Name: A week at Killarney : with descriptions of the routes thither from Dublin, Cork, &c.
Author: S. C. (Samuel Carter) Hall (1800–1889)

Smugglers' caves and illicit stills in the Pass

near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

The rocky fortresses of the Pass sheltered illicit still-cabin operations and smugglers' caves where goods were deposited until they could be safely conveyed to neighbouring towns. Men who had taken up arms against the law also met there to plan raids into adjoining valleys.

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these rocks, too, the smugglers had many a cave, in which they deposited their goods until suspicion had been lulled on the highways, so that they might be conveyed in safety to the neighbouring towns. And here, too, men who had set themselves in battle ari'ay against the law, have often met to arrange their plans for carrying destruction into the adjoining valleys.
Prom "the Pass" to Eantry the road is full of objects that cannot fail to interest the stranger. — Pirst, he will note the source of a river that will accompany him all the way to Bantry Bay — the river Ouvane, issuing from a small crevice in the rock, creeping along among huge stones, at length becoming a brawling and angry stream, and ere long a broad river making its way into the sea. The ruined castle of Carriganass — one of the old fortalices of the O'Sullivans — lies directly in his path ; and a little to the left is the picturesque ruin of a venerable church — with its small churchyard in the centre of a group of aged trees. A view of the Bay is soon obtained — a glorious accession to the landscape ; and just at the turn where the road branches off — the left leading to Bantry, the right to Glengariff — is the fine waterfall of Dunamarc, at times a magnificent sight.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 30

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin

Dublin · city · Dublin · 1190

St. Patrick's Cathedral was built in 1190 by John Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, and dedicated to the patron saint of Ireland. The site is said to have been formerly occupied by a church erected by St. Patrick himself in 448. It was thoroughly restored at a cost exceeding £150,000, defrayed entirely by Benjamin Lee Guinness.

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But if few of the public structures of Dublin possess " the beauty of age," many of its churches may be classed with " the ancient of days." Chief among them all is the Cathedral of St. Patrick ; interesting not alone from its antiquity, but from its association with the several leading events, and remarkable people, by which, and by whom, Ireland has been made "famous." It is situated in a very old part of Dublin, in the midst of low streets and alleys. It was built a.d. 1190, by John Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, by whom it was dedicated to the patron saint of Ireland; but, it is said, the site on which it stands was formerly occupied by a chiu'ch erected by the saint himself — a.d. 448.^^'
Institutions for promoting science, literature, and the arts, are far too limited : first in rank and utility is " the Dublin Society," occupying Kildare House, purchased in 1815 from the Duke of Leinster for £20,000 — a noble mansion, "long celebrated as one of the most splendid private residences in Europe." The society received its charter of incorporation as " The Dublin Society for promoting husbandry

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 7

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Dublin, one of its oldest quarters holds St. Patrick's Cathedral, standing among low streets and alleys. It was built in 1190 by John Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, who dedicated it to the patron saint of Ireland. The site itself, it is said, was formerly occupied by a church erected by St. Patrick in 448. The cathedral stands chief among all of Dublin's churches, valued not only for its antiquity but for its association with the several leading events and remarkable people by whom Ireland has been made famous. It was thoroughly restored, at a cost exceeding £150,000, and that entire sum was defrayed by Benjamin Lee Guinness. Many of Dublin's churches may be classed with the ancient of days, even if few of the city's public structures possess what the source calls "the beauty of age."

Kilcrea Friary and Castle built by Cormac of Muskerry

Kilcrea · townland · Cork

The friary and castle of Kilcrea, standing on the banks of the river Bride about halfway between Cork and Macroom, were both built by Cormac, lord of Muskerry, the castle for the protection of the friary. They are approached over a long, narrow bridge as old as the structures themselves, and the castle once had an excellent staircase of dark marble.

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South of the Lee, the road to Macroom runs upon elevated ground, and, for several miles, commands fine views of the valley, through which the river pursues its tortuous course, and the hills on the opposite side, upon the slopes of which are many beautiful villas. A little to the right, almost on the brink of an overhanging cliff, is the castle of Carrigrohan. Two or three miles farther is the town of BxVllincollig, a Government manufactoiy of powder, and a barrack for artillery and cavalry. South-west of the town about a mile are the remains of an ancient castle, once a stronghold of the Anglo-Saxon BaiTetts. Two miles farther is the small village of "the Ovens," famous for its limestone caves. About halfway between Cork and Macroom, are the friary and castle of Kilceea. They were both built by Cormac, lord of Mu skerry, the one for the protection of the other, and stand on the banks of the small river Bride, a mile to the south of the mail-coach road. They are highly interesting and picturesque. The approach to both is over a long and narrow bridge, which appears to be as old as the venerable structures to which it leads. The castle is described by Smith as "a strong building, having an excellent staii'case of a dark marble from
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Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 27

Limerick Castle's six centuries of conflict

Limerick · city · Limerick

The castle at Limerick survived over six centuries of battles, sieges, and changing fortunes, becoming the most coveted prize in Ireland for contending parties. It still stands as a dark mass overlooking the Shannon.

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The charter of Limerick is as old as Eichard the First ; and King John, according to Stanihurst, "was so pleased with the agreeableness of the city that he caused a very fine castle and bridge to be built there." The castle has endured for above six centuries; in all the "battles, sieges, fortunes," that have since occurred, it has been the object most coveted perhaps in Ireland by the contending parties ; and it still frowns a dark mass, upon the waters of the mighty Shannon. Eecently, improvements that have taken place in the
CAblLE 01 LIMEHICK.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 39

As the companion tells it

Coming up through Limerick now. The city's charter is as old as Richard the First. King John, according to Stanihurst, was so pleased with the agreeableness of the place that he caused a very fine castle and bridge to be built there. That castle has endured for above six centuries. In all the battles, sieges, and fortunes that have since occurred, it has been the object most coveted perhaps in Ireland by the contending parties. And it still frowns a dark mass upon the waters of the mighty Shannon.

Mount Gabriel lake legend

near Mount Gabriel · hill or hills · Cork

A lake on the summit of Mount Gabriel is said to contain an eternal serpent and has a depth that has never been fathomed. The bleak, barren mountain overlooks the village of Schull.

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The ocean with its tales of shipwrecks and piracies, the land with its legends and traditions, afford themes to fill folios of interest and excitement ; every castle (of which there remain the ruins of many) has its story of bold adventure. The lakes, too, are fertile of legends : for examples — that on the summit of Mount Gabriel, with its eternal serpent and depth that has never been fathomed ; Loughdrine, where on a certain day in eveiy year the islands used to dance merrily, change places, and shift from one side to the other from sunrise to sunset ; Ballinlough, where the fairies keep nightly guard, protecting the passage that leads from the ancient rath that borders it to the bottom, where flourishes the Thierna-na-oge — " the land of perpetual youth." The stranger will, in short, find, wherever he travels in this wild and comparatively primitive neighbourhood, a rich abundance to interest, excite, and amuse, and not a little to inform and instruct.
And so, by this Coast Route, the Tourist arrives at Bantiy. A brief sojourn here will suffice : it will be recompensed principally by the views to be obtained from the summits of adjacent hills, or by a sail across the bay.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 22

As the companion tells it

[121454] The ocean with its tales of shipwrecks and piracies, the land with its legends and traditions, afford themes to fill folios of interest and excitement; every castle (of which there remain the ruins of many) has its story of bold adventure. The lakes, too, are fertile of legends: for examples — that on the summit of Mount Gabriel, with its eternal serpent and depth that has never been fathomed; Loughdrine, where on a certain day in eveiy year the islands used to dance merrily, change places, and shift from one side to the other from sunrise to sunset; Ballinlough, where the fairies keep nightly guard, protecting the passage that leads from the ancient rath that borders it to the bottom, where flourishes the Thierna-na-oge — " the land of perpetual youth." The stranger will, in short, find, wherever he travels in this wild and comparatively primitive neighbourhood, a rich abundance to interest, excite, and amuse, and not a little to inform and instruct. And so, by this Coast Route, the Tourist arrives at Bantiy. A brief sojourn here will suffice: it will be recompensed principally by the views to be obtained from the summits of adjacent hills, or by a sail across the bay.

Stone cell and chapel on island in Valencia Harbour

Valencia Harbour · harbour · Kerry · 500–599

A small island in Valencia Harbour contained one of those singular stone cells attributed to recluses of the sixth century, similar to those found on the Great Skellig, with an ancient stone tomb or chapel close by.

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From an ascent, as we leave the town, we look back on the small island in Valencia Harbour ; it contains one of those singular stone cells, similar to those that are found on the great Skellig, and which are attributed to recluses of the sixth century, with an ancient stone tomb or chapel close by ; while on the north-east side of the harbour stands the ruined Castle of Ballycarberry ; there is here one of those singular forts, that, like Staig Fort, has no history, and concerning which even tradition is silent. It is this harbour — that of Valencia — which connects Cahirciveen with the sea, and supplies it with natui'al advantages of which, unhappily, there have been few to avail themselves. We pursue our route, still by Dingle Bay, until we reach Castlemaine Harbour, which is, in reality, but a continuation of that of Dingle, stretching inland. We gaze over a pretty creek, Rossbegh, where, on the main road, there is a good hotel ; for this is the bathing-place of the district, with its many neat and pretty lodges for the accommodation of visitors. As we pass along we obtain a charming view of a calm and pleasant nook that, nestling among high hills, draws in the milder sea-breezes, and gives them out in health.
This is the resting-place of those who fish in Lough Carha — a charming lake which we leave to the right in travelling to Killarney. It is environed by hiUs, some

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

Abbey Island ruined chapel and pilgrimage site

Abbey Island · townland · Kerry

Abbey Island, immediately below Derrynane, contains the remains of a ruined chapel believed to be a dependency of the great abbey of Ballinskellig. The island remains a place of pilgrimage, its interest augmented a thousand-fold by its association with O'Connell.

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To enjoy a full view of the all-glorious scene that now presents itself, the visitor need not leave the car — he is high enough above it ; to mount one of the adjacent hills is needless : he looks out upon the ocean — the broad Atlantic ; that distant island is "Scariff : " that nearer to him is "Dinish : " nearer still are "Melaun" and "Headed" islands : immediately below is the Abbey Island, no doubt a dependency on the great abbey of Ballinskcllig ; the remains of a ruined chapel are still there, and still it is a place of pilgrimage, the interest of which has been augmented a thousand-fold. There are a score of islets thereabouts — all of which have names, and they shelter one of the prettiest harbours that can be found on any coast ; it is ever tranquil, no matter how fiercely winds and waves may rage without. We look down on the whole of this magnificent scene ; the huge cliffs that enclose the small haven and the islands that protect it, the bold headlands, the venerable ruin, the clump of trees that hide the house, the grand sweep of rugged heath, and rock, and bog that lie between us
* Among the other attractions of the Blackwater, it may be mentioned that there is a regatta here every year, and that yachtmeu find "good anchorage" from Blackwater to Kenmare.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 102

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Abbey Island, you can see the remains of a ruined chapel on the island below. It is believed to have been a dependency of the great abbey of Ballinskellig. The chapel stands there still, and still it is a place of pilgrimage. The interest of the place has been augmented a thousand-fold by its association with O'Connell. From here you look out upon the broad Atlantic. That distant island is Scariff. The nearer one is Dinish. Nearer still are Melaun and Headed. There are a score of islets thereabouts, all with names, and they shelter one of the prettiest harbours on any coast. It is ever tranquil, no matter how fiercely winds and waves may rage without. The huge cliffs enclose the small haven, and the islands protect it. There are bold headlands, the venerable ruin, a clump of trees that hide a house, and a grand sweep of rugged heath, rock, and bog.

Bantry town described as a failing seaport

Bantry · town · Cork

Bantry town is characterized as 'a seaport without trade, a harbour without shipping, and a coast with a failing fishery.' The road into the town runs under the fine demesne of the Earl of Bantry amid continuous beauty of mountains and green islands.

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The road into the town — a town that has been too truly described as " a seaport without trade, a harbour without shipping, and a coast with a failing fishery " — runs immediately under the fine demesne of the Earl of Bantry — and all the way it is one continued line of beauty : we never for a moment lose sight of the distant mountains, or the foreground of green islands ; while the ear is gladdened by the mingled harmony of rippling waves, and birds that sing among the foliage of the thickly and gracefully wooded plantations.
There are not many islands in this vast expanse of water — " Whiddy " is the largest : and there are besides Hog, Horse, Coney, and Chapel islands, flung into the glorious bay — landlocked, as we have said, by gigantic abrupt heatUands, beyond which the Killarney mountains seem to tower into the clouds.*

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 31

As the companion tells it

Coming through Bantry, in Cork, the road into the town runs under the fine demesne of the Earl of Bantry. The town itself has been described as a seaport without trade, a harbour without shipping, and a coast with a failing fishery. But the approach is one continued line of beauty. You never lose sight of the distant mountains or the green islands in the foreground, while the ear is gladdened by the mingled harmony of rippling waves and birds singing among the thickly wooded plantations. There are not many islands in the vast expanse of water. Whiddy is the largest. Besides that there are Hog, Horse, Coney, and Chapel islands, flung into the glorious bay, landlocked by gigantic abrupt headlands, beyond which the Killarney mountains seem to tower into the clouds.

Carrick-on-Suir town and castle

Carrick-on-Suir · town · Tipperary

Carrick-on-Suir is described as a prosperous town with a picturesque castle jutting out into the stream. Near the town stood the ancient residence of the Osborne family.

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We next arrive at Carrick-on-Suir, a prosperous town, with its picturesque castle jutting out into the stream. Near to Carrick is the ancient residence of the Osbornes ; but here, unhappily, occurs an awkward detonr, which carries the line away from the river. It is, however, soon regained, and we journey by its side into Clonmcl, the capital town of the county of Tippcrary.
The origin of Clonmel is very ancient, and the traditional account of it is fanciful. The Tuatha-de-danaans, a primitive people of Ireland, who have been identified with the Pelasgi and Titans of the continent, wishing to select a site for a settlement, and

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 48

Carrigrohane Castle on the cliff

near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

A castle stands on the brink of an overhanging cliff, slightly to the right of the elevated road south of the Lee leading to Macroom. It is noted as a landmark commanding fine views of the valley.

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South of the Lee, the road to Macroom runs upon elevated ground, and, for several miles, commands fine views of the valley, through which the river pursues its tortuous course, and the hills on the opposite side, upon the slopes of which are many beautiful villas. A little to the right, almost on the brink of an overhanging cliff, is the castle of Carrigrohan. Two or three miles farther is the town of BxVllincollig, a Government manufactoiy of powder, and a barrack for artillery and cavalry. South-west of the town about a mile are the remains of an ancient castle, once a stronghold of the Anglo-Saxon BaiTetts. Two miles farther is the small village of "the Ovens," famous for its limestone caves. About halfway between Cork and Macroom, are the friary and castle of Kilceea. They were both built by Cormac, lord of Mu skerry, the one for the protection of the other, and stand on the banks of the small river Bride, a mile to the south of the mail-coach road. They are highly interesting and picturesque. The approach to both is over a long and narrow bridge, which appears to be as old as the venerable structures to which it leads. The castle is described by Smith as "a strong building, having an excellent staii'case of a dark marble from
34

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 27

Chain of Geraldine towers from the Shannon to Kilmallock

Kilmallock · town · Limerick

Central Limerick is studded with religious and castellated remains testifying to the former power of the Geraldines. A chain of towers can be traced in continuous succession from the Shannon to Kilmallock, marking the territorial supremacy of the Fitzgeralds, while their ecclesiastical structures speak of their wealth and taste.

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* The whole central district of Limerick is, indeed, studded with remains, religious and castellated, still emphatically speaking of tlie fonner power of the Geraldines— now ruined and decaj-ed. A chain of towers may be traced in continuous succession from the Shannon to Kilmallock, indicating the territorial supremacy of the Filzgeralds; whilst their numerous and elaborate ecclesiastical structures tell of the wealth, munificence, and taste of that noble race. Kilmallock, Askeaton, and Adare are objects of pilgrimage, to all who love tlie picturesque and relics of the magnificent.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 11

Children's burial grounds at Lough Hyne

near Lough Hyne · lake or lakes · Cork

A churchyard near Lough Hyne, peculiar to Ireland, was devoted exclusively to the interment of children and formerly had a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. Similar graveyards occur frequently in Cork and Kerry; Valentia Island alone has four.

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and to one point in particular his attention should be directed — the glen called "the Leap," the ancient boundary which divided the civilised from the uncivilised, " Beyond the Leap, beyond the Law," being, even within our memory, an accepted proverb.* Not far from Skibbereen is a singular salt-water lake — Lough Hyne, or Ine (the Deep Lake). In the centre is a long island, upon which are the ruins of one of the castles of the O'Driscolls. It is surrounded by picturesque hills, some rocky and precipitous, others steep and woody, rising Irom the lake. Our sketch is from a churchyard, peculiar to Ireland, devoted exclusively to the interment of children,! and where there was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. In the foreground is one of the singular ring -stones, or pillar-stones, engraven with inscrutable characters. It is

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 20

As the companion tells it

You're coming near Lough Hyne, a salt-water lake not far from Skibbereen. In the middle of it sits a long island with the ruins of one of the O'Driscolls' castles, ringed by hills, some rocky and steep, others thick with trees. There's a churchyard here that's peculiar to Ireland, given over entirely to the burial of children, and it once had a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. In the foreground stands one of the old ring-stones, pillar-stones engraved with characters nobody can read. These children's graveyards turn up frequently in Cork and Kerry — Valentia Island alone has four of them.

Cork Harbour motto 'statio bene fida carinis'

near Cork Harbour · estuary · Cork

Cork Harbour's natural grandeur is said to have originated the motto 'statio bene fida carinis' — a safe station for ships — applied to the city. The city arms were likely suggested by those of Bristol, whose similar privileges were granted to Cork by charter.

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past. A sail from Cork to Queenstown is one of the rarest and richest treats the island can supply, and might justify a description that would seem akin to hyperbole. Its noble harbour, indeed, originated the motto — '* statio bene fida carinis" — so aptly and deservedly applied to it. The city arms, here represented, there can be no doubt, were suggested by the arms of Bristol ; similar privileges to those enjoyed by that city having been granted to Cork by charter.
The moment the voyager lands, he is impressed with a conviction that the natural advantages of Cork have been turned to good account. There is bustle on the quays; carriages and carts of all classes are waiting to convey passengers or merchandise to their destination ; and an air of prosperity cheers him as he disembarks.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 15

Cork Harbour: secure, capacious, and beautiful

near Cork Harbour · estuary · Cork

Cork Harbour's entrance between two bold headlands crowned by fortifications opens into a noble expanse of sea. It is one of the most secure, capacious, and beautiful harbours in the kingdom, said to be large enough to contain the entire navy of Great Britain.

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The distant appearance of Cork harbour, from the seaward approach, is gloomy, rocky, and inhospitable ; but as its entrance between two bold headlands— scarcely half a mile apart, and crowned by fortifications — opens upon the view, its character undergoes a complete change. The town of Queenstown,* with the island of Spike (forming a sort of natural breakwater), and several smaller islands, give variety and interest to a noble expanse of sea that spreads out, like a luxuriant lake, to welcome and rejoice the visitor ; its sparkling billows heaving and tumbling in sportive mimicry of the wild and wide ocean without. The harbour is one of the most secure, capacious, and beautiful of the kingdom, and is said to be large enough to contain the whole navy of Great Britain. Queenstown is seen fronting the mouth of the harbour almost immediately after it is entered. It is built on the side of a steep hill, and rises from the water's edge, terrace above terrace ; the more elevated parts commanding a magnificent bird's-eye view of the extensive anchorage. The town has, therefore, natural advantages of a rare order. On all sides the shore is covered with villas — the trees, usually stunted on the coast, grow here gracefully and majestically; the
* " Queenstown " will not be found in any of the books older Ihan 1849, although " Cove '' has been at aU times famous. The name of this port-town was changed from Cove to Queenstown in honour of Her Majesty, who there fii'st lauded in Ireland, in the year 1849.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 13

Dalkey Island rising from Dublin Bay

Dalkey Island · townland · Dublin

Approaching Dublin by sea, the traveller sees the ever-green island of Dalkey rising seemingly from the ocean surface, nestled between the Wicklow Hills to the south and the Hill of Howth to the north. It forms part of the magnificent natural entrance to Dublin Bay.

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What a glorious impression of Ireland is conveyed to the eye and mind upon approaching the noble and beautiful bay of Dublin! It is, indeed, inexpressibly lovely ; and on entering it after the voyage, the heart bounds with enthusiasm^ at the sight of its capacious bosom, enclosed by huge rocks, encompassed in tum by high and picturesque mountains. To the south, varied into innumerable forms, are "the Wicklow Hills;" but nearer, rising, as it were, out of the surface of old ocean, is the ever- green island of Dalkey. To the north, a bolder coast is commenced by " the Hill of Howth," on a leading pinnacle of which stands the most picturesque of the Irish beacons ; at the other side of the promontory, are seen a village, with another lighthouse, a martello tower, an ancient abbey, and a calm, though now deserted, harbour — for a long period the first landing-place upon Irish ground.
Leaving to the left the pretty island of Dalket, we enter the channel, between two huge sand-banks called, from the perpetual roaring of the sea that rolls over them, " the Bulls," north and south. But the place of ordinary debai-kation is Kingstown, formerly Dunleary, which received its modern name in honour of His Majesty George the Fourth, who took ship-board here on leaving Ireland in 1821. To commemorate the event of the king's visit, an obelisk was erected on the spot where he last stood ; with an inscription setting forth the fact. The harbour of Kingstown is safe, commodious, and exceedingly picturesque. From the quay at which the passengers land, the railway carriages start, and convey passengers a distance of seven miles, in about twenty minutes, to the terminus, within a few hundred yards of the centre of the city ; leaving to the right a long and narrow range of stone-work, known as the South Wall, which runs for above three miles into the sea, and nearly midway in which is an apology for a battery, called " the Pigeon-house," — but keeping in sight all the way the opposite coast, speckled with villages, and beautifully varied by alternate hill and dale.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 5

Finn Mac Cool's gold under Muckross

Muckross · townland · Kerry

A legend claims that Finn Mac Cool kept his tubs of gold in the lake under Muckross, guarded by his dog Bran. An English diver attempted to retrieve the gold but was seized by the awakened dog and never tried the experiment again.

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Pin Mac Cool kept his tubs of goold in the lake under Mucross, and set his dog Bran to watch them; this was ages ago, long before the Plood. An Englishman — a grate diver intirely — came over to try wouldn't he get the goold ; and when he went down, the dog woke from his slumbers and seized him ; and I'll go bail he never tried th'
experiment agin. How, when O'Donoghue leaped out of the windy of Poss Castle,

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 92

French forces twice entered Bantry Bay for invasion of Ireland

near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1689–1796

Bantry Bay is noted as historically memorable for being twice entered by a French force intent on invading Ireland—first in 1689 in aid of James II, and again in 1796. These events anchor the bay's significance in Irish military and political history.

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The Bay is memorable in history as having been twice entered by a French force, for the invasion of Ireland — the first in 1689 in aid of James II. ; the next in 1796 : — some details concerning the latter cannot fail to interest our readers.
to aclmirc-

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 31

Hill of Howth and its beacons, abbey, and harbour

Howth · townland · Dublin

The Hill of Howth commences the bolder northern coast of Dublin Bay, crowned by a picturesque beacon. Beyond the promontory lie a village, a second lighthouse, a martello tower, an ancient abbey, and a now-deserted harbour that was for a long period the first landing-place on Irish ground.

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What a glorious impression of Ireland is conveyed to the eye and mind upon approaching the noble and beautiful bay of Dublin! It is, indeed, inexpressibly lovely ; and on entering it after the voyage, the heart bounds with enthusiasm^ at the sight of its capacious bosom, enclosed by huge rocks, encompassed in tum by high and picturesque mountains. To the south, varied into innumerable forms, are "the Wicklow Hills;" but nearer, rising, as it were, out of the surface of old ocean, is the ever- green island of Dalkey. To the north, a bolder coast is commenced by " the Hill of Howth," on a leading pinnacle of which stands the most picturesque of the Irish beacons ; at the other side of the promontory, are seen a village, with another lighthouse, a martello tower, an ancient abbey, and a calm, though now deserted, harbour — for a long period the first landing-place upon Irish ground.
Leaving to the left the pretty island of Dalket, we enter the channel, between two huge sand-banks called, from the perpetual roaring of the sea that rolls over them, " the Bulls," north and south. But the place of ordinary debai-kation is Kingstown, formerly Dunleary, which received its modern name in honour of His Majesty George the Fourth, who took ship-board here on leaving Ireland in 1821. To commemorate the event of the king's visit, an obelisk was erected on the spot where he last stood ; with an inscription setting forth the fact. The harbour of Kingstown is safe, commodious, and exceedingly picturesque. From the quay at which the passengers land, the railway carriages start, and convey passengers a distance of seven miles, in about twenty minutes, to the terminus, within a few hundred yards of the centre of the city ; leaving to the right a long and narrow range of stone-work, known as the South Wall, which runs for above three miles into the sea, and nearly midway in which is an apology for a battery, called " the Pigeon-house," — but keeping in sight all the way the opposite coast, speckled with villages, and beautifully varied by alternate hill and dale.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 5

Ludlow's naval assault on Ross Castle

Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

General Ludlow constructed boats to attack Ross Castle by water, ordering one rowed about to find the best landing place. The defenders, perceiving the danger, submitted before an assault was launched, though Ludlow does not explain how the boats were transported to the lake.

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come " to Dunsinane." Although it is very unlikely that Ludlow liad heard of this tradition, or would have heeded it if he had, it is certain that, having considered it wisest to attack the castle hy water, he had constructed boats for the purpose; "and," as he says, "when we had received our boats, each of which was capable of containing one hundred and twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about, in order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon the enemy, which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent the danger that threatened them." General Ludlow does not explain how the boats were conveyed into the lakes ; and so great must have been the difl&culty of transporting them from any distant part, covered as this district of Ireland then was with bog and forests, that the boat has been generally considered to have been nothing more than a raft. An accident enabled us to remove all doubts on the subject.
In the wall of the ancient church of St. Multose, at Kinsale, we discovered an old tomb, partly concealed by rubbish ; and learned that this division of the structure had, until very lately, been blocked up by heaps of stone and mortar. The inscription on a wooden panel, almost rotted away, and fixed immediately over the grave, was in Latin. The word "Kerria" excited our curiosity; and, on clearing the stone, we were amply rewarded for our labour.'^'

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 88

O'Donoghue's Horse rock on the Lower Lake

near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

A natural rock formation on the Lower Lake at Killarney, shaped like a horse, was associated with the O'Donoghue legend. Its base was being undermined by the water, and a footnote records that the rock has since collapsed into the lake during a severe winter frost.

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many ways, is a fertile source of amusement to visitors. As we have said, every rock of the Lower Lake is associated with it : the most remarkable of these rocks is " O'Donoghue' s Horse," of which the accompanying print will convey an accurate idea ; although from some points of view it bears a much closer resemblance to the form of the animal whose name it bears. We were the more desirous of preserving a copy of this natural wonder ; for, its base being nearly undermined by the continual action of the water, it is not likely it can long remain on the comparatively slender props that now sustain it. In a few years the " horse " may be an inmate of the chieftain's stable under the waves ; but he will cease to be an object of interest and attraction to dwellers upon earth.* The guides and boatmen have all, of course, "had a sight" of the chieftain, and will tell the Tourist amusing stories — but those they have only }xi^ixy:(\. — of their ancestors, who not only saw, but conversed with him, and shared his hospitality in his palace below the waves.
Our guide directed our attention to a scene of surpassing beauty, and exclaimed,

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

Sir Richard Courtenay buried in Muckross mid-aisle

Muckross · townland · Kerry

Sir Richard Courtenay, a celebrated Killarney guide known for his courtesy, wit, and knowledge of local legends, is buried in the mid-aisle of Muckross. His gravestone was at the time unmarked by his name, though every spot of Muckross knew his footsteps well.

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accustomed places ; they will not fail to pay him a tribute of remembrance as they stand beside the gravestone — as yet, we regret to say, unmarked by his name —
that covers his remains, in holy Mucross, every spot of which knew his footsteps well.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall

Staigue Fort: ancient circular stone ruin

Staigue · townland · Kerry

Near West Cove stands a circular building of massive stones constructed without mortar, fitted so tightly that individual stones can scarcely be removed. Antiquaries have no firm data on its origin, but it is among the most ancient remains in the country and was likely built as a shelter during wars between chiefs.

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perhaps no locality combines so many attractions : the angler is not only free to fish, but the liberal owner of the water will rejoice to learn his success.* The village of Sneeji is soon reached, and then AVest Cove ; the road is but a continuation of delicious scenery — moiintain, river, lake and ocean. If the pleasure of the Tourist tends that way, he should diverge a mile or two from the road to visit the singular ruin of Staig Foet ; a circular building, of massive stones, without mortar, although so closely knit that it is scarcely possible to remove one of them. Antiquaries have no data as regards this remarkable ruin : but it is unquestionably among the most ancient remains of the country, and was no doubt constructed as a place of shelter during wars between chiefs who have long been dust.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 102

Waterford's imposing view from the landing square

Reginald's Tower · man-made feature · Waterford

Waterford city presents a striking view from the square where passengers land, immediately fronting Reginald's Tower. The scene includes busy quays, a picturesque bridge, and villas crowned on the high steeps across the river in County Kilkenny.

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said to have been a stately and venerable edifice ; its character is now very incongruous. Perhaps no city of Ireland presents a more imposing view than that obtained from the square, at which passengers land, immediately fronting Eeginald's Tower ; high steeps on the other side of the river, in the county of Kilkenny, are crowned with villas, embowered in pleasant woods ; the quays are full of bustle, where many ships are unloading, and the long, yet picturesque bridge is seen at their extremity. We cross the bridge to the railway terminus ; having sojourned awhile at one of the hotels, of which the city of course has several — none of them of a high class, but all sufl&ciently comfortable, and we are en route to Killarney.
The railway to the Limerick Junction was constructed in 1850-4, by the eminent engineer George Willoughby Hemans, Esq. (a son of the poetess), and is among the most successful railway achievements of the kingdom. Its extent to the Limerick Junction is 55 miles : all the way through the counties of Kilkenny and Tipperary ; the county of Waterford being on the southern side of the Suir. We briefly describe this route, premising that neither in England nor in Ireland is there a line which aff'ords a larger amount of pictorial beauty than we find here during its first thirty miles.*

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 47

Dunmore pier and lighthouse works

Dunmore East · town · Waterford

Dunmore is beautifully situated on a bold and rocky coast immediately upon the sea. Its pier is 600 feet in length, and the cost of the works is believed to have exceeded £100,000, a sum immensely disproportionate to their public value.

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beautifully situated ; the coast is bold and rocky, and it is immediately upon the sea. The pier is 600 feet in length, and the cost of the works is believed to have exceeded £100,000, a sum immensely disproportionate to their value to the public. "A DruiJs' altar" stands on a wild and rocky eminence near Dunmore. It commands a view, on one side of the estuary, of the Suir with Cremla Island and Hook Tower, and on the other the great bay of Tramore, with the rugged precipices of the Cuma rocks in the distance.
On the "VVaterford side of the bay, the only other object that will attract notice is the village of Passage ; now a ruinous place, having succumbed to steam, and the several harbour improvements which prevent a necessity for vessels resting there.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 44

Killorglin: a market town of mixed fortune

Killorglin · town · Kerry

Killorglin is described as a market town of no great importance, exhibiting signs of great misery intermixed with prosperous commerce. It serves as a junction for travellers proceeding to Tralee or Dingle, with a public car conveying passengers further west.

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After journeying about five miles, all the way with Castlemaine Harbour in sight, the Tourist an-ives at Ejlloeglix — a market town of no great importance, but exhibiting signs of great misery intermixed with prosperous commerce. Here will commence the journey of those who are proceeding to Tralee or Dingle; and here another public car conveys passengers into the district further to the west. Hence into Killarney there is a good road, which, skirting the river Laune, and passing underneath the Eeeks, leaves to the right the pathway to CaiTan Tuel, and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe, and conducts into the town of Killarney.*
We lead the Tourist, therefore, back to Killorgiin, distant ten miles from Killarney, and conduct him to the several points of interest between this town and the Shannon. We can, however, do little more than indicate this route — our space is already exhausted — and we must pass somewhat rapidly over the remainder of our Toui'. It is, indeed, utterly impossible to do it anything like justice ; for all we have said of the wild grandeur of the coast between Kenmare and Valencia will apply, with equal force, to that promontory which, stretching between Dingle Bay and Tralee Bay, but running far out into the Atlantic, contains Ventry Bay, Smerwick Harbour, Brandon Bay, and a number of lesser harbours, each of them beautiful : while the sea, rocks, cliffs, and islands along the coast are but poorly pictured by the term " sublime."

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 105

As the companion tells it

You are coming into Killorglin, a market town in Kerry. The book that describes it calls it a place of no great importance, but says it shows signs of great misery intermixed with prosperous commerce. The road here has kept Castlemaine Harbour in sight for about 5 miles. This is where travellers branch off. Those heading to Tralee or Dingle start that journey from here, and a public car carries passengers further west. The road back to Killarney skirts the river Laune and passes underneath the Reeks. It leaves to the right the pathway to Carran Tuel and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe before conducting into Killarney. The town stands 10 miles from Killarney. From here the route runs on toward the Shannon, between Dingle Bay and Tralee Bay. The author says his space is exhausted and he must pass rapidly over what remains. A promontory stretches out into the Atlantic, containing Ventry Bay, Smerwick Harbour, Brandon Bay, and a number of lesser harbours, each of them beautiful. The sea, rocks, cliffs, and islands along the coast are, in the author's words, "but poorly pictured by the term sublime."

O'Sullivans and O'Learys sheltering in the Pass

near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

The outlawed O'Sullivans and O'Learys used the rocky fortresses of the Pass of Keim-an-Eigh to maintain their freedom against the Saxon, making sallies to avenge themselves and carry off flocks and herds of the stranger.

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Protected by these fortresses of rocks, ages ago, the outlawed O'Sullivans and O'Learys kept their freedom, and laughed to scorn the sword and fetter of the Saxon : and from these "mountains inaccessible" they made occasional sallies, avenging themselves upon, and bearing off the flocks and herds of, the stranger. As may be expected, in modern times, these rocky fortresses have given shelter often to bands of lawless or disaffected men : here, in some deep dell, might have been detected the light curl of smoke issuing from the roof of some illicit still-cabin, to disturb the inmates of which would have required a very strong force of the revenue. Among

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 29

Road to Blarney through Sunday's Well

near Sunday's Well · population centre · Cork

The road to Blarney is described as singularly beautiful, running along the upper Lee through Sunday's Well and commanding charming views near and distant. On a hillside approaching Blarney is the famous establishment of Dr. Barter, the 'cold water cure,' with Turkish baths under the same roof.

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The road to Blarney is singularly beautiful : it runs along the upper Lee, through Sunday's Well ; commanding charming views, near and distant. On a hill side, approaching Blarney, is the famous and prosperous establishment of Dr. Barter — the " cold water cure ;" the Turkish baths are under the same roof.
We have devoted as much space as we can well spare to the City of Cork and its vicinity. The subject, however, might supply material for a full volume instead of a few pages. Thus much, at least, appeared necessary in order to suggest hints of the enjoyment the Tourist may derive from a visit to " The beautiful City."

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 19

As the companion tells it

Coming up now, you pass through Sunday's Well, on the road to Blarney. The road runs along the upper Lee, and it is described as singularly beautiful, commanding charming views near and distant. Further along, on a hillside approaching Blarney, stands the famous and prosperous establishment of Dr. Barter, the cold water cure, with Turkish baths under the same roof. The writer calls Cork the beautiful city and says the subject could fill a full volume rather than a few pages.

The Serpent's Lake in the Gap of Dunloe

near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

One of the named lakes within the Gap of Dunloe, called the Serpent's Lake because of a serpentine channel that conveys the river into it. When submerged, the black mark of the channel assumes the form of a serpent.

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* One of them is christened, from its singular shape, " O'Donoghua's Heart." The guide maj- perhaps tell you tliat though everj-bodj' knew his heart was a big one, they never thought it was so hard. One of them is the Serpent's Lake ; it obtains its name, according to John Spillane, from an obrious cause — a serpentine channel that conveys the river into it, and when under water, the black mark assumes the form of a seqieut.
112 A WEEK AT KILLARNEY.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 79

Aghadoe round tower details and spoilage

Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

The round tower at Aghadoe stands sixty feet from the north-west angle of the church, with only the basement remaining, about fifteen feet high. Its facing stones were taken away for tomb construction in the adjacent burying-ground, and gold-seekers further damaged the structure. It must have fallen before the last century, but no notice of it in its erect state survives.

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t It stands sixty feet from theN.W. angle of the church, and is called " The Pulpit " by the peasantry. All that now remains of this ancient structure is the basement, reaching from the sill of tlie door downward. The height is about fifteen feet ; it measures in its outer circumference fifty-two feet ; the diameter within the walls is six feet ten inches ; the wall is four feet six inches thick. The stones are large, regular, and well-dressed. The greater part of the facing stone of the north side has been unfortunately taken away for the erection of tombs in the adjacent burying-ground. Within and without the spoiliator has been effectually at work, aided liy those worst of pests, the gold-seekers, whose unhallowed dreams are most fatal to our antiquities. 'I his tower must liave fallen previously to the last centiu'y ; but no notice of it in its erect state has sui-vived." — Windele.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 77

Blarney village and its famous stone

near Blarney · townland · Cork

Blarney, a village about four miles north-west of Cork, is among the most familiar places in Ireland to English ears. Its notoriety comes from the marvellous qualities of the famous Blarney stone and the popular song 'The groves of Blarney, they are so charming.' The exact position of the stone among the castle ruins remains a matter of doubt.

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sculptor has been employed to ornament it — occasionally with good taste and effect. The whole of the immediate outlets of Cork possess considerable interest, and their natural beauties are, perhaps, not exceeded by those of any of the kingdom. The Glanmire road on the one side, and the Black Eock road on the other side of the Lee, are charming walks or drives : villas abound all the way ; and the river, with its many objects of interest, is always in view. The most "famous," and certainly the most interesting of the neighbouring localities, is Blaknet — a village about four miles north-west of Cork. Few places in Ireland are more familiar to English ears. This notoriety is attributable, first to the marvellous qualities of its famous "stone," and next, to the extensive popularity of the song —
" The groves of Blarney, they are so charming."

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 18

Caha Mountains and legend of 365 lakes

near Caha Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

The Caha Mountains are said to contain no fewer than 365 lakes. A legend holds that a holy saint prayed effectively for one lake to supply water for each day of the year, explaining the remarkable count.

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^jj ITHER by the Coast road, the road throngli Drjr3i.onvAT, or the road through Gougane Barra, the Tourist arrives at BAyxEY. The far-famed "Bay" is, perhaps, unsurpassed by any harbour in the kingdom for natural beauties combined with natural advantages. As we approach it, along the dreary road from Skibbereen, a sudden turn, at the base of a rugged hill, brings us suddenly within view of the most striking objects which make up the glorious scene. Ear away, in the distant backgi'ound, ai-e dimly seen Mangcrton and the Beeks ; nearer, rise Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and a long range — the Caha Mountains ; among which, it is said, there are no fewer than three hundred and sixty-five lakes — the number having, of course, suggested a legend that some holy saint prayed effectually for one to supply water for each day of the year. Little flat and fertile islands lie at the feet of the spectator; and, nearly facing the toAvn, is Whiddt Island, with its fierce-looking fortifications, and its fields rich with the promised harvest. It is impossible to do jiistice to the exceeding grandeur and surpassing loveliness of the scene ; the whole of it is taken in by the eye at once. We are not called upon to turn from side to side for new objects -we gaze upon it all ; and he must be indeed dead to nature Avho does not drink in as delicious a cb'aught as Nature, in the fulness of her bounty, ever presented.
The road into the town — a town that has been too truly described as " a seaport without trade, a harbour without shipping, and a coast with a failing fishery " — runs immediately under the fine demesne of the Earl of Bantry — and all the way it is one continued line of beauty : we never for a moment lose sight of the distant mountains, or the foreground of green islands ; while the ear is gladdened by the mingled harmony of rippling waves, and birds that sing among the foliage of the thickly and gracefully wooded plantations.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 31

Dublin Society at Kildare House

Dublin · city · Dublin · 1815

The Dublin Society occupied Kildare House, purchased in 1815 from the Duke of Leinster for £20,000, described as long celebrated as one of the most splendid private residences in Europe. The society received its charter to promote husbandry and other useful arts.

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Institutions for promoting science, literature, and the arts, are far too limited : first in rank and utility is " the Dublin Society," occupying Kildare House, purchased in 1815 from the Duke of Leinster for £20,000 — a noble mansion, "long celebrated as one of the most splendid private residences in Europe." The society received its charter of incorporation as " The Dublin Society for promoting husbandry
* Until recent!}', this venerable edifice was in a niinous state ; happily it has been thoroughly restored, in strict accordance with the original plan. The cost of this work exceeded f 150,000. No visitor to Dublin should pass even a day in that city without seeing this most noble and beautiful temple of God, nor without rendering homage to that tnily illustrious citizen, Benjamin Lee Guinness, ivho has defrayed the whole of the cost of the restoration, and under whose personal direction and superintendence it has been effected, from first to la.^t. His name will be held in honour by generations yet to come.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 7

As the companion tells it

As the road carries you through Dublin, the city is home to the Dublin Society, occupying Kildare House. The institutions for promoting science, literature, and the arts in Ireland are far too limited, and the Dublin Society stands first among them in rank and utility. In 1815 the society purchased the house from the Duke of Leinster for £20,000. It was a noble mansion, in the words of the source, "long celebrated as one of the most splendid private residences in Europe." The society received its charter of incorporation as the Dublin Society for promoting husbandry and other useful arts, and from this noble mansion it carried on that work, first in rank and utility among Ireland's institutions for promoting science, literature, and the arts.

Mount Gabriel's lough and its serpent demon

near Mount Gabriel · hill or hills · Cork

A small lough atop Mount Gabriel was reputedly home to a metamorphosed demon serpent that raised its head above the water at night. Missing cows from neighbouring herds were attributed to the creature.

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The sacred character of Gougane Barra has, it is said, preserved it from the pest of so many Irish lakes — the monster worm or enchanted eel. We have heard stories of them in abundance ; and " have seen the man who had seen" the metamorphosed demon that infests the little lough on the top of Mount Gabriel — it is ' ' deeper than did ever plummet sound ;" yet not so deep but that it supplies a home to one of these " things horrible." Often, but always at night, the hideous head of the serpent is raised above the surface of the water; and if a cow be missing from some neighbouring herd, there is no difliculty in ascertaining its fate — it has been made "a toothful for the ould enemy." In ancient times, indeed, the blessed isle of St. Fin Bar was subjected to the visits of such an intruder ; who having been guilty of the imprudence and impudence of snatching, from the very hand of the officiating priest, the loneen — a vessel for holding holy water — as he was in the act of sprinkling with it a crowd of devotees, witnesses of the sacrilegious act, he was expelled the neighbourhood for his wickedness, and has never since ventured to leave his loathsome slime upon the green banks of the lake.
The Tourist will greatly enjoy a visit to the Holy Lake, not only as introducing him to one of the strongholds of which superstition held possession for centuries ; but the stern and sterile grandeur of the place will astonish him, if perchance here his first acquaintance shall have been formed with the wild magnificence of Nature in Ireland. The scene is a fine subject for the poet ; and it has been happily treated by one who " died too soon," J. J. Callanan : —

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 28

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Mount Gabriel, a hill in west Cork. On its summit lies a small lough, and in that lough, according to the stories people told, there lived a metamorphosed demon. The writer of this account had not seen the creature himself, but had met the man who had seen it. The lough, they said, was deeper than any plummet could sound, and yet not so deep that it could not shelter one of those things the old people called horrible. Often, and always at night, the head of the serpent would rise above the surface of the water. And if a cow went missing from one of the herds grazing on the neighbouring slopes, there was no great mystery about what had become of it. The beast had been made, as they put it, a toothful for the ould enemy. The writer goes on to draw a parallel with Gougane Barra, the holy lake of St. Fin Bar. That place, he says, was preserved from such monsters by its sacred character. But in ancient times even the blessed isle there was visited by an intruder of the same kind, one bold enough to snatch a vessel of holy water from the hand of the priest himself as he sprinkled a crowd of devotees. For that sacrilege the creature was expelled, and never again left its slime upon the green banks of that lake. The suggestion is that the demon of Mount Gabriel's lough was a creature of the same order, left to its own dark mountain and its deep water.

Skellig monastic cells and ancient abbey

near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

On the flat part of the Great Skellig were several stone cells said to have been chapels of an ancient abbey of canons regular of St. Austin. The cells were built in the ancient Roman manner of stone curiously closed and jointed without mortar, with circular stone arches at the top, and a single difficult path led to the summit.

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* Dr. Smith gives a striking account of the perils through which the penitents passed. To the top of the Great Skellig there is but one path, and that so difficult that few people are hardy enough to attempt it. Upon the flat part of the island are several cells, said to have been chapels — for "here stood anciently an abbey of canons regular of St. Austin.'" " They are built in the ancient Roman manner, of stone curiously closed and jointed, without either mortar or cement, and are impervious to the air and wind, having circular stone arches at the top."

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 104

The Leap, ancient boundary near Glandore

The Leap · electoral division · Wexford

Between Ross-Carbery and Skibbereen, at the head of Glandore harbour, a picturesque road leads past a glen called 'the Leap,' the ancient boundary dividing civilised from uncivilised lands. The proverb 'Beyond the Leap, beyond the Law' was current within living memory.

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and to one point in particular his attention should be directed — the glen called "the Leap," the ancient boundary which divided the civilised from the uncivilised, " Beyond the Leap, beyond the Law," being, even within our memory, an accepted proverb.* Not far from Skibbereen is a singular salt-water lake — Lough Hyne, or Ine (the Deep Lake). In the centre is a long island, upon which are the ruins of one of the castles of the O'Driscolls. It is surrounded by picturesque hills, some rocky and precipitous, others steep and woody, rising Irom the lake. Our sketch is from a churchyard, peculiar to Ireland, devoted exclusively to the interment of children,! and where there was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. In the foreground is one of the singular ring -stones, or pillar-stones, engraven with inscrutable characters. It is

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 20

Ancient origin of Clonmel and the Tuatha-de-danaans

Clonmel · town · Tipperary

Clonmel's origin is described as very ancient, with a fanciful traditional account linking its founding to the Tuatha-de-danaans, a primitive people of Ireland identified with the Pelasgi and Titans of the continent, who sought a site for a settlement.

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The origin of Clonmel is very ancient, and the traditional account of it is fanciful. The Tuatha-de-danaans, a primitive people of Ireland, who have been identified with the Pelasgi and Titans of the continent, wishing to select a site for a settlement, and

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 48

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Clonmel, you are in a town whose origin is very ancient. The traditional account is fanciful. The Tuatha-de-danaans, a primitive people of Ireland, identified with the Pelasgi and Titans of the continent, wished to select a site for a settlement, and so the story of this place begins.

Ardfert cathedral and round tower ruins

Ardfert · town · Kerry · 1771

The ruins of Ardfert cathedral, a bishop's see held in commendam with Limerick, are still well preserved with four round arches on the western front and three pointed windows on the eastern front. A round tower of dark marble, 120 feet high, suddenly fell down in 1771.

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Tralee is the assize town of the county. It sends a member to parliament ; its present representative being " The O'Donoghue." It contains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. The new Roman Catholic cathedral of this town- is a remarkably beautiful structure, the interior being decorated in much better taste than usual. The remains of several ruins are in the vicinity of Tralee : among others, that of an abbey, in which for several centuries the Desmonds were buried, the first occupants of its tombs being Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed " the Great," and his son Maurice, who were both slain at Callan, in a fight with the Mac Carthy Mor. The most interesting monastic remains in Kerry are, however, those of the abbey of Ardfert — about six miles northwest of Tralee. Ardfert is a bishop's see, held in commendam with the bishopric of Limerick. The ruins of the cathedral are still in good preservation, and bear marks of high antiquity. In the western front are fom- round arches, and in the eastern front three elegant narrow-pointed windows. On the right of the altar are some niches with Saxon mouldings. A round tower, 120 feet high, and built chiefly of a dark marble, which formerly stood near the west front, suddenly fell down in 1771.
Between Tralee and Tarbert, a distance of nearly thirty miles, the road is inland, yet at no time far from the sea. There are many places of historic note which the

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

As the companion tells it

As you come through the town of Ardfert in Kerry, you are passing the most interesting monastic remains in the county. Ardfert sits about six miles northwest of Tralee, the assize town of Kerry, which sends a member to parliament. Tralee's present representative is The O'Donoghue, and the town holds nearly 10,000 inhabitants. Its new Roman Catholic cathedral is a remarkably beautiful structure, the interior decorated in much better taste than usual. Several ruins stand near Tralee. Among them is an abbey where the Desmonds were buried for several centuries. The first occupants of its tombs were Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed the Great, and his son Maurice, both slain at Callan in a fight with the Mac Carthy Mor. Ardfert was a bishop's see, held in commendam with the bishopric of Limerick. The cathedral ruins are still in good preservation and bear marks of high antiquity. The western front has four round arches, and the eastern front has three elegant narrow-pointed windows. On the right of the altar are niches with Saxon mouldings. A round tower, 120 feet high, built chiefly of dark marble, once stood near the west front. It suddenly fell down in 1771.

Founding of Newtown Pery, 1769

Newtown Pery · population centre · Limerick · 1769

A third division of Limerick called Newtown Pery was commenced in 1769 by the Right Hon. Edmond Sexton Pery. The modern parts of the city are handsome, with wide streets and evenly built houses.

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The city of Limerick, situated in an extensive plain watered by the mighty Shannon, about sixty Irish miles from the sea, is divided, like all the towns of note in Ireland, into English town and Irish town ; but a third division, called Xewtown Pery, was added to it during the last century — the work being commenced in 1769, by the Right Hon. Edmond Sexton Pery. The English town stands on "the King's Island," an island formed by the Shannon, which divides, about half a mile above the city, into two streams ; the narrowest of which is named the Abbey lliver. There is also an extensive and populous suburb on the opposite side of the river, in the county of Clare. The more modern parts are remarkably handsome, the streets being wide and the houses evenly built : the ancient portions, on the contrary, are narrow and confined, and dirty to a proverb. Limerick may be classed among the best cities of Ireland ; and it is rapidly improving. The most remarkable of the ancient structures of Limeiick, with the exception of "King Jolui's Castle," is the cathedi-al, dedicated to " St. Mary;" a large and heavy-looking structure, built on the site of the palace of O'Brien, king of Limerick. Its tower is remarkably high ; and from the summit there is a magnificent prospect of the various objects of attraction in the immediate

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 40

As the companion tells it

The road takes you through Newtown Pery, a part of Limerick that did not exist until 1769, when the Right Hon. Edmond Sexton Pery began the work. Limerick itself sits in an extensive plain watered by the Shannon, about 60 Irish miles from the sea. Like all the towns of note in Ireland, it was divided into an English town and an Irish town. Newtown Pery became a third division, added during the last century. The English town stands on the King's Island, an island formed by the Shannon, which divides about half a mile above the city into two streams, the narrowest of which is named the Abbey River. There is also an extensive and populous suburb on the opposite side of the river, in the county of Clare. The more modern parts of the city are remarkably handsome, the streets wide and the houses evenly built. The ancient portions, on the contrary, are narrow and confined, and, as the book says, "dirty to a proverb." Limerick may be classed among the best cities of Ireland, and it is rapidly improving.

Glengarriff: "the rough glen" and its alpine valley

Glengarriff · townland · Cork

Glengarriff is described as a deep alpine valley enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles long and a quarter mile broad, combining wood, water, and a magnificent bay with numerous islands. The author emphasizes the profound silence, mountain torrents, and the mingling of grandeur and beauty that defies artistic and literary depiction.

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Glexgaelff — "the rough glen" — which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise that has Jjeen lavished upon it hy every traveller by whom it has been visited. It is a deep alpine valley, enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles in length, and seldom exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom, as it were, a scene of sui'passing loveliness — endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water ; for the trees are gi'aceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in character ; and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract, are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all, is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands — by one of which it is so guarded and sheltered as to receive the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice ; and the pen must be laid aside in despair ! Our memories, indeed, recall every portion of the magic spot — but only to convince us how weak and inefficient must be our efforts to describe it. AYe are again wandering through the glen — among majestic trees, fantastic rocks, and bubbling rivulets which every now and then rush by huge masses of stone, and, finding a declivity, roar along theii' rapid way, until, encountering some new obstruction, they creep awhile, and anon force a passage onwards, breaking into masses of foam — for there the mountain torrents creep or gallop to mingle with the broad Atlantic. The song of birds is either hushed or unheard ; and but for the ripple, or the roar of waters, there is no sound to distiu'b a solitude perfect and profound. We look up to the mountains ; they are of all forms, altitudes, and outlines. The most prominent among them is the Sugar-loaf, Slieve-na-goil, "the mountain of the wild people," with its conical head, soaring into the clouds ; and, to the rear, Hungiy Hill, with its naked and meagre sides, down which runs a stream from the lake upon its summit, until, gathering as it goes, it breaks in a tremendous cataract of eight hundi'ed feet, expanding as it falls, and flingiag a spray around it, that seems to cover with a thick mist a thu'd part of the hill.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 35

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Glengarriff is the rough glen — that is what the name means. It is a deep alpine valley, enclosed by precipitous hills, about 3 miles long and seldom more than a quarter of a mile broad. Black and savage rocks embosom a scene of surpassing loveliness, endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water. The trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, varied in character. The rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract are supplied from 1,000 rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands. One island guards and shelters it so that it takes on the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice, and the pen must be laid aside in despair. Memories recall every portion of the magic spot, only to show how weak our efforts must be. You wander among majestic trees, fantastic rocks, and bubbling rivulets that rush by huge masses of stone, and finding a declivity roar along their way, until encountering some new obstruction they creep awhile, then force a passage onwards, breaking into masses of foam. The mountain torrents creep or gallop to mingle with the broad Atlantic. The song of birds is hushed or unheard. But for the ripple or the roar of waters, no sound disturbs a solitude perfect and profound. The most prominent is the Sugar-loaf, Slieve-na-goil, the mountain of the wild people, with its conical head soaring into the clouds. To the rear is Hungry Hill, with its naked sides, down which runs a stream from the lake upon its summit, gathering until it breaks in a tremendous cataract of 800 feet, expanding as it falls, flinging a spray that seems to cover a third of the hill.

Lough Carha: a hidden lake for sportsmen

near Lough Carra · lake or lakes · Mayo

Lough Carha, long a terra incognita, was known chiefly to sportsmen for its irresistible temptations before improved roads and accommodation opened it to tourists. The lake runs into Castlemaine Bay via the Carha river, celebrated for winter salmon-fishing.

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of them wooded, with islands also ; and, although small, it presents to the eye scenery only less beautiful than that of the Lakes he is approaching. The traveller obtains a fine view of it as he journeys along. The vicinity of Lough Carha has long been a teiTa incognita; partly owing to the fact that its beauties were unknown to, and consequently undescribed by. Tourists — having been penetrated only by the sportsman, for whom it had, and has, temptations irresistible ; and partly in consequence of the bad roads that led to it, and the ill accommodation provided for strangers when there. These obstructions to its fame are now in a great degree removed.
The lake may be reached also by a new road from Killarney, branching off from the former about ten miles from Killarney, and leading thi'ough a ravine in the Reeks called Glouncetane, by the very beautiful lake of Coos, and through the valley of Glencar to the upper end of the lake. This road well deserves to be explored, as there are few parts of Ireland which exceed the valley of Glencar in wild and solitary beauty. The lake of Carha, taking its origin in this valley, runs into Castlemaine Bay, by the Carha river, about five miles in length, celebrated for its winter salmonfishing. The length of the lake is about seven miles, and its breadth varies fi'om two to four. It is divided into upper and lower. The lower, which is widest and least picturesque, is, however, a very fine sheet of water, and contains many objects of interest. From this point is obtained one of the best views of the Eeeks.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 105

Rabbit Island and the great flood tradition

Rabbit Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

Brown Island, also called Rabbit Island, was formerly populated by myriads of coneys (rabbits). According to tradition, a sudden flood swept them all away in a single night, leaving the island depopulated.

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issue from its half a yard of sedge.* Passing Brown or Rabbit Island — so called from the myriads of coneys that formerly peopled it, and were all disowned in a single night by a sudden flood — and leaving the river Laune a mile or so to the right, we cross the lake to visit 0' Sullivan's Waterfall. Many prefer it to that of Old Tore; it has a more solitary character ; has been evidently left more completely to selfgovemment : there is, in short, more of nature about it. Rowing southward, we pass Stag Island, then Burnt Island, and pause a minute or two to look at "Darby's Garden " — a low ledge of rocks, out of which grow a few meagre arbutus-trees. Here we are again right under Glena Mountain, floating through Glena Bay, looking once more at Glena Cottage, and listening yet again to the echoes of Glena — beautiful Glena !
"We have a choice of water- paths into the Lake — one straight before us, under Brickeen Bridge, the other round by Dinis Island, passing again through the narrow channel, which extorted a compliment from the great Magician of the North. Let us enter Tore by one way, and pass out of it by the other.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 94

As the companion tells it

Coming up is Rabbit Island, out on the lake. It is also called Brown Island, and it took its name from the myriads of coneys that once peopled it. They are all gone now. Tradition says a sudden flood disowned them all in a single night, leaving the island empty. From here the old route crosses the lake toward O'Sullivan's Waterfall. Many prefer it to Old Tore. It has a more solitary character, left more completely to self-government. There is more of nature about it. Rowing southward, the way passes Stag Island, then Burnt Island, and pauses at Darby's Garden, a low ledge of rocks out of which grow a few meagre arbutus trees. Then comes Glena Mountain, floating through Glena Bay, looking at Glena Cottage, listening to the echoes of Glena, beautiful Glena. There is a choice of water paths into the lake. One goes straight, under Brickeen Bridge. The other goes round by Dinis Island, through a narrow channel that extorted a compliment from the great Magician of the North.

Ross-Carbery, ancient see and university

Ross Carbery · town · Cork

Ross-Carbery is one of the oldest towns in Ireland, anciently called Ross-Aithrigh, meaning 'the field of pilgrimage.' According to Hanmer, a famous university once existed there, attracting scholars from the south-west of Ireland. It was formerly a bishop's see, united with Cork and Cloyne.

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The coast-road runs from Bandon almost due south to CioifAKiLTY. Although a seaport, Clonakilty carries on but small trade, and is a place of no importance. Boss- CiUBEEY demands more particular notice. It is one of the oldest towns in Ireland, the ancient name being Boss-Alithri, "the field of pilgrimage;" and, according to Hanmer, "there was here anciently a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning sake." It was formerly a bishop's see, but was united with that of Cork, and also with that of Cloyne.
Between the towns of Boss-Carbery and Skibbeeeen, and at the head of Glajstdoee harbour, the Tourist passes along a beautiful and picturesque road, where

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 20

As the companion tells it

As you come through Ross Carbery, you're passing one of the oldest towns in Ireland. Its ancient name was Ross-Aithrigh, meaning the field of pilgrimage. According to Hanmer, there was here anciently a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning sake. It was once a bishop's see, later united with Cork and also with Cloyne.

The Callan-stone and its central Ogham medial line

Callan · town · Kilkenny

The Callan-stone is noted as one of only two discovered Ogham monuments where the medial line (Fleasg) is cut on the centre of the stone rather than along the angle. This distinguishes it from the majority of Ogham-bearing monuments.

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This Cave of Dunloe must be regarded as an ancient Irish library, lately disinterred and restored to the light. The books are the large impost stones which form the roof. Their angles contain the writing. The discovery opens a new page concerning the hitherto tlisputed question touching the acquaintance of the ancient Irish with letters. The Ogham writing, as it is called, is stated to have been known and practised in Ireland long before the era of Christianity ; it is to the Irish antiquary what the Rimes are in the north, and the Arrow-headed or TFedge character is in Babylonia and Persepolis. It is more intelligible, however, than the latter, but far less known and elucidated than the former. As we have said, it has been a much disputed question amongst Irish writers ; and as, imtil a late period, it was nowhere found on monuments, there were not wanting persons disposed to treat the claims of its upholders with contempt, and to regard the character as the impostiu'e of idle bards and sennachies. The scale consists of four series of scores, each series embracing five characters, and each letter ranging from one score to five. The position of these groups in reference to a main or medial line, called Fleasg, constitutes their power. It has been called the Craov or branch Ogham, because it has been assimilated to a tree ; the fleas^g answering to the trunk or stem, and the scores at either side, or passing through it horizontally, or diagonally, to the branches. On the majority of the monuments on which it has been found, the angle is availed of to foiTH the fleasg. On the Callan-stone, and on one other hitherto discovered, the medial line is cut on the centre of the stone.
The scale originally consisted, and indeed properly does so still, of but sixteen letters. This must also be regarded as an additional proof of its high antiquity. Such was the Phenician, Pelasgic, Etruscan, and Celtiberian number. O'Halloran has given us the Ogham in its original extent.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 78

The Curragh, Kildare — principal race-ground in Ireland

near The Curragh · locality · Kildare

The Curragh, lying between Newtown and Kildare, is the principal race-ground in Ireland and Crown property of about 6,000 acres. It is a fine undulating down about six miles long and two broad, unequaled for the softness and elasticity of its evergreen turf.

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"Within a short distance of the town, between IS'ewtown and Kildare, is the farfamed Cijeeagh (through which the railway runs), the principal race-ground in Ireland. It is a fine undulating down, about six miles in length and two in breadth, and is unequalled, perhaps, in the world, for the exceeding softness and elasticity of the turf, the verdure of which is "evergreen," and tbe occasional irregularities of which are very attractive to the eye. The land is the property of the Crown, and includes about 6,000 acres, where numerous flocks of sheep find rich and abundant pasture.*
The railway next passes through a part of the far-famed Bog of Allen. The Tourist will, however, see little of it in his way. It is of immense extent, containing above 300,000 Irish acres, i.e. about 450,000 English acres.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 9

As the companion tells it

Coming up near the Curragh, between Newtown and Kildare. This is the principal race-ground in Ireland, and Crown property of about 6,000 acres. It is a fine undulating down, about six miles long and two broad. The turf is perhaps unequalled in the world for its exceeding softness and elasticity, and its verdure is "evergreen." The occasional irregularities of the ground are attractive to the eye. Numerous flocks of sheep find rich and abundant pasture here.

The River Lee as a 'noble sea avenue to Cork'

Lee · townland · Galway

The River Lee from Cork Harbour to the city is described as one of the finest approaches in Ireland, where wild and cultivated scenery are mingled. Thomas Moore called it 'the noble sea avenue to Cork,' and the river appears as a series of lakes surrounded by wooded hills with villas and ancient ruins.

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The whole distance to the city from the harbour's mouth, about twelve miles, is one continued scene of varied interest. To do full justice to the exceeding beauty of the river Lee is impossible. On either side, immediately after passing the harbour's mouth, numberless attractive objects in succession greet the eye ; and the wild and the cultivated are so happily mingled, that it would seem as if the hand of taste had been everywhere employed, skilfully, to direct and improve nature. Moore, during one of his visits, called it " the noble sea avenue to Cork ; " and an Eastern traveller, with whom we journeyed, observed that "a few minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realise the Bosphorus." As we proceed along, the land seems always around us ; the river, in its perpetual changes, appears a series of lakes, from which there is no passage except over the encompassing hills. These hills are clad, from the summit to the water's edge, with every variety of foliage; graceful villas and cottages are scattered among them in profusion, and here and there some ancient ruin recalls a story of the
past. A sail from Cork to Queenstown is one of the rarest and richest treats the island can supply, and might justify a description that would seem akin to hyperbole. Its noble harbour, indeed, originated the motto — '* statio bene fida carinis" — so aptly and deservedly applied to it. The city arms, here represented, there can be no doubt, were suggested by the arms of Bristol ; similar privileges to those enjoyed by that city having been granted to Cork by charter.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 15

Torc Waterfall surging after the storm

near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

The landlord notes the lakes are fuller than they have been in twenty years, making Torc Waterfall dash down its eighty-foot torrent with great zeal. He humorously compares the waterfall's energy to being 'got up' to please the Queen.

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splashy sound of the bare-footed peasants, who, at long intervals, slop past the windows, to the sharp clinking pattens of English dwellers in country villages ! We have heard no baying from the deep-mouthed hounds this morning, though usually they make the village ring with it — especially if either Spillane or Gandsey sounds a bugle. If the rain ceases even for a minute, thrush and blackbird burst into a loud song of joy — and Jerry Connor, most attentive of waiters, watchful of the weather, pops in to tell us, "that though it's a terrible rain intirely for the time of year — glory be to God ! — yet the glass is rising, or — going to rise." Then our landlord comes in with the information, that never was anything so magnificent as the boiling flood at the Old Weir Eridge caused by last night's storm; and that we really must di'ive to Dinis Island, and see it — no matter "the pour;" we might come to Killarney a hundred times — and never see the Old Weir in such real glory ; the foresters have been in the woods since daybreak, tearing away the branch-wracks of the hurricane ; and the torrent wreaths itself into foam — curling above the arches. Our landlord says it is worth enduring a week's confinement from rain and storm to see the Lakes fuller than they have been for twenty years ; to see the Old Weir foaming and shaking- — and to see Tore Waterfall dashing down his eighty-foot torrent — with as much zeal and energy as if he " was got up" to please the Queen ! It is therefore decided that though the rain pours as violently as ever ; that though Jerry — always ready to hope in the very teeth of despair — can only say he thinks "the glass has a mind to rise ;" still we ai-e to drive to Dinis Island in a covered car — and there get out and look at the Old Weir in his "flurry." At what hour are we to set out? Our guide, good Sir Richard, said at twelve ; but then comes the question, by which of the iwo CLOCKS are our movements to be decided ? Our landlord shook his head and smiled — he, or some one else, had regulated the clocks yesterday ; and yet — the clocks would not keep together !

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 96

Tralee assize town and O'Donoghue's representation

Tralee · town · Kerry

Tralee is the assize town of County Kerry, sending a member to parliament, at the time represented by 'The O'Donoghue,' and contains nearly 10,000 inhabitants.

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Tralee is the assize town of the county. It sends a member to parliament ; its present representative being " The O'Donoghue." It contains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. The new Roman Catholic cathedral of this town- is a remarkably beautiful structure, the interior being decorated in much better taste than usual. The remains of several ruins are in the vicinity of Tralee : among others, that of an abbey, in which for several centuries the Desmonds were buried, the first occupants of its tombs being Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed " the Great," and his son Maurice, who were both slain at Callan, in a fight with the Mac Carthy Mor. The most interesting monastic remains in Kerry are, however, those of the abbey of Ardfert — about six miles northwest of Tralee. Ardfert is a bishop's see, held in commendam with the bishopric of Limerick. The ruins of the cathedral are still in good preservation, and bear marks of high antiquity. In the western front are fom- round arches, and in the eastern front three elegant narrow-pointed windows. On the right of the altar are some niches with Saxon mouldings. A round tower, 120 feet high, and built chiefly of a dark marble, which formerly stood near the west front, suddenly fell down in 1771.
Between Tralee and Tarbert, a distance of nearly thirty miles, the road is inland, yet at no time far from the sea. There are many places of historic note which the

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 107

Ballyhack Castle and 'dirty butter'

Ballyhack · town · Wexford

The village of Ballyhack, located opposite Passage, is famous for its old castle and its historical association with 'dirty butter'. It sits near the meeting point of the Suir, Nore, and Barrow.

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Passing the village of Ballthace:, immediately opposite Passage, and famous for its old castle and " dirty butter," we come in view of the ruins of DuxBEonv Abbey, just where the Suir, the JS'ore, and the Barrow meet, in the harbour of Waterford. The abbey was founded, according to "Ware, by Hervey de Montmarisco, for Cistercian monks, in 1182. The remains are very extensive, and in a good state of preservation.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 45

Bantry Bay's natural grandeur and island-studded expanse

near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

Bantry Bay is described as perhaps unsurpassed by any harbour in the kingdom for natural beauty and advantages. The vast landlocked expanse contains several islands including Whiddy, Hog, Horse, Coney, and Chapel, framed by distant mountains including Mangerton, Hungry Hill, and the Caha range.

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^jj ITHER by the Coast road, the road throngli Drjr3i.onvAT, or the road through Gougane Barra, the Tourist arrives at BAyxEY. The far-famed "Bay" is, perhaps, unsurpassed by any harbour in the kingdom for natural beauties combined with natural advantages. As we approach it, along the dreary road from Skibbereen, a sudden turn, at the base of a rugged hill, brings us suddenly within view of the most striking objects which make up the glorious scene. Ear away, in the distant backgi'ound, ai-e dimly seen Mangcrton and the Beeks ; nearer, rise Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and a long range — the Caha Mountains ; among which, it is said, there are no fewer than three hundred and sixty-five lakes — the number having, of course, suggested a legend that some holy saint prayed effectually for one to supply water for each day of the year. Little flat and fertile islands lie at the feet of the spectator; and, nearly facing the toAvn, is Whiddt Island, with its fierce-looking fortifications, and its fields rich with the promised harvest. It is impossible to do jiistice to the exceeding grandeur and surpassing loveliness of the scene ; the whole of it is taken in by the eye at once. We are not called upon to turn from side to side for new objects -we gaze upon it all ; and he must be indeed dead to nature Avho does not drink in as delicious a cb'aught as Nature, in the fulness of her bounty, ever presented.
The road into the town — a town that has been too truly described as " a seaport without trade, a harbour without shipping, and a coast with a failing fishery " — runs immediately under the fine demesne of the Earl of Bantry — and all the way it is one continued line of beauty : we never for a moment lose sight of the distant mountains, or the foreground of green islands ; while the ear is gladdened by the mingled harmony of rippling waves, and birds that sing among the foliage of the thickly and gracefully wooded plantations.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 31

Carrauntoohil and the 'inverted sickle' name

near Carrauntoohil · mountain or mountain range · Kerry · 1812

The mountain Carran Tuel takes its name, meaning 'the inverted sickle', from the peculiar shape of its summit. When Mr. Weld visited in 1812, the ascent was considered difficult, but by the time of this writing many visitors, including ladies, managed to climb it.

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* Can-an Tuel—" the inverted sickle ; " so called from the peculiar form of its top. When Mr. Weld visited it in 1S<12, tlie labour of the ascent must have been more serious than it is now, for many ladies contrive to ascend it; nor is it indeed verj- dilficult. Tlie ponies bear them until wiiliin two miles of the top: and if the day is begun early, and a couple of hours can be given to these two miles, the feat is easily accomplished. Until Mr. Weld ascended, '• no stranger," he was told, "had ever attempted it."
t We noticed the following couplet scrawled in pencil on the wall, —

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 71

Dublin Custom-house designed by James Gandon

Dublin · city · Dublin · 1781

The Dublin Custom-house was designed and erected by James Gandon, with its foundation stone laid in 1781. It is one of the city's major public buildings.

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The Exchange may, perhaps, rank in beauty next to the Bank ; it was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779, under the immediate direction of Mr. Thomas Cooley, an architect to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. The Custom-house was designed and erected by Mr. James Gandon ; the foundation-stone having been laid in 1781. "The Four Courts" — the building which contains the several Irish courts of law — was commenced by the architect, Mr. Thomas Cooley, in 1786 ; and in consequence of his death, continued by Mr. James Gandon. It is situated on the north side of the lAWej : and is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive object, seen

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 6

Englishtown on King's Island

King's Island · townland · Limerick

The English town of Limerick stands on King's Island, formed by the Shannon dividing into two streams about half a mile above the city. The narrowest channel is named the Abbey River.

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The city of Limerick, situated in an extensive plain watered by the mighty Shannon, about sixty Irish miles from the sea, is divided, like all the towns of note in Ireland, into English town and Irish town ; but a third division, called Xewtown Pery, was added to it during the last century — the work being commenced in 1769, by the Right Hon. Edmond Sexton Pery. The English town stands on "the King's Island," an island formed by the Shannon, which divides, about half a mile above the city, into two streams ; the narrowest of which is named the Abbey lliver. There is also an extensive and populous suburb on the opposite side of the river, in the county of Clare. The more modern parts are remarkably handsome, the streets being wide and the houses evenly built : the ancient portions, on the contrary, are narrow and confined, and dirty to a proverb. Limerick may be classed among the best cities of Ireland ; and it is rapidly improving. The most remarkable of the ancient structures of Limeiick, with the exception of "King Jolui's Castle," is the cathedi-al, dedicated to " St. Mary;" a large and heavy-looking structure, built on the site of the palace of O'Brien, king of Limerick. Its tower is remarkably high ; and from the summit there is a magnificent prospect of the various objects of attraction in the immediate

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 40

Glena darkening the water in O'Donoghue's pig legend

Glena · townland · Kerry

In the pig legend, when the pig-driver pulls O'Donoghue's foot under the golden quilt, the entire leg comes away in his hand. The narrator likens the certainty of this to Glena darkening the water, referencing the wooded mountain of Glena casting its shadow over the lake.

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"A green growing rush, rooted under the wathiu- — quite natural -like, waying, with its little tuft of brown bud at the top. — There war his beautiful pigs — his broad bacon turned into green rushes ! First of all, he set up an ullagawn that would shake the Reeks ; and then he turned back fairly and softly towards Killarney to get his money back from the O'Donoghue. When he reached the castle, he knocked at the hall door wid the Dane's hammer that hung there ; and_ out comes the lady. ' And what do ye want, my good man ? ' she says ; so he explained to her. ' Then,' she says, 'you must go up to the Prince's bedside and shake him up,' she says, ' for he is asleep ; and if you find that won't do, pull him by the foot.' He did as she bid him ; but son-a a wake he'd wake. So lifting up the golden quilt that covered the bed, he pulled his foot ; and if he did, as sure as Glena is darkening the wathur, foot, ankle, leg, and thigh came away in his hand. Oh ! how he blessed O'Donoghue and his pigs — the wrong way — as he stood holding the limb, and the Prince sleeping as sweet and as quiet as if the May breezes were playing round his head. So he tucks the leg under the tail of his coat : and though he was trembling from head to foot, he walks past the lady as howU as a ram, and says, ' Thank yer honor, — I've finished my business.' He flew ofi" like the wind, and the leg slipped from under his arm ; and as sure as it did, it took to running before him ! Whichever way he ran, it was before him. More than once he raised his hand to make the blessed sign, hut he had no jmwer. And sure his condition was not bettered when looking back, he saw O'Donoghue hot foot after him. 'Stop,' he cries, 'ye beggarly pig-driver. What ails ye, that ye can't stop when a gentleman tells ye? Give me my leg, he says; and I think it a very unmannerly thing of ye, and a proof of yer ill-breeding, to come to a gentleman's house, and to stale the leg off his body without his lave, and he asleep. Give me my beautiful leg,' says he, coming up to him. ' Plaze yer honorable honor's glory for ever ! ' says the fellow, stopping. ' Sure, it run away, sir— it's on before, sir.' ' Where?' thundered out the Prince; and every echo from the Eagle's Nest to the Gap of Dunloe shouted ' Where ? ' ' There,' answered the nagur. ' Oh ! oh ! ' — and the O'Donoghue laughed — the leg was in its own place. ' And there,' said the Prince, throwing a purse towards him. ' My pigs are at home, and there's yer money. I only wanted my turn out of the Saxon's goold.' "

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

Glencar valley route through the Reeks

near Glencar · population centre · Kerry

A new road from Killarney leads through a ravine in the Reeks called Glouncetane, past the lake of Coos and through the valley of Glencar to the upper end of Lough Carha. The valley of Glencar is noted for its wild and solitary beauty.

Read the passage

The lake may be reached also by a new road from Killarney, branching off from the former about ten miles from Killarney, and leading thi'ough a ravine in the Reeks called Glouncetane, by the very beautiful lake of Coos, and through the valley of Glencar to the upper end of the lake. This road well deserves to be explored, as there are few parts of Ireland which exceed the valley of Glencar in wild and solitary beauty. The lake of Carha, taking its origin in this valley, runs into Castlemaine Bay, by the Carha river, about five miles in length, celebrated for its winter salmonfishing. The length of the lake is about seven miles, and its breadth varies fi'om two to four. It is divided into upper and lower. The lower, which is widest and least picturesque, is, however, a very fine sheet of water, and contains many objects of interest. From this point is obtained one of the best views of the Eeeks.
After journeying about five miles, all the way with Castlemaine Harbour in sight, the Tourist an-ives at Ejlloeglix — a market town of no great importance, but exhibiting signs of great misery intermixed with prosperous commerce. Here will commence the journey of those who are proceeding to Tralee or Dingle; and here another public car conveys passengers into the district further to the west. Hence into Killarney there is a good road, which, skirting the river Laune, and passing underneath the Eeeks, leaves to the right the pathway to CaiTan Tuel, and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe, and conducts into the town of Killarney.*

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 105

Kenmare's natural advantages but lack of trade

Kenmare · townland · Kerry

Kenmare possesses a large, safe bay with a good quay, a suspension bridge over the river, and abundant fish in sea, rivers, and lakes. Despite all these natural advantages and its convenient situation, the town has no trade and no prospect of developing its resources through fisheries, mines, or manufactures.

Read the passage

There are, perhaps, few towns in Ireland which possess so many capabilities as Kenmake : the Bay is among the largest, safest, and best ; there is a good quay ; the river is crossed by a pretty suspension bridge — numerous streams run into it; its situation, as regards England, is convenient ; the sea, and rivers, and lakes are stored with fish ; it is on the high road from two populous and much frequented districts. In fact, ]S"ature has abundantly enriched Kenmare with all that can furnish wealth and increase prosperity. Yet it has no trade, nor the semblance of any; neither does there seem to be a prospect of turuing its vast natural advantages to account, either by fisheries, mines, or manufactures. Yet there is ample evidence of

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 99

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here is Kenmare, a place Nature seems to have blessed with everything. The bay is among the largest and safest in Ireland, with a good quay, and a pretty suspension bridge crosses the river. The sea, rivers, and lakes are all full of fish, and the situation is convenient as regards England, on the high road between two populous districts. Yet for all that, the town has no trade, nor the semblance of any. There seems no prospect of turning any of it to account, not through fisheries, mines, or manufactures.

Wild scenery on descent toward Kenmare Harbour

Kenmare · townland · Kerry

The road from the Kerry entrance offers a gradual descent toward Kenmare Harbour with views of scattered white cottages, picturesque limekilns, and wild grandeur extending for miles. The prospect contrasts barren precipices with the cultivated glens left behind.

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Cork and Kerry. The entrance to the county of Kerry (" the kingdom of Kerry," as it was anciently called), from that of Cork, is through a tunnel of about two hundred yards in length ; a very short distance from which there are two others of much more limited extent. They have been cut through rocks, peaks to the Esk mountain. As the traveller emerges from comparative darkness, a scene of striking magnificence bursts upon him, very opposite in character from that which he leaves immediately behind ; for while his eye retains the rich and cultivated beauty of the wooded and watered " glen," he is startled by the contrast of barren and frightful precipices along the brinks of which he is driving, and gazes with a shudder down into the fai'-off valley, where a broad and angry stream is diminished by distance into a m(>re line of white. Nothing can exceed the wild grandem- of the prospect ; it extends miles upon miles : scattered through the vale and among the hill slopes are many cottages, white always, and generally slated ; while to several of them are attached the picturesque limekilns so numerous in all parts of the country. The road, of which there is a view almost the whole way to Kcnmare Harbour, is a gradual descent, and has been so admirably constructed, and is kept so carefully in repair, that it is smooth and finished enough to be the entiy to a demesne, and is classed by universal consent among the best roads of the kingdom ; such was not always the case ; at one period it was proverbial for the poverty of the land and the wretchedness of its inhabitants. The misery of the soil has been illustrated by a saying, that " a Kerry cow never looks up at a passing stranger, for fear it would lose the hite ;'''' and it was asserted that, long ago, at stated seasons, the agents of the lord of the land stationed themselves at the old entrance into the county to meet the beggars as they were returning homewards from Cork to Kerry, and received the rents of their cabins by taking from them the half-pence they had collected.

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 38

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Kenmare, the road makes a gradual descent toward the harbour, and the scenery turns wild. As you come through the tunnel cut through the rocks of the Esk mountain, a scene of striking magnificence opens up. The eye still holds the rich cultivated beauty of the wooded glens left behind, but now barren precipices line the road, and far below in the valley a broad stream is reduced by distance to a thin white line. The prospect extends miles upon miles. Scattered through the vale and along the hill slopes are many cottages, white and generally slated, with picturesque limekilns attached to several of them. The road itself is admirably constructed and kept in repair, smooth enough to be the entrance to a demesne, and ranked among the best roads in the kingdom. It was not always so. At one period this country was proverbial for the poverty of the land and the wretchedness of its people. A saying went that "a Kerry cow never looks up at a passing stranger, for fear it would lose the bit." Long ago, agents of the lord of the land stationed themselves at the old entrance into the county to meet beggars returning from Cork to Kerry, and took from them the halfpence they had collected as the rents of their cabins.

A cry loud enough to shake the Reeks

Macgillycuddy's Reeks · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

In the pig legend, when the pig-driver discovers that O'Donoghue's sold pigs have turned into green rushes at a river ford, he lets out a wail ('ullagawn') so loud it is said it 'would shake the Reeks,' referencing the Macgillycuddy's Reeks as the dominant mountain range of the Killarney region.

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"A green growing rush, rooted under the wathiu- — quite natural -like, waying, with its little tuft of brown bud at the top. — There war his beautiful pigs — his broad bacon turned into green rushes ! First of all, he set up an ullagawn that would shake the Reeks ; and then he turned back fairly and softly towards Killarney to get his money back from the O'Donoghue. When he reached the castle, he knocked at the hall door wid the Dane's hammer that hung there ; and_ out comes the lady. ' And what do ye want, my good man ? ' she says ; so he explained to her. ' Then,' she says, 'you must go up to the Prince's bedside and shake him up,' she says, ' for he is asleep ; and if you find that won't do, pull him by the foot.' He did as she bid him ; but son-a a wake he'd wake. So lifting up the golden quilt that covered the bed, he pulled his foot ; and if he did, as sure as Glena is darkening the wathur, foot, ankle, leg, and thigh came away in his hand. Oh ! how he blessed O'Donoghue and his pigs — the wrong way — as he stood holding the limb, and the Prince sleeping as sweet and as quiet as if the May breezes were playing round his head. So he tucks the leg under the tail of his coat : and though he was trembling from head to foot, he walks past the lady as howU as a ram, and says, ' Thank yer honor, — I've finished my business.' He flew ofi" like the wind, and the leg slipped from under his arm ; and as sure as it did, it took to running before him ! Whichever way he ran, it was before him. More than once he raised his hand to make the blessed sign, hut he had no jmwer. And sure his condition was not bettered when looking back, he saw O'Donoghue hot foot after him. 'Stop,' he cries, 'ye beggarly pig-driver. What ails ye, that ye can't stop when a gentleman tells ye? Give me my leg, he says; and I think it a very unmannerly thing of ye, and a proof of yer ill-breeding, to come to a gentleman's house, and to stale the leg off his body without his lave, and he asleep. Give me my beautiful leg,' says he, coming up to him. ' Plaze yer honorable honor's glory for ever ! ' says the fellow, stopping. ' Sure, it run away, sir— it's on before, sir.' ' Where?' thundered out the Prince; and every echo from the Eagle's Nest to the Gap of Dunloe shouted ' Where ? ' ' There,' answered the nagur. ' Oh ! oh ! ' — and the O'Donoghue laughed — the leg was in its own place. ' And there,' said the Prince, throwing a purse towards him. ' My pigs are at home, and there's yer money. I only wanted my turn out of the Saxon's goold.' "

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 90

Cahirciveen, trade centre of the district

Cahersiveen · town · Kerry

Cahirciveen is the main town of the district, commanding trade within a circuit of nearly forty miles. Despite its advantages, it remained a dull town little improved over thirty years, conveying no idea of activity or prosperity.

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We continue our route, and at the end of a few miles come in. sight of Cahirciveen : this is the town of the district, commanding the whole trade of the country within a circuit of nearly forty miles, north, south, and east ; while to the west is the Isla^^d OF Valencia. Yet Cahirciveen is little better than it was thirty years ago — a dull town, that conveys no idea of either activity or prosperity, although its advantages are large and many. It has one object that may interest the Tourist. A mile or so distant is a ruined house, overgrown with ivy, pleasantly situate in a wooded dell beside a river. It is the birthplace of Daniel O'Connell ; and the remains of the room in which he was born are still shown to the curious or patriotic visitor."^'
Before we reach Cahirciveen, proceeding from AVaterville, we turn off to the Ferry — less than a quarter of a mile in length — by which we cross to reach the renowned island of Valencia. Valencia is the property of Fitzgerald, the Knight of Kerry. He is an excellent, considerate, and enterprising landlord ; and if there be, here and there, in his "dominions" evidence of miseiy, or, at all events, of indifference to decency and comfort, the evil arises from circumstances he can, as yet, neither change nor control. The Knight resides at Glanleam, a charming wooded demesne at the north-east shore of the island, and finds ample occupation in striving to make contented, happy, and comparatively prosperous, the isolated, simple, and interesting people, numbering about two thousand, whom Providence has placed under his rule. It is not too much to say that the heroic qualities of this branch of the Geraldines have remained with their descendants.!

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 103

Cascade of Derrycunihy and Hyde's Cottage

Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

A waterfall formed by a river on its way into the Upper Lake, reached by a quarter-mile by-road. A rustic bridge crosses to a cultivated garden where Hyde's Cottage formerly stood; Lord Castlerosse replaced the old cottage with a new one for travellers, and the garden remains with remarkably large rhododendrons.

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the twisting channel — "the Long Eange " — that connects it with its sister kkes ; numbers of small islets are scattered about its surface ; •>' and in the far-oif glimpse of a broad sheet of water — the Lower Lake — we obtain the foretaste of a banquet — abundant, healthful, and delicious. Bat if the Upper Lake — considered as a Lake, merely — is calculated, as we think it is, to disappoint at fii'st, it is grand beyond conception, and certainly far suipasses its more beautiful sisters in the wild maguificence and stern sublimity of j!^ature. From the point we are describing, this peculiar characteristic is not perhaps so striking as it will be when we descend more into the valley. And let us descend : — presently we reach " the Constabulary Barrack," from a spot adjacent to which there is another glorious view. It is called "The Vikw E.0CK." The eye stretches along over the several islands — the Lake Hotel bounding the distance, behind which is a range of hills. We have been watching, from the height, the road that runs past it, and have marvelled how it can convey us down tlie steep : tracing it closely, however, we perceive that it travels round two or three jutting rocks, covered with the richest foliage ; a peep at it may be had every now and then ; at length it is seen, deeply below, skirting the borders of the Lough. AVe shall reach it anon, and he on level ground ; but not until we have made at least a score of pauses, sprung as olten off and on the car, and mounted some tiny hillock to feast upon the prospect once again. We reach the Tunnel at length ; we pass through it, and the mountain is at our back. We shall have to climb no other while the day lasts. Here we are in the centre of Beauty's attractions only ; the road is overhung by huge rocks ; but each of them is richly clothed — some with huge forest trees, others with the lighter and gayer arbutus ; while, at the bases of all, spring up gigantic weeds in marvellous luxuriance, fed perpetually by the clear water that oozes through every crevice, forming here and there miniature cataracts, bearing down tiny pebbles to deposit by the road side. So, on we go — now and then peeping, tluough breaks in the foliage, at the bleak hills opposite, and occasionally crossing a bridge, under which pushes a rapid river. One of them, on its way into the lake, forms the Cascade of Dereicui^nihy ; and this the Tourist must delay to visit. A by-road of about a quarter of a mile leads to it. We soon hear its roar, and ere long mark its foam ascending above the trees. It is beautiful — very beautiful — and its beauty is enhanced by the charming character of the locality in which it is placed. A little rustic bridge crosses the narrow river, and leads to a cultivated garden, where a cottage — Hyde's Cottage — formerly stood. The old cottage is gone, but the liberality of Lord Castlerosse has given to travellers another in its place, where they may "rest and be thankful ;" but the garden remains ; and never have we seen shrubs of finer growth. The rhododendrons have mounted almost into forest trees, and were literally covered with giant blossoms. A tangled path, overshadowed by the arbutus, holly, yew and hazel, leads to the cascade. It is inferior to that of Tore, which we are now approaching ; and we leave it, therefore, undescribed.f

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 62

Cashel city: wide streets amid wretched lanes

Cashel · town · Tipperary

Cashel holds the rank of a city but has a time-worn aspect, far less picturesque than the ruins on the rock above. Its principal street is wide and well built, but the lanes, alleys, and suburbs are mean and wretched.

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the ruins on the " rock," while infinitely less picturesque. The principal street is wide, and well built ; but the lanes and alleys that branch from it, and the suburbs, are mean and wretched.
Let the reader then imagine the beautiful pile of sacred edifices crowning the entire summit of a huge limestone rock, completely isolated and occasionally precipitous, standing in the midst of a luxuriant country, " the Golden Vale," and commanding an extensive prospect — bounded on one side by the lofty range of the Galtee mountains, but permitting, upon all other sides, the eye to wander over miles

Internet Archive weekatkillarneyw00hall, Chapter 10

A week at Killarney : with descriptions of the routes thither from Dublin, Cork, &c.

The stories, best first

Smugglers' caves and illicit stills in the Pass

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin

Kilcrea Friary and Castle built by Cormac of Muskerry

Limerick Castle's six centuries of conflict

Mount Gabriel lake legend

Stone cell and chapel on island in Valencia Harbour

Abbey Island ruined chapel and pilgrimage site

Bantry town described as a failing seaport

Carrick-on-Suir town and castle

Carrigrohane Castle on the cliff

Chain of Geraldine towers from the Shannon to Kilmallock

Children's burial grounds at Lough Hyne

Cork Harbour motto 'statio bene fida carinis'

Cork Harbour: secure, capacious, and beautiful

Dalkey Island rising from Dublin Bay

Finn Mac Cool's gold under Muckross

French forces twice entered Bantry Bay for invasion of Ireland

Hill of Howth and its beacons, abbey, and harbour

Ludlow's naval assault on Ross Castle

O'Donoghue's Horse rock on the Lower Lake

Sir Richard Courtenay buried in Muckross mid-aisle

Staigue Fort: ancient circular stone ruin

Waterford's imposing view from the landing square

Dunmore pier and lighthouse works

Killorglin: a market town of mixed fortune

O'Sullivans and O'Learys sheltering in the Pass

Road to Blarney through Sunday's Well

The Serpent's Lake in the Gap of Dunloe

Aghadoe round tower details and spoilage

Blarney village and its famous stone

Caha Mountains and legend of 365 lakes

Dublin Society at Kildare House

Mount Gabriel's lough and its serpent demon

Skellig monastic cells and ancient abbey

The Leap, ancient boundary near Glandore

Ancient origin of Clonmel and the Tuatha-de-danaans

Ardfert cathedral and round tower ruins

Founding of Newtown Pery, 1769

Glengarriff: "the rough glen" and its alpine valley

Lough Carha: a hidden lake for sportsmen

Rabbit Island and the great flood tradition

Ross-Carbery, ancient see and university

The Callan-stone and its central Ogham medial line

The Curragh, Kildare — principal race-ground in Ireland

The River Lee as a 'noble sea avenue to Cork'

Torc Waterfall surging after the storm

Tralee assize town and O'Donoghue's representation

Ballyhack Castle and 'dirty butter'

Bantry Bay's natural grandeur and island-studded expanse

Carrauntoohil and the 'inverted sickle' name

Dublin Custom-house designed by James Gandon

Englishtown on King's Island

Glena darkening the water in O'Donoghue's pig legend

Glencar valley route through the Reeks

Kenmare's natural advantages but lack of trade

Wild scenery on descent toward Kenmare Harbour

A cry loud enough to shake the Reeks

Cahirciveen, trade centre of the district

Cascade of Derrycunihy and Hyde's Cottage

Cashel city: wide streets amid wretched lanes