than it was thirty years ago — a dull town, that conveys no idea of either activity or prosperity, although its advantages are large and many. It has one object that may interest the Tourist. A mile or so distant is a ruined house, overgrown with ivy, pleasantly situate in a wooded dell beside a river. It is the birthplace of Daniel O'Connell ; and the remains of the room in which he was born are still shown to the curious or patriotic visitor."^'

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

54. Glanmire and Blackrock roads along the Lee

    near Glanmire · town · Cork

    The immediate outlets of Cork are noted for their natural beauties, with the Glanmire road on one side and the Black Rock road on the other side of the River Lee offering charming walks and drives. Villas abound along both roads, and the river with its many objects of interest is always in view.

    Read the passage

    sculptor has been employed to ornament it — occasionally with good taste and effect. The whole of the immediate outlets of Cork possess considerable interest, and their natural beauties are, perhaps, not exceeded by those of any of the kingdom. The Glanmire road on the one side, and the Black Eock road on the other side of the Lee, are charming walks or drives : villas abound all the way ; and the river, with its many objects of interest, is always in view. The most "famous," and certainly the most interesting of the neighbouring localities, is Blaknet — a village about four miles north-west of Cork. Few places in Ireland are more familiar to English ears. This notoriety is attributable, first to the marvellous qualities of its famous "stone," and next, to the extensive popularity of the song —

    " The groves of Blarney, they are so charming."

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 18

55. Grandeur of the Killarney Lakes

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The authors remark on the grandeur and loveliness of the Killarney Lakes, admitting their work only gives a limited idea of them. They also note the wild sea-coasts are easily accessible from the lakes.

    Read the passage

    The Authors are fully aware they have failed in giving to the reader more than a very limited idea of the grandeur and loveliness of The Kilxaeney Lakes, and the wild magTiificence of the sea-coasts so easily accessible from them. They trust, however, they have succeeded in presenting to the Tourist a Companio]!}^ that — accompanying him during the several routes — may supply needful information during his progress, and be a pleasant reminiscence of his Tour, when it is over, and he is seated at home, reviewing his journeyings to the beautiful districts through which he has been travelling.

    The Authors desire to lay continual stress on the advantages that must ensue from intercourse between the two countries — countries so naturally connected, and whose interests must be, while the world lasts, mutual and inseparable.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 2

56. Kildare cathedral and round tower

    Kildare · town · Kildare

    Kildare, though once famous as a city of saints, had dwindled into comparative insignificance. The ruined cathedral retains marks of its original beauty and magnificence, and the round tower, one of the tallest in the kingdom, still attracts attention from antiquaries.

    Read the passage

    Passing the stations of LucAN, Hazlehatch, Stkaffan, Salitxs, and Newbeldge, places of little note and of no interest, the train stops within sight of Kildake. The city, although famous for centuries as a " city renowned for saints," has dwindled into comparative insignificance ; some remains of its ancient grandeur, however, still exist, the ruined

    CLONDALKIN BOUKD-TOWEE.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall

57. Lamb Island on the Lower Lake

    near Lamb Island · townland · Kerry

    Lamb Island is described as a mass of underwood and finely-grown forest trees, contrasting with the barren O'Donoghue's Prison rock nearby.

    Read the passage

    But we have surely stayed too long at Inisfallen — "fair Inisfallen!" — we must away among the other islands. There are few, however, and none of them remarkable. Here is O'Donoghue's Prison, a rock covered with a thick layer of peat, and containing only a single stunted tree ; here, on the other hand, is Lamb Island, a mass of underwood and finely-grown forest trees. Here is the tiny morsel of evergreen called Mouse Island ; the chances are that we shall see a craven cormorant

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 93

58. Macroom town and its ancient castle on the Sullane

    Macroom · town · Cork

    Macroom, twenty-four miles from Cork, is situated on the river Sullane, which rivals the Lee in extent and beauty. Parts of its castle are of very remote antiquity, though it has undergone many changes during civil wars, and the town is entered by a long, narrow bridge.

    Read the passage

    The town of Macroom, twenty-four miles from Cork, is situated on the Sullane — a

    36 A WEEK AT KTLLARNEY.

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

59. The picturesque and noble River Suir

    near River Suir · river · Kilkenny

    The River Suir, praised by Edmund Spenser as the 'gentle Suire', is described as one of Ireland's noblest rivers. It is broad, deep, and highly picturesque as it flows past Clonmel and Waterford.

    Read the passage

    The river Suir — the "gentle Suire" of Spenser —

    " that, making way By sweet Clonmel, adorns rich Waterford " —

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 47

60. The View Rock near the Constabulary Barrack

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    A named viewpoint adjacent to the Constabulary Barrack on the road around the Upper Lake, offering sweeping views over the islands and the Lake Hotel in the distance. The author describes stopping repeatedly to admire the prospect while descending toward the lake shore.

    Read the passage

    the twisting channel — "the Long Eange " — that connects it with its sister kkes ; numbers of small islets are scattered about its surface ; •>' and in the far-oif glimpse of a broad sheet of water — the Lower Lake — we obtain the foretaste of a banquet — abundant, healthful, and delicious. Bat if the Upper Lake — considered as a Lake, merely — is calculated, as we think it is, to disappoint at fii'st, it is grand beyond conception, and certainly far suipasses its more beautiful sisters in the wild maguificence and stern sublimity of j!^ature. From the point we are describing, this peculiar characteristic is not perhaps so striking as it will be when we descend more into the valley. And let us descend : — presently we reach " the Constabulary Barrack," from a spot adjacent to which there is another glorious view. It is called "The Vikw E.0CK." The eye stretches along over the several islands — the Lake Hotel bounding the distance, behind which is a range of hills. We have been watching, from the height, the road that runs past it, and have marvelled how it can convey us down tlie steep : tracing it closely, however, we perceive that it travels round two or three jutting rocks, covered with the richest foliage ; a peep at it may be had every now and then ; at length it is seen, deeply below, skirting the borders of the Lough. AVe shall reach it anon, and he on level ground ; but not until we have made at least a score of pauses, sprung as olten off and on the car, and mounted some tiny hillock to feast upon the prospect once again. We reach the Tunnel at length ; we pass through it, and the mountain is at our back. We shall have to climb no other while the day lasts. Here we are in the centre of Beauty's attractions only ; the road is overhung by huge rocks ; but each of them is richly clothed — some with huge forest trees, others with the lighter and gayer arbutus ; while, at the bases of all, spring up gigantic weeds in marvellous luxuriance, fed perpetually by the clear water that oozes through every crevice, forming here and there miniature cataracts, bearing down tiny pebbles to deposit by the road side. So, on we go — now and then peeping, tluough breaks in the foliage, at the bleak hills opposite, and occasionally crossing a bridge, under which pushes a rapid river. One of them, on its way into the lake, forms the Cascade of Dereicui^nihy ; and this the Tourist must delay to visit. A by-road of about a quarter of a mile leads to it. We soon hear its roar, and ere long mark its foam ascending above the trees. It is beautiful — very beautiful — and its beauty is enhanced by the charming character of the locality in which it is placed. A little rustic bridge crosses the narrow river, and leads to a cultivated garden, where a cottage — Hyde's Cottage — formerly stood. The old cottage is gone, but the liberality of Lord Castlerosse has given to travellers another in its place, where they may "rest and be thankful ;" but the garden remains ; and never have we seen shrubs of finer growth. The rhododendrons have mounted almost into forest trees, and were literally covered with giant blossoms. A tangled path, overshadowed by the arbutus, holly, yew and hazel, leads to the cascade. It is inferior to that of Tore, which we are now approaching ; and we leave it, therefore, undescribed.f

    Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 62