The History, Topography and Antiquities of the County and City of Waterford

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Clonea Castle, a well-preserved fortified residence

   Clonea · townland · Waterford

   Near Mothil, the village and castle of Clonea is described as one of the most perfect specimens of an ancient fortified residence, with a quadrangular main building, watch tower, and multiple defensive walls and towers.

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   At the distance of about a mile from Mothil, and in the vicinity of one of the ^mountains of Cummeragh, are the village and castle of Clonea. The castle is one of the most perfect specimens of the ancient fortified residence, and exhibits clearly all the minute arrangements of such dwellings. The principal building is quadrangular and of great height, divided into several stories, which are approached by a flight of stairs within the walls. The watch tower commands a magnificent prospect.

   Outside, and within a few feet of the castle, a strong wall, with circular towers at the angles, inclosed a square piece of ground: this was the first defence, and beyond it were a ditch and moat, a portcullis and fortified keep ; a series of defences, which, l)eforc the use of artillery, must have been

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 127

2. Clough ruins, King John's resting place near Clashmore

   Clashmore · town · Waterford

   In the parish of Aglish near Clashmore stand the ruins of an ancient square fortified building called Clough, said to have been used by King John as a resting place on his journeys between Cork and Waterford.

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   wheel carriages. The intercourse between the monasteries and other religious houses at Ardmore, Clashmore, and Dungaryan, could not have been conveniently kept up, except by the mountainroads, which were the direct modes of communication between those places ; and though it may appear strange to us, that the reverend travellers should expose themselves on this mountain to a motion so unsuitable to their age and habits, yet we can have no reason to question the fact, when we are reminded, that this road, though not an easy, was yet a royal, one, and was the line in which King John and his courtiers travelled, when business or pleasure induced them to cross this part of the county. In the parish of Aglish, at a short distance from Clashmore, are the ruins of an ancient square building, called Clough, which, it is said. King John used as a resting-place in his journies between Cork and Waterford. Clough was a regular fortification, and consisted of a high wall defended by towers at the angles : the entrance, which was protected by a drawbridge, was on the south side; the exterior wall inclosed about half an acre. Amongst the numerous ancient edifices, the remains of which are still discernible in this neighbourhood, may be mentioned the abbey of Clashmore, which was founded by Cuanchear, at the command of Mochoemore of Lethmore, who had raised Cuanchear from the dead: that Saint died 13th of March, A.D. 655.

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 139

3. Cromwell besieges Ross

   New Ross · townland · Wexford · 1649

   Cromwell personally proceeded to lay siege to the town of Ross (New Ross) during his 1649 campaign.

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   was sent to attack the fort of Duncannon, while Cromwell himself proceeded to lay siege to the town of Ross. The town of Carrick was shortly after surprized, and having been taken by a detachment of Cromwell's army, he himself proceeded thither, and from thence crossed over the Suir, and marched to invest Waterford. The citizens, terrified by the approach of a ruthless enemy, began to prepare for their defence, and gladly accepted a reinforcement of 1500 men, under General Ferral, sent by the Marquis of Ormond to their assistance. The troops of, Cromwell, since their arrival in Ireland, had been greatly diminished in numbers, as well by the climate, to which they were not accustomed, as by the destructive warfare in which they had been engaged : the army, when it arrived at Waterford, only amounted to 5000 foot, 2000 horse, and 500 dragoons, yet such was the terror of the timid citizens, they were inclined to submit without awaiting the assault, and actually sent to Ormond to consult about the terms which they should require previous to the surrender of the city. The Marquis of Ormond encouraged them to a vigorous resistance, and by flattering assurances and promises of succour, was successful in inspiring them with firmness and resolution.

   Waterford was a walled and fortified town, and though badly situated in case of a siege according to the improved practice of modern warfare.

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 33

4. Cromwell's forces seize the fort at Passage

   Passage East · townland · Waterford · 1649

   Cromwell dispatched a detachment of dragoons and horse to the town of Passage, six miles south of Waterford, taking the fort that commanded the river and cutting off Waterford's communication with the harbour entrance.

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   The strength of the defences and the numerous batteries protected the town from assault, and compelled the parliamentary forces to have recourse to the tedious process of investment. The Marquis of Ormond, though deficient in money and military stores, and having lost many men by desertion, endeavoured to defend Waterford ; and for this purpose, kept a body of troops on the opposite side of the river, prepared to co-operate with the citizens, and to take advantage of any favourable circumstances which might occur. — During the progress of the siege, which was carried on with vigour, Cromwell dispatched a detachment of his army, consisting of six troops of dragoons and four of horse, to the town of Passage, six miles to the south of the city, and took possession of the fort which commanded the river

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   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 34

5. Decayed and overcrowded gaol at Tallow

   Tallow · town · Waterford

   Tallow's manor gaol, though small with only two apartments, was frequently used as a place of confinement for county prisoners committed by magistrates, with no day room, classification, employment or instruction, and prisoners sometimes held for many weeks.

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   The appearance of Tallow has very little to recommend it. The church is a handsome modern building, and there are a few good private houses; but the public buildings, as the market and sessions house, and the gaol, are in a state of extreme dilapidation. The gaol consists of two apartments, each twenty feet by fifteen : it is a manor gaol, though frequently used as a place of confinement for persons committed by the magistrates of the county. There is no day room, no classification, employment or instruction. On some occasions, prisoners committed by the county magistrates are confined here for many weeks. The manor of Tallow is the property of the Duke of Devonshire, by whom the Seneschal of the town is appointed.

   The seneschal has very rarely occasion to commit to prison, and if those confined in Tallow gaol were only those who come within his jurisdiction, the infrequency of commitments, and their limited duration, would preclude the unpleasant consequences which may now be naturally expected. It is when considered as a county })rison, that the gaol of Tallow requires investigation and reform. It is understood to be the wish of the Duke of Devonshire to erect commodious places of confinement

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 155

6. Declining Town of Passage

   Passage East · townland · Waterford

   The town of Passage, built on a narrow strip of land between the river and a steep hill, is described as declining, with confined streets and poor, neglected houses, though its river offered good anchorage for large vessels.

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   manufactory here, but this and many other projected attempts of the same spirited individual were, unhappily for the country, unsuccessful. Nearer to the sea is Passage, built on a narrow neck of low land between the river and a lofty and precipitous hill which overlooks the town: the streets are confined, and the houses poor and neglected, exhibiting evident marks of a declining place. The church is situated on the summit of the hill, imposing upon its attendants from the town an involuntary breach of Sabbath repose. The river here offers commodious shelter and anchorage for vessels of large burden, which may without difficulty unload at the quay. At Crook, in the vicinity of Passage, there is an ancient castle which belonged to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and was founded in the thirteenth century by the Baron of Curraghmore. The lands connected with this preceptory must have been considerable; for we find that, in the year 15G5, 27 th Queen Elizabeth, a lease of them was granted to Anthony Power, for a term of sixty years, at the annual rent of £12 : 11.9. 10^. Irish money. It is believed, that the Knights of St. John had nine houses in Ireland, three of which were situated in the barony of Gaultier. At a short distance from the coast, and between Passage and the sea, are the barracks and the village of New Geneva. It was originally contemplated by the government of Ireland to establish at this place a

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   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 99

7. Demolition of Old Waterford Cathedral in 1773

   Waterford · city · Waterford · 1773–1779

   In 1773 a committee resolved to demolish the old Waterford Cathedral and build a new one, at an actual cost of £5397; the new structure was fit for service by 1779 though many regretted the destruction of the ancient building.

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   At a meeting of a committee appointed by the council of the corporation, held on the fourteenth of July, 1773, and assisted by the Bishop of Waterford, and the Dean and Chapter, it was resolved, that the old Cathedral Church should be taken down and a new one built in its place.

   The sum proposed to be expended was £4000; the actual expense, including £150 for pulling down the old building, was £5397, defrayed by the Corporation, by the tithes of Cahir, the sale of pews, and by private subscriptions. The new church was fit for service, though not completed in 1779.

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 64

8. Destruction of Butlerstown Castle

   Butlerstown · townland · Cork · 1649

   As Cromwell's army retired from the liberties of Waterford, the castle of Butlerstown, lying in their path, is supposed to have been assailed and partly destroyed by gunpowder, with effects long visible afterward.

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   It was his custom, when he had traced out the route of the main body of his army, to proceed himself, attended by a large force of dragoons, in the most rapid and desultory manner, to the villages and fortified castles which lay within a moderate distance, and there levy contributions, confiscate the lands, or execute summary punishment upon the proprietors, as his pleasure, the wants of his soldiers, or the aspect of his affairs seemed to require. The terror of his name was generally sufficient to ensure submission to his orders wherever he appeared: in the few cases where resistance was to be apprehended, his main army was called to his aid, and never failed to execute immediate and exemplary vengeance. As the array retired from the liberties of Waterford, the castle of Butlerstown, which lay in their course, is supposed to have been assailed and partly destroyed by gunpowder, the effects of which were for a long time visible. Proceeding to Kilmeaden, distant about five miles from the city, Cromwell met the first serious opposition to his career.

   The castle of Kilmeaden, situated on the banks of the Suir, and enjoying a commanding and elevated station, was the residence of a branch of the family of Le Poer, or Power, an ancient and illustrious race who derived their descent in a

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 35

9. Dormitory of St. Declan repaired by Bishop Milles

   Ardmore · town · Waterford

   In the churchyard at Ardmore stands the small, plain 'dormitory of St. Declan', held in great veneration by locals who visit to procure earth believed to cover the saint's relics; it was repaired and roofed about a century earlier at the expense of Bishop Milles.

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   which time he founded an abbey and was made Bishop of Ardmore ; he lived to a great age ; and his successor, St. Ultan, was alive in the year 550. A stone, a holy well, and a dormitory in the churchyard still bear the name of St. Declan. " St. Declan's stone" is on the beach; it is a large rock, resting on two others which elevate it a little above the ground. On the 24th of July, the festival of the saint, numbers of the lowest class do penance on their bare knees around the stone, and some, with great pain and difficulty, creep under it, in expectation of thereby curing or preventing, what it is much more likely to create, rheumatic affections of the back. In the churchyard is the " dormitory of St. Declan," a small low building, held in great veneration by the people in the neighbourhood, who frequently visit it in order to procure some of the earth, which is supposed to cover the relics of the saint. This edifice, which is extremely plain in appearance, was repaired and roofed about a century ago, at the expense of Bishop Milles. " St. Declan's Well" is near the ruins of the church, at some little distance from the village.

   The principal object of interest at Ardmore is the round tower, that opprobrium of antiquaries about which so many conflicting opinions have been advanced, and concerning which nothing has been satisfactorily proved, except the almost total ignorance which exists touching the origin and object of these buildings. The arguments of

   Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 140

10. Earl of Desmond's seizure and expulsion from Dungarvan Castle

    Dungarvan · townland · Waterford

    The Earl of Desmond had made himself master of the castle of Dungarvan, enjoying great influence in the western parts of the county, before being forcibly expelled, later offering his services to Sir Henry Sidney at Dungarvan.

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    After a short stay in Waterford, Sir Henry Sidney proceded to Dungarvan, where he was met by the Earl of Desmond, who offered him his services. This nobleman enjoyed great influence in the western parts of the county, and had made himself master of the castle of Dungarvan, from which he was forcibly expelled. It now suited his interest to afl'ect loyalty to the English government, and it was also convenient to the Lord Deputy to appear to accept his services.

    It required all the wisdom and energy of the government to check the spirit of rebellion which was extending in every direction. The county of Waterford was continually harassed by the tumults

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 25

11. Fortified Castle of Ballyclough

    Ballyclogh · town · Cork

    The ancient castle of Ballyclough, of unknown former owners, was rudely but regularly fortified with a moat and ditch still discernible, with loop-holes and embrasures commanding the hill, and a circular staircase leading to a watch-tower.

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    Within a short distance of Chnrchtown glebe, a woollen manufactory has been recently established; this and another establishment nearer to Carrick are, unfortunately for the country, the only remains of the former trade which at one time flourished here, and which was forced to yield to the distractions of Ireland, but more particularly to the jealousy of the English manufacturers. There are several persons employed by this manufactory, who work at their own homes, thus combining the quiet and innocence of rural life with the wealth and enjoyments of commerce. Turning from the direct road to Clonmell, and having ascended a steep hill, the ancient castle of Ballyclough is seen frowning over the valley. Nothing: is known of its former owners or of the particular purpose for which it was erected, save that it was the work of persons by no means destitute of skill, and who lived in contemplation of wars and tumults. The building was rudely but regularly fortified, being defended by a moat and ditch, which are still discernible, and having all the accessible parts of the hill on which it is erected perfectly commanded by loop-holes and embrasures, which still remain. A circular staircase, in tolerable preservation, conducts to the watch-tower, from which there is an extensive view of a wild nnd uninterestiiii> country. \\c-

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    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 124

12. Founding of the Catholic Committee

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1757–1783

    The Catholic Committee was established in the mid-18th century, said to have been set on foot by Dr. Curry and Mr. Wyse of Waterford, with its first meeting held in Dublin in 1757.

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    The " Catholic Committee," which was established in the middle of this century, is stated to have been originally set on foot by a Dr. Curry and Mr. Wyse, of Waterford. The first meeting was held in Dublin in the year 1757, when only seven gentlemen attended: it was not until the year 1783 that they were formed into the delegated body which afterwards so much distinguished itself.

    It was also about this period, (1759,) that the association since so w^ell known by the designation of the " White Boys," from their parading about the country in white frocks or jackets, the better to distinguish each other by night, first made their appearance in the south of Ireland, spreading insurrection over most parts of Munster. They were also distinguished by the title of" Levellers," from their levelling such hedges or ditches as they thought encroached upon commons, the chief support of the poor at that time. It has been remarked, that they consisted of persons of different persuasions, and were by no means disaffected to their king. They were succeeded, some years aiterwards, by a set of insur-

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dublin, you are moving through a city where the Catholic Committee first met in 1757. It is stated to have been originally set on foot by a Dr. Curry and Mr. Wyse, of Waterford. Only seven gentlemen attended that first meeting in Dublin. It was not until 1783 that they were formed into the delegated body which afterwards so much distinguished itself. It was also about this period, in 1759, that the association since so well known by the designation of the White Boys first made their appearance in the south of Ireland. They took their name from parading about the country in white frocks or jackets, the better to distinguish each other by night. They spread insurrection over most parts of Munster. They were also distinguished by the title of Levellers, from their levelling such hedges or ditches as they thought encroached upon commons, the chief support of the poor at that time. They consisted of persons of different persuasions, and were by no means disaffected to their king. They were succeeded some years afterwards by a set of insurrectionists.

13. Henry VIII grants Waterford a gilt sword and cap of liberty

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1536

    In 1536, Henry VIII sent the mayor and citizens of Waterford a gilt sword and a cap of liberty (maintenance) to be borne before the mayor in state, as marks of favour for their loyalty, delivered by William Wise, a Waterford gentleman in high favour at court.

    Read the passage

    In 1536, Henry VIII. wrote to the mayor and citizens by William Wise, a gentleman of Waterford, then in high favour at court, and conferred upon them a gilt sword, and also a cap of liberty, to be borne before the mayor when he walked in state.

    These honourable badges of loyalty were intended as special marks of favour to the citizens of that time, and are still carefully preserved, and highly valued by their descendants.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 18

14. Holy Ghost Hospital incorporated after suppression of Franciscan friary

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1546

    After the suppression of the Franciscan (Grey Friars) monastery, the Hospital of the Holy Ghost was incorporated in its place by patent in 1546; Henry Walsh had purchased the former monastery in trust for the master, brethren and poor of the hospital.

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    After the suppression of the monastery of the Franciscans, or Grey Friars, the master, brethren, and poor of the Hospital of the Holy Ghost were incorporated in their place, by patent dated 15th August, 36 Henry VIII. (1546.) We may collect from this patent, and another of the same monarch, dated 7th of September, of the same year, that Henry Walsh had purchased the house or monastery of the Franciscans, together with all the property which anciently belonged to it, in trust for the master, brethren and poor of the hospital, who were to pay annually for the same eight shillings Irish money, in addition to a former sum of £150 : 13 : 4, the consideration for which the grant was made. According to the

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    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 79

15. Incorporation of Dungarvan under Edward IV, 1463

    Dungarvan · townland · Waterford · 1463–1659

    Dungarvan was incorporated by an Act of Parliament in 1463, which described the seignory of Dungarvan as the most great and ancient honour belonging to the king in Ireland; privileges were renewed by James I for loyalty during Elizabeth's rebellion, and again in 1659.

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    Without depending too much upon the traditional antiquity of this place, there are many authentic records to assure us that Dungarvan was a considerable town, so early as the reign of Edward the Fourth (1463). In this year, Dungarvan was incorporated by an Act of Parliament still preserved, which recites that " the seignory of Dungarvan was the most great and ancient honor belonging to the king in Ireland." All the ])rivileges which the citizens enjoyed under this act were renewed to them by James tlic First, as a reward for their fidelity to the crown, during the rebellion in the reign of (^uecu Iiliizabetli. The

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    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 130

16. John erects castle at Lismore

    Lismore · townland · Waterford · 1185

    To check insurrection, John erected fortified castles in various places, including one at Lismore on the site of the present noble building, later the occasional residence of the Duke of Devonshire.

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    John landed at Waterford, for the first time, on the 1st April, 1185, attended by many of the principal nobility of England, and a considerable force of knights and archers. In order to check the frequency of insurrections, by establishing English garrisons throughout the disturbed districts, he erected fortified castles in various places. One of these, at Lismore, was on the site of the present noble building, now the occasional residence of the Duke of Devonshire.

    Many of the Irish chiefs waited upon John to congratulate him on his arrival ; they were disposed to receive him favourably, and to submit themselves to his authority ; they were satisfied to consider the King of England as their sovereign.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 6

17. King John's palace on the site of the Widows' Apartments

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1211

    During his 1211 residence in Waterford, King John's palace was situated where the Widows' Apartments later stood; vaults and foundations of the royal residence were discovered when workmen prepared the ground for the present building.

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    nities are conferred upon the citizens ; among others, that no itinerant justices, nor justices of assize in the county of Waterford, should for the future vex or disturb the citizens, or oblige them to appear without the bounds of the city, either at the King's suit, or at the suit of any other complainant. By the whole tenor of this patent it appears, that it was only a recital and confirmation of former liberties and franchises granted to the citizens of Waterford. This charter expressly mentions the county of Waterford as a distinct district from the city. In the year 1211, on the 6th of June, King John landed at Waterford, with the intention of settling the disturbances which had arisen during his absence. While he resided here, his palace was situated where the Widows' Apartments now stand. Some of the vaults and parts of the foundation of the royal residence were discovered when the workmen were preparing the ground for the present building. — The King proceeded with considerable activity to arrange the affairs of Ireland, and personally visited many parts of the country, attended by a large body of knights and soldiers. Near Clashmore, may still be seen the ruins of a large square building, where the royal cavalcade was accustomed to halt when travelling from Waterford to Cork.

    King John, during his residence here, made a large addition to the city of Waterford ; some of

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 7

18. Mayor Mason clears rubbish and pave roads in Waterford

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1696

    On becoming mayor, Mr. Mason found the houses in ruins and streets full of rubbish and dunghills; he had these nuisances removed and the roads leading to the city levelled, paved, and bridged.

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    son, on his succeeding to the mayoralty, in 1690. To use the words of the same manuscript — " the houses were in ruins, the streets uneven, full of rubbish and dunghills; — he caused those nuisances to be removed — the high roads leading to the city to be levelled and new paved, and bridges made in many places of the said roads, to carry off the sloughs and superfluous waters, insomuch (the writer continues) that they were a pattern for the whole kingdom."

    Waterford has never been very celebrated for its manufactures. In early times, when agriculture was much neglected, trading in cattle was the staple commodity — much attention was likewise paid to the butter business, and in both these articles a brisk trade was carried on, not only with the English settlements, but also with several of the ports of Spain. Of late years, however, owing to the West Indies getting their live stock from America, the Irish trade in that line has considerably decreased.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 85

19. New Affane's association with Sir Walter Raleigh

    Affane · townland · Waterford

    New Affane was associated with Sir Walter Raleigh, having been his property, presented to him by one of the ancient proprietors of Dromana, though it is unclear if it remained in his possession.

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    Of New Affane, associated as it is with the recollection of Sir Walter Raleigh, it would be satisfactory to be able to give some detailed information : that it was his property, presented to him by one of the ancient proprietors of Dromana, we have unquestionable authority for asserting ; whether it continued in his possession, and partook of the improvement which his cultivated taste was so well qualified to bestow upon it, we have not sufficient grounds to enable us to determine.

    Amongst the traditional wonders of this part of the county, it may not be amiss to mention, without demanding a too implicit credence to the minuter circumstances connected with the narrative, two remarkable works of which the traces are still discernible. The first is a large double trench, called, in Irish, Rian Bo Padriuc, or the trench of St. Patrick's Cow. This road or trench commences eastward of Knockmeledown, passes through the Deer Park of Lismore, and, crossing the Blackwater near Tourin, where the remains of laborious workmanship may still be seen, proceeds in a direct line to Ardmore. — There is an unfortunate discrepancy in the traditions concerning this curious trench ; some asserting that it was the work of St. Patrick's cow, on her way to Ardmore, in search of her calf which had been stolen, while others are more inclined to believe that the cow had been carried

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 154

20. Poor fishing villages of the Gaultier coast

    Ballymacaw · townland · Waterford

    The villages of Portally, Rathmoylan, Ballymacaw, and Summerville, occupied mainly by fishermen, were described as home to a poor and almost unemployed peasantry vacillating between agriculture and fishing.

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    sidence of a poor and almost unemployed peasantry, vacillating between agriculture and fishing, and consequently unsuccessful in both. From the prevalence of south and south-west winds, to which this coast is directly exposed, and from the want of convenient harbours, these villages are unprofitable as fishing stations during the greater part of the year.

    On the appearance of foul weather, the fishermen are obliged to draw up their boats on the beach, and are thus limited in their operations by this additional labour, as well also as by the fear of violent and unexpected storms, against which they have no resource : had they a safe anchorage, into which they could run in bad weather, they might, with little trouble or apprehension, venture into the deep sea, where fish is always to be found.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla

21. Rebel printing press under Thomas Bourke in Waterford

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1643–1644

    In 1644 the Irish rebels operated a printing press in Waterford under the superintendence of Thomas Bourke, an Irish printer, who also printed a 1643 pamphlet as printer to the confederate Catholics of Ireland.

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    There can, however, be no doubt that printing was known in Waterford in the early part of the subsequent century. Cox, in his History of Ireland, mentions, that in 1644 the rebels had a printing press in Waterford, which was under the superintendence of Thomas Bourke, an Irish printer : and Harris, in his Hibernica, alludes to a quarto publication, entitled " An Argument delivered by Patrick Darcy, Esq. by express order of the House of Commons, on the 9th of June, 1641," which is stated, on the title-page, to have been printed at Waterford, by " Thomas Bourke, printer to the confederate Catholics of Ireland J" 1643.

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    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 23

22. Ruinous Holy Ghost Hospital Church with Ancient Tombstones

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1570–1599

    A ruined church, now used for apartments for the poor of the Holy Ghost Hospital, contains ancient monuments including a 1570 tombstone with heraldic decoration and an inscription commemorating a citizen of Waterford who died in 1597.

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    the ground, by which the upper part of the church and cemetery are cut off, and converted into apartments for the use of the poor of the Holy Ghost Hospital.

    The antiquary and the grave digger will now alone venture into this gloomy place, where however there are some monuments which deserve examination.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 58

23. Squatter settlement on the Drum mountain common

    Drum · townland · Donegal

    The vast common of Drum mountain, unclaimed by any individual proprietor, has been appropriated by strangers, beggars and outcasts who built huts and cultivated small plots, becoming de facto freeholders; popular tradition held the land was reserved by Queen Anne for the relief of Ireland's poor.

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    Parcels of this land have, from time to time, been added to the adjacent property; but a more important appropriation has been made by strangers, beggars, and outcasts from other places, who have built huts or hovels, cultivated a small portion of ground, and tlms recurring to

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    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 138

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the mountain common, strangers, beggars and outcasts from other places built huts and cultivated small plots of ground, making the land their own. Parcels of it had been added to adjacent property, but these people took what no individual proprietor claimed. Tradition held that Queen Anne reserved this land for the relief of Ireland's poor.

24. Standing Stone and Traditions Near Curraghmore

    Curraghmore · townland · Waterford

    A large standing stone, raised at least eight feet above ground, stands near the last gate of Curraghmore. Country traditions attribute marks on it to an inscription or to fingers of gigantic beings who erected it.

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    About half a mile distant from the last gate, on an eminence which commands a splendid view of the Earl of Bessborough's improvements in the county of Kilkenny, and on the left hand side of the road, stands a stone of considerable magnitude, raised at least eight feet above the level of the ground. There are various traditions among the country people with regard to the causes of elevation of this stone, and the agents who were employed in the work, but all of them too absurd to deserve notice here. Certain marks on one side of it, have by some been imagined to make part of an inscription, now almost entirely defaced ; by others they are said to be the marks left by the

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    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 121

25. Subterranean passage and sepulchre near Knockaderry

    Knockaderry · street · Clare

    Near Knockaderry, a subterranean passage hollowed from rock, linked to Druidic superstition, led to a curious sepulchre found beneath a cairn, consisting of six square stones joined in a box shape containing human bones, some of which appeared burned.

    Read the passage

    Near Knockaderry, a subterraneous passage is hollowed out of the rock, and seems to have had some connection with the Druidic superstition. A curious sepulchre was discovered here beneath a cairn or heap of stones ; it consisted of six square stones joined together in form of a box, and contained human bones, some of which appeared to have been burned.

    Near Whitfield were lately discovered two stone chambers, somewhat resembling the monument at New Grange near Droghcda, described by Ledwich.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 114

26. The Ancient Tomb of 1548 in Lismore Cathedral

    Lismore · townland · Waterford · 1548

    A highly-ornamented tomb dated 1548, originally raised above ground but now laid flat, survives in the unfinished transept of the cathedral, decorated with figures of the Apostles and religious imagery including a pierced heart and an Ecce Homo figure.

    Read the passage

    Only one ancient monument has escaped the ravages of time : it is a highly-ornamented tomb, which was originally raised above the ground, but is now laid flat, and surrounded by the side stones. The date, 1548, is legible; but the inscription, which runs round the stone, can be only very partially deciphered :

    3101)021 ^'CBvatl) iiuoc IxiUljcriua

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 146

27. Waterford destroyed by fire twice in the 13th century

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1252–1282

    The city of Waterford was destroyed by fire in 1252, and again about thirty years afterwards, amid a period otherwise marked by murders and insurrections.

    Read the passage

    The city of Waterford was destroyed by fire in the year 1252, and again in about thirty years afterwards : if to these misfortunes we add a long list of murders and insurrections, we shall have all that requires any notice until nearly the close of the fourteenth century. In 1336, James, the first Earlof Ormond, founded the Friary of Little Carig, in the county of Waterford, for Minorites, of which John Clyn, author of the Annals of Ireland, was the first guardian. Two other Friaries were also founded within the walls of the city about this period, namely, the Dominican Friary of St. Saviour, and the Holy Ghost Friary.

    In the year 1394, on the 2d of October, Richard II. landed at Waterford, with an army of 4000 men at arms, and 30,000 archers, and attended by the Duke of (Gloucester, the Earls of Not-

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 8

28. Waterford granted right to strike coins at Reynold's Tower

    Reginald's Tower · man-made feature · Waterford · 1463

    An act permitted small coins to be struck at Waterford in a place called Dondory, alias Reynold's Tower, matching those made in Dublin and Trim castles, bearing the inscription 'Civitas Waterford.' This was intended to relieve pecuniary difficulties and prevent coin clipping.

    Read the passage

    within the castles of Trim and Dublin, goes on : " Now, as the mayor, bailiffs, and commons of Waterford are daily encumbered for want of small coins for change of greater, it is enacted, at their petition, that the above mentioned small coins be struck at Waterford, in a place called Dondory, alias Reynold's Tower, and that they be made of the same weight, print, and size, as is mentioned in the said act, to be done in the castles of Dublin and Trim, and that they shall have this scripture, Civitas Waterford." The value of these coins was raised one-fourth above their former value and the currency of England — a miserable expedient, intended to relieve the pecuniary difficulties of the kingdom, and to prevent the practice of clipping money.

    During this reign (1463), the town of Dungarvan was incorporated by act of parliament, which recites, that " as the seignory of Dungarvan was the most great and ancient honour, belonging to the king in Ireland, which through war was, for the most part, destroyed, it is provided, that the portrieve and commons of the said town, their heirs, &c. may enjoy all manner of free gifts and customs, as the inhabitants of the honourable manor of Clare, in England, have used and enjoyed, and as the mayor and commons of Bristol have done ; the profits to go to the reparation of the walls, under the survey of the Earl of Desmond.'^

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 10

29. Wretched state of Dungarvan's streets and lack of bridge

    Dungarvan · townland · Waterford

    Until recently, Dungarvan's streets and buildings were of the most wretched description, crowded with miserable houses, lacking regular markets, public water-works, a safe court-house, or a bridge, forcing people to ford the river at low water.

    Read the passage

    and buildings were of the most wretched description, and they continued in the same state until a very few years since. Crowded with miserable houses, irregular in appearance, without any or at all events an inefficient police, Dungarvan deserved the reproachful epithets which travellers universally bestowed upon it. There were no regular market-places, no public water-works : the court-house, where the sessions are occasionally held, was considered unsafe for the purposes for which it was originally intended : there was no bridge, and consequently no way of passing from the town to the Waterford side of the river, except by a ferry boat, or, as was generally the case with the lower classes, by fording the stream at low water. This custom, particularly as practised by females, gave rise to ridiculous and indelicate jests, which served to impress upon travellers an unfavourable opinion of the inhabitants of the town. In addition to all this, the population were without employment, the fishery neglected, and the prisons were a disgrace to a civilized country.

    Such was Dungarvan, when the present proprietor of the manor, his Grace the Duke of Devonshire, directed his attention to its improvement. The first great work effected was the erection of a magnificent bridge across the river, at a little distance above the town, where it should not interfere with the approach of the shipping. The river, or rather arm of the sea, is crossed by a

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 131

30. 1551 Reformation Changes at Waterford Cathedral

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1551

    The new liturgy was introduced in Waterford in 1551 and altars were abolished; commissioners appointed to enforce reformation regulations were said to have taken much valuable church property for themselves.

    Read the passage

    The important changes connected with the reformation are very imperfectly handed down to us: the new liturgy was generally introduced in 1551, and at the same time the altars were every where abolished ; a community of agreement, which Hume insinuates is mainly to be attributed to the desire of plunder. Commissioners were appointed to enforce the act, and to accommodate the appearance of the Churches and the forms of worship to the newly introduced regulations of the Reformers. These matters are not clearly recorded ; it is, however, known that a vast quantity of valuable property was taken by the Commissioners appointed by Government to remove the relics and ornaments, with which the Churches were then crowded, and much of the wealth so taken was appropriated to the use of the Commissioners themselves. It was perhaps to guard against any such plunder of the property still left to the Church, the use of which was not allowed, that an agreement to the follow-

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 60

31. 1641 Rebellion Plunders Waterford Cathedral

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1641–1646

    During the 1641 rebellion and subsequent 'troubles', the estates and moveable property of Waterford Cathedral were plundered by enemies and possibly professed friends of the establishment, leading to loss of documents and revived disputes over church finances.

    Read the passage

    The events connected with the rebellion and wars of 1641, emphatically called, the troubles, are next to be noticed. It appears that the estates and moveable property of the Cathedral were entirely plundered by the enemies, and perhaps by the professed friends, of the establishment, who took advantage of the disordered state of affairs, at, and subsequent to this time, to appropriate the wealth of public bodies to private or personal uses. In consequence of the loss of agreements, leases, and other documents, the disputes which previously existed between the Dean and Chapter and the Corporation were again revived, and we learn from a petition dated 12th October, 1646, which sets forth the exhausted finances of the Cathedral, that the Mayor, council, and commons of the city of Waterford had refused to contribute to the repairs of the Church, to pay the Organist and to satisfy the annuity of ten pounds per annum, which, in consequence of the disturbances and also the poverty of the Corporation, had not been demanded since the year 1641. This is an important document, and from the course of pro-

    Iv

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 62

32. Abandoned planned town of Newtown

    Newtown · townland · Waterford

    At Newtown, near Kilmacthomas, a town was planned with streets marked out and paved and a few houses erected, but all but one have since gone to ruin.

    Read the passage

    In the parish of Rosmeer, a narrow strip of land which separates the two divisions of Upperthird, are situated Kilmacthomas and Newtown. At the latter place it was intended to build a town, probably as being on the confines of three baronies ; streets were marked out and paved, and a few houses erected, all of which have long since gone to ruin, except one.

    * This barony is divided into thirteen parishes — Rosmeer, Fevvs, Stradbally, Kilrossinta, Kilgobonet, Clonea, Dungarvan, Colligan, Seskinan, Modelligo, White Church, Kilrusli, Affane.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 127

33. Barrack erected near Dromana House

    Dromana · townland · Waterford

    A barrack was built a short distance from Dromana House, garrisoned by an officer and twenty-one men, described as a sad proof of the disturbances of the times.

    Read the passage

    The demesne is of great extent and magnificent in all its parts; the plantations have been arranged with judgment, and with particular attention to the grouping of the different trees. A sad proof of the disturbances of the times is seen in a barrack erected at a short distance from the house, in which were quartered an officer and twentyone men.

    There are here very favourable circumstances for the geological inquirer who wishes to observe the relative position of the rocks in this district.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 136

34. Charter of incorporation granted to Waterford, 1206

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1206

    In the seventh year of his reign, King John granted a charter of incorporation to Waterford, conferring various privileges and immunities upon its citizens.

    Read the passage

    but SO little were their spirits subdued, they could not brook even the appearance of insult from their conquerors, and actually engaged in rebellion, because the young English nobles laughed at their beards and uncombed hair. John soon exhibited proofs of his incapacity for government ; he despoiled some of the Irish of their lands, and parcelled them among his followers ; the revenues appropriated to the defence of the country he bestowed upon his courtiers, who wasted them in riot and extravagance : he thus disgusted his friends, and weakened his own resources, and the example of indolence and debauchery being followed by the army, every thing seemed to portend the ruin of the English interests. John was only nineteen years of age at this time, and though assisted by many learned men, among whom was Giraldus Cambrensis, his indiscretions cannot excite in us much surprize. — The King, informed of these disorders, recalled his son and his dissolute attendants, and committed the government to John de Courcy, an active and experienced soldier.* When John was seated on the throne of England, his attention was again directed to the affairs of this country. In the seventh year of his reign (1206) he granted a charter of incorporation to Waterford, by which the city and also various privileges and immu-

    ' * John returned to England in December, J 185.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 6

35. Coolnamuck Castle Built by Giraldus Wale

    Coolnamuck · townland · Kilkenny

    The ruins of a castle at Coolnamuck, built by Giraldus Wale, whose tomb is shown in the Carrickbeg monastery, remain preserved by descendants of the ancient proprietor.

    Read the passage

    Nothing can exceed the beauty of the country on the county Waterford side of the Suir between Carrick and Clonmell. The road passes close to the river and at the foot of a lofty range of hills, planted with flourishing trees, or clothed to the summit with the most luxuriant vegetation. The oak seems to thrive here remarkably well ; even on the sides of the hill where the rock is near the surface, they are strong and vigorous : at Coolnamuck there are some very fine trees. The ruins of a castle built by Giraldus Wale, whose tomb is shewn in the ancient monastery of Carrickbeg, add considerably to the natural beauties of the demesne of Coolnamuck, and are preserved by the respectable descendant of the ancient proprietor, with perhaps a too cautious fidelity.

    At Churchtown, within a part of the ancient place of worship, — which, with a degree of taste not usually observable in modem ecclesiastical buildings, has been preserved, and adjoins the new parish church, — there are two very singular monu-

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 123

36. Cromwellian Commissioners Govern Waterford

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1650–1656

    From 1650 until 1656, the city of Waterford was governed by commissioners appointed by Oliver Cromwell, with the traditional government by mayor and sheriffs abolished.

    Read the passage

    The terms granted to the citizens were favourable; their persons and private property were preserved. The violence of the parliamentary army was chiefly directed against the churches, works of art, and remnants of antiquity; even the tombs of the dead were plundered or mutilated by their savage hands, and in cases where they could not plunder, they were contented to destroy. The city of Waterford was, from this period until the year 1C5G, governed by commissioners appointed by Oliver Cromwell: the accustomed mode of government by mayor and sheriffs was abolished, and in its place was substituted the mere pleasure of the creatures of the

    84 IIISTOUICAL SKETCH.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 38

37. Druidical enclosure at Drumlohan

    Drumlohan · townland · Waterford

    At Drumlohan is an oval enclosure 182 feet in length and 133 feet in breadth, with a large central stone surrounded by smaller ones, believed to be a relic of Druidical works.

    Read the passage

    About two miles to the south-west of Stradbally are the ruins of a castle, called, in Irish, the house of fortification : it is situated on a very steep cliff, which overhangs the sea, and was defended on the land side by a deep trench, over which was a draw-bridge. This castle was built by the Fitzgeralds, and was inhabited at no very remote period. A little beyond this, near the river Dallygan, there stood for many years a representation of a human figure, rudely cut out of a rock ; it was considered by the country people as the image of a saint, and was presented by travellers with a green branch, a leaf, or flower, and a heap of these always lay before it. It was afterwards removed, and cast into the sea. There are in this parish the relics of Druidical works, if we may judge from their appearance. At Drumlohan is an inclosure of an oval form, 1S2 feet in kiigtii and 133 feet in

    304 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 129

38. Earl of Cork's Re-edification of Youghal Church and College House

    Youghal · town · Cork

    The Earl of Cork re-edified the great decayed church of Youghal, which townsmen had used to keep their cows during the rebellion, and built a new chapel there, calling it one of the fairest churches in Ireland. He also rebuilt the College-house of Youghal with five new turrets and platforms for ordnance.

    Read the passage

    Imprimis, The Earl of Corke hath re-edified the great decayed church of Yoiighal, wherein the townsmen in time of rebellion kept their cows, and hath erected a new chappel there in, and made it one of the fairest churches in Ireland.

    He hath also new built the College-house of Youghal, and added five turrets thereunto, and raised platforms of earth fit to plant any ordnance upon, which may command the town and harbour.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 147

39. Failed embankment on Tramore back strand by Bartholomew Rivers

    Tramore · town · Waterford

    Bartholomew Rivers had banked in about seventy acres of the back strand of Tramore, but within weeks a terrible smell arose from putrefying fish cut off from the tides. The bank was poorly built with no proper foundation or sluices, leading to the work's destruction.

    Read the passage

    It is a certain fact respecting that part of the back strand of Tramore, marked A in the sketch, which, many years ago, had been and continued for some time banked in by the late Bartholomew Rivers, Esq. that in about three weeks or a month after it was inclosed, a most intolerable smell proceeded from it, occasioned, as it afterwards appeared on examination, from the putrifaction of small fish, &c. deprived of their food and support by the shutting out of the tides. This piece of ground contained about seventy acres, but the bank (the remains of which are still visible) was badly executed ; the foundation was not carefully attended to, and no sufficient precaution taken to guard against high tides, or to let them off by proper sluices, when they flowed over or broke through the bank ; — the result was, the destruction of the work.

    It must be satisfactory to those who may wish to forward and encourage the embankment at Tramore, to be informed, that in every instance which has come to the writer's knowledge where a work of such a description has been well and carefully executed, considerable profit, far exceeding an adequate return for the money expended, has been uniformly made.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 165

40. House of Industry established to relieve and confine the poor

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1779

    The House of Industry was erected in Waterford in 1779 for £1500, functioning as a corporation for relieving the poor and punishing vagabonds and sturdy beggars for the county and city of Waterford.

    Read the passage

    This house was erected in the year 1779, at an expense of £1500. It is under the management of a general board of governors, the Bishop of -Waterford president; and- by the Acts 11th and 12th Geo. III. is formed into a corporation, under the denomination of the '* President and Assistants instituted for the Relief of the Poor, and for punishing Vagabonds and Sturdy Beggars, for the County and .County of the City of Waterford."

    A general meeting of the corporation is held on the first Thursday of every month, and oftener if necessary, for the purpose of examining such vagrants and other improper persons as may have been sent into the house during the preceding month, by committals from different members of the corporation ; and who either confirm the committals of such persons, or discharge them, if they are found to be irregularly committed, or if they give security to behave better for the future, or, if strangers, they promise to go to their native places, and be no longer troublesome to the city. The business of these meetings is also to examine

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 81

41. Irish troops mustered under Waterford commanders sent to France

    Waterford · city · Waterford

    An extensive levy of Irish troops was made under the command of two gentlemen of Waterford county, the Lord Power and Surlocke or Sherlock, who were sent to serve Henry VIII in his French wars, engaging in brutal irregular warfare.

    Read the passage

    an extensive levy of men was ordered to be made in Ireland ; a politic arrangement, as well for the overthrow of his majesty's foreign enemies, as for the peace and security of his own distracted country. The Irish troops were quickly collected, and sent into England, under the command of two gentlemen of this county ; the Lord Power and Surlocke or Sherlock, names well known in the annals of Waterford. Seven hundred wild Irish, mustered and reviewed in St. James's Park, must have excited not a little amazement!

    But it was in the enemy's country, that their services were most extraordinary; they carried on an irregular and predatory warfare, ranging through the country, plundering and burning the villages, and in every case refusing quarter to their prisoners, whom they murdered without pity. They also acted as purveyors to the army, and practised the following method to procure a supply of food. Having taken a bull, they fastened him to a stake and scorched him with burning faggots ; the cries of the enraged animal attracted the cattle in every direction, which were then easily taken, and conveyed to the camp. The French, amazed at this unusual species of warfare, sent a herald to King Henry, to inquire whether his followers were men or devils, for that they could neither be won with rewards or pacified with pity. The king replied in jest, which so enraged the French, that they treated the Irish

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 21

42. Iron mines at Ardmore let for 50l. per annum in 1636

    Ardmore · town · Waterford · 1636

    According to the first Earl of Cork's diary, valuable iron mines at Ardmore, which produced metal later converted into esteemed steel, were let in 1636 at fifty pounds per annum; copper and lead mines were also worked there.

    Read the passage

    where found in situ. Between the mountain and the sea, limestone again occurs, probably a portion of the formation before-mentioned, and only separated from it by the elevation of the land. The limestone extends into the sea. The junction of the limestone with the slate was originally marked by a small stream, which has since been diverted from its course. Mineral veins, containing lead, iron, and copper ore, were formerly worked in this barony, and are said to have been very productive. Iron mines were opened in several places : at Minehead, so called from the adjacent works, and at Ardmore, very valuable metal was procured, which was afterwards converted into steel, and was highly esteemed. It appears from a note in the first Earl of Cork's diary, that his iron mines at Ardmore were let, in 1636, at 50/. per annum. Copper and lead mines were also worked at Ardmore, and from the fragments which are still found, it is supposed that the ores are very rich.

    COSHMORE AND COSHIIRIDE.*

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 143

43. Peaceable poor population of Drum mountain

    Drum · townland · Donegal

    The numerous population residing on and near Drum mountain were described as peaceable and industrious, free from the crime that pervaded richer districts, though suspicious of strangers and living in near-total freedom from legal restraint.

    Read the passage

    The improvement and final settlement of this tract of country is a matter well worthy the serious attention of the government. The numerous population who now reside on and near this mountain are peaceable and industrious, and though far removed from the terrors of the law, unstained by any portion of that crime which, strange to say, generally pervades the richest and most cultivated districts. The tenants of this wild heath, though suspicious of strangers, and impatient of opposition or encroachment, are kind and hospitable in their manners, and zealous in proffering their services to those who visit them, when perfectly convinced that their object is not to strip them of their rights. Still it would be absurd to imagine, that the almost total freedom from restraint which exists here may not, on some future occasion, generate disturbance ; and equally unreasonable would it be to expect that smuggling, and other illicit practices, should not prevail on a wild and unprotected coast. The interests of the poor people who have settled on this mountain, should be scrupulously regarded; while, at the same time, means should be employed to bring them and their possessions within the range and the protection of the laws. To effect these desirable ob-

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 138

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Drum, you're passing through country that once caught a writer's attention for its people rather than its landscape. The population living on and near the mountain were described as numerous, peaceable and industrious, untouched by the crime that the writer found in richer and more cultivated districts. They were suspicious of strangers and impatient of encroachment, yet kind and hospitable once satisfied a visitor meant no harm to their rights. The writer noted that these people lived in almost total freedom from legal restraint, far from the terrors of the law, and warned that this could one day generate disturbance. Smuggling and other illicit practices, he said, were to be expected on a wild and unprotected coast. He urged the government to bring the settlers and their possessions within the range and protection of the laws, while scrupulously regarding the interests of the poor people who had made their homes on the mountain.

44. Retaking Passage from Cromwell's Forces

    Passage East · townland · Waterford · 1649

    After the loss of Passage, Governor Ferral marched from Waterford to retake it, expecting support from Colonel Wogan at Duncannon Fort. The citizens' refusal to aid Ormond's reinforcements nearly led to disaster for the retreating troops.

    Read the passage

    The loss of Passage being attended with serious inconvenience, it became necessary to endeavour to retake it; and for this purpose, the governor, Ferral, marched with a body of troops from Waterford, expecting to be assisted by Colonel Wogan, of Duncannon Fort, who was to advance to the attack from the opposite side of the river. Previous to the advance of the Governor's force, the Marquis of Ormond, attended l)y fifty horse, had crossed the river, with tlic intention of animating the garrison, nnd of making arrangement.'*

    74 HISTORICAL SKETCH.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 35

45. Richard II lands at Waterford with a great army, 1394

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1394

    Richard II landed at Waterford on 2 October 1394 with an army of 4000 men-at-arms and 30,000 archers, attended by the Duke of Gloucester and other noblemen.

    Read the passage

    In the year 1394, on the 2d of October, Richard II. landed at Waterford, with an army of 4000 men at arms, and 30,000 archers, and attended by the Duke of (Gloucester, the Earls of Not-

    20 HISTORICAL SKETCH.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 8

46. Ruined church of Kilmurrin built by St. Murina

    Kilmurrin · townland · Waterford

    Murina, sister of St. Baramedan and equally esteemed for piety, resided in this parish and built a church near the sea whose ruins are still discernible, giving the place the name Kilmurrin.

    Read the passage

    The parish of Kilbarrymeaden derives its name from a church which was built here by St. Baramedan. The Irish word cill, pronounced kill, signifies a church, abbey or place set apart for religious purposes. The land which belonged to this church has long been highly venerated by the common people, who attribute to it many surprizing qualities. It is said that a notorious robber, whenever he passed through this place, used to wash his horse's hoofs and legs in the first water which he chanced to meet, lest his haunts should be discovered in consequence of his being guilty of sacrilege, in carrying away a portion of the holy clay. There is a "well here, sacred to St. Baramedan, frequently resorted to by pilgrims, who ascribe many virtues to its waters. Murina, a sister of this Saint, and equally esteemed for piety, also resided in this parish. A church, the ruins of which are still discernible, built by her near the sea, gives to the place the name of Kilmurrin. An image of this saint, rudely carved out of a rock, may be seen in a cave near Dunbrattin : the place is often resorted to by the neighbouring people.

    A recent discovery of limestone at Tankardstown, near the sea coast, promises great advantages to the neighbouring country.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 115

47. Templar Preceptory at Killure

    Killure · townland · Waterford · 1100–1199

    A preceptory of the Knights Templar was founded at Killure in the twelfth century, later passing to the Knights Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem and becoming a commandery.

    Read the passage

    According to the charter of Charles I. the city of Waterford, that part of the county of Kilkenny which is contained within the bounds of the parish of Kilculliheen, also the great port of the city of Waterford, which enters between Rodybanke and Rindoane to Carrick by water, and all the lands within Ballinakill, Killure, Kilbarry, and Killoteran constitute the county of the city of Waterford and are entirely distinct from and independent of the county of Waterford and the county of Kilkenny. Within the liberties of Waterford, there is little which demtinds much notice. From the lofty hills on the north of the river, the city appears to the greatest advantage: the accompanying view is taken from Cromwell's rock, of which, in passing, it may he observed, that, if history may be depended on, Cromwell was never at that place. On the south of the Suir, are the ruins of two houses or preceptories of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem. One of these buildings, situated at Killure, was founded in the twelfth century, for the templars ; it was afterwards given to the knights hospitallers and became a commandery. At Kilbarry, another prcccptory was founded, about the same time, for knights tem-

    228- TOPOGUAIMIY AND ANTIQUITIES.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 94

48. Waterford citizens seek exemption from Earl of Kildare's jurisdiction

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1488

    The mayor and citizens of Waterford told Sir Richard Edgecombe they feared the Earl of Kildare, an enemy of their city, and asked to be exempted from his jurisdiction and that of all other Irish lords, holding directly of the king instead.

    Read the passage

    shewid, that they understood that the seyd Sir Richard had brought wyth hym the king's pardon for the Erl of Kildare, whych haith always bene, and is, an utter enemie to the seyd citty, and especially for their approved loyalty towards the kyng's grace, as they say ; and that when he were sworn, and become the kyng's sub get, though he were not made deputy of that lond, yet for the atchieving of his purposed malice agenst the seyd citty, they knew well, that he wuld make such means, that he shuld be made justice of that lond, and thereby he shuld have souch authority, that he wuld find the means by hym and his frends utterly to undoe the seyd citty, and desired especially the seyd Sir Richard that he wuld be the means to the kyng's grace to be their good and gracious lord therein, and that they mought be exempt from the jurisdiction, as well of the seyd Erl, if it fortuned hym to have any rtde ther herafter, as of all othir Irish lordes, that shuld bear any rule in that lond for evirmore, and to hold immediately of the kyng and his heirs, and of such lordes of Englounde, as shall fortune herafter to have the rule of Irelound, and of none othirs. To the whych, the seyd Sir Richard answcrid and said, that the kyng's grace had given to hym in especiale commaundment to doo and see especiale for the seyd citty of Waterford, and therfore, and for their approved troughthes he wuld labour unto the kyng's grace in this bchaulf, as mouch as was

    30 HISTORICAL SKETCH.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 13

49. Waterford's refusal to aid Lord Deputy Sidney near Clonmel

    Clonmel · town · Tipperary

    The disaffection of Waterford was first shown when the city refused to assist Lord Deputy Sidney, who was encamped near Clonmel expecting attack from insurrectionary forces, with citizens citing their charter privileges granted by King John instead.

    Read the passage

    bellion; and so widely diffused and seductive was tliis revolutionary temper, we siiall find no class of the people, not even the inhabitants of the untouched city, entirely exempted from it. The disaffection of Waterford was first manifested in the refusal to assist the Lord Deputy Sidney, who, being encamped near Clonmell, and expecting to be attacked by the insurrectionary forces, applied to the citizens to assist him with a few soldiers. They attempted to justify their conduct by pleading the privileges of the city, and referred him to the charters granted to them by John. The decisive and energetic government of Elizabeth proceeded zealously to promote the peace of the country : favours and punishments were alternately resorted to, and those who were insensible to the boon of privileges and charters, (three of which were bestowed in this reign on the citizens of Waterford,) were forced to feel the displeasure of the angry monarch, who endeavoured to strike terror into the minds of the people by the severity and frequency of executions : when peace was in some degree restored, the next object was to reform the manners of the people. The peculiar costume of the Irish, particularly the glibbs worn by the men, and the Egyptian rolls, the head-dress of the females, were strictly forbidden. We are told that the prohibition was not at first very gra- ' ciously received by the softer sex, but that at length they yielded, and adopted the use of hats after

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clonmel, this is the town near which Lord Deputy Sidney once encamped, expecting attack from insurrectionary forces. He applied to the citizens of Waterford for a few soldiers, but they refused. They justified their refusal by pleading the privileges of their city, and referred him to charters granted to them by King John. Under Elizabeth's government, favours and punishments were alternately resorted to. Three charters were bestowed on Waterford in this reign, but those insensible to such boons were forced to feel the displeasure of the monarch, who struck terror through the severity and frequency of executions. When peace was in some degree restored, the next object was to reform the manners of the people. The peculiar costume of the Irish was strictly forbidden, particularly the glibbs worn by men and the Egyptian rolls, the head-dress of females. The prohibition was not at first graciously received by the softer sex, but at length they yielded and adopted the use of hats.

50. Desmond rebels advance to Dungarvan, government forces dispatched

    Dungarvan · townland · Waterford

    News reached Sir William Pelham that rebels under the Earl of Desmond had advanced as far as Dungarvan, prompting the dispatch of a detachment of 400 foot and 100 horse to oppose them, followed by a special martial law commission to Sir Warham St. Leger.

    Read the passage

    On his return from the church he was favoured with a third speech, which, to diversify the business, was delivered in English, and thus harangued he retired to seek repose at his lodgings. Here, the Earl of Ormond met him, with advice, that the rebels, under the Earl of Desmond, had advanced as far as Dungarvan. A detachment of 400 foot and 100 horse were forthwith dispatched to oppose them; but the force of the insurgents continuing to increase, a special commission was directed to Sir Warham St. Leger, authorizing him to proceed according to the course of martial law against all offenders, as the nature of their crimes might deserve ; provided the parties were not worth forty shillings yearly in land or annuity, or ten pounds in goods. He was also empowered to

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 26

51. Earl of Cork Builds Bridge over the Blackwater at Cappoquin

    Cappoquin · town · Waterford

    The Earl of Cork built four stately bridges, including two over the river Blackwater, one at Fermoy and the other at Cappoquin, at a cost of between eleven and twelve hundred pounds, losing ferry rents of thirty-eight pounds a year forever as a result.

    Read the passage

    bridges over the great river of the Bride, one at Tallough, the other at Connotry, and two other bridges over the river Blackwater, whereof one at Fermoy, the other at Cappoquin. The workmanship of which bridges, besides all the materials, cost him between eleven and twelve hundred pounds, and by building those bridges he hath lost the rent of his several ferries, which is eight and thirty pounds per annum, for ever.

    He is able (as the Lord Deputy hath seen mustered before him) out of his new plantations about Tallough, to bring into the field, for his Majesty's service and defence of those parts of the country, one thousand foot and one hundred horse, and at and about his plantations about Bandonbridge eight hundred foot and sixty horse well armed, all English, and of the religion, with able captains and officers of his own tenants to command them.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 148

52. Talbot granted Waterford as it was 'waste'

    Dungarvan · townland · Waterford

    John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, obtained a grant of the county and city of Waterford together with the barony of Dungarvan, the patent stating that the country was waste and unprofitable to the crown.

    Read the passage

    treasury " a certain ancient silver seal cancelled," which was of no use to the king, the said seal should be broken and sold, and the money laid out in the repair of the said hall and windows. In the reign of Henry VI. John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, obtained a grant of the county and city of Waterford, and the dignity and title of Earl of Waterford, with the castles, honours, lands, and the barony of Dungarvan, because (as the patent states) that country is waste, " et non ad proficuum, sed ad perditum nostrum redundat."

    During the reign of Henry V. there were two charters granted to the city. By the first, dated at Westminster the 6th of May, 1412, the citizens were incorporated under the authority of a mayor and bailiffs. By the second, dated at Dublin the 15th day of January, 1415, the customs, called the great new customs, were granted for the support of the city. It does not appear, whether any new privileges or rights accompanied the grants made by succeeding monarchs. The charters of Henry III. and Edward III. were probably intended to confirm the gifts of preceding sovereigns, as the grant of the English law to the Ostmen of Waterford was merely declaratory of a former statute of Henry II.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 9

53. 1577 Silver and Jewel Agreement Between Cathedral and Corporation

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1577–1637

    In 1577 the Dean and Chapter of Waterford Cathedral gave large quantities of silver plate, crosses, candlesticks and censers to the Mayor and citizens, who in turn bound themselves to defend the Church's rights, leading to prolonged legal disputes over the jewels' value.

    Read the passage

    ing effect was entered into, in the year 1577, between the members of the Cathedral and the Corporation. The Dean and Chapter gave to the Mayor, Sheriffs and citizens, and to their successors, the parcels following, viz. two candlesticks of silver gilt, weighing fourscore ounces, a cross of silver, double gilt, weighing 126 ounces, two candlesticks, of silver gilt, weighing 105 ounces, a standing cup of silver, double gilt, weighing 28 ounces, a cross of silver, double gilt, weighing 49 ounces, five censers of silver, whereof two are partly gilt, weighing 211 ounces, a monstrant with two angels of silver gilt, weighing 49 ounces; and other articles of the same description, amounting altogether to seyen hundred, fourscore and seven ounces, at the rate of five shillings the ounce.

    In return for this, the Mayor, Sheriffs and citizens of Waterford and their successors were bound to the Dean and Chapter in the sum of £400, the condition of which obligation was, that if the Dean and Chapter should be impleaded for the Church rights or lands, the Corporation should, from time to time, give them so much of the value of the jewels as should sustain their pleas at law. And if the Dean and Chapter should afterwards purchase any living for the use and maintenance of the Church, the Corporation should give them so much as remained in their hands. It was also conditioned, that if at any

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 61

54. Arundel's Castle site and lost Jesuits' college

    near Arundel Square · street · Waterford

    Arundel's Castle once occupied the present Arundel Square in Waterford, alongside a college of the Jesuits, though no traces of either building remain except a small part of the Jesuits' college ruins visible from the Blackfriars tower.

    Read the passage

    Colbeck Street derives its name from a gate and castle so called, which opened into the churchyard of the cathedral: the entrance at this place was intended as a private way to the bishop's residence and to the church, and from its contiguity to the abbey, was sometimes called St. Catherine's gate. Here was the chamber of Green Cloth, or the chamber of Water ford, some time used as a place of confinement for refractory citizens, when the mayor was in the habit of exercising the ample powers vested in him by the charter. In Peter's Street were two castles, called after their founders, Magnus and Tor, sons of Turgesius. Arundel's castle occupied the present square of that name : here was also a college of the Jesuits, but no traces of these buildings are now visible, with the exception of a small part of the ruins of the Jesuits' college, which may still be seen from the summit of the tower of the Blackfriars.

    Some years ago, there were several Danish semilunar towers on the walls ofWaterford; but of these, that at the end of what is called the Ramparts, is now the only one remaining. Old John's gate was also Danish.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 54

55. Book printed in Waterford in 1555

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1555

    A book titled concerning the purgation of Edward VI is recorded as having been printed in Waterford in 1555, with a colophon dating it to 7 November of that year, suggesting early introduction of printing to the city.

    Read the passage

    " Emprinted at Waterford the 7 daye of Nouembre, 1555."

    There can, however, be no doubt that printing was known in Waterford in the early part of the subsequent century. Cox, in his History of Ireland, mentions, that in 1644 the rebels had a printing press in Waterford, which was under the superintendence of Thomas Bourke, an Irish printer : and Harris, in his Hibernica, alludes to a quarto publication, entitled " An Argument delivered by Patrick Darcy, Esq. by express order of the House of Commons, on the 9th of June, 1641," which is stated, on the title-page, to have been printed at Waterford, by " Thomas Bourke, printer to the confederate Catholics of Ireland J" 1643.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 23

56. Cromlech on the Gurteen Demesne

    Gurteen · electoral division · Waterford

    A cromlech, or Druids' altar, stands on the Gurteen demesne, consisting of five irregularly placed upright stones supporting a sixth larger stone.

    Read the passage

    A deep ravine, now almost concealed by its luxuriant timber, possesses singular beauty, and, were there occasional openings in the trees, could not be passed unnoticed. There is here, in a large bed of gravelly sand, the first indication of the occurrence of lime-stone; in many places in this county these two formations are found in immediate contact. At Gurteen, a magnificent mansion was projectedby Mr. Power, but nothing has been completed except the stables, which are of great extent, and exhibit a castellated appearance. A cromlech, or Druids' altar, stands on the demesne; it consists of five irregularly placed upright stones which support a sixth of somewhat larger size, but wanting the flatness and peculiar position of some of the more perfect of these works. On the property of the Earl of Glengall adjoining Gurteen, a prodigious ravine, excavated by winter torrents, discovers the material of the range of hills, which is red sandstone, alternating with a beautiful white siliceous sandstone ; and in some

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 124

57. Holy Ghost Hospital building and ancient font

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1545–1743

    The Holy Ghost Hospital, built against the ancient Franciscan monastery, bears an inscription recording its foundation by Patrick Walsh in 1545 and later repairs; inside stands an ancient font bearing the Walsh coat of arms and the date 1426.

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    The exterior of this hospital consists of a shabby modern front, built against the ancient monastery, without any regard to architectural beauty, or even regularity of appearance. Over the entrance is the following — " The Holy Ghost Hospital, founded by Patrick Walsh in 1545, and was repaired and enlarged in 1741 and 1743, by William Paul and Simon John Newport, Esqrs. Mayors. Simon Newport, Master."

    And on a tablet over the entrance to the cemetery— " Thomas Smith, Alderman, Master of the Holy Gost Hospitell, 1718."

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 80

58. New walls, gates and streets added to Waterford

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1171–1185

    A considerable extension was made to Waterford city, with new walls, fortifications, gates and towers, comprehending St John's church, abbey and street, New Street, St Stephen's Street, St Patrick's Street and their churches.

    Read the passage

    At this time, a very considerable addition was made to the city of Waterford; new walls were erected, the fortifications were repaired, and gates and towers were superadded to the former defences. The new part comprehended the church, abbey, and street of St. John, New Street, St. Stephen's Street, St. Patrick's Street, and the churches of St. Stephen, St. Michael, and St. Patrick. On the west side of the city there were two gates, St. Patrick's and Newgate; to the south. Bowling-green gate, called also Closegate, and St. John s gate ; to the south east, St. Catherine's or Colbeck gate; and to the north, there were several gates communicating with the quay and the river.

    Henry II.'s successful invasion of Ireland is to be attributed primarily to the authority and influence of the Pope ; his attempt was further assisted by the warlike spirit of his nobles, as well as by the internal divisions of the Irish themselves ; still the conquest was neither easy nor secure : he had to contend with a people who hated peace, because they did not appreciate its

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 5

59. Tallow's borough charter and parliamentary history

    Tallow · town · Waterford · 1612

    Tallow, formerly a place of consequence, was erected into a borough by charter dated the 10th year of James I, with liberties embracing a circuit of a mile and a half round the church, and it returned two members to the Irish Parliament until the Union.

    Read the passage

    At the western extremity of this barony is the town of Tallow, formerly a place of some consequence : it was erected into a borough by charter, bearing date 10th James I., by which the liberties of the borough were to embrace a circuit of a mile and a half round the church. This town returned two members to the Irish Parliament, and was for many years remarkable for the elec-

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 154

60. The Ruined Churches of Lismore

    Lismore · townland · Waterford

    Lismore once had many churches, some say twenty, of which the ruins of seven were discernible a few years before the book was written, but nearly all ancient buildings had since been removed except the cathedral and castle.

    Read the passage

    There were many, some say twenty, churches in Lismore, of which the ruins of seven were discernible a few years since; but all the ancient buildings of this ungallant city are now entirely removed, except the cathedral and the castle. The Cathedral, erected by St. Carthagh in G3G, is situated on high ground in the immediate vicinity of the Blackwater ; it is shaped like a cross, the grand entrance looking towards the south. There is reason to think that tlie cathedral of Lismore escaped the destructive fires and plunderings which the city experienced after the time of St. Carthagh, as it a})pears that on every calamitous occasion, the bisiiops used every exer-

    33G TOPOGllAPIIV AND ANTIQUITrES.

    Internet Archive historytopograph00ryla, Chapter 145