The ancient and present state of the county and city of Cork. : Containing a natural, civil, ecclesiastical, historical, and topographical description thereof.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Skibbereen, anciently Stapletown, a MacCarthy Reagh domain town

   Skibbereen · town · Cork

   Skibbereen was anciently called Stapletown and formed part of the domain of the castle of Gortnaclough, belonging to MacCarthy Reagh. It is described as a small market town on the river Hen with a stone bridge, a newly-erected church, a market-house, and an active clothing and linen trade.

   Read the passage

   Skibbereen, anciently called Stapletown ; it was formerly a part of the domain of the castle of Gortnaclough, which belonged to MacCarty Reagh ; this castle has been some time entirely demolished, as is also Littertinlis, another of MacCarthy's castles, east of this place. Skibbereen is a small market town, where the collector, surveyor, and other officers ^*7) of the port of Baltimore reside. On the west side of the river is a newly-erected church, and in the town a decent market-house. The river Hen runs through the place, over which there is a stone bridge, but so low as to be sometimes overflown by floods-; boats at high water row down to Baltimore. The clothing trade is followed in this place ; they have also some share of the linen manufactory, particularly for striped linens and handkerchiefs, and a good weekly market Near the town the lands are well cultivated, affording good quantities of com and flax. They manure with sea-sand, the soil being a grey clay, and in some places red with a slaty bottom. They have no limestone nearer than Muskery. West of Skibbereen is Abbey-Shrowry, formerly a religious house, but now the ruins of a parish church. In it are several old tombs, and in particular a large one of the Roches.

   (16) Council Books.

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 143

2. Thomas Adderly rebuilds Inishannon as a linen manufacturing town

   Innishannon · town · Cork · 1748–1749

   Inishannon had remained a poor decayed village until Thomas Adderly, esq., began rebuilding it within the preceding three years, erecting slate houses for linen manufacturers with a bleach-yard. Between February 1748 and November 1749, over 13,886 yards of linen were manufactured and bleached there, with 66 looms kept employed.

   Read the passage

   six miles from Kinsale. The river is navigable to Collier's Quay, half a mile below the place. On the west side of the town is a fair stone bridge. It was formerly walled and a place of some note, as appears by the foundations of several castles and large buildings discovered in it ; but, notwithstanding its excellent situation on a navigable river and very fruitful country, it continued to be a poor decayed village until within these three years that it began to be rebuilt by Thomas Adderly, esq., who has erected a range of decent slate houses for linen manufacturers, with a bleach-yard and other conveniencies ; and so well has the design flourished, by the indulgence and encouragement of that worthy gentleman, that, although this business is but in its infancy, there were manufactured and bleached at Inishannon, from the ist of February, 1748, to the 1st of November, 1749, 422 pieces of sundry kinds of linen, sheetings, diapers, etc., containing 13,886 yards, besides 240 pieces that came to be bleached from the neighbourhood, the water being found to be most excellent for that purpose ; and from the isth of August, 1749, to the 23rd of December, 1749, there were 318 pieces more manufactured here, containing 12,229 yards, besides 59 pieces then in the looms, of which there are erected, for linen and sheeting, 59 ; also, two broad diaper looms and one narrow, besides four for weaving canvas, being 66 in all, belonging to the factory, and kept employed by Mr. Adderly. He caused all the cloth that was made in this town to be carefully viewed by several gentlemen and dealers in linen ; who have certified that for goodness, breadth, strength, and colour, the linen made here equals any other manufactured in Ireland.

   Charter-School What will also much contribute to the establishment

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 115

3. William Gibson's death at Waterford bridge

   Waterford · city · Waterford

   William Gibson, a celebrated guitar maker who installed the organ at St Peter's Church in Cork, was killed while erecting the portcullis of the new bridge at Waterford.

   Read the passage

   " The organ at St. Peter's, put up by William Gibson, who was killed while erecting " the portcullis of the new bridge at Waterford. Gibson was a celebrated guitar maker, " and is believed to have been the inventor of the celestine stop on the harpsichord."

   Page 377. St Nicholas, In the churchyard of St Nicholas there are two ancient gravestones, which have, no doubt, been removed from some neighbouring burying-place, probably that of " The Red Abbey." Both of these stones have a cross ornamented fleury^ with an inscription round the edge of the stone, in relief. The back of one of these stones has an inscription of recent date upon it They are both in the north side of the church.

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 232

4. Capture of the Sugan Earl in Sleve-grot wood

   Condons and Clangibbon · barony · Cork · 1598–1603

   Towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, the White Knight captured the Sugan Earl of Desmond in the wood of Sleve-grot, located in Clangibbon. For this capture, the Queen awarded the White Knight a thousand pounds.

   Read the passage

   Waterpark is at present the estate of Sir Henry Cavendish, bart It was in a part of Clangibbon, in the wood of SHeve-grot, that the White Knight, towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, took the Sugan Earl of Desmond prisoner, for which the queen gave him a thousand pounds.

   to turn sour, take what quantity you please, and put it into a. still, with a few raisin stalks, and a little bay salt, to keep down the phlegm ; draw off a weak vinous liquor, which suffer to lie a few days, then commit it to the still, with the aforesaid ingredients, and draw off a proof spirit ; this spirit highly mends weak cider. Four gallons, with two of syrup made of sugar and water, (two parts of the former to one of the latter, being dissolved over the fire, to the consistence of a syrup) is sufficient for a hogshead. But if six gallons of spirit and three of syrup be added, it will be a strong wine ; which, upon bottling, will emulate canary, if two or three spoonfuls of spirit of clary, with a small lump of loaf sugar, be added to each bottle ; for this spirit, as EtmuUer observes, has a strong citron flavour, very sharp and penetrating, exactly resembling sack in taste and smell. The spirit is thus made : — Take the leaves of clary, fresh gathered, cut small or bruised, two pounds ; brandy, three quarts ; draw off the spirit in an alembic, pour this spirit on the same quantity of clary, which infuse for a night in the still, well luted, then with a slow fire draw off the spirit. It may not be amiss to observe, that none of our made wines come so near to French claret as the fermented nice of blackberries, with sugar, prepared in the common manner of made wines, and improved by a cider spirit ; hence I conclude, that several wines might be prepared from our own vegetable juices as rich and well flavoured as those we import.

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 181

   As the companion tells it

   As you travel through the barony of Condons and Clangibbon in Cork, this is the country where a notable capture took place. Towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, in a part of Clangibbon called the wood of Sleve-grot, the White Knight took the Sugan Earl of Desmond prisoner. For this capture, Queen Elizabeth gave the White Knight a thousand pounds. The Sugan Earl was the claimant to the Desmond title, and his seizure in this wooded country marked the end of his challenge. The reward of a thousand pounds shows what that capture meant to the crown at the close of Elizabeth's reign, a period running from 1598 to 1603. Waterpark, which is now the estate of Sir Henry Cavendish, baronet, stands in this same part of Clangibbon, connecting the present landscape to the ground where the White Knight carried out his capture.

5. Derrick's 1762 account of Passage conditions

   Passage West · town · Cork · 1762

   Samuel Derrick described Passage in 1762 as having few houses and a very indifferent inn. Ships unloaded there and cargoes were carried to Cork by small cars or small vessels, as the channel above admitted only 150-ton ships.

   Read the passage

   " From Cove we were rowed up to Passage in a fishing-boat, the owner of which " demanded a crown, but was satisfied with a shilling. Here all ships unlade, and " their cargoes are carried up to Cork, either on small cars drawn by one horse, or in " vessels of small size, the channel higher up admitting only those of one hundred and " fifty tons burden. There are but few houses at Passage, one of which is a very "indifferent inn, where we were forced to take up our quarters for the night. We " were provided with an elegant supper of turbot and red gurnet, not badly dressed, and " received a bill in the morning, which we thought was reasonable. Our attendant " was a fine fat old woman, but lame, and blind of an eye ; her face half covered with " dirt, half with snuff, her arms, hands, legs and feet (for she had neither shoes nor "stockings on\ not a jot more decent. She was, however, patriotic and a person " of taste, who despised us because she supposed us English. She told us she had " seen Alexander acted in Cork the night before, for she went often to the play, and *' that the man who played it was Mr. Barry, an Irish gentleman, that beat all the " actors England ever produced. But she heard she had a namesake in Mr. Foote. in " the same way of business in London, who was a fine actor, and if he would come to " Cork, she would make him very drunk and give him a hearty welcome."

   In a foot note (page 151). Ballymacshane-Roe Q' tHe town of the son of Red John "), Caulfield has the following : —

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 89

6. Bishop Lyon's mansion at Ross burned by O'Donovan

   near Ross · parish · Cork · 1586–1589

   Bishop Lyon built a mansion-house at Ross costing £300, which was burned down by the rebel O'Donovan within little more than three years. Meanwhile the See-house at Cloyne was held from him by Sir John Fitz-Edmond Fitz-Gerald.

   Read the passage

   The tide of the Reformation may now be considered as having £urly set in. William Lyon, a native of Chester, and chaplain to Arthur Lord Grey, Lord Deputy of Ireland, was consecrated Bishop of Ross in 1582, and the following year received the Sees of Cork and Ross in com^ mendam fcpm Queen Elizabeth, to hold during her Majesty's pleasure. His ecclesiastical preferments previous to his consecration were, the vicarage of Naas, which he obtained by patent dated November 6th, 1573, with a dispensation to hold the same with any other benefice during his life, and licence to reside in England. On July 23rd, 1580, he also obtained the vicarage of Bandanston, county Kildare, from the Queen, who by letters-patent, dated May 17th, 1 586, annexed and incorporated the See of Ross to those of Cork and Cloyne, the two former Sees having remained united ever since. Bishop Lyon took a very prominent part in the affiiirs of Munster at this period ; he was appointed one of the commissioners to concert and adopt means for the peopling of Munster with English inhabitants. He rebuilt the palace at Cork, on which he expended ;f 1,000. Many particulars of his liberality and public spirit appear in a regal visitation in 1 6 13, preserved in the Prerogative Office, where it is said that when he received those bishoprics he raised their value from £^0 to ;f 200 per annum ; that he built a mansion-house at Ross, which cost him ;f 300, which in little more than three years was burned down by the rebel O'Donovan, while the See-house at Cloyne was held from him by Sir John Fitz-Edmond Fitz-Gerald. In ArcMishop BramhalVs Life it appears how greatly the other bishoprics of the province of Munster suffered at the time of the Reformation. '* The Romish prelates resolved to make what they could, and their Protestant successors feared another change, but that Cork and Ross fared better than any other bishopric in that province, a very gcxxl man. Bishop Lyon, being placed their early in the Reformation." He died at Cork at a very advanced age, on the 4th of October, 16 17, and was buried, not, as was generally supposed, in the cathedral, but in a small church that formerly stood near the palace, and was used as a private chapel for the Bishop of Cork. The building was a ruin for over fifty years.

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 250

   As the companion tells it

   As the road takes you through the parish of Ross in Cork, this is the ground where Bishop William Lyon built a mansion-house at a cost of £300. Lyon was a native of Chester and chaplain to Arthur Lord Grey, the Lord Deputy of Ireland. He was consecrated Bishop of Ross in 1582, and the following year Queen Elizabeth gave him the Sees of Cork and Ross in commendam. By letters-patent dated May 17th, 1586, she annexed and incorporated the See of Ross to those of Cork and Cloyne. Lyon took a prominent part in the affairs of Munster. He was appointed one of the commissioners to concert and adopt means for the peopling of Munster with English inhabitants. He rebuilt the palace at Cork, spending £1,000 on it. At Ross he built his mansion-house for £300, but in little more than three years it was burned down by the rebel O'Donovan. While his house at Ross lay in ashes, the See-house at Cloyne was held from him by Sir John Fitz-Edmond Fitz-Gerald. A regal visitation recorded that when Lyon received those bishoprics he raised their value to £200 per annum. It praised his liberality and public spirit. Cork and Ross were said to have fared better than any other bishopric in the province of Munster during the Reformation, a very good man, Bishop Lyon, being placed there early.

7. Camden's description of Cork in Queen Elizabeth's time

   Cork · city · Cork · 1558–1603

   Camden described Cork in Elizabeth's time as an oval-formed, walled town encompassed by the river channel, accessible only by bridges. It was a populous trading town but so beset by rebel enemies that citizens kept constant watch and dared not marry their daughters into the country, contracting only among themselves.

   Read the passage

   (4) This city is very different from what it was when Camden described it, in Queen Elizabeth's time : — " It is," says he " of an oval form, inclosed with walls, and encompassed with the channel of the river, which also crosses it, and is not accessible but by bridges lying along, as it were, in one direct street, with a bridge over it. It is a populous little trading town and much resorted to ; but so beset with rebel enemies on all sides that they are obliged to keep constant watch, as if the town was continually besieged, and dare not marry out their daughters into the country, but contract one

   368 THE ANCIENT AND PRESENT STATE OF

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 207

   As the companion tells it

   Cork in Elizabeth's time was nothing like the city you pass now. Camden described it as oval, walled, and encompassed by the river channel, which also crossed through it. You could only get in by bridges. It lay, as he said, along one direct street with a bridge over it. It was a populous little trading town, much resorted to. But rebel enemies surrounded it on all sides. The citizens kept constant watch, as if the town were continually besieged. They dared not marry their daughters into the country, but contracted only among themselves.

8. Carnew garrison defeats rebels at Ballinrush and Kilthomas Hill

   Carnew · town · Wicklow · 1798

   On 27th May, the garrison of Carnew—militia, yeoman infantry, and Shillela cavalry under Captain Wainwright—marched out and defeated a body of rebels at Ballinrush and Kilthomas Hill in county Wexford.

   Read the passage

   27th May. The garrison of Carnew, consisting of some militia, two corps of yeoman infantry and the Shillela cavalry under Captain Wainwright, marched out and defeated a body of rebels at Ballinrush and Kilthomas Hill, county Wexford.

   28th May. Gallant defence of Enniscorthy by a part of the North Cork Militia, with the Enniscorthy Infantry (Captain Pounden), Scarawalsh Infantry (Captain Cornock), and Enniscorthy Cavalry (Captain Richards), 331 against 5,000 rebels. The Royalists evacuated the town after repulse of the enemy, who lost about 500 men. Of the garrison 88 were killed and wounded.

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 285

9. Castlemartyr castle built by Carews, ruined in late wars

   Castlemartyr · townland · Cork

   A castle at Castlemartyr, first built by the Carews, belonged to the Seneschals of Imokilly and afterwards to the Earl of Orrery. It was ruined in the late wars, when Captain Henry Boyle placed it under General Mac Carty's protection but it was nevertheless destroyed.

   Read the passage

   There is also a spinning-school here, for the encouragement of the linen manufacture. This is a neat small town, well watered and situated for this manufacture. Its chief beauty consists in the seat and improvements of His Excellency Henry Boyle, esq., lord of the soil. Adjacent' to his house is a castle (first built by the Carews) that belonged to the Seneschals of Imokilly, and afterwards to the Earl of Orrery, but ruined in the late wars.^'s) Opposite the house is a large beautiful canal, which forms a vista to that side of the country, through a venerable grove of lofty trees. To the south of the house are the gardens, with fine plantations of elms, chestnut, and other forest trees of a large growth. The artificial river made by his excellency, which surrounds his domain, as well as the town of Castlemartyr, is one of the greatest undertakings of this kind in Ireland. It is regularly banked and its sides adorned with fine plantations, and winds in a serpentine manner, being broad and deep enough for a handsome boat to row round it ; at the east end of the town it is broken into several cascades, and is a great ornament to this part of the country. On this river —

   . The stately sailing swan Gives out its snowy plumage to the gale, And arching proud his neck, with oary feet Bears forward fierce, and guards his osier isle, Protective of his young. — Thomson,

   Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 58

10. Death of Sir John Norris at Mallow

    Mallow · town · Cork · 1597

    Sir John Norris, knight and lord president of Munster, died on 3 September 1597 at his brother Sir Thomas Norice's house in the town of Mallow. He had spent 26 years in service against the Queen's enemies in the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, France, Britain, and Ireland.

    Read the passage

    "He died, the 3rd day of September, 1597, at his brother Sir Thomas Norie'sO) " house in the towne of Mayallo, in the province of Munster, within the Kingdoine of " Ireland, at the Jo yeare of his age, having spent 26 of them [being the most flourish- " log time of his life] in her Majesties service against her enemies in the Netherlands, "Spayne, Portugail, France, Britain and Ireland."

    "[From a true discourse, historicall, of the succeeding governors of the Netherlands, " and the civili warres there begun in the year 1 565, with the memorable services of " our Honourable English Generals, Captains and Souldiers, especially under Sir John " Norice, knight, there performed from the yeare 1 577 until! the yeare 1 589, and after- "wards in Pcrtugale, France, Britaine and Ireland, nntill the yeare 1598, translated "and collected by T. C, esquire,{') and Ric. Ro., etc., at London; imprinted for " Mathew Lownes, and are to be sold in his shop under S. Dunstao's Church in the "West, 1602].

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 183

11. Disturbance of Deane tombs at St Peter's Church

    Cork · city · Cork · 1782

    During the rebuilding of St Peter's Church in Cork in 1782, the bodies of Sir Matthew and Lady Deane were thrown out of their coffins and the leaden cases were carted off and sold.

    Read the passage

    *' Richard Sainthill (numismatist), told me that he heard from old Fitzgerald, author •* of the Cork Remembrancer^ that when St. Peter's was re-built in 1782, the bodies of '' Sir Mat hew and Lady Deane were thrown out of their coffins, and the leaden cases, " with many others, carted off and sold. He was an eye-witness."

    Croker states that —

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 232

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the city holds a story from St Peter's Church. In 1782, during the rebuilding of that church, the bodies of Sir Matthew and Lady Deane were thrown out of their coffins. Their leaden cases were carted off and sold.

12. Dragoons quartered at Flowerhill during Ribbonmen troubles (1821)

    Doneraile · townland · Cork · 1821

    Captain John Grove White of Kilbyrne and Flowerhill, Doneraile, had served in India with the 36th Regiment and was wounded at the siege of Cannanore in 1783 before joining the yeomanry. During the Ribbonmen disturbances of 1821, a troop of dragoons was quartered at his residence, Flowerhill.

    Read the passage

    Mallow) or Doneraile (»3) Capt. John Grove White, of Kilburne (Kilbyrne) and Flowerhill, Doneraile, j.P. and Deputy Governor for county Cork, joined the army in 1781, and proceeded to Southern India, where he saw a great deal of active service against Tippoo Sahib. Present with 36th Regt. at the siege and capture of Cannanore, DeCi 1783, when he was wounded in the left knee. He commanded an advanced party of 36 men ; they were all killed or desperately wounded except a sergeant and a private. Retired on half-pay 1792. The sword he used when in the Doneraile Yeomanry Cavalry is at Kilbyrne. At the time of the Ribbonraen, 1821, a troop of dragoons was quartered at Flowerhill.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 294

13. Father O'Mahony's hermitage on Gougane Barra island

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork · 1700–1728

    On the island at Gougane Barra stand the ruins of a chapel, small cells, sacristy, chamber, and kitchen erected by Father O'Mahony, who lived as a hermit there for twenty-eight years. He also converted part of the island into a garden with fruit trees planted by his own hands.

    Read the passage

    the top of the mountain, tumbh'ng down all around in several cataracts, with a roaring noise like thunder, which makes a most awful and majestic scene. On the top of these precipices, eagles, hawks, and other birds of prey breed and live in great security. This place, since the time of St Finbar, has been frequented by many devotees as a place of pilgrimage ; and to get to it is little less than to perform one. In the island are the ruins of a chapel with some small cells, a sacristy, chamber, kitchen, and other conveniences, erected by a late recluse (Father O'Mahony), who lived a hermit in this dreary spot twenty-eight years. When one is in this island, the chasm in the mountain, by which the lake is entered, is not seen, occasioned by the jutting out of part of the hill ; so that if a person was carried into it blindfold, it would seem almost impossible, without the wings of an eagle, to get out, the mountains making as it were a wall of rocks some hundred yards high. Round part of the lake is a pleasant green bank, with a narrow causeway from it to the island. That part of the island unbuilt upon Father O'Mahony converted into a garden, planted several fruit trees in it with his own hands, and made it a luxurious spot for a hermit. Opposite to this island, on the continent, is his tomb, placed in a low little house, on which is this inscription : —

    " Hoc sibi et successoribus suis in eadem vocatione, monumentum imposuit " dominus Doctor Dyonisius O'Mahony, presbyter licet indignus. An. dom. 1700."

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 100

14. Foundation of Holycross Abbey

    Holycross · townland · Tipperary · 1169

    The church and monastery of Holycross in County Tipperary was erected in 1169 by King Donald O'Brien of Limerick to house a relic of the Holy Cross presented to him.

    Read the passage

    <»o) Here is deposited the relic of the Holy Cross, which in the twelfth century was presented to Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick, who erected for its reception in 11 69 the church and monastery of Holycross, county Tipperary, where it remained till 1535, when it was rescued by the Ormonde family. In 1691, James, second Duke of Ormonde, gave it to Mr. Val Smith of Carrick, who gave it to Mrs. Butler of Kilcash. She bequeathed it to Mrs. Margaret Kavanagh, who presented it in 1801 to the Right Rev. Dr. Moylan, Roman Catholic Bishop of Cork.

    <") 7th June, 1831, I saw Miss Hogan take the veil there. — T. C. C.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 234

15. John Silver's almshouse bequest mismanaged in Youghal

    Youghal · town · Cork

    John Silver bequeathed £77 to the poor of Youghal. Bishop Henry Maule used part of it to build walls for an almshouse but only carried it one story high; the remainder of the money was unaccounted for.

    Read the passage

    " Sume of £yy bequeathed by John Silver, Esq., to the poor. Dr. Henry Maule, " present Bishop of Meath, laid out part of it in walls for an almshouse, but carried " it no higher than one story. What became of the remainder of the money God knows. ** Some people may in time know, when they get to another world."

    •• In 1725. The mayor, Thomas Knight, took away the brass sundial that was on " the quay, and turned it to his own use."

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 48

16. Kilcrea Abbey granted to Charles Mac Carty

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1614–1616

    In 1614, Lord Deputy Sir Arthur Chichester granted the care of Kilcrea Abbey to Charles Mac Dermot Mac Carty, Lord of Muskery, on the condition that he prevent friars from living there and admit only English Protestant tenants. He was buried there in 1616.

    Read the passage

    Ann. 1614, Sir Arthur Chichester, lord deputy, committed the care of this abbey to Charles Mac Dermot Mac Carty, Lord of Muskery, who was a Protestant, upon condition that he should not permit the friars to live in it, and that none but English Protestants should be admitted as tenants to the lands. This lord ^35) was buried here, ann. 1616. A great part of the building still remains, among which is the nave and choir of the church. On the S. side of the former is a handsome arcade of three Gothic arches, supported by marble columns thicker than those of the Tuscan order. This arcade continues to form one side of a chapel, being a cross aisle. In the choir are some old tombs, several of the Lords Clancarty being here interred,(36) as were the Barretts and other principal persons of the country, who always opposed the entire demolishing of this pile. The steeple is a light building, about eighty feet high, placed between the nave and choir ; it is still entire, and supported by Gothic arches. There is something very awful and solemn when one enters these reverend piles, once erected for the uses of religion. Long sounding aisles, intermingled with graves and human bones, the twilight vaults, the caverns piled with skulls, and the gloomy darkness, occasioned by the height of the walls, overgrown with shrubs and ivy, so sadden all the scene, that he must be a person who never reflects at all, if he thinks not of futurity on entering (as Mr. Pope says)

    In those deep solitudes and awful cells, Where heav'nly pensive contemplation dwells, And ever musing melancholy reigns.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 102

17. Kilcrea Abbey tombs of Lords Clancarty

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    The choir of Kilcrea Abbey contains old tombs where several Lords Clancarty were interred, alongside the Barretts and other principal local figures. These families opposed the complete demolition of the abbey ruins.

    Read the passage

    Ann. 1614, Sir Arthur Chichester, lord deputy, committed the care of this abbey to Charles Mac Dermot Mac Carty, Lord of Muskery, who was a Protestant, upon condition that he should not permit the friars to live in it, and that none but English Protestants should be admitted as tenants to the lands. This lord ^35) was buried here, ann. 1616. A great part of the building still remains, among which is the nave and choir of the church. On the S. side of the former is a handsome arcade of three Gothic arches, supported by marble columns thicker than those of the Tuscan order. This arcade continues to form one side of a chapel, being a cross aisle. In the choir are some old tombs, several of the Lords Clancarty being here interred,(36) as were the Barretts and other principal persons of the country, who always opposed the entire demolishing of this pile. The steeple is a light building, about eighty feet high, placed between the nave and choir ; it is still entire, and supported by Gothic arches. There is something very awful and solemn when one enters these reverend piles, once erected for the uses of religion. Long sounding aisles, intermingled with graves and human bones, the twilight vaults, the caverns piled with skulls, and the gloomy darkness, occasioned by the height of the walls, overgrown with shrubs and ivy, so sadden all the scene, that he must be a person who never reflects at all, if he thinks not of futurity on entering (as Mr. Pope says)

    In those deep solitudes and awful cells, Where heav'nly pensive contemplation dwells, And ever musing melancholy reigns.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 102

18. Knockniclashy: Broghill defeats Lord Muskery 1651

    Knocknasculloge · hill or hills · Tipperary · 1651

    The hill called Knockniclashy was celebrated for a defeat given to Donough, then Lord Muskery, who with 4,000 Irish was marching to raise the siege of Limerick, by the Lord Broghill with 1,000 English, in July 1651.

    Read the passage

    Clonmene. ^j^^ parish church ; and more east are the remains of the castle of Clonmene, ruined in the wars of 164 1. At Clonmene was anciently, according to Colgan, a monastery of Austin friars, founded by the O'Callaghans. After the wars Sir Richard Kyrle <3) settled at this place. He erected ironworks near it, cut down a vast tract of wood in this neighbourhood, and considerably improved the country. When the French threatened to invade the kingdom in 1666, this Sir Richard Kyrle offered Lord Orrery ^<> to raise a troop of sixty horse, of which his lordship informed the Duke of Ormond, and says the world had no better men than Sir Richard had, and that he knew him to be an excellent officer.^) This estate Sir Richard Kyrle sold to Richard Newman, esq.<^> The mountains here, that were formerly covered with wood, are now generally reclaimed ; but, where the land was bare of trees, it is, for the most part, become boggy and unprofitable. Beneath the turfy sod is a blueish, hard, cold gravel, scarce to be penetrated without much labour. Not far from Clonmene is the hill called Knockniclashy, celebrated for a defeat given to Donough, then Lord Muskery, who, with 4,000 Irish, was marching to raise the siege of Limerick, by the Lord Broghill, with 1,000 English, in July, 1651.

    ^ , ^ About two miles to the north of Clonmene is Castle

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 160

19. Mallow spa and warm springs

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Near Mallow castle is a fine spring of moderately tepid water bursting from a limestone rock, approaching the qualities of Bristol's Hot Well waters. The spa attracted good company during summer months, with pleasant walks, canals, cascades, music, and a long room for assemblies and dancing.

    Read the passage

    This town was once reckoned to be the best village in Ireland, and though not incorporated till anno 1688, when a charter was granted it by the late King James, dated August 29, appointing David Miagh provost, with twenty-six burgesses, which charter was used but a short time ; yet it has the privilege of sending two burgesses to parliament It is pleasantly situated on the north bank of the Blackwater, over which thet-e is an excellent stone bridge ^5)^ whereby it is made a great thoroughfare. Not far from the castle is a fine spring of a moderately tepid water, which bursts out of the bottom of a great limestone rock, and approaches the nearest, in all its qualities, to the Hot Well waters of Bristol, of any that has been discovered in this kingdom. Here is generally a resort of good company during the summer months, both for pleasure and the benefit of drinking the waters ; of the virtues of which I shall say more in another part of this work. Near the Spa there are pleasant walks, agreeably planted ; and on each side are canals and cascades for the amusement and exercise of the company, who have music on these walks. There is also a long room where assemblies are held for dancing, card playing, etc. Adjoining to the well is a kind of grotto, on which the following lines were written, and printed in the public papers when it was first erected : —

    Joint work of judgment, fancy, taste and art,

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 174

20. Night alarm in Cork city, March 1798

    Cork · city · Cork · 1798

    On the night of 17 March 1798, an alarm took place in Cork; the entire garrison was alerted. The Loyal Cork Legion patrolled the city and its neighbourhood under Lord Donoughmore.

    Read the passage

    At this period the yeomanry were prepared to turn out at a moment's notice. An alarm took place in Cork on the night of 17th March ; the whole garrison were on the alert. Alarm-posls were assigned to the yeomanry, and very strong patrols of cavalry and infantry of the Loyal Cork Legion patrolled the whole city and its neighbourhood under command of Lord Donoughmore. — 5. N, L., 24 Mar., 1798.

    On 30th March the Lord Lieutenant proclaimed that a traitorous conspiracy existed in certain counties, amongst which Cork county was mentioned, and he directed the officers commanding H.M. Forces to employ them with the utmost rigour and decision for the immediate suppression thereof. — 5. N. Z., 2 Ap., 1798.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 283

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Cork now, the city where, on the night of 17 March 1798, an alarm went through the streets. The whole garrison came to alert. The yeomanry were already prepared to turn out at a moment's notice, and alarm-posts had been assigned to them. Strong patrols of cavalry and infantry from the Loyal Cork Legion moved through the whole city and its neighbourhood, under the command of Lord Donoughmore. Less than two weeks later, on 30 March, the Lord Lieutenant proclaimed that a traitorous conspiracy existed in certain counties, and Cork county was named among them. He directed the officers commanding His Majesty's forces to employ them with the utmost rigour and decision for the immediate suppression of it.

21. Passage as bathing resort and ship-repair town, 1819

    Passage West · town · Cork · 1819

    By 1819, Passage had an inn, hotel, and newsroom, and was much frequented in summer by Cork inhabitants for salt-water bathing. The principal trade was vessel repairing; timber ships from Sweden and Northern Powers stopped to unload. A church, Catholic chapel, and glebe-house had been built.

    Read the passage

    " 1 819. — There is an inn, a hotel, and a newsroom in Passage. The town is much " frequented in the summer by the inhabitants of Cork for the benefit of salt-water "bathing. It stands an Irish mile in length, along the shore. The principal trade " carried on in the town is the repairing of vessels, of which a good number in the " year come hither for that purpose. Timber ships from Sweden and the Northern *' Powers always stop and unload at Passage, and many merchant ships belonging to " Cork also take in their cargoes and discharge there. There is a church at Passage "about ninety-eight years built; a Catholic chapel built about fifteen years ago; a "glebe of seven acres, on which are the remains of an old church, and a glebe-house " built last year (1820) by the curate, where he now resides, for the building of which " the Board of First Fruits granted him £soo"

    " By the Passage road, according to O'Driscoll {Hist, Ireland) Marlborough's troops " approached Cork in 1690. The London Gazette^ No. 2,598, says on the 23rd Sept. the " army landed * at the Passage,' "

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 127

22. Poor badges and beggar expulsion at Christ Church parish

    Cork · city · Cork · 1721

    In November 1721, Christ Church parish ordered that the poor wear badges and appointed two men to drive strolling beggars out of the parish. The appointees received half a crown per quarter and a livery from poor money.

    Read the passage

    "6 Nov., 1721. — That the font in the church be immediately finished according to the minister's directions, and that a ladder or step be made for the branch. That the poor of the parish wear badges, and that two be appointed to drive stroaling beggars out of the parish ; that half a crown a quarter be allowed each of them by the church wardens, and a proper livery bought for them out of the poor money."

    Orders were made in 1725 and 1726 as to repairing the south-west

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 241

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this city holds a parish order from the 6th of November 1721. Christ Church parish ordered that the poor of the parish wear badges. Two men were appointed to drive strolling beggars out of the parish. Each was allowed half a crown a quarter by the church wardens, and a proper livery bought for them out of the poor money. The same order directed the font in the church be finished and a ladder made for the branch.

23. Rocky Island powder magazine excavation

    near Rocky Island · townland · Cork · 1810

    In 1810 Rocky Island was excavated for a powder magazine to within three and a half feet above high water mark. The two chambers were divided by a solid wall of rock to prevent double explosion; the magazine could contain 20,000 barrels of powder, and a look-out house with a revolving light was built on top.

    Read the passage

    " In 1 8 10 it was excavated for a powder magazine to within 3 J feet above high water " mark. The two chambers of which the magazine consisted were divided by a section ** of the island or solid wall of rock to prevent the danger of a double explosion in case " of accident. On the top of this wall was built a look-out house, in which it was '• intended a revolving light should be placed, to be wound up every quarter of an hour " by the watchman, which, if he neglected, the sentry on Spike Island would see that " he was not attending to his duty. The magazine was capable of containing 20,000 •• barrels of powder.

    ** On Haulbowline Island naval and ordnance works have been constructed between

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 85

24. Ross-Alithri: ancient university and walled town

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork

    Ross Carbery, formerly called Ross-Alithri or 'the wood of pilgrimage,' was granted by Fitz-Stephen and Cogan to Adam Roche. According to Hanmer's Chronicle, the town was walled by a local lady, and anciently contained a famous university to which the south-western part of Ireland resorted for learning; St. Brendan was said to be a reader there.

    Read the passage

    " That there was in it, anciently, a famous university, whereto resorted all the *' south-western part of Ireland for learning sake.*'

    In this school St. Brendan was reader. It may not be amiss to observe that it was an Irish professor who first opened the public schools at Oxford, which shows how famous this island hath been in ancient times for learning, and at this day it does not seem to have a better chance for being considerable. Cambden observes that the Saxons flocked to Ireland as to a great mart of learning, which is the reason, says he, why we so often find this in our writers : such a one has sent his son over to Ireland to be educated.<^> It is now a small market town and bishop's

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 139

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Ross Carbery. Once called Ross-Alithri, the wood of pilgrimage. Fitz-Stephen and Cogan granted it to Adam Roche, and Hanmer's Chronicle says a local lady walled the town. Anciently it held a famous university, to which all the south-western part of Ireland resorted for learning's sake. St. Brendan was reader in that school. It was an Irish professor who first opened the public schools at Oxford, which shows how famous this island was in ancient times for learning. Cambden observed that the Saxons flocked to Ireland as to a great mart of learning, which is why, he said, our writers so often note that such a one has sent his son over to Ireland to be educated. Now it is a small market town and bishop's.

25. St. Stephen's Hospital (Blue Coat) founded in Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1699

    In 1699, William Worth granted the Spittle Lands and lands of east and west Ballymoght and Cahirgall to maintain a school for boys near St. Stephen's Chapel in the south suburbs of Cork. By the time of writing, forty children were provided for with food, raiment, and schooling, and bound apprentice when of competent age. The building stood on a rising ground in the south-east suburb with a lantern and bell on top.

    Read the passage

    September 2, 1699, an indenture passed between William Worth, of the city of Dublin, esq., and William Goddard, of the city of Cork, merchant and mayor of the staple, that the said William Worth, out of a pious intent, that a convenient house should be built in the south suburbs of the city of Cork, near St. Stephen's chapel, to educate and maintain a certain number of boys forever, with a maintenance for a schoolmaster, in consideration of the sum of 5s. sterling paid to the mayor and constables of the staple. He, the said William, grants to them and their successors, all the Spittle Lands, with those of east and west Ballymoght and Cahirgall, at the yearly rent of ;^2o sterling, which sum is to be distributed among four students of Trinity College, Dublin, to be natives of the city or county of the city of Cork; or, for want of such, to be natives of the county of Cork ; and for want of such, to other natives of this kingdom, to be chosen by the lord bishop of Cork, and the mayor of Cork, the heirs of the said William Worth, and the provost of the College, all for the time being ; the heir of the said Worth to be always one of any three of them. • That a convenient house be erected for the accommodation of the said boys, and for a master, who is to instruct them in reading, writing, and arithmetic. The mayor and common council to

    380 THE ANCIENT AND PRESENT STATE OF

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 212

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this city holds the story of St. Stephen's Hospital, a school for boys founded in 1699. On September 2 of that year, an indenture passed between William Worth of Dublin and William Goddard, merchant and mayor of the staple of Cork. Worth acted out of a pious intent that a convenient house should be built in the south suburbs of the city, near St. Stephen's chapel, to educate and maintain a certain number of boys forever, with a maintenance for a schoolmaster. For the consideration of 5 shillings sterling paid to the mayor and constables of the staple, Worth granted the Spittle Lands, with those of east and west Ballymoght and Cahirgall. The yearly rent of 20 sterling was to be distributed among four students of Trinity College Dublin, to be natives of the city or county of the city of Cork, or for want of such, natives of the county of Cork, or other natives of the kingdom. They were to be chosen by the lord bishop of Cork, the mayor of Cork, the heirs of William Worth, and the provost of the College, with Worth's heir always to be one of any three of them. A house was erected for the boys and a master, who instructed them in reading, writing, and arithmetic. By the time of writing, forty children were provided for with food, raiment, and schooling, and bound apprentice when of competent age. The building stood on a rising ground in the south-east suburb, with a lantern and bell on top.

26. 1553 mortgage dispute over Wadingstowne on Little Island

    near Little Island · townland · Cork · 1553

    A manuscript from the Roche papers records a 1553 agreement whereby William Fitz David McGerod wrongfully detained Wallinge (Wadingstowne) on Little Island from Christopher Lombard, who held it in mortgage for sixteen marks. Lord Barrymore Edmond intervened, enlarging McGerod's imprisoned servants on condition that McGerod inhabit the land and give a fourth part of profits to Lombard.

    Read the passage

    " Memorandum where William Fitz David McGerod wrongefully deteynd from *' Xcofo»" (Christopher) Lombard Wallinge als Wadingstowne in the' pety Island "remeyinge in mortegage wth the said Xcofo** for xvj. mks. It as appereth more "playnly For the whiche wrorige hold the said Xsofo»" hath taken psans (prisoner) pt of " the said William's Svaunte (servants) whose remeyned w'^ hem till the lorde Barrymor '* Edmund uppo his credyt suerteshippe hathe them enlarged condycyonately that ** the said Willame yerely shall inhabit the same accorrdingely Gevinge therof the iiijth ** p' pffit comodyties to the said Xsofor and his assig dureing that mortegage fre " from all cherges which of the said Williame will not soe do and accomplish. The " said Xcofor shall and may let the same or appoynt some other pson to inhabit the " same who and which I the said Edmond Lord barry mor must and shall defend the " same to the said Xcofo** his use and assig .wt^out any vexacion or molestecion to the *' contrary by this pfits. Wittnes hereunto I the said Edmond Lord barry mor have " hereunto subscribed my signemanual the xxviijth of Novebr 1553. Et Regne Regine ** nostre marie pmo (primo) pnt (present) ther being piers Copinger The Maic richerd " tyny georg Skyddy xxofo' gowll ballis dyvs others.

    "Edmund bary mor. *' Witnes of the pmiss beinge then pnte " per me Richard Tyrry mayo'

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 85

27. Aurora borealis over Cork, January 1750

    Cork · city · Cork · 1750

    A deep scarlet aurora borealis appeared on the evening of 21 January 1750, extending east to west over the heart of Cork and lasting about an hour. At a distance the town seemed to be in flames as it moved slowly from north to south.

    Read the passage

    little expense, the general freight for one of these lighters being small they carry about thirty tons, and being built so as to draw little water, are loaded at the cellar doors, which saves the charge of porterage in a great measure. The principal ones are the Custom House Quay, Cold Harbour, and the adjacent canal, the quay to the south of the Rape Marsh, the' Coal Quay or Ferry Quay, Kyrle's Quay, the North Quay, etc., all frequented by vessels, besides many others, only by boats, whose names are expressed on the map of this city. Floods, attended with spring tides, sometimes do great damage to the merchants, whose warehouses lie low for the conveniency of shipping off their commodities. The inhabitants, upon great inundations,'have sometimes been obliged to pass from house to house in boats, in the very middle of the high street. These floods happen but seldom, yet they who dwell on the quays prepare for them every winter, by providing materials to stop up the doors of their cellars ; these high tides are mostly about the equinoxes. On the 14th of March, 1727, happened one of the greatest inundations in this city known before that time ; it was one foot two inches over the highest part of the quays ; it blew a storm all the night before strongly at south-east, and was full moon that day. Another very high tide that overflowed the quays, and filled all the cellars, was at the time of the autumnal equinox, viz., in September, 1745, which did also very considerable mischief. But one much higher than these happened on the 28th and 29th of January, 1749-50, when most the city was overflown, the water being four feet deep in the houses on Dunscombe's Marsh, and three in the middle of the city, which inundation did incredible damage to the merchants. This flood was preceded by an aurora borealis^ that happened on the 21st in the evening, and continued about an hour ; it extended from east to west over the heart of the city, tinged with so deep a scarlet, that, at a distance, the town seemed to be in flames ; during which time it moved in a compact body from north to south with a very slow rriotion.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 217

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this city has seen floods come off the river and tides again and again. The merchants keep their warehouses low along the quays for the ease of shipping, and every winter those who dwell there prepare materials to stop up their cellar doors against high tides, which come mostly about the equinoxes. On the 14th of March, 1727, one of the greatest inundations known in the city rose one foot two inches over the highest part of the quays, after a storm blew all night from the south-east on a full moon. Another high tide overflowed the quays and filled all the cellars at the autumnal equinox in September 1745, doing considerable mischief. But a worse flood came on the 28th and 29th of January, 1749-50, when most of the city was overflown, the water four feet deep in the houses on Dunscombe's Marsh and three feet in the middle of the city, doing incredible damage to the merchants. That flood was preceded by an aurora borealis on the evening of the 21st, lasting about an hour. It extended from east to west over the heart of the city, tinged with so deep a scarlet that, at a distance, the town seemed to be in flames. During that time it moved in a compact body from north to south with a very slow motion.

28. Ballyvourney church and St Gobnate pilgrimage

    Ballyvourney · parish · Cork

    Ballyvourney, six miles west of Macroom, has a ruined church dedicated to St Gobnate, a sixth-century abbess made abbess by St Abhan. The O'Hierly family tomb is by the altar. Pilgrims visit on Whitsun-Mondays and February 14, the patron day, when her image is set up at a stone cross west of the church.

    Read the passage

    Bdllyvourney, «>., " the town of the beloved," six miles Ballyvourney. ^ ^j- ^jacroomp, is a small village and ruined church, seated on a hill to the south of the river Sullane, which runs due east from this to Macroomp, having its rise a little more to the west The church is dedicated to St. Gobnate, who, in the sixth century, was made abbess of a nunnery of Regular canonesses here by St Abhan. It was also called Husneagh, Bomeagh, and Burneagh. She is said to be the daughter of O'Connor Sligo. This church is 104 feet long by 24 broad. The steeple is ready to fall with age. On the north side of the altar is a tomb of the O'Hierlys, who were the ancient proprietors of this rugged country. North of the river stood an old castle of theirs, which is now a heap of stones. The Irish visit this place on Whitsun-Mondays and on the 14th of February, which last is the patron day of this saint. About thirty yards from the west end of the church there is a small stone cross, where her rood or image C^s) is set up on those days. Here the devotees

    such coarse and rude stones, as the mountains (where the ark rested) afforded. In Exod. XX. 25, they had a precept not to build them of hewn stone, which seems to show that the British Crom-leche, and the Irish Crom-liagh, are only the remaining effects of that ancient law and custom of not striking a tool upon the stones of their altars. These rude altars are sustained, in some places, by rows of pillars, as that above-mentioned ; and sometimes, on other large stones of the same kind.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 97

29. Bran-throwing custom on the new mayor of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    An ancient custom in Cork involved throwing bran on the new mayor and his retinue on the day he entered office. Considered an emblem of plenty, the practice persisted despite frequent prohibitions.

    Read the passage

    In this city they have an odd custom of throwing bran on the new mayor, his officers and retinue, the day he enters into his office, which has prevailed time out of mind, being, they say, an emblem of plenty ; and notwithstanding it has been often prohibited, the custom still prevails.

    This city returns two members to parliament, who had formerly wages ^31) for their attendance, as all others then had, concerning which there is this memorandum in a council-book : —

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 224

30. Burning of the Bishop's house at Ross

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork

    Bishop William Lyon built a mansion house at Ross for £300, as none had existed there previously. The house was burnt down by the rebel O'Donovan a little more than three years after its construction.

    Read the passage

    " That the bishoprick of Cloyne was granted by his predecessor in fee-farm/ at five "marks rent ; that Cork and Ross, when he came into possession of these sees, were '•worth but £;jo per annum, but that he had improved them all to ;^2oo per annum; *' that there was no mansion house at Ross when he became possessed of that bishoprick, " and only a spot of ground to build one on ; that he built a house which cost him ** ;£30O, which in a little more than three years after was burnt down by the rebel "O'Donovan ; . . . . that he never was in possession of the house belonging to " the bishoprick of Cloyne, which was withheld from him by Sir John FitzEdmund *' FitzGerald in his life and since his death by his heir."

    He died at Cork 4th October, 1616. A Rent-roll of such Lands as belong to the Bishop ofCorke^ April isf, 1679.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Ross Carbery, this was part of the bishoprick of Ross. When Bishop William Lyon came into possession of the sees of Cork and Ross, they were worth but £30 per annum. He improved them to £200 per annum. There was no mansion house at Ross when he became possessed of that bishoprick, only a spot of ground to build one on. He built a house which cost him £300. A little more than 3 years after, the house was burnt down by the rebel O'Donovan. The bishoprick of Cloyne had been granted by his predecessor in fee-farm at 5 marks rent, but Lyon was never in possession of its house, which was withheld from him by Sir John FitzEdmund FitzGerald in his life and since his death by his heir. He died at Cork on 4 October 1616.

31. Carrigtohill: monument to Sir James Cotter, 1688

    Carrigtohill · town · Cork · 1688

    In the parish church at Carrigtohill stood a monument of Italian marble erected in 1688 to the memory of Sir James Cotter. The village lay eight miles east of Cork by a tidal river spanned by a four-arched bridge.

    Read the passage

    under a bridge of four arches, and overspreads a large tract of land, making an excellent marsh for fattening horses. In the parish church is a monument of Italian marble, erected to the memory of Sir James Cotter, anno 1688. Near this place, to the N.E. is a large cavity, running under a rock for a considerable way in the earth. A mile to the W. is Killycloin, an agreeable seat of Alderman Knap, of Cork. Anngrove, formerly called Ballinsperig, at no great distance from the other, is finely situated on a rising hill, which commands an extensive prospect over

    (s) The first Earl of Cork takes notice in his will that, in order to prevent other great men from coming to purchase a part of Carrigtohill, which might prove troublesome to the Earl of Barrymore, and to make his manor and town entire, he purchased several lands of the Newtowns and Terrys near this place and Barry's Court, and leaves his lordship the whole benefit thereof, provided his son Dungarvan be made a saver thereby, and he joins his daughter, the Lady Barrymore, in this purchase, to be enjoyed by her and their h^irs for ever.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 91

32. Cormac MacCarty's buildings at Kilcrea, Carricknamuck, Ballyvacadane

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1449–1494

    Cormac MacCarty, who built Blarney Castle, also built the castles of Kilcrea and Carricknamuck, the abbey of Kilcrea, and the nunnery of Ballyvacadane with five churches. He was wounded at Carricknamuck and died in Cork in 1494, buried in Kilcrea abbey.

    Read the passage

    Blarney Castle was built by Cormac MacCarty, surnamed Laider (he came into the lordship 1449). He also built the castles of Kilcrea and Carricknamuck, the abbey of Kilcrea, and the nunnery of Ballyvacadane, with five churches. He was wounded at Carricknamuck by Owen, the son of Teige MacCarty, his cousin-german, and died in Cork, being buried in Kilcrea abbey, anno dom. 1494. This estate was forfeited in the wars of 1641 by Donough, Lord Muskery, but the greatest part of it was restored by the Act of Settlement. This Lord was General of the Irish forces in Munster, and Very active in that rebellion. Ludlow informs us that he was charged with having put several of the English to death on the road between his house of Macroomp and Cork, for which he was apprehended, and tried for his life. The trial lasted long by reason of a clause which he urged in his defence, from a printed copy of the articles made against him, which, " although " (says Ludlow, who was one of the commissioners appointed to try him) '* it had been unjust for me to grant in the terms there mentioned, "yet would have cleared him, and thrown the guilt and blame upon me; for articles " given ought to be made good. But this clause, upon search into the original, which " I kept, appeared to have been inserted by themselves in the print which they pro- "duced for evidence, under pretence of having lost the original articles. Notwith- " standing which, it appearing that, though divers of the English were murdered by the " convoy appointed to conduct them safe to Cork, the Lord Muskery had taken what " care he could for their security, and had done what in him lay to bring the person *' who was guilty of that blood to justice. The court acquitted him, and he was per- " mitted, according to his articles, to pass into Spain." — Ludlau/s Memoirs^ p. 442.

    Colonel MacCarty Reagh and several other persons were also tried at this time for the same crimes, but the colonel was acquitted. — Ludlow^ ib.^ p. 440.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 93

33. Crubeen Bridge and the Cork Anglers

    near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

    An one-arched structure spanning the Awbeg at Carrigrohane is known as 'Crubeen Bridge.' The name originates from two Cork gentlemen, Dick Mountjoy and Harry Dowthat, who fished there frequently and lunched on pigs'-feet, or 'crubeens,' upon the bridge's battlements.

    Read the passage

    " It was so called by two Cork gentlemen — Dick Mountjoy "and Harry Dowthat — who were good anglers, and used to "spend most of their time fishing in the river, their luncheon "usually consisted of pigs'-feet, commonly called crubeens. Upon these they used " to lunch on the battlements of this bridge, and always speaking about their day's "sport, said 'they had lunch on Crubeen Bridge.' I had this account from Mr. James " Beale. Mountjoy was a watchmaker and jeweller; both were his intimate friends."

    In the adjoining river, Smith notices the existence of pearls, which are found in the fresh-water mussel.^'> This bivalve has its home in many of the streams in the north and south of Ireland. At the Omagh railway station the summer traveller is sure to be offered one or more for sale that have been fished from the river there.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 200

34. Desmond's exactions on Ventry fishing-boats

    Ventry · townland · Kerry

    The last Earl of Desmond claimed 13s. 4d. from every fishing-boat in the port of Ventry, part of his vast extortions across Kerry and other counties. All these possessions were forfeited and vested in the Queen by Act of Parliament after his attainder in 1582.

    Read the passage

    When this last Earl was attainted (September 25, 1582), he was possessed of a prodigious estate in the counties of Kerry, Cork, Waterford, Limerick, etc. ; his lands, extending 150 miles, and containing 574,628 acres of English measure, on which were many strong castles. He was Lord of the Regalities of the county palatine of Kerry, Lord of ImokiUy, in this county, etc.<54) He had a great number of vassals, and of his kindred and surname above 500 gentlemen ; raised coigne and livery, shragh, etc., upon his tenants, through all the county of Limerick. He had all wrecks of the sea, through all the ports and creeks of the county of Kerry ; 13s. 4d. out of every fishing-boat in the port of Ventry and Ferreter's Island. It was asserted that he was able to raise, at a call, 600 horse and 2,000 foot, all which possessions were utterly forfeited, and, by Act of Parliament, vested in the Queen and her heirs, as were

    and one daughter, Margaret, who was married to Donald Mac Carty Reagh, and was mother of Cormac or Charles, great grandfather to Donald Mac Carty Reagh, who lived at the time of the revolution.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the last Earl of Desmond once took money from every fishing-boat that put out from Ventry. He claimed thirteen shillings and fourpence from each one, and the same from every boat at Ferreter's Island. That was only a fraction of what he drew from the coast. He claimed all wrecks of the sea through every port and creek of Kerry. When he was attainted, he held a prodigious estate across Kerry, Cork, Waterford and Limerick, his lands running 150 miles and covering 574,628 acres of English measure, with many strong castles on them. He was Lord of the Regalities of the county palatine of Kerry, and Lord of Imokilly. He had a great number of vassals, and over 500 gentlemen of his own kindred and surname. He raised coigne and livery and shragh upon his tenants through all the county of Limerick. It was said he could raise at a call 600 horse and 2,000 foot. All these possessions were utterly forfeited, and by Act of Parliament vested in the Queen and her heirs. He left one daughter, Margaret, married to Donald Mac Carty Reagh.

35. Doneraile village and St. Leger estate

    Doneraile · townland · Cork

    Doneraile, about three miles east of Buttevant, is described as one of the most pleasant villages in the kingdom, almost surrounded by groves of lofty fir. Its beauty is largely owed to the fine house and extensive improvements of Hayes St. Leger, esq., situated on a rising ground facing the River Awbeg, with cascades, a canal, gardens, a labyrinth, a deer park, and a decoy.

    Read the passage

    Doneraile. ^^^ places of most note in it are first, Doneraile, about three miles east of Buttevant, one of the most pleasant and beautiful villages in this kingdom ; it is almost surrounded with groves of lofty fir, which, flourishing at all seasons of the year, render it always agreeable ; but this place is indebted for the greatest part of its beauty to the fine house and extensive improvements of Hayes St. Leger, esq., situated on a rising ground at the south-east end of the town, facing the river Awbeg, which is formed into a fine cascade with reservoirs. In the front court, on a pedestal, stands the statue of a gladiator, with other lesser figures. The out-offices are large and regularly built ; the gardens well laid out and of a very considerable extent In them is a wilderness and labyrinth; and, towards the foot of the gardens is a canal of 370 yards long and 140 broad, well stocked with fish. The water is constantly supplied by a large wheel that casts up a part of the river Awbeg into a reservoir, which is conveyed under-ground into the canal, and returns back over a cascade into the road. On the other side of the river are pleasant lawns, and an extensive deer park, well planted and enclosed ; and to the east of the house is a fine decoy. Near the bridge, to the west end of Doneraile, the river is broad and deep, being retained in a fine basin for supplying the cascades formed by it as it passes the above improvements ; and it is adorned with islands, planted with groves of fir, which add an inexpressible beauty to this place.

    At this end of the town stands a very neat parish church, with a pretty steeple, embellished with a spire, gilded ball, and weathercock. •On a black marble over the east door is this inscription : —

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 175

36. Dungarvan boat captured by corsairs

    Dungarvan · town · Waterford · 1631

    Shortly after capturing a vessel near the Old Head of Kinsale, the Barbary corsairs also took a boat of similar size belonging to Dungarvan, with a crew of five and captain Thomas Carew.

    Read the passage

    " On Sunday, 19th June, 1631, two Barbary corsairs, under the command of a Dutch " renegade, who is said to have been called Captain Matthew Rice, captured near the " Old Head of Kinsale a small vessel of twelve tons burthen, having on board a crew "of six men, the master's name of which was John Hackett. Shortly alterwards they " took another boat of the same size, belonging to Dungarvan, whose crew also num- " bered five and a captain, Thomas Carew.

    " It is most probable that the name of the renegade who commanded the rovers was " Malhias, to which was appended the Arabic title oi * Reis,' which means a 'captain.' " His flagship was a vessel of 300 tons, mounting 24 guns, with a crew of 200 men, " while his consort was a smaller ship of 100 tons, carrying 12 iron cannonades and " 100 men.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 148

37. Dunmanway linen manufacture and premiums

    Dunmanway · town · Cork

    Dunmanway became a thriving centre of linen manufacture under Sir Richard Cox, with looms producing checked and white linen, diapers, fustians, handkerchiefs and girth-web. Manufacturers were kept employed by premiums from their landlord, with a rent-free house awarded annually to the master producing the best and greatest quantity of linen.

    Read the passage

    Richard Cox, bart, whose grandfather, towards the end of the seventeenth century, undertook to plant an English colony here, directly on the road leading from Cork to Bantry. King William, to encourage his great design, granted him a patent for fairs and markets ; and by an Act of Parliament, in the beginning of Queen Anne's reign, the site of the parish church was removed two miles to the projected town of Dunmanway. For the convenience of passengers, a handsome stone bridge W2is built over the Bandon river. Of late years Dunmanway is become a very thriving place, where the linen manufacture is in a most prosperous and flourishing state, by the patronage and industry of Sir Richard Cox. The house wherein Sir Richard resided is in the midst of the town, and is pleasantly adorned with handsome avenues and good plantations of fir, elm, lime, chesnut, and some beech. The town is seated in the centre of a small valley surrounded with hills to the west, north and south. Those to the north are rough and rocky, but from hence to Bandon, along the river of that name, is a fine well-improved vale, consisting of a light gravelly soil. Here are a considerable number of looms at work for linen, as well checkered as white, diapers, fustians, handkerchiefs, girth-web, etc., and the manufacturers were, by several premiums given by their landlord according to their respective merits, kept constantly employed. A good house, rent free, was given to a master who, that year, made up the best and greatest quantity of linen ; and this inscription, in gold letters, was placed over the door of such as deserved this reward : —

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 137

38. Earl of Cork's 1605 lease of Youghal College lands

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1605

    In April 1605, the Bishop of Cork, Cloyne, and Ross, as warden of the New College of Youghal, granted a lease of the college and its edifices, along with numerous parsonages and rectories across County Cork and beyond, to Lawrence Parsons in trust for Sir Richard Boyle, for an annual payment of 20 marks.

    Read the passage

    00 This indenture bears date April 8, 1605. between William, Lord Bishop of Cork» Cloyne, and Ross, the warden, priests, and collegioners of the new College of Youghal, of the one part, and Lawrence Parsons, gent, clerk ol the Crown (in trust for Sir R. Boyle), of the other. Whereby the said bishop, etc., grants to the said Lawrence the new college, with all the edifices, etc. ; the lands of Ballymulcaske, one ploughland near Youghal, the parsonages and rectories of Youghal, Inchiquin, Killeigh, Ichtermurragh, Ardeak, Aglishane, Beaver or Carigaline, Moyallow, Newtown, Olehane, and Aghcaromoe; the parsonages of Miros, Skull, and Killemuck, in Carbery; the vie. of Kilmacdonough, Garivoe, and Kilcredan, all in this county; the rect. of Aglish Idronine, in the diocese of Ardfert, with all their advowsons, patronages, etc. ; to hold the same, paying to the warden and his successors the sum of 20 marks sterling, by even portions, at the feasts of Easter and Michaelmas, viz. — for the usual stipend of the warden, £6 13s. 4d., and the same for his diet ; and to the priests their usual stipends and diet.

    (") In his Answer to the Attorney-General's Bill.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 43

39. Eleven ancient parish churches of Cork destroyed

    Cork · city · Cork · 1462

    A charter of King Edward IV, granted in 1462, records that eleven parish churches in and about Cork were destroyed by Irish rebels and intestine wars over fifteen years, causing great decay and poverty. The twenty-four marks yearly paid to the crown were remitted.

    Read the passage

    There were anciently eleven parish churches in and about Cork, as appears from a paragraph in King Edward IV.'s charter, for which the citizens paid twenty-four marks yearly to the crown ; but, upon consideration that the said churches were destroyed by Irish rebels and intestine wars, which continued fifteen years, occasioning great decay and poverty in the city, these twenty-four marks were remitted to the citizens. This charter was granted anno 1462.

    These churches were : — i. St Mary Shandon ; 2. St. Catherine ; 3. St. Brendan, all on the north of the river ; 4. Christ Church ; 5. St Peter ; 6. St John ; 7. St Nicholas ; 8. St Bridget ; 9. St Mary Nard ; 10. St Stephen ; these five last on the south side of the river ; and 11. St Laurence's Chapel, near Southgate. Besides St Finbarr's, I do not reckon those of St Anne and St Paul, as they were since built

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 209

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Cork, the city carries an older loss. A charter granted by King Edward the 4th in 1462 records that there were anciently eleven parish churches in and about Cork, for which the citizens paid twenty-four marks yearly to the crown. But those churches were destroyed by Irish rebels and intestine wars, which continued fifteen years, occasioning great decay and poverty in the city. On that consideration, the twenty-four marks were remitted to the citizens. The churches listed were St Mary Shandon, St Catherine, and St Brendan, all on the north of the river. On the south side were Christ Church, St Peter, St John, St Nicholas, St Bridget, St Mary Nard, and St Stephen. The eleventh was St Laurence's Chapel, near Southgate. St Finbarr's stood besides these. St Anne and St Paul are not reckoned among the eleven, as they were built since.

40. French Protestant settlement at Godsel's Lane, Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1685

    After the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, French Protestants settled in Godsel's Lane off Paul's Church in Cork. Their church later became a Wesleyan Methodist congregation, with a graveyard belonging to their descendants. Many became respectable citizens of Cork.

    Read the passage

    " On the revocation of the Edict of Nantes a number of French Protestants came to " Cork, and Godsel's Lane, off Paul's Church, was entirely inhabited by them. Their " descendants are now some of the most respectable citizens. Their church is now " occupied by a congregation of Wesleyan Methodists, and attached to it is a grave- "yard exclusively belonging to their descendants. The congregation must have "been numerous and wealthy. 'I was once,' says the Rev. T. R. England in a " letter to me, * in possession of a large quarto in the French language, printed in Cork " * in the early part of the last century, written by their pastor, and intended as an ex- " * position and defence of their peculiar tenets.' "

    "A work in folio containing 869 pages, entitled The Holy Court, in 5 books, trans- " lated from the French of Nic. Caussin, by Sir T. H. and others, was published in " Cork. It bears the following imprint : — ' Corke : Printed and sold by Eugene Swiney, " • near the Exchange, mdcclxvii.* " (1767).

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 233

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the road brings you near Godsel's Lane, off Paul's Church, where a community of French Protestants settled after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. Godsel's Lane was entirely inhabited by them. Their descendants became some of the most respectable citizens of Cork. Their church is now occupied by a congregation of Wesleyan Methodists, and attached to it is a graveyard exclusively belonging to their descendants. The congregation must have been numerous and wealthy. The Reverend T. R. England wrote that he was once in possession of a large quarto in the French language, printed in Cork in the early part of the last century, written by their pastor and intended as an exposition and defence of their peculiar tenets. A work in folio containing 869 pages, entitled The Holy Court, in five books, translated from the French of Nicolas Caussin by Sir T. H. and others, was also published in Cork. It bears the imprint Corke, printed and sold by Eugene Swiney near the Exchange, 1767.

41. Kilcrea and Macroom castles of Cormac Mac Carty

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1602

    Cormac Mac Dermot Carty, a powerful figure able to raise 1,000 men, possessed the castles of Kilcrea and Macroom in addition to Blarney. He surrendered Kilcrea to Lord President Carew while his prisoner but escaped soon after.

    Read the passage

    Cork, and greatly annoyed that city in the war of 164 1, until it was taken by Roger Earl of Orrery /»3) then Lord Broghill, in 1646. In Queen Elizabeth's time it was reckoned one of the strongest fortresses in Munster. The author of Pacata Hibemia^ p. 351, describes it to be composed of four large piles joined in one, which shows that it was formerly much larger than at present. It is seated upon a main rock, that secured it from mining ; the walls are eighteen feet thick, and it was likewise flanked with bastions. Anno 1602, Cormac Mac Dermot Carty was accused of a treasonable correspondence with the Irish rebels, and obliged to deliver up this castle to Captain Taafe for the Queen's use. This Cormac was a very powerful person, being able to raise 1,000 men at a call. He also possessed the castles of Kilcrea and Macroomp ; the former he gave up to the Lord President Carew, being then his prisoner, but escaped out of his hands soon after. This castle Is seated upon an eminence, with a river running beneath it, and, on the other side is a fine lake of about thirty acres, abounding with great quantities of godd leeches. In the castle, which is in very good repair, is an original painting, at full length, of Charles XII. king of Sweden, brought hither by the late James Jeffrys, esq., envoy to that monarch, whose father, Sir James Jeffrys, purchased this estate from the crown. This monarch is drawn in the dress M. Voltaire describes, and the painting seems to be very well executed. Adjoining to the castle, is a fine park, sweetly wooded, and well watered ; also, a fair bridge over Blarney river. The gardens of the castle are well laid out, and kept in good order.

    The lands about Blarney are mostly under com, pasture, and dairies occupy the greater part of the adjacent country. The soil is a yellowish clay, which they manure mostly with lime. Plants growing near the lough were — water-hoarhound, water-cinquefoil, angelica sylvestris, peri-

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 94

42. Kineigh round tower and ruined church

    Kineigh · townland · Kerry

    North of Iniskeen stands the ruined church of Kineigh with a remarkable round tower over 70 feet high, 124 feet from the west end of the church. Uniquely among round towers, its first story is hexagonal while the five stories above are round.

    Read the passage

    Ims een. consisting of about thirty-eight houses. It takes its name, according to tradition, from Kean Mac Moile More, ancestor of the Mahonys. It has a good weekly market on Thursdays. This manor belonged to the Earl of Cork ; it is very large, containing no less than fourscore ploughlands, and lies on both sides the Bandon river. In this village they carry on the pernicious trade of distilling whiskey spirits. About three miles west there is a manufacture of earthenware, the clay for which is brought from the county of Kerry. The lands here are mostly under meadow and pasture ; there is likewise some corn, and no inconsiderable quantity of flax, but from Iniskeen to the village of Nuce's Town the country is, for the most part, mountainy and rocky, being covered over with heath, furze, and fern. To the north of Iniskeen is the ruined church of Kineigh, with a remarkable round tower above 70 feet high, and 1 24 feet from the west end of the church. Contrary to all others of the kind, the first story is in the form of a hexagon, but the other five stories above it are round. I shall mention more of this tower in another place.

    Six miles west of Bandon, a» little east of Iniskeen, is

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 137

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Kineigh, north of Iniskeen, stands a ruined church with a round tower that is unlike any other. The tower rises above 70 feet high, standing 124 feet from the west end of the church. What makes it remarkable is this: contrary to all others of the kind, the first story is in the form of a hexagon, but the five stories above it are round. No other round tower in Ireland shares that shape. The church itself is ruined now. Iniskeen, the village to the south, takes its name, according to tradition, from Kean Mac Moile More, ancestor of the Mahonys. It consisted of about 38 houses and had a good weekly market on Thursdays. The manor belonged to the Earl of Cork and was very large, containing no less than fourscore ploughlands, lying on both sides of the Bandon river. In that village they carried on the pernicious trade of distilling whiskey spirits. About three miles west there was a manufacture of earthenware, the clay for which was brought from the county of Kerry.

43. Lime-kilns of Muskery: agricultural practice and economy

    near Muskerry · street · Cork

    The barony of Muskery has more lime-kilns than anywhere else in Ireland, with hundreds burning throughout the summer. Cottagers pay rents through lime-burning and sell roche lime ten or fifteen miles from the kiln.

    Read the passage

    of the vale of Castlemore, down below Kilcrea, on all the adjacent hills, there are great numbers of lime-kilns. It is not uncommon to see several on one farm, and some hundreds of them are constantly kept burning all the summer season, being mostly turf kilns, besides some of furze, which are here seldom used. The common labourers in this part of the country will set down their kilns and burn them without the assistance of a mason. In one of them they commonly burn 200 barrels of roche lime, which will make 500 barrels of slack. When it is burned, they take out the lime before it slacks, otherwise it would burst the kiln. They also use seasand for manuring, particularly in the S.E. of this barony, it lying within two miles of the Bandon river, where it is navigable up to Inishannon. Several of the cottagers in this tract pay their rents by lime-burning, and will often sell roche lime, ten or fifteen miles from the kiln, at a sWlling the barrel.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 103

44. Monstrous skeleton discovered in Youghal strand

    Youghal · town · Cork

    A skeleton of a monstrous animal was discovered in the strand at Youghal, with a shoulder bone over three and a half feet long and weighing above one hundredweight. The rest of the skeleton, and possibly another of the same kind, remain buried under sand and gravel in the strand.

    Read the passage

    The large extended strand of Youghal, as far as the lowest ebbs uncover it, and probably much farther, is no other than a common turf h ^^^* covered over with sand and pebbles, from whence not Strand. ^"^^ good turf is dug every season, but also great quantities of timber trees — as fir, hazel, &c. — are found.^'^ Some years ago a skeleton of a monstrous animal was discovered in this strand. I saw one of the shoulder bones in Youghal ; it is three and a-half feet long, and weighs above one hundred weight. The remainder of the skeleton, and (as I am informed) another of the same kind, lie still buried in the strand ; but I could hear of nobody that knew the very spot they were buried in. When they were first discovered it happened to be a very low ebb ; but the sea soon flowing over the place, covered it up with sand and gravel, so that it could not be again readily found. These bones lay in a turfy soil, not far from the surface. They, undoubted) Mr. Charles Merret, in the Philosophical Trans. N. 223. p. 343, says : — " That in " Lincolnshire they dig great roots of trees out of the sand, at low water, near a mile " from the shore, which he takes to belong to fir, the bark smelling aromatic, like that *• wood."

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 51

45. Passage trade from ships, 1748

    Passage West · town · Cork · 1748

    In 1748, the chief trade of Passage came from ships riding at anchor before it; sixteen ships were counted, among which seven Portuguese vessels were taking in beef, tallow, and hides. A horse ferry operated between Passage and Great Island.

    Read the passage

    •' 1748. — The chief trade of the little town called Passage comes from the ships that "ride before it. We counted sixteen there at anchor, among which were seven " Portuguese that were taking in beef, tallow, and hides." — Tour of Two English Gentlemen,

    " 1762. — Here all ships of burthen unlade, and their cargoes are carried up to Cork, " either on small cars drawn by one horse, or in vessels of small size, the channel " higher up admitting those of 150 tons burthen. There are but few houses in Passage, " one of which is a very indifferent inn." — Derrick* s Letters^ voi. i., p. 31.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 127

46. Rebuilding of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1862–1870

    Under Bishop Fitzgerald's patronage, the chapter first considered rebuilding St. Fin Barre's Cathedral. During Bishop John Gregg's episcopate the present cathedral was erected, with the foundation stone laid on 12 January 1865 and the building consecrated on St. Andrew's Day, 1870.

    Read the passage

    The Irish State Church was disestablished in 1869. Dr. John Gregg was a native of county Clare, and the first prelate of the Irish Church that preached in the native language to the people. During his episcopate the present cathedral of St. Fin Barre was erected . The foundation stone was laid on January 12th, 1865, and the building consecrated for divine service on St. Andrew's day, 1870. Bishop John Gregg died on the 26th May, 1878, and was succeeded by his second son.

    Dr. Robert Samuel Gregg, the present head of the diocese, translated from Ossory, Ferns, and Leighlin. In 1878 Dr. Gregg published his father's life, entitled Memorials of fohn Gregg, B,D,

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 252

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, the road passes near St. Fin Barre's Cathedral. The present cathedral was erected during the episcopate of Dr. John Gregg, a native of county Clare and the first prelate of the Irish Church that preached in the native language to the people. The foundation stone was laid on 12 January 1865, and the building was consecrated on St. Andrew's Day, 1870. The Irish State Church was disestablished in 1869, while the cathedral was still being built. Bishop John Gregg died on 26 May 1878 and was succeeded by his second son, Dr. Robert Samuel Gregg.

47. Repulse of rebel attack on New Ross

    New Ross · townland · Wexford · 1798

    On 5 June 1798, some 150 yeomanry among General Needham's troops repulsed an attack on New Ross by 20,000 rebels under Bagnal Harvey.

    Read the passage

    5th June. Some 150 yeomanry were amongst the troops under General Needham who repulsed an attack on Ross by 20,000 rebels under Bagnal Harvey.

    5th June. Several wives and children of the North Cork Militia were burned in a barn at Scullabogue, county Wexford, by the insurgents.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 285

48. Ringrone Almshouse near Old Dock

    Ringrone · townland · Cork

    An almshouse near the Old Dock in the parish of Ringrone was founded by Dr. Edward Worth. It housed five poor people who received 40s. per annum and lodging.

    Read the passage

    In the parish of Ringroan, near this town is an almshouse, near the Old Dock, founded by Dr. Edward Worth, incumbent of that parish, who was afterwards dean of Cork and bishop of Killaloe. It contains five poor people, who have 40s. per annum and lodging. The same prelate has left a more noble charity than this small foundation — viz., that called the Bluecoat Hospital, in the city of Cork, an account of which will be given in the description of that city. He was the author of a tract against the Anabaptists, one of the first works that was ever printed in Cork, in 1654, 4to. He also published several sermons.

    « . This town is built under a hill, called Compass Hill, and

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 119

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Ringrone, there was an almshouse near the Old Dock, founded by Dr. Edward Worth, who was incumbent of this parish and later became dean of Cork and bishop of Killaloe. It housed five poor people, each receiving 40 shillings a year and lodging. Worth left a larger charity as well, the Bluecoat Hospital in the city of Cork. He was the author of a tract against the Anabaptists, one of the first works ever printed in Cork, in 1654. He also published several sermons.

49. Roche's Country on the Blackwater

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    Adam de Rupe married the daughter and heiress of Fleming, the first Norman to gain possession of the territory on the Blackwater between Mallow and Fermoy, afterwards known as Roche's Country. The Roches were among the most loyal Anglo-Norman barons, and their attachment to the Stuarts cost them their estates.

    Read the passage

    Viscount Fermoy. Temp, King John, a royal grant was made to Adam de Rupe (Roche) of ** the cantred of Rosseliher [Rosscarbery], with its appurtenances, save the demesnes of the bishops of that see, by the service of five knights." This Adam married the daughter and heiress of Fleming, the first Norman who gained possession of the territory on the Blackwater, between Mallow and Fermoy, afterwards known as ** Roche's country." Fitz Hugh Roche, according to Archdall, founded the abbey of Bridgetown, on the Blackwater, in the reign of King John. Lord Roche was fined 200 marks for refusing to attend a parliament convened 20th Edward II. Under date of 1583, the Antta/s of the Four Masters record the death of David Lord Roche, his wife Lady Ellen, and Eveleen Roche, Countess of Thomond and sister of David Roche ; adding, that " there did not exist of all the old English in Ireland a couple possessing a barony of more renown." Three of his sons and many of his followers lost their lives in the service of Elizabeth. From the third son of this David the present Barons Fermoy descend. The Roches were amongst the most loyal of the Anglo-Norman barons in Ireland, and their attachment to the Stuarts cost them their estates. Lady Roche, in 1649, defended Castle-

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 279

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Fermoy, you are coming into what was once Roche's Country, the territory on the Blackwater between Mallow and Fermoy. Under King John, a royal grant was made to Adam de Rupe of the cantred of Rosseliher, by the service of five knights. Adam married the daughter and heiress of Fleming, the first Norman to gain possession of this territory, which afterwards took the Roche name. Fitz Hugh Roche founded the abbey of Bridgetown on the Blackwater in the reign of King John. A Lord Roche was fined 200 marks for refusing to attend a parliament in the 20th year of Edward the Second. The Annals of the Four Masters record that in 1583 David Lord Roche died, with his wife Lady Ellen, and Eveleen Roche, Countess of Thomond and sister of David. The annals say "there did not exist of all the old English in Ireland a couple possessing a barony of more renown." Three of his sons and many of his followers lost their lives in the service of Elizabeth. From the third son of David the Barons Fermoy descend. The Roches were among the most loyal Anglo-Norman barons in Ireland, and their attachment to the Stuarts cost them their estates. Lady Roche in 1649 defended Castle-

50. St Olan's Well and Swearing Stone at Aghabullogue

    near Aghabullogue · village · Cork

    In the churchyard of Aghabullogue parish sits a stone called St. Olan's cap, which common people used to swear upon on solemn occasions. Local folklore claims that if the stone were carried away, it would miraculously return of itself to its original place.

    Read the passage

    Aghaboiioge. ^jj church is a celebrated well, dedicated to St Olan. In the churchyard is a stone, called St Olan's cap, by which the common people also swear on all solemn occasions ; and they pretend that, if this stone was carried off, it would return of itself to its old place. At Magoumey, a particle of this parish, is a new parish church and decenA glebe house.

    Mount Rivers Mount Rivers, in the same parish, the house and im- * provements of John Whiting, esq., commands a fair prospect to the south. Near it, a large human skull, almost double the common size, was some time ago dug up. Three miles E. of Macroomp stands the castle of Carrigadrohid, built on a steep rock, in the middle of the river Lee, by one of the Mac Carty family. It is said this romantic situation was the choice of the Lady O'CarroU, wife to Mac Carty, yet others say it was built by the Learys. This bridge and castle formed a noted pass in the wars of 1641, and were often taken and recovered by the contending forces. It is in good repair, and inhabited by John Bowen, esq. The way from this to Macroomp leads through a deep, gloomy hollow way, called Glin-caum, t.e., "the crooked glen"; on either hand is a perfect wall of steep craggy rocks, covered in some places \vith oak, ash, and birch, at the roots of which grow polypody in plenty, also a good quantity of the adianthum nigrum and trichomanes.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 96

51. The Mall public walk in Cork

    The Mall · street · Cork

    "The Mall" is the most frequented public walk in Cork, planted with trees. On public days and during assizes it is well filled with the beau monde and considerable numbers from the country.

    Read the passage

    The public walks of this city, in comparison of the number of inhabitants, are few, and not over commodious ; that mostly frequented is called " The Mall," which has little to recommend it except its being planted with trees, and the benefit of the adjacent canal at high water, but is equally offensive when the tide is out in summer. This Mall is ill-paved, yet, on public days is well filled with the beau monde of the city, and, during the assizes, with considerable numbers from the country. On Hamand's Marsh is a large, pleasant bowling-green planted on its margin with trees kept regularly cut, whose shade makes it an agreeable walk. It is also washed by a branch of the Lee, and on it a band of music has been supported by subscription for the entertainment of the gentlemen and ladies who frequent it ; adjacent to it is the Assembly House, where assemblies are held two days in the week, as also a weekly concert, which is maintained by a subscription, for the support of the Infirmary. Here is an organ, the other performers play on violins, German flutes, etc., with vocal music, and are sometimes assisted by gentlemen who play to encourage this charity. Mardyke is a pleasant walk, being a bank walled on both sides and filled up, extending westerly from the city near an English mile, and washed on each hand by the channel of the river. This bank is carried through a marshy island, and was done at the private expense of Mr. Edward Webber, anno 17 19, who also built a house on the west end, where are good gardens planted with fruit for the accommodation and entertainment of those who frequent this walk. Friars* Walk, on the south side of the town, is an agreeable retreat, being planted with trees, and situated on a rising ground commanding a pleasant prospect This is no bad walk, but it lies too much out of the way. It was formerly a part of the Red Abbey, before mentioned.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 216

52. Tuckey's Quay granted to Mayor Timothy Tuckey in 1688

    Cork · city · Cork · 1677–1688

    The Corporation of Cork granted Timothy Tuckey a quay (afterwards called Tuckey's Quay) in recompense for his having entertained the Duke of Ormond, lord lieutenant of Ireland, at an expense of £50 when Tuckey was mayor. By tradition he was offered and refused knighthood.

    Read the passage

    Page 389. Quays, The Corporation of Cork, in 1688, granted to Timothy Tuckey, Alderman, the quay, afterwards called Tuckey's Quay, in consideration of his having (when he was mayor) entertained the Duke of Ormond, lord lieutenant of Ireland, at an expense of ;6so. He was mayor in 1677 and 1678, being eight years before he received the recompense. According to tradition he was offered and refused knighthood. Carte, in his Life of the Duke of Orfnondy says nothing of his stopping at Cork in 1678. Qucere, — Are there any memorials in Kilkenny castle of the Duke's visit to Cork at that time ? On a former visit he stopped at the Bishop's.

    Page 393. City Revenue. The gateage in Smith's day seems to have fallen in amount, for the average from 1725 to 1726 was £(y/^\ i8s. 7 J^d., made up as follows : —

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 244

53. Cloyne's name and the cave near the town

    Cloyne · town · Cork

    Cloyne, called Cluain Vamha, takes its name from the Irish 'cluain' (den, cave, or enclosure) and 'vamha' (dark place or place of horror). A deep and large cave in a park near the town, part of the domain of the See, likely gave the place its name.

    Read the passage

    Cloyne was called Cluain Vamha, and, in the old Roman provincial, Cluain Vanian. Clone, or Cluain, signifies a den or cave, also an enclosure or retirement. Llhuyd says it is sometimes taken for a park. Vamha signifies a dark place, or a place of horror. There is a deep and large cave in a park near this town, part of the domain of the See, which, probably, gave name to the place.^30)

    This cathedral (dedicated to its founder) is built in the form of a cross, and is a decent gothic building ; the choir, in which there is a good organ, is neatly finished. It is seventy feet long, and the nave about one hundred and twenty. On each side are lateral aisles (besides the crossaisles) divided by gothic arches, five on each side. At the entrance of the choir is a handsome portal of wood. The stalls, bishop's throne, pulpit, and other pews are well executed, as is the altar-piece. There Is a canopy seat for the Earl of Inchiquin in this choir. On the N. side of the chancel is the bishop's consistory court, also used for a vestry-room ; out of this a pair of stairs leads to the pulpit. On the S. side of the altar is a flagstone to the memory of the Rev. Henry Rug, dean of this cathedral, who was interred here in June, 167 1. On the east wall of the north cross-aisle is a monument with this inscription : —

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 60

54. Gerald Lord Courcy's will disinheriting his daughter

    Cork · city · Cork · 1599

    Gerald Lord Courcy, knighted by Sir Henry Sydney in 1566, made his last will on 6 June 1599, disinheriting his daughter Mary and giving all his lands to his next cousin and heir John FitzEdmond Courcy, with default to Queen Elizabeth and her successors. The will was proved 8 August 1599.

    Read the passage

    Gerald Lord Courcy, by his last will and testament dated 6th June, 1599, disinherited his dr. Mary, and gave all his lands unto his next cousin and heir, John FitzEdmond Courcy, and his h. m. legit, pro., and in default of such issue unto Queen Elizabeth and her successors. The will was proved 8th Aug., a°- 1 599.

    236

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 133

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this is where Gerald Lord Courcy's story ends. On 6 June 1599 he made his last will, disinheriting his daughter Mary and giving all his lands to his next cousin and heir, John FitzEdmond Courcy, and in default of such issue to Queen Elizabeth and her successors. The will was proved on 8 August 1599.

55. Kinalmeaky fortified by O'Mahony, planted with English

    Kinalmeaky · barony · Cork · 1580–1602

    Kinalmeaky, formerly part of Carbery, was fortified by O'Mahony during the Earl of Desmond's rebellion. Queen Elizabeth granted it to English undertakers Greenville and Beecher, who planted it with English settlers. In 1602 the army could not pass through it owing to dense wood and bog.

    Read the passage

    being fortified by O'Mahony, in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion, it was, by Queen Elizabeth, granted to Greenville and Beecher, English undertakers, by whom it was first planted with English, and then got the name of a barony. It afterwards gave title to the noble Lewis Boyle, Lord Viscount Kinalmeaky and Baron of Bandon Bridge, who was unfortunately slain at the fight of LiscarroU. It was formerly a mere fastness, being all wood and bog, so that ann. 1602 the army could not pass it, being obliged to go round by Kinsale in their march from Cork, to the siege of Dunboy, in Bearhaven, but it is now as well improved as any part of the county.

    Bandon. '^^^ most considerable place in this barony is Bandon,

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 121

56. Marlborough's troops landed at Passage, 1690

    Passage West · town · Cork · 1690

    According to O'Driscoll's History of Ireland and the London Gazette, Marlborough's troops approached Cork via the Passage road in 1690, with the army landing at the Passage on 23rd September.

    Read the passage

    " By the Passage road, according to O'Driscoll {Hist, Ireland) Marlborough's troops " approached Cork in 1690. The London Gazette^ No. 2,598, says on the 23rd Sept. the " army landed * at the Passage,' "

    Hop Island, It is so called (1748) because it belongs to a dancingmaster of Cork (Mr. Boland),^<> who has contrived a fishery between him and the opposite shore that yields much profit. ^s^ Upon a French chart of Cork YidshonXy circe 1690, it is called "Red Island," <^^ (/^«^ Roe in Irish). After Mr. Boland's death, Hop Island became the residence of Mr. De La Maine (of whom more hereafter), and subsequently of Anthony Edwards, the printer who published various interesting local works, " Orange Songs," " New Edition of The Cork Remembrancer^* &c It is curious that when Croker wrote this island was in the parish of Downderrow — {Doonderabhan^ ie,^ " the fortress between the two waters") — within two miles of Kinsale, and nearly twenty miles from itself

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 127

57. Black Monday Insurrection graves at Bandon

    Bandon · town · Cork · 1689–1691

    In Christchurch churchyard at Bandon, inhabitants showed the graves of three of Clancarty's men — John Barry, a sergeant, and two others — who were killed by the townspeople during King James II's time in what was locally called the Black Monday Insurrection.

    Read the passage

    On a tomb in the churchyard, I find that Mr. Thomas Harison, who died anno 1674, bequeated a 10 per ann. to the poor of this parish for ever. They here show the graves of three of Clancarty's men, John Barry, a sergeant and two others, who were killed by the inhabitants in the late King James's time, on what they here call the Black Monday Insurrection, which I shall give a further account of in its place.

    In the other church is a fine monument to the memory of Francis Bernard, esq., one of the justices of the court of common pleas. On the right is a Minerva, reclining on her aegis ; and on the left is Justice, leaning on her arm, her sword in her hand. Over an obelisk of fine Egyptian

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 121

58. Franciscan Abbey founded at Youghal by Maurice Fitz-Gerald

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1231

    The fourth abbey in Youghal was founded by Maurice Fitz-Gerald in 1231 (or 1229 per Hollinshead) for Franciscan friars. In 1460 it was reformed to Observant Friars. The occasion of its establishment was connected with Maurice building a castle in the town.

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    The fourth abbey was founded by Maurice Fitz-Gerald in the year 1231 ; or, according to HoUinshead, in 1229 ; and was in 1460 reformed to Observant Friars, being before that time conventuals of the Franciscan order. The occasion of its establishment is said to be thus: — This Maurice was building a castle in the town, and while they were at work

    townsmen of Youghal, concerning the repair of their walls and fortifications, praying his Majesty would be pleased to grant them the management of the said repairs, and collection of the petty customs, and refer the same to what committee he thought fit, with power to inquire what sums were received and how expended ; and that the petitioners might receive the remainder of the said customs towards repairing the walls and making a platform.

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 52

59. MacCarty More swears fealty to Henry II, 1172

    Cork · city · Cork · 1172

    Diarmuid MacCarty More, king of Cork or Desmond, swore fealty, gave hostages, and subjected his kingdom to a yearly tribute to King Henry II in 1172. The kingdom comprehended all the tract from Lismore to Brandon hills in Kerry.

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    Cork, before the arrival of the Strongbonian conquerors, was a kingdom of itself, the kings of which were the Mac Cartys, that family being found in possession of it by the English. Diarmuid^who was MacCarty More, king of Cork or Desmond, swore fealty, gave hostages, and subjected his kingdom to a yearly tribute to King Henry H. in the year ii72.<"> This kingdom comprehended all that tract of country from Lismore to Brandon hills, in the county of Kerry, where they face the eastern parts of that county. Besides the county of Cork, and the western parts of Waterford, it also comprehended another county, formerly called Desmond ; which county, being now a part of those of Cork and Kerry, it may not be amiss to mention its extent It was divided into three tracts : ist, Clancare, which lay next the sea, between the bay of Dingle and Kilmaire river ; 2nd, Bear, lying between that river and Bantry ; and 3rd, Iveragh or Evaugh, situated between Bantry and Baltimore. There was also another part of it, which lay near the Shannon, being the small barony of Iragticonner. Desmond, in the Irish language, signifies South Munster.

    The Irish antiquarians allow but eight families of royal extraction in Munster, of which they place four in Carbery,<'3) which comprehenrded all the S. W. part of this county : And these were, besides the Mac Cartys above mentioned, O'Mahon or Mahown, O'Donovan and O'Driscoll.^'4) Those Mahowns derive their pedigree from Kean Mac

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you are moving through what was once a kingdom in itself. Before the Strongbow conquest, the Mac Cartys held this place, and the English found that family already in possession. In 1172, Diarmuid MacCarty More, king of Cork or Desmond, swore fealty to King Henry the Second. He gave hostages and subjected his kingdom to a yearly tribute. That kingdom stretched from Lismore all the way to the Brandon hills in Kerry, where they face the eastern parts of that county. Besides the county of Cork and the western parts of Waterford, it took in another county formerly called Desmond, now part of Cork and Kerry. Desmond was divided into three tracts. Clancare lay next the sea, between the bay of Dingle and Kilmaire river. Bear lay between that river and Bantry. Iveragh, or Evaugh, sat between Bantry and Baltimore. There was also a small barony of Iragticonner near the Shannon. Desmond, in the Irish language, means South Munster. The Irish antiquarians allow only eight families of royal extraction in Munster, and they place four in Carbery, which comprehended all the south-west part of this county. Besides the Mac Cartys, these were O'Mahon, O'Donovan, and O'Driscoll.

60. The Mall in Cork described in 1748

    Cork · city · Cork · 1748

    In 1748 the Mall in Cork was paved with hard pebble stones with a row of trees on each side parted by a canal that sent a disagreeable smell when the tide was out. People of fashion walked there as they did on the mall of St. James' Park.

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    " In 1748. The people of fashion walk to and fro on the Mall, as they do on the " mall of St. James' Park, but I'll assure you there is no comparison, for the mall is *' paved with hard pebble stones, little better than ^he. common streets, which are ** ill paved. There is a row of trees on each side parted by a canal that, when the tide " is out, sends a disagreeable smell, at least to us that are strangers to it." — Tour of Two English Gentlemen,

    *' Hanover Street, formerly called * Watergate Lane."'

    Internet Archive ancientandprese00caulgoog, Chapter 229

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, there was a Mall here in 1748 where people of fashion walked to and fro, as they did on the mall of St. James' Park. A writer of the time said there was no comparison. The mall was paved with hard pebble stones, little better than the common streets, which were ill paved. There was a row of trees on each side, parted by a canal that, when the tide was out, sent a disagreeable smell, at least to those who were strangers to it.